Dyno Glide - Bixby - Cruiser Cafe Racer Builds

RWP

1 kW
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
463
Location
SoCal, USA
The new eBike/Cafe Racer project is moving forward and I am excited about this new build.

Bicycle: Dyno Glide cruiser
Motor: Transmagnetics 532
Controller: 40A/50A or 80A/100A (race bike)
Cycle Analyst: 2 or 3
Primary Drive: 8mm pitch timing belt
Final Drive: BMX single speed bicycle chain
Bicycle drive on right side - single speed
Motor drive on left side
26" Front wheel
24" Rear wheel
Pedals (not in sketch)

A friend is CNC machining the motor and bearing plates to mount my TransMag 532 brushless permanent magnet motor. I have to make the clamps, to mount the motor/bearing plates to the frame, in the next week or so. Then I will be able to mount the motor onto the frame and start on the final design for the 'body work' and seat, and the final drive.

While I am assembling all the bits and pieces I think it will be a few months before it will be completed.

Batteries I am considering:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=134
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=124

Controller I am considering:
http://ebikes.ca/store/store_controllers.php
I like this controller because it will auto sense my hall configuration...but it does not allow changing any settings - which concerns me. I can get a controller from cell-man or Lyen or go with a Kelly...

532-DynoGlide.jpg
Template-on-7075.jpg
MotorPlate-7075.jpg
MotorPlate2-7075.jpg
The drive unit is designed to slide up and down the seat tube and down tube - to allow for different bike frames and so I can position the final drive sprocket on the jack shaft up or down as needed. The slots allow me to rotate the motor/bearing plates to accommodate the frame and final drive.

3D Modeling Sketches of drive unit:

TransMag-532_11 Sep. 19 17.43.jpg
TransMag-532_15 Sep. 19 17.48.jpg
TransMag-532_12 Sep. 19 17.44.jpg
TransMag-532r_13 Sep. 19 17.45.jpg
View attachment 2
 
Subscribed!
Looks like a cool build. I just started my TransMagnetics build recently and was hoping to see more of them around here. I came up with a similar plan to yours where the first reduction stage ends right behind the bottom bracket area. I picked up a Lyen 12 fet controller with beefed up traces so I can flirt with 80-100Amps as well. I'm gearing for 45-50mph at 72v. From the comments and graphs on this motor I get the impression 72v and 5kw is about the reasonable limit to expect. I wish I had your 3D modeling skills. I have lots of CNC machines but I do my mockups and brainstorming like this:

 
DanGT86 said:
Subscribed! Looks like a cool build.
Thanks Dan. Looks like you have a cool project going yourself!

I am also thinking about going to 72v at about 80A...it would be a screamer.
Any idea about how to mod suspension forks for dual disks?

I chose the Dyno frame because of the relatively large distance between the rear tire and the seat tube (and thus long wheel base) allowing me to put the jack shaft behind the seat tube...also the Dyno frame has horizontal drop outs and, at least I think, a sensual look because of the curved seat and chain stays.

I was also able to get a 1-1/8" fork set to fit the Dyno frame by grinding out the inside face of the 1" bottom bearing race to clear the tapered lower part of the steerer tube shaft and by using 1/8" loose ball bearings. It was an easy and slick mod.

I will tell you that my 3D skills were hard won. While my computer skills are pretty good learning 3D modeling took quite a bit of real effort. Miles recommended Alibre, not sure if he would today because of the change in ownership, and while it does not have all the bells and whistles of SolidWorks, the version I have does not do frames very well, I find it very useful. Alibre used to sell a $150 version that I thought at the time was a steal. But since the new ownership I have not seen this on the website. None of the free 3D software comes close in my opinion to Alibre.
 
Only dual disk front fork I remember seeing is from the greyborg site.

http://greyborgusa.com/dnm-dual-disc-brake-fork/

May be possible to make a caliper bracket that clamps on the shock tube and also catches the axle bolt. Basically a torque arm but with a brake caliper hanging off of it.

Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of the fork mod on that frame.

Thanks for the heads up on the 3D software.
 
RWP said:
Miles recommended Alibre, not sure if he would today because of the change in ownership......
The jury is still out..... Let's see what the first update from 3D Systems is like.....

Looking forward to following your build.
 
DanGT86 said:
Only dual disk front fork I remember seeing is from the greyborg site.

http://greyborgusa.com/dnm-dual-disc-brake-fork/

May be possible to make a caliper bracket that clamps on the shock tube and also catches the axle bolt. Basically a torque arm but with a brake caliper hanging off of it.

Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of the fork mod on that frame.

Thanks for the heads up on the 3D software.

Same fork im using on my trail bike build. Very easy kit to fit for dual disc and theyre a nice fork with the new colours
0699fc1b5097f5f2e24552c93351ecee_zps4676c396.jpg
 
Looks like its coming along nicely. Are you concerned about only mounting to one face of the motor? I am a little paranoid about mine torqueing or spinning the can on the endplates if only mounted on one side.

I like that your mount doesn't risk running a bolt into the internal fan like a typical face mount would. How thick is that aluminum plate. Does it cover the fan vent holes?
 
DanGT86 said:
Looks like its coming along nicely. Are you concerned about only mounting to one face of the motor? I am a little paranoid about mine torqueing or spinning the can on the endplates if only mounted on one side.
I like that your mount doesn't risk running a bolt into the internal fan like a typical face mount would. How thick is that aluminum plate. Does it cover the fan vent holes?
The motor is designed to be mounted via the face plate and I have no concerns about using this system.

