new eZip motor

some einstein on this forum told me it was a #25 sprocket on motor. sprocket on rear wheel drkangel told me to get is good. chain is good all my work is good. need #25 11 tooth motor sprocket. seen it in daylight dont line up different 11 tooth sprocket on motor. grinding noise not motor sprocket spins chain dont move orline up. maby you all should man up because i was able to install motor without drilling holes for $30 in hardware in less than an hour. if i had the 4 way puller tool, chain tool and was told the correct info on the motor sprocket would have been running in one day. dont know who i am. i have a 160 iq maby if you all werent so busey trading martha stewert recipies i would have gotten the correctt motor sprocket specs

and please dont call me junier. will be posting video soon to prove i am right u will see the bike up and running and you will realize i was right all along cheap n simple upgrade with right tools and info

If you have a 160 iq maybe you should learn how to spell. good luck jr.

latecurtis said:

and please dont call me junier. will be posting video soon to prove i am right u will see the bike up and running and you will realize i was right all along cheap n simple upgrade with right tools and info

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I sure hope you are riht Curtis.
All we tried was to help.
I said return that motor and get a bolt in replacement.
Hope you find the problem, I think it's in the motor since it was taken apart by mistake.

It's a shame you have to be bitter about life. I would say most of ES members are not WELL OFF or as you would say "rich".
Most ride E stuf to help the planet not to show off.

You think you have it rough, I've been blind for half my life now (32 years), yeah I bitch but life goes on and so have I. Been out of work now for 5 years and 8 months, now that's a bitch to live with.

Live with what you have and stop bitchin, no ones gonna listen.(I don't mean the great group on ES) Public could give a rats ass about you. How many would go out of their way to return your posts? Not a one out in the rest of the world.

This forum has been a savior to me. Without it I probably would of lit fire to my bikes by now. Not that I need all the support supplied here but the great stories and information here.

Dan

+ 1 to the advice from dand214. Just hope you are sage enough to heed it. Good luck in your quest.

DrkAngel said:

You asked for our advice ...
but then refused to take it!
Instead, you hunted around, on your own, and decided to purchase an incompatible motor, against the advice of everyone.

If you ask for our advice, then refuse to take it ... how can we be to blame?

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Just so there's some clarity on this "Einstein" crap. . .

DrkAngel said:

Have you looked at your new motor?

It should a have an 11 tooth sprocket of #25 chain type on it ... already ...
You have decided to purchase an 80 tooth #25 chain type sprocket, to attach to your wheel ...
You will also need to purchase #25 type chain ... to connect them!

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And that is a perfectly true statement. Even I, who says most common sense is wrong, have to admit you're not likely to find one of those motors on eBay that isn't coming with an 11t #25 on it. Not that there's any sign that you have some sort of chain mismatch, I'm not understanding that gripe, but then not understanding you is a normal thing.

So you won't take advice on parts but don't think you're to blame for buying whatever you want to buy despite warnings. You know, with that sort of logic breakdown I don't think it's possible to get through to you. Every comment was that this won't work, with you insisting it HAD to because that's what you HAD to have. Hence my reference to Socialism. If that plate you put together flexes it'll cause the no longer aligned motor pinion to be angled and cause a grinding noise, the friction will slow the bike down. Whose fault would THAT be? Not anyone on this board. I see no sign in your pictures that you did a "Perfect job."

It's the rare "Fancy Build" on this board. Dang, wish there WERE more. We ooh and ahh like if someone showed up with the Porsche 908 that Steve McQueen won the P2 class with at the 12 Hours of Sebring in 1970. Doesn't mean we're going to have one. You have a lot more people cobbling together things they got free and/or had laying around.

For all your squawk about not being rich it sounds like you spent more than it would have cost to just get the proper motor we told you to get. That settles that. Blind ambition.

latecurtis said:

This is not just about this project and I am not just an average e bike rider. I want to persue other projects such as an electric front wheel drive 2 seater trike and eventually a 10 killowatt recumbent drag racing bike. If i were just another e bike owner then I would be happy just bolting something in that would work without any modifications. where is the challenge in that.

