Full Suspension Rear Rack Modded

Ok i have finally bit the bullet and purchased all my parts for my build.

I do have a few questions that i know have already been aswered on this forum but they are very hard to find at times.

1st of all are my parts purchased

1 Specialized Bighit DS DH bike

Rear Crystalyte H4040

5 speed cluster

Grin Tech 7240 controller

Cycle Analyst V3

Magura Throttle

3 speed switch

Sunrim DH Double track rim 24" x 39mm wide

13G Sapim Spokes from Holmes Hobbies

3 rear 24 x 2.5 Maxxis Hookworm Tyres, 26 x 2.5 Maxxis Hookworm front tyre

203mm rear disk upgrade from 160mm, Uberbike Sintered Compound Brake pads front & rear

Cellman 21s5p Samsung 20R Battery Pack & Charger around 9.75Amps, Not big but enough for my needs atm.

My Concern is the Magura Throttle, From what i underrstand i can wire it straight into the Cycle Analyst and adjust the voltage through the CAV3, Can anyone tell me if this is a correct way to do it and if not any links regarding a Magura throttle being connected to a CAV3 would really help me out please.

My other concern at this point is my battery connection to the controller, i have been told i dont need to run a inline fuse between the battery and the controller but this doesnt seen right to me becasue if there is any kind of fault with the battery or wires running to the controller it could blow the controller up or cause internal damage.
Can i have peoples thoughts on this also please and any links showing the type of fuses or breakers used would be appreciated.

I am currently desgining some dropout torque plates copied from Rodgah's Build with a few modifications and the battery is currently being shipped by FedEx from Cellman.

Can't help you with the throttle as I don't have that type and I have as yet never hooked my CA up. But, I have a fuse and believe most have a fuse to stop excessive damage, serious smoke and flames from happening. I have only blown 2 fuses in 10K miles of riding. No damage occurred other than the fuse. First photo shows automotive type bladed fuse, in the red holder stuck to the switch, 32V unit and for me 30A werqs and only blows when I am badly misbehaving up a hill. It did not blow on my 40MPH level ground speed run tests so is the perfect size for my rig. You may want a switch for your batts as well. Pic 2 is what I have used for the 10K at 66V and without any other precautions. Many auto parts stores have them for 10-$15 Although higher voltages may require some sort of protection to prolong the life of the switch and or battery connectors. Use good wire and connectors 3.5 - 4.5 mm bullets, 45A Andersons, Deans and a couple of others someone will likely mention. Cheaping out on the wire and connectors will only cause problems later. Looks like you have a good bunch of parts at your disposal. Good to see you doing it right. Good luck on your build. Safety first always on your build and it's even a good thought to have while you are riding now and then. ;^) OOPS did I ferget to mention some kind of brake actuated motor cutoff switch? Should be a mandatory safety item. I screwed up and went for a test ride before I installed mine. Something I really do not want to repeat.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9673
http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/ptfe-high-temperature-stranded-wire.html
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/

Thanks Biohazard for that,
I hadnt forgotten about the cut off brake or switch but did forget to mention im looking at one of the Tektro Dorado Hydro brakes from http://longislandelectricbikes.com/tektro-en/tektro-dorado-e-bike-brake-hd-e710 for $100 but to be honest i was going to try the bike out 1st without it as my controller is in easy reach and has an off switch on it and im looking into some sort of way to mount a battery cut off switch also but thats for mainly when i lock it up and leave it if i ever do.

As for the Fuse , ill be running a 40Amp controller and im not totally sure what sort of fuse to get for it as it could peak higher than 40A im figuring from what i have read on this site. I was going to start with a 60Amp slow burn fuse and get a 80 Amp as a spare to see how that will go.

Does anyone know what real figures i should expect to see when i 1st take off in the way of Amps being drawn from the battery.

My Cellman Battery Arrived today, This is a 21s5p Battery putting out 88.2V fully charged.

The Qualitly of finish on this battery has amazed me and very professionally built.

That's a really nice setup!

A few Photos of my Battery Being built

TotalConfusion said:

Thanks Biohazard for that,
I hadnt forgotten about the cut off brake or switch but did forget to mention im looking at one of the Tektro Dorado Hydro brakes from http://longislandelectricbikes.com/tektro-en/tektro-dorado-e-bike-brake-hd-e710 for $100 but to be honest i was going to try the bike out 1st without it as my controller is in easy reach and has an off switch on it and im looking into some sort of way to mount a battery cut off switch also but thats for mainly when i lock it up and leave it if i ever do.

As for the Fuse , ill be running a 40Amp controller and im not totally sure what sort of fuse to get for it as it could peak higher than 40A im figuring from what i have read on this site. I was going to start with a 60Amp slow burn fuse and get a 80 Amp as a spare to see how that will go.

