Bafang BBSxx - fault finding and fixes

Hi teslanv

I put on a crank on the square bottom bracket and indeed the clicks go away if the bracket rotates at the same speed as the motor.

Is it normal for a new unit to have some resistance rotating forward (ie peddling) the square bottom bracket? It does not spin freely and feels like two hands rubbing each other. Spinning it backwards produces the freewheel click and this has less resistance.
 
sputnik2513 said:
and first revolutions... end in the dreaded clicks problem

Here's a video, showing how loud they are
http://youtu.be/JRGq7Qc9lXE

That's normal - it's just the freewheel clicking.
 
sputnik2513 said:
Is it normal for a new unit to have some resistance rotating forward (ie peddling) the square bottom bracket? It does not spin freely and feels like two hands rubbing each other. Spinning it backwards produces the freewheel click and this has less resistance.

Yes, that's normal too.
 
tomjasz said:
I'd take the opportunity to get a motor gear and sensor at least. I have a gear stashed. I'm betting on a sensor fail and I didn't get one. $6 from greenbikekit, probably no more from Paul. I'd also ask if he has access to any connectors. Maybe you could score the plug in for the controller? Or a controller extension cable. Worth asking. Seeing I have two motors I'd stash a clutch assembly too. But I tend to be a bit of a hoarder.

I have a motor gear. Are you referring to the speed sensor? Controller extension cable might be handy for setting up the programming. Hadn't considered a clutch assembly. Anyone else have thoughts on what spares are worth getting? I see Paul has a controller listed on his website. Worth getting one?

Thanks
Andrew
 
I'm betting against needing a controller on my BBS01. Based on the lack of problems written about. Totally unscientific, just my Las Vegas gambling odds brain at work. I have two, one for leisure and one is primary transport. So I'm covered. I am again, guessing that if there is a weak spot it might be the clutch. It gets a good workout. But again, just a bet. It's cheap, enough if I can piggyback it as I did on someones order. Someone from our cable group buy was kind enough to piggyback my spare downtube battery base. IMO if we work together on orders we can all asset each other and not get quite so brutalized on shipping, even if we need to reship a part. Most bits will reship across the USA for $5.25, to at most $10. Coop buying could change the game for those able to build trust relationships using Paypal.

Just an idea...

Potentially completely off the mark, thoughts?
 
tomjasz said:
I'm betting against needing a controller on my BBS01. Based on the lack of problems written about. Totally unscientific, just my Las Vegas gambling odds brain at work. I have two, one for leisure and one is primary transport. So I'm covered. I am again, guessing that if there is a weak spot it might be the clutch. It gets a good workout. But again, just a bet. It's cheap, enough if I can piggyback it as I did on someones order. Someone from our cable group buy was kind enough to piggyback my spare downtube battery base. IMO if we work together on orders we can all asset each other and not get quite so brutalized on shipping, even if we need to reship a part. Most bits will reship across the USA for $5.25, to at most $10. Coop buying could change the game for those able to build trust relationships using Paypal.

Just an idea...

Potentially completely off the mark, thoughts?
I like your idea. I'd even be willing to ship my programming cable around for use if a regular poster wanted to pay for shipping both ways.
 
mclark999 said:
tomjasz said:
I'm betting against needing a controller on my BBS01. Based on the lack of problems written about. Totally unscientific, just my Las Vegas gambling odds brain at work. I have two, one for leisure and one is primary transport. So I'm covered. I am again, guessing that if there is a weak spot it might be the clutch. It gets a good workout. But again, just a bet. It's cheap, enough if I can piggyback it as I did on someones order. Someone from our cable group buy was kind enough to piggyback my spare downtube battery base. IMO if we work together on orders we can all asset each other and not get quite so brutalized on shipping, even if we need to reship a part. Most bits will reship across the USA for $5.25, to at most $10. Coop buying could change the game for those able to build trust relationships using Paypal.

Just an idea...

Potentially completely off the mark, thoughts?
I like your idea. I'd even be willing to ship my programming cable around for use if a regular poster wanted to pay for shipping both ways.

That's cool, perhaps a Paypal deposit, returnable, and first class tracked postage would be under $6 round trip!

I just had another conversation and compared something like a MAC motor clutch. a group of 5 could knock the price from $55 down to $40. Maybe even more if the seller would give a break on 10 pieces. Key to success being a reliable seller of the parts. There's lots of potential for problems but the group buy concept sure has worked every time I've been involved in one. I participated in several in the Vespa forums as well.
 
Hello all,

This weekend’s project was supposed to be building a programming cable and playing around with the settings on my 750 W BBS02. I built the cable, but not only could I not communicate, but the drive doesn’t work at all now.