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That must be SOME SSi benefit you get. I'm more accustomed to people in the mental health board and care that takes 75% of their check and someone like me running a clothes donation program outfits them. Poverty ain't what it used to be.

latecurtis said:

i cant even ride the bus because anymore because I threatened to punch a driver in the face and he called the police. . . .and I will go back to home depot to punch somebody in the face because if they had the right size bolts the motor would at least be mounted now.

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Are you telling us this to PROVE your point about your good judgement? You don't actually know where DrkAngel lives out there, right? you think maybe this woman is actually afraid you're going to take it out on her? Why do I get the feeling she's grown accustomed it it, Mr. Tyranny of the Weak? I was a volunteer socialworker, I've grown accustomed to helpless guys who can still manage to whip the wives who take care of them with the buckle end of the belt. You sure sound like one of those.

(Sunder, forget what I said. Rip into the guy. Although you have to admit I was right about there's no point.)

latecurtis said:

some einstein on this forum told me it was a #25 sprocket on motor.

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Not true!

I pointed out that your motor often came with the #25 sprocket ... but encouraged you to confirm ...

DrkAngel said:

Have you looked at your new motor?

It should a have an 11 tooth sprocket of #25 chain type on it ... already ...
You have decided to purchase an 80 tooth #25 chain type sprocket, to attach to your wheel ...
You will also need to purchase #25 type chain ... to connect them!

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Supposedly, you researched and determined for yourself, then stated that it was indeed an 11T #25 sprocket!

latecurtis said:

yea its a #25 google images even gave me a picture of my motor exact when I typed #25 11 tooth sprocket.

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Please ... try to "man up" and take some responsibility for yourself!

He didn't call you " junier," he called you "Junior." Dang, with that 160 IQ of yours (Smirk) I'd have thought your mind would have gone right to the old Tex Avery cartoons, Junior saying "Which way did he go, George, which way did he go?" The voice of Stanley Freberg, parody of 'Of MIce and Men," et. al.

Sorry, couldn't find you a George and Junior cartoon. But Einstein himself used to say, right in the middle of major conferences, "Excuse me, gentlemen, it's time for Beany." Cecil the Seasick Sea Serphant also voiced by Stanley Freberg in both the puppet show and the cartoon.

[youtube]WMQL0wW8wns[/youtube]

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ok i admitt i should have took a closer look. not a big deal . just ordered the right one from e bay. should be here in a few days. i apologize for being a d--- yesterday.

We should all have learned something from this. Popular opinion was against this motor upgrade for the currie but the steel frame for the stock battery packs where i mounted this motor happens to be perfect for mounting this motor. Ed kloths build required lots of drilling and fabrication as it did not have the framework like my currie.

I have learned to make shure i have all my specs correct all the tools i need and all the required parts before starting a custom upgrade or build. You guys should now realize that the upgrade I have done should be a good option for anyone wishing to upgrade their currie. so this 7 page post should be cut down to 1 or 2 pages showing how to do this upgrade right. like i said before it can be done in less than 1 day. it took me over a month due to my inexperience and mistakes.

the new sprocket for the wheel is not nearly as large as you thought it would be DrkAngel. and the mount was simple as you can see in the photos. The motors are common and cheap all over ebay. just wish i could have found a 36 volt 1000 watt motor instead of 48 volts and 1000 watt. I dont want to add a forth 22 Ah battery. Too much weight. I am new to e bikes but know some thing about electronics. need 14 credits for assosiates degree in electronics. forget about what i said about the recipies. actually looked kind of good. back in the 90s I drove around in an 82 cadallick deville with 2 - 18" woffers in the trunk mounted and operating in isobaric push pull mode in a vented enclosure i built myself hooked to a 400 watt mono amp. I also build and fix desktop computers. first build was in 03 athlon 2600+ then built my duel core athlon 6000+ in 06 or 07.

I am new to the e bike world and my next build is going to be a 60 or a 72 volt chopper. looking for a 3 or a 5 killowatt hub motor and will be running lipo.

thanks and no hard feelings to all on this forum will post short video and high defenition pics of completed upgrade on my friend Dougs smartphone. Doug is also a computer geek he got a bachlers in computer science I heard somewhere on this forum that DrkAngel was into computers. we all have some things in common. sincerelly latecurtis out.