Does anyone know what real figures i should expect to see when i 1st take off in the way of Amps being drawn from the battery.

Click to expand...

I just used an automotive blade type fuse. It is rated for 32V 30A and after putting 10K miles on the bike I have only blown it twice as stated because I did not help by pedaling when going up a hill so it's perfect for my use. Running an Infineon 12 fet 45A controller @66-72V with settings of 30-40 batt amps and 50-80 phase amps as well as 250lbs gross weight on the bike. Many if not most fuses will sustain somewhat higher than rated currents for awhile without failing the reason for my my gradually melting fuse holder. A better quality holder has alleviated that problem for me. Your actual amperage when starting from a stop will depend on your decision to pedal and help as well as your throttle application and controller settings so it is difficult to say. Carry an extra and if you blow it to often go to a slightly higher amp unit. I am not a fan of the slow-blow fuse as I werqed as a mechanic on transit busses for many years and saw them fail intermittently, to many times

I have hydraulic brakes I got off of craigslist but never installed them as my stock mechanical calipers with upgraded 203mm rotors ,looks like yours are there as well, have put me up on the front wheel only more than once avoiding idiot drivers. I have heard that some like the hydraulics because of the very light pull on the lever they require. Like you said I would try it out as is first to see if you really want them. Don't forget that the quality of your cables and levers does make a difference in how well mechanical disks werq.

Yup, he did a nice job on that battery and your doing a nice job on the bike Good luck on your build.

Thanks Biohazard for that, I think im going to go with a 60 Amp inline fuse my local Auto electrician has for a few dollars and ill see if that works for me.

Another problem im having trouble trying to work out is my 3 speed Switch from Grin and my Magura Throttle which has a range from 0-5 volts and from what i can tell from the photo the grin 3 speed i have is the one for the CA and it has a maximum voltage of 3.3V so i figure i need to drop my voltage to 3.3 volts also for the throttle.

Will i neeed a 2k resistor for this to work after reading this post http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26283i figured i would but not totally sure.

I there anyone out there that has done this with success that can direct me to a thread regarding this at all please.

I connected everthing on my bike today with the rear wheel up off the ground for the 1st time so i could start to set up the CAV3.

After i connected the battery i turned the controller on and the little red light didnt come on so i thought maybe the sun was making it look like it wasnt on so i switched it back and darkened the led so i could see it and tried to switch it on with no luck again.

I grabbed my multimeter and checked both sides of the fuse between the battery and the controller and have 86.8Volts both sides but neither my Controller nor my CAV3 came on at all.

Can anyone tell me if im missing something at all, My CA is hooked up to my Grin 7240 Controller, Throttle is hooked up to CA along with a 3 Speed Grin Switch my Phase wires are connected to my Motor with the Hall wires also.

Im thinking there is something wrong with the controller maybe, Its brand new from Grin Tech and when it arrived in Australia the packaging was perfect. Do these controllers have an internal fuse at all?

And has anyone had a problem like this with these controllers before at all that may be able to talk me through fixing it or am i best sending it back for Grin to take a look, "Warranty Issues if i take a look myself?"

Cograts on the frame choice[ ive got one for sale atm ] making me think twice about selling it, love the 2 tone.
You might go to a ali mc rear rim and tyre later, keep posting will be interesting.

What model controller is it? I've been waiting for a C7240-CN controller from Grin for weeks now. They sent the rest of the order to me, but keep pushing back the release date of the controllers due to "firmware problems". On the controller page of their web site the ETA for the controller is still marked as 14th May. 18th today. Not looking good.

rolls said:

What model controller is it? I've been waiting for a C7240-CN controller from Grin for weeks now. They sent the rest of the order to me, but keep pushing back the release date of the controllers due to "firmware problems". On the controller page of their web site the ETA for the controller is still marked as 14th May. 18th today. Not looking good.

Click to expand...

Its a 7240 controller, I pulled it apart to find out that the switch was no good as the pin going into the switch on the out side was very loose and just fell out. Also the LED wasnt working either.

As for grin, they cant help faulty products or delivery times, they would be putting those dates up because thats when they would have been told when they would arrive. Ive found Justin to be very good with service so far and cant fault them at all. You will find they will change the due date when they get a chance.

I replaced the switch so now the CA powers up but the LED on the controller isnt working even though the controller is turned on and powering up the CA.

Ive checked the voltage on the CA controller pin and im getting full voltage but when i checked the throttle power coming from the controller i dont get anything apart from a few milli volts and im pretty sure i should be getting around 4.3 volts and im not.