In troubleshooting my wiring, I found that some wires had pulled out of the solder pins in the new connectors I’m using, so something likely shorted in there. My bad.

Anyway, here’s what happens when I try to use it now. I connect the display (961), connect the battery, and when I hold down the display’s power-on button, the display comes on for about a second with a flashing empty-battery indicator, then blanks except for “Error 30” in the corner.

Well, first of all, Error 30 doesn’t appear in the manual I have. Anybody know what this might be?

Second, the battery measures 53.3 V (16s LFP) both when disconnected (using a multimeter) and with the whole system connected (using a CA), so the display’s empty-battery condition is wrong.

I’m short on ideas about what to try next, any suggestions? Thanks.
 
Hi guys !!
Do dads new 20ah batterie arrived the other day, all was working well.
( working so well I was thinking about getting one)

THEN

yesterday we were riding around town and his motor stopped working. (display is on and everything there looks good) just nothing goes to the motor, I'm about to strip it down and check all the connections.. Any idea's on a more severe issue that could be at play ? Thanks guys.

Ps. Bbs01 250w 20 ah power pack.
 
Thanks, Amigafan, but I did spend at least an hour today checking every connector - continuity, shorts, wire colors, etc. I won't bore you with details, although I did cover a full page with testing notes if you're interested. :wink:

Hopefully a good night's sleep will give me a fresh start on some troubleshooting strategies.
 
cycborg said:
Hello all,

This weekend’s project was supposed to be building a programming cable and playing around with the settings on my 750 W BBS02. I built the cable, but not only could I not communicate, but the drive doesn’t work at all now.

In troubleshooting my wiring, I found that some wires had pulled out of the solder pins in the new connectors I’m using, so something likely shorted in there. My bad.

Anyway, here’s what happens when I try to use it now. I connect the display (961), connect the battery, and when I hold down the display’s power-on button, the display comes on for about a second with a flashing empty-battery indicator, then blanks except for “Error 30” in the corner.

Well, first of all, Error 30 doesn’t appear in the manual I have. Anybody know what this might be?

Second, the battery measures 53.3 V (16s LFP) both when disconnected (using a multimeter) and with the whole system connected (using a CA), so the display’s empty-battery condition is wrong.

I’m short on ideas about what to try next, any suggestions? Thanks.

I did exactly this when I was working out the cable pin out.

Bad news: You have fried the communications port in your motor/controller. Most likely by shorting the battery (P+) pin to either the TXD or RXD pin.
You need to buy a new controller (part of the motor, not the display).

Good news: You might still be able to set the assist level you think you will need for your ride. You just have to be quick. If you set the assist level right after turn on, before the ERROR 30 time out - it may change. Does mean you have to power the display off and on every time you want to change the assist level though. This depends on there only being damage to the TXD line. If the RXD line is gone too this will not work.

I gutted the potting compound out of my fried controller looking to see if there was a fuseable link or protection diode on the serial lines I could replace. There wasn't. The lines pretty much go straight into the micro controller.

EDIT: More here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=863816#p863816 and http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=869277#p869277 and http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=891985#p891985
 
Tom L said:
Bad news: You have fried the communications port in your motor/controller. Most likely by shorting the battery (P+) pin to either the TXD or RXD pin.
You need to buy a new controller (part of the motor, not the display).

Good news: You might still be able to set the assist level you think you will need for your ride. You just have to be quick. If you set the assist level right after turn on, before the ERROR 30 time out - it may change. Does mean you have to power the display off and on every time you want to change the assist level though. This depends on there only being damage to the TXD line. If the RXD line is gone too this will not work.
This is what I was afraid of. Thanks for the "good news" tip, but it turns out it isn't good news for me - I can get the PAS numbers to advance on the display but apparently they aren't getting to the controller because the CA just reads 0 W regardless of the setting.

I gutted the potting compound out of my fried controller looking to see if there was a fuseable link or protection diode on the serial lines I could replace. There wasn't. The lines pretty much go straight into the micro controller.
I remember seeing a photo of an unpotted controller on here somewhere, but I can't find it and i'd like to have it for reference/curiosity. Was that yours? If so, could you link to the post, or just repost the photo?

In an attempt to see a bright side to this, hopefully I can order my new controller pre-programmed the way I want it. Of course, without experimenting myself I don't know exactly what I want, but I do know I want the PAS speed limits lifted. I'll read through the programming thread again to see what else I might want changed.

Thanks for the input. Sorry you fried your controller but thanks for putting your experience to good use by advising other victims and potential victims.
 
I too having the tiny click-no power when throttle depressed issue too.

I had done only 20 miles (10 miles on load - the rest done free air) when this occurred.

Purhcased from Paul- EM3EV.