Late curtis, glad things are going good but if you really have a 160 i q you need to use spell check as your spelling is horrible. I personally do not care but you come off as a uneducated person who claims to be smart. hope your project comes out ok as i myself started with a i-zip electric bike and that is what got me hooked on electric biking. hope you have much success in your endevours. peace out.

I am new to the ebike world and my next build is going to be a 60 or a 72 volt chopper

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If you really depend on your ebike for transportation to work, I would concentrate on getting a second ebike, and make it one that is extra reliable.

If you save up some cash to get good components, the most happy ebikers seem to be using 48V X 25A = 1,200W. More power is more fun, but...more power is also more expensive. 1,200W seems to be the most fun-per-buck sweet spot. A 60V or 72V battery is VERY expensive, and if it ever has a problem, it will result in deeply anguished tears of sadness.

A 1,200W geared hub will weigh less and roll easily when you pedal with no power on, also lighter to lift onto a bus bicycle rack (if you need that). For 1,200W my favorite suggestions are a Bafang-BPM and a MAC. If you want to save a few bucks, get the BPM, but add a temp sensor as soon as you can afford, to prevent damaging anything from too much amp-heat. The MAC has about 20% more copper mass, so it will run a little cooler at the same amps, but...it also costs more.

A direct-drive 1,200W system will be slightly cheaper (yescomusa, 9C, etc), and it can take much more than 1200W if you want to hot-rod it later (lots of copper mass). It will be heavier, and it also has some magnetic drag (cogging) when pedaling with no power on. One benefit of DD hub is the option of regen-braking. The hub will temporarily become a magnetic brake, so...the hub will slow you down on a steep downhill while your stock brakes stay cool and ready to add more braking if needed.

The most expensive part will be the battery, and a high quality 48V battery that comfortably puts out 25A is going to cost a lot. If you build up a second ebike with 48V, I would then work on saving up for a third, and then sell the first one (which sounds like it has been unreliable, and will likely continue to cost you in ongoing repairs). Over time, this plan will result in two ebikes that both use 48V, so the two bikes and batteries are inter-changeable if one of them has any problems. Charger go bad? you have two of them and both batteries are 48V. Throttle acting weird? you have two of them...etc

Best of luck with whatever you decide...

Latecurtis, as always spinningmagnets advice is +1. Hope you the best.

Dauntless said:

(Sunder, forget what I said. Rip into the guy. Although you have to admit I was right about there's no point.)

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I'm not meaning so much to be derogatory towards him as point out the obvious blind spots in his thinking and his poor behaviour - and maybe have a little fun at his expense at the same time. That it did come across as a little derogatory probably means I crossed the line unintentionally.

But since I've had fun at his expense. I'll return the favour at my expense.

I will order this kit to be sent to you, completely gratis, if you PM me your address.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Front-Hub-Motor-with-26-Rim-Speed-Controller-a-/191311748989?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8b119f7d#shpCntId

It's as simple as it gets. It's front motor, so no complicated gears to mess you up. It's brushless, so it'll last a while.

However, there are a couple conditions - You accept all risks for this kit. Under no circumstance, as far as permitted by law, will I be liable for any injuries or any other losses you sustain from accepting and using this kit. You also agree that if you make any claims that I didn't send it to you, or that I somehow "shorted" you for it, I can publish the screenshot from eBay/Paypal that includes your full delivery address.

Auction and my offer ends in 15 hours. (If the bidding goes over what's reasonable, I also reserve the right to substitute it for something similar) Want it?

sunder, that is a great offer and a person would be foolish not to accept it. kuddos to you. you have restored my faith in mankind and common sense. I wish you well sir.

However, there are a couple conditions - You accept all risks for this kit. Under no circumstance, as far as permitted by law, will I be liable for any injuries or any other losses you sustain from accepting and using this kit. You also agree that if you make any claims that I didn't send it to you, or that I somehow "shorted" you for it, I can publish the screenshot from eBay/Paypal that includes your full delivery address.