I set up the CA and im pretty sure its all good but i read somewhere abouts a guy talking about his Phase Amps going to the motor and i cant get any voltage at all to the motor or hall wires. Im not sure if the red & black hall wires are ment to give me some sort of voltage but i get nothing at all chen everything is on.

when i roll the throttle on you can see the throttle going up on the CA and if i chage screens i can watch it go from 0 volts all the way to 4.97 volts, my throttle voltage is set from 0.15V to 4.90volts but when i do this i get no motor spinning at all and after checking the phases on the Andersons i am not getting any voltage when i roll the throttle on or leave it open at full throttle.

Any ideas please as to what this could be?

Wayne

Ok so ive just checked my Mosfets and when testing them on the negative side all 3 phases read out on the multimeter as 9.24k ohms so they seem to be ok that end, then i decided to check the phases on the power side and all 3 readings read a big fat ZERO, im not getting any reading out of the power side of the Mosfets at all.
Starting to think my controller never had life in it from the factory now.

TC, have you contacted Grin about it? If they are having trouble with the new batch of controllers, maybe yours has a known issue.

I sent another email to Grin asking how its going this morning, no reply yet. I placed the order for the controller five weeks ago. I'm going to buy a Lyen controller if its going to take any longer, and if your experience is anything to go by, I may well be better off with another brand.

Yes ive emailed Grin Yesterday and they replied quite quickly with a few points for me to check

Justin was great in getting me to test a few things for voltages and ive emailed him my results but being on the other side of the world and the wrong end of it too i have to wait for them to come back in the next day to answer my emails.

With your problem being worried about the controllers he is selling, i wouldnt worry too much as its not there fault they got a bad batch from the factory and im not sure about the Infineon controllers but i think you will find they are all made very much the same way but im sure someone will correct me on this. I know people like the Lyen and the em3ev controllers but they are all Infineon based controllers but not sure if they come from the same factory or not.

Still having no luck with getting my wheel to spin. Maybe i should just throw it in the too hard basket because i have no voltage at my Controller throttle or on my Hall wires either, My controller LED light refuses to light up and i get a total short on my Phase wires coming from the controller to the motor when taken off the Active wire.
Companys like e-mtb.com.au couldnt be bothered to reply to emails and when you ring them they say they will get back to you regarding missing parts and you never hear back from them. They might make the Stealth bikes but dont give two hoots about other customers who just purchase a motor of them.

So sick of this shit already.

I bought one of the early 3540 C-Lyte Motors and the phase wires were bare and shorting inside the axle before I even got it installed. Spoke holes were so big that I even had to washer the 12Ga spokes I built the wheel with. It was not a pleasant experience to say the least. So, finally gave it up and purchased another motor from Grin. It came without any of the prior problems and I managed to get the bike on the road for a test today. Yes I wasted a few hundred dollars unless I want to spend the hours to fix the defective motor. Sometimes it's easier to bite the bullet and get past the disappointment to a final goal of making the bike usable. That is if one has the funds to do so.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=235&start=1175#p898102

Money money money, unfortunately i cant afford to buy another new controller which i think is the problem, I do understand that it isnt the shops fault if it comes from the factory already broken.
One would think that when you took the side cover off the Controller the L.E.D next to the switch wouldnt just fall apart and not be conected so i replaced that, I also had to replace the switch because the wire coming off the switch going to the board was soldered well to the pin but the pin wasnt in the Switch so i replaced the switch and have no LED when i switch it on, I get power up to the CA connector which has full power and i was able to set up the CA but i got nothing from my motor when i turned the throttle.
So i started checking things and i have dead shorts on the phases when grounded to the active wire going into the controller and absolutely no power coming from the controller into the Hall wires for the Motor.

Im at a loss on what to do now and really starting not to care at all about it and just bin the $2500 ive spent on Motor Controller CA and throttle and battery
Yes i have no money left for this project at all as it will take me 2 months just to save for another controller due to our situation. GOTO love the Australian Workers Compensation System now.

I also had a couple of ppl ask me about my drop outs, I borrowed Rodgahs idea and modded it a little for myself.

Is it possible to send the controller back to Grin?

What have Grin said about it?

Should be under warrenty. Just send it back. You shouldn't have to buy another.

Yes it is under warranty but rather than send it back and waste $120 in postage for either grin or myself , we have spoken about it and ive repaired the broken parts but im still only getting a oltage to the CA and nothing else.
I sent them another email explaining that i have fixed it 3 days ago and just waiting for a reply. Grin has just restocked there controllers so ide say they are a little busy getting out back orders atm to reply, Its just a waiting game because you cant return the product without a return code and i dont have that option just yet.

Toasty!! Looks nasty for sure so much junk out there for everyone to wade through. At least you are able to do some werq and figure things out. Most are not that blessed. Expect things will get better for you soon.