Throttle doesn't work
PAS doesn't work
Display shows no errors
Slight click when throttled depressed.

I don't have the S/N to hand but its the new 25A 750 BBS-02 that Paul is selling at EM3EV. I've contacted him hoping to get some resolution soon.

From reading through these threads it seems that most faults are happening in the first 0-200 miles. Seems like a QC issue.
 
gorndog said:
I too having the tiny click-no power when throttle depressed issue too.

I had done only 20 miles (10 miles on load - the rest done free air) when this occurred.

Purhcased from Paul- EM3EV.

Throttle doesn't work
PAS doesn't work
Display shows no errors
Slight click when throttled depressed.

I don't have the S/N to hand but its the new 25A 750 BBS-02 that Paul is selling at EM3EV. I've contacted him hoping to get some resolution soon.

From reading through these threads it seems that most faults are happening in the first 0-200 miles. Seems like a QC issue.

Same problem I had on my first kit (never resolved problem because I was refunded my money). When you hit the throttle you get a slight click. Or if you press the (-) bottom you will get the same click. But it doesn't happen if you are holding the brake on. If you hit the throttle enough times (1 in 20 times or so) you may actually get the motor to jerk slightly.

As I remember there are several wires coming out of the controller with a plug on them that plugs into the a board on the motor. I am betting the problem is in the connection plug or wiring to/from this plug.

Bob
 
it seems that most faults are happening in the first 0-200 miles. Seems like a QC issue.

They most likely worked at the factory QC check. It is what is commonly called infant mortality. Something is very borderline in the design or part spec. Some car manufacturers still do the few mile drive to the boat or train yard to help kick out this type of defect.
 
speedmd said:
it seems that most faults are happening in the first 0-200 miles. Seems like a QC issue.

They most likely worked at the factory QC check. It is what is commonly called infant mortality. Something is very borderline in the design or part spec. Some car manufacturers still do the few mile drive to the boat or train yard to help kick out this type of defect.

I would agree something is very borderline in their specs. Hopefully, one of the suppliers can help pin it down because it seems to be one of the common problems with the kit. Once identified we can hopefully just replace a component and move on.

Bob
 
Been following the many threads on this Bafang mid drive motor and even read the mega thread on this in its entirety, I think I need to re-read some of it as my brain when numb mid-way through :oops:

I've finally made the commitment and bought a BBS01 36V 500W from BMSBattery and installed it today. When I finished, it was getting late so only done a couple of miles to try it out. So far I'm impressed with the pulling power especially on steep slopes.

After the excitement, I'm gutted to find the motor got the dreaded clicking noise which occurs when pedaling OR on throttle. I also hear this clicking when pedalling without power. Should I continue using to allow the motor to bed in and hope the noise disappears or would this be destructive exercise. Please help as I'm not sure what I should do next.

Sorry I haven't got the serial number to hand but will post it up tomorrow.
 
The click to worry about is the one where nothing else happens. You may just have a bit of a loose fit / screw somewhere if it is running. Check it in a few and if it is not notable, it may be just the normal sound from the sprag / gear movements that are common. Mine is much quieter now with the new controller and packing the gearbox with much more grease.
 
I lower the volume control on my hearing aids and ride on...

"Dreaded click" seems to be becoming an over used phrase?
 
spockie said:
After the excitement, I'm gutted to find the motor got the dreaded clicking noise which occurs when pedaling OR on throttle. I also hear this clicking when pedalling without power. Should I continue using to allow the motor to bed in and hope the noise disappears or would this be destructive exercise. Please help as I'm not sure what I should do next.

The click your hearing I have had since day one but as speedmd indicated that's not the click we're talking about. We are talking about when your drive goes completely dead with no indication of a problem. Not even a fault on the monitor screen. But you can hear a very slight click when you hit the throttle or press the - button.

Bob
 
Hi all,

I recently purchased a Bafang BBS02 and installed on my Nihola cargo bike. I had no issues and it worked great hauling kids around town here in Copenhagen, and we've put on about 500km. A quiet motor, easy to use, and sufficient power for us. We've been happy with it.

A week or so ago, there was a heavy rain overnight (bike was not covered) and now it doesn't work. The display doesn't even power on. Tested the battery and the fuse and the waterproof connectors on the battery line and everything is ok.

Has anyone had issues with the Bafang and water/rain? I must say it's a bit disappointing as, in spite of a relatively dry summer, it rains here a good bit.

Any suggestions on fault fixing?

Thanks for any support!
 
The kit is water resistant, not waterproof - I wouldn't leave it out in heavy rain uncovered.

Best I can suggest is take off the display, throttle and motor unit and put them somwhere warm (airing cupboard) for a couple of days and try again.
 
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