The aluminum motor plate is 3/8" thick.

The 3D pics show the motor mounted on the outside of the motor plate, outside meaning further from the bike center line. In the final configuration the motor is mounted on the inboard side of the motor plate - thus the vent holes are not covered.
 
About time someone else decided to utilize this motor.

Anxious to see your results :)
 
neptronix said:
About time someone else decided to utilize this motor...Anxious to see your results :)
Hope to please...

Perhaps over the top...OK...I have another 532 coming and just acquired a Felt Bixby for the second bike. Looks like this will be a 2 bike build! I thought the Bixby had a larger triangle but not so, they are much the same size.

The motor plates will be completed next week and I have to get going on making the tube clamps to mount the motors to the frames. The seat tubes are different sizes (Dyno and Bixby) so the seat tube clamps will have slightly different bores but otherwise the seat tube clamps will be the same. The down tubes are the same size so these are the same as well.

Here is a mock up of my proposed rear hub:
View attachment 1Dyno-Rear-Hub2.jpg
Any suggestions about what hub I might consider are welcome.

The right side is a freewheel for the human power. On the left is one of Matt's sprocket adapters and a brake disc.
Once I get the motors attached I will have a better sense about chain lines and whether I have enough room between the drop outs to make the left side work well. I can bend the frame to spread the drop outs a bit if necessary. I will need to make a spacer to get the final drive sprocket away from the spokes and perhaps another spacer to get the disc brake caliper to clear the sprocket. I may need more than a quarter inch of spacers and have just over a quarter inch before I have to alter the Bixby frame. Haven't tried it on the Dyno yet.
 
Any ideas about an appropriate controller for these bikes?

Thinking about Lyen and/or ebikes.ca controllers, or maybe even a Kelly.

Also thinking one of the bikes will be a race bike (50mph+) and the other a well performing road motorbike (40mph +/-) (maybe even with lights, horn and all the stuff to make it street legal).

My question is what kind of amps should I be looking for for each of the above? Suggestions or comments please.
 
infineon / infineon-like controllers will do just fine.

Go with an 18FET if you want to run stock power levels, or 24FET if you want to saturate the piss out of it.

If you get a cell_man infineon controller, i have a wiring diagram for you if you need it.
 
Your feedback is invited!
The down tube clamp looks square...I will be mounting a plate for the controller on this clamp which should integrate the clamp so it will not look out of place.

Next is putting the rear wheel together once the rim and spokes come later this week or early next.

In the mean time I will make another seat tube clamp for the Bixby and machine the pulleys to reduce them from 30mm to 20mm and take off a lot of weight.

Your thoughts and observations please.

A few more pics:
Dyno-front.jpgDyno-other-front.jpgView attachment 4Dyno-Left.jpgDyno-Drive-Assembly.jpgDyno-Drive-Assembly2.jpgDyno-Drive-Assembly3.jpg
 
This is an awesome build! The left-side drive makes it a "one-speed" motor-drive, but LFP proved that if you have enough motor mass and watts, one speed is all you need. However, LFPs motor and controller on the death-bike were not plug and play, and really too big for a street bicycle. It qualified as a motorcycle with pedals, since it could have been geared for 50-MPH if he wanted.

This motor with an 12-FET/18-FET is the biggest non-hub that I would ever consider using on a bicycle with pedals in the real world. The Cromotor is nice if you want to go 50-MPH and don't mind the motor weight in the rear wheel. If I had to blend in with car traffic at 35-MPH on a stretch of road during part of my commute, this is the killer set-up for me.

Mid-drive = fewer broken spokes and better balance.
 
I'm assuming that the jackshaft isn't going to stick that far out once you're done, right? Otherwise I'd be worried about hitting my heels off of it.

Where are you planning on putting the batteries?

Other than that, this looks like a great build.
 
CdnE90 said:
I'm assuming that the jackshaft isn't going to stick that far out once you're done, right? Otherwise I'd be worried about hitting my heels off of it.
Where are you planning on putting the batteries?
Other than that, this looks like a great build.
Thanks CdnE90.
Jackshaft to be only as long as necessary...and I want to find a way to cover it up :)
My current thinking is the batteries will be under the smaller top tubes and above and wrapped around, but not directly in contact with, the motor. Also working on a way to hide the batteries with the same integrated fiberglass fairing/body work that may cover the jack shaft.
 
I'll chime in too Roy,
Another really clean bike!
All the tidbits you fab just look right at home.
Looking forward to your review of the motor/drive system once its been tested out for a few charge cycles.

Thanks for taking the time to document your work & letting us follow along.
T
 
CdnE90 said:
I'm assuming that the jackshaft isn't going to stick that far out once you're done, right? Otherwise I'd be worried about hitting my heels off of it.

I'm sure that will be trimmed flush with freewheel adapter

CdnE90 said:
where are you planning on putting the batteries?.

like to know also...Not allot of room left in the triangle, back pack of Lipo maybe?

nice sleek fairing to cover the motor, with a hole for it to peek out would look trick...

Looks like you have it heading in the right direction anyways
she will go like a shower of shit imo..should handle beautifully to with weight
evenly distributed and the laid back head angle...

KiM
 
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