Auction and my offer ends in 15 hours. (If the bidding goes over what's reasonable, I also reserve the right to substitute it for something similar) Want it?


I just read the post. I am at the library. I cant afford internet at home and hurt my leg trying to help my best friend move a washer. been out of commission for two days.
I have to go to the doctor and may need total knee replacement surgery. plus my back is really screwed up with degenerative disk disease, so yes I will accept the offer if you are serious as I will not be able to afford a car until I get my SSI or SSD settlement around April of next year. reliable transportation has been much difficult for me. The bus stop is about 15 blocks away to get to the doctor or supermarket. I will send you the address via private message. Thank you. latecurtis out.

The offer was serious, and the 15 hour limitation was only because I didn't want to have to hunt around for another cheapish 1kw, direct drive, front wheel motor after that auction ended. I hard forgotten you didn't have home internet, so that limitation was a bit unfair.

I'm willing to commit around $250USD shipped to get this working for you.

My very quick look around eBay shows me that 800W @ 36v is the best I can get now that the auction we missed is over:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-E-bike-Front-wheel-36V-800W-Motor-hub-Electric-Bicycle-Ebike-conversion-Kit-/271574467194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f3b19827a

It's a touch more than I wanted to commit to, but at least this time it's a BIN sale. If you eventually upgrade to 48V, this will be a 1kw kit, if that makes you feel any better.

Alternatively, if anyone can find a 1kw @ 36v kit for a 26", front motor, rim brake bike on eBay or something similar for around $250USD shipped, please post it here.

Latecurtis, please double and triple check all features of this kit, because this is meant to be your "no excuses" kit. (I.e. as simple as possible, no fabrication required, no excuses to not have it working a day after you receive it).

Edit: Actually, he's relisted: http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-Ebike-Conversion-Kit-Front-Hub-Motor-with-26-Rim-and-Speed-Controller-/361040937868?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540fb7838c

If you can confirm the specs are right, I'll put a reasonable bid on it, and if I win, I'll have it sent to you.

Yeah, I think this seller will have one for you if someone takes this one from you.

This is real kewl you want to do this. I hope he goes ahead and shows some appreciation.

I am back at the library and do appreciate the offer. A front kit makes a lot of sense as there is less moving parts. I am running 36 volts with 3 - 22Ah batteries. The bike is very heavy and is difficult to get in the house. I will switch to lipo when I can afford it from hobby king but not until next year when I get my SSI. The lead batteries are max life and weigh 13 pounds each. They are supposed to last 3 years so when I switch over I will give them to someone who needs them. someone who is handicapped and needs them for a power wheel chair maybe. or I will send them to you to give someone in need. Thank you again and my e mail is latecurtis@gmail.com for tracking if you send me a front wheel kit.

sincerely latecurtis.

latecurtis said:

I am back at the library and do appreciate the offer. A front kit makes a lot of sense as there is less moving parts. I am running 36 volts with 3 - 22Ah batteries. The bike is very heavy and is difficult to get in the house. I will switch to lipo when I can afford it from hobby king but not until next year when I get my SSI. The lead batteries are max life and weigh 13 pounds each. They are supposed to last 3 years so when I switch over I will give them to someone who needs them. someone who is handicapped and needs them for a power wheel chair maybe. or I will send them to you to give someone in need. Thank you again and my e mail is latecurtis@gmail.com for tracking if you send me a front wheel kit.

sincerely latecurtis.

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Was hoping for a confirmation of your wheel size and brake type, but that's okay, I'll place the order today.

I am on my friends pc he is a gamer and only got a minute; 26 inch wheel, standard brakes not disk' Thanks again latecurtisout.

Enjoy the kit. I'll send you a tracking number if the seller gives me one.

BTW, I don't understand US Zip codes. I entered in 12303, but it automatically expanded that to 12303-1115. It seems the UK does that as well, and I'm intending to move there in the next couple of years. Can anyone explain to me what the -1115 means? Is it like a sub-suburb or something? (Like I work in "North Sydney", which has a different post code to just plain Sydney?

Anyway, let us know how you go with the kit.

Don't worry bout the extra zip Sunder. It's supposed to help with sorting, etc. The main 5 digit zip is all that's really required over here.

Good on you for helping LC out.....

I look forward to the new motor and appreciate you sending it. I also will take spinning magnets advice on building a second bike which may be more reliable as e biking is my only source of transportation. When I can afford it next year when I receive my SSI disability I wish to send Sunder a gift in return.
I do wish to clear things up on the Currie motor upgrade though. The 11 tooth #25 sprocket came in the mail and I had the bike up and running in a half an hour. Very quite compared to the Currie motor, but not as fast. about 18 - 20 mph @ 36 volts and 750 watts The Currie went at least 25 mph @ 36 volts and 675 watts. DrkAngels formula predicted 26 mph @ 36 volts and 32 mph at 48 volts. The new motor falls short on these numbers and I don't know why. The new motor only gets slightly warm though and that's full throttle going up small hills without a fan. I have not hooked it up yet. Or tried a large hill yet as I fear burning out the controller, not the motor and I will tell you why.
About three miles from home the bike stopped moving. The same day I got it going.I rolled down a hill to Advanced auto. I tested the motor by hooking it direct to one battery. motor was good. I remember smelling something burnt around the controller the day I burned out the stock Currie motor. I opened up the old controller box where all the plugs from new controller mounted on the side of the box go. The motor plug was actually melted into the brake sensor plug which I unhooked before the Currie motor burned out. Also the insulation a half an inch from the motor plug was melted to the extent of causing a dead short. $1 worth of electrical tape and I was rolling again.
So not only did I successfully mount the new motor but I diagnosed and fixed the wiring problem. I fixed the new motor when it came apart installing it the first time and the mistake I made with the sprocket motor anybody could have made. The sprocket on the motor was 11 tooth and 1- 1/4" The #25 11 tooth was 1". Also the fact that the Currie has the steel framework on both sides to mount such a motor makes it a perfect for that type of motor. Ed Kloth did not have that option on his build and had to do much more fabrication and lots of drilling to mount his motor. I did not have to drill anything. and even though I did not get the longer motor bolts I wanted and had to go with cheap threaded rod, I still did it and it works. The video shall be posted soon to prove these words.
I wish to change popular opinion on this forum on this type of upgrade on the Currie only, as it has the framework for such an upgrade. I am not saying that what I did is better than a hub motor as I will decide that when I get the hub motor. What I am saying is that it is not difficult to do or expensive as long as you have the correct parts and tools which I did not. That is why it took me as long as it did. This upgrade should only take about an hour or two and is simple. It also did not require such a large sprocket as DrkAngel stated earlier on this post. I wish to take credit on this upgrade.
I saw the brushes in the new motor and they were twice the size as the ones in the old Currie motor. I know brush size is not everything as A larger magnet on a subwoofer does not mean it will be more efficient than a speaker with a smaller magnet but Larger means greater power handling and that usually wins out. It works for gas motors also so why not DC electric motors. I would not be surprised if the new motor would handle 60 volts and go 40 mph on the flat once I hook up the fan. The problem is the heavy lead batteries. I don't wish to add any more weight. I will also be taking it easy as I am smart enough to know that the cheap Chinese controller is the weak link now and I currently don't have the funds to order a new one at this time, so I will be avoiding large hills like the one that burned out the Currie motor.
I have a new post as I am fascinated with high output DC motors over 10 kilowatts. At the bike shop where I had my sprocket done there were these very large bikes, about 29" I think. They had really wide fat tires on them and disk brakes. They were also very light. The cost about $1500 also. It is what I will be getting next year when I get my disability settlement. I will be hooking up that 10+ kilowatt DC motor up to it. The one on my new post. I could use some advice on which lipo batteries I should get to power it. Do you think I can get 70 mph out of it. lol

the batteries were not fully charged in the video. i think i need a new charger. the wires are taped as i had to put the old plug of the 24 vollt and hooked it up wrong
now it dont work good. i hope the kit comes with a new charger