new design nearly ready for production

I'm guessing that any good engineer would test that fork at full compression. Maybe?
otherDoc
 
HI ,Wheels are 24"x3" with 3" tyres i was going to go for 2.5" rims but i wanted to max these but for full builds 2.5" rims would be used as i can only fit a 5 speed on the back ,but 3" could be an option,the wider rims reduce any tyer side movment.the front wheel has good clearance ,i will show this later ,battery cover is a one bolt fitting that also covers the controller mounting plate ,it is the front molding behind the front wheel ,just need to turn the wheel one side or other ,this frame is allowing for 8ah nano tecs ,opening for batterrys is 350x110 total space to be 350x110x220 on this one,got the battery space close to the ground as possible,not alot going on above wheel hight, will be offering fat frame also, 350x150x220 opening 350x150 ,will add more info later as still got some stuff to finish ,jigs all done ,but production time aint going to be super quick at present ,spare time only (evn and weekends )any one thinking they may like one (be one of the first)need to talk to Matt (idontwanttopeddal)or Pm me.we may have a couple of early bird speacials..
best regards Gary
ahh forgot to mention 135 or 150 drop out
 
dustyearlobe said:
...
Drunkskunk said:
Cool. Details?
And from the pics it looks like if the front wheel ever went to it's full compressed position, it would impact the frame in that area that might be a controller housing?
Click to expand...
it is the front molding behind the front wheel ,just need to turn the wheel one side or other ,
Click to expand...

:shock: Seriously ?
 
Hillhater said:
dustyearlobe said:
...
Drunkskunk said:
Cool. Details?
And from the pics it looks like if the front wheel ever went to it's full compressed position, it would impact the frame in that area that might be a controller housing?
Click to expand...
it is the front molding behind the front wheel ,just need to turn the wheel one side or other ,
Click to expand...

:shock: Seriously ?
Click to expand...

I think he means you turn the wheel one side or the other to access and remove the panel. Not that you need to turn the wheel if you think you're about to hit full compression on the fork :lol:
 
Better be. Where I ride, you'd compress that fork to the stops.

I see a lot of bikes looking like that, battery or a controller on the downtube. They always look too tight to me. But I haven't heard the gone to the hospital story from any of them.

BTW, start another thread to sell these, in for sale new.

Prices, location, etc.
 
This is how I see your frame:

output_osvJ90_zpsea024be3.gif


Also, at full compression, your crank would hit the ground if the rear wheel has nearly as much travel as the front. The crash that would cause would be almost as disastrous as the front wheel jamming on the frame.
 
Drunkskunk said:
This is how I see your frame:

output_osvJ90_zpsea024be3.gif


Also, at full compression, your crank would hit the ground if the rear wheel has nearly as much travel as the front. The crash that would cause would be almost as disastrous as the front wheel jamming on the frame.
Click to expand...

Cool GIF to illustrate it, but the picture isn't exactly orthogonal so it's not quite a fair simulation.
 
aaaa.jpgNot a problem
There is about 15mm clear at the front ,remember they are 3x24 with big nobbys ,maybe another 50mm would give some harsh contact, but i still think it would just be a rub than a stop.
Wouldnt like to find out thou .There is at full compression front and rear 70mm clearance on the chainring
 
dustyearlobe said:
There is at full compression front and rear 70mm clearance on the chainring
Click to expand...
On the chainring, or the cranks/pedals?

What happens if someone tries to stand for a big bump and one of the pedals goes down below the chainring, and the suspension bottoms out? :shock:
 
[youtube]kDCWmq0XVZw[/youtube]You Mean like this and he has not hit full travel on the front yet ,well all i can say is mistakes when riding will end up hurting ,but unless you want to stand on pedals 17" from the floor to avoid this (this would make it uncomfortable and no DH Bikes i have ever seen compromise this on a" It could happen")regards Gary
 
Interesting design, I like the curved plates, it is much better in distributing the stress than the sharp welded corners (and I have a design similar from this point of view :) ).
Can you show a photo of the other side?
How much does the frame weigh?
Does it have concentric pivot-BB axle?
 
amberwolf said:
dustyearlobe said:
There is at full compression front and rear 70mm clearance on the chainring
Click to expand...
On the chainring, or the cranks/pedals?

What happens if someone tries to stand for a big bump and one of the pedals goes down below the chainring, and the suspension bottoms out? :shock:
Click to expand...

That is with every downhill bike: 200mm travel(front & rear) + 170mm crank length + cca.30/2mm pedal height/2 = 385mm should be the min. unloaded BB height, rather above 400mm if you want some clearance to the ground - this is quite impracticable and uncomfortable, DH bikes usually have around 350mm.
Fully pressed front and rear suspensions at the same time are not likely to happen, and cranks must be horizontal when you bottom out.
 
Chances are, hitting a downhill hole hard enough to fully compress the fork is going to launch you over the bars anyway. The forks I have compressed to the stop were not badass forks, but 100 mm cheapies. Chances are, you wont hit the stop on that fork ever.

But do consider what happens when some doofus puts a cheap fork on it, while his good one is being repaired. Or, simply what happens if his fork leaks, and drops to the stop. Can he ride it home still? Sounds like a yes.

After a few bent cranks, you do lean to stop landing jumps with one pedal down.
 
I am wondering why the pedals at all? Seems to me you have a motor cross bike there.
You aren't going to pedal it any where for very long anyway and even your thickest Mr Plod is not going to think its a push bike. The chances of slipping off a pedal would be much greater than fixed pegs mount up out of the way.
 
Pedals ,has to have Pedals ,i have pedaled this around in the first and second ,but remember its not a motor bike ,it has no filler cap on the tank ,and when all other options have failed you can pedal home ,if you want to.That reminds me again iv a charity bike ride for the local church's this saturday, magic ,they know all about my electric addiction so ebiking its not an option :roll:
As for the cranks,yes bb hight always an issuse ,my cyclone build was built with 26" wheels and big tyres ,and yes had crank clearance built into the desighn .
This was like riding a horse (i have/can ride) when standing the pedals and the seat height had to be raised to get comfortable,hence the change to 24" still to high but better .
There the plot ends at the bare min it is now (70mm clear on the chainring /170mm cranks/200mm on the chainring/Peters already done the maths on that one)this is not allowing for tyre compresion and or a total diffrent set up ,pretty sure Dogman brought this up ,pretty sure if my dad had taught me to ride a bike ,he would have forgot to tell me how to land a jump as well,ahh personal issues saves on syc bills
 
Somone could make some pegs that bolt on to the bb like cranks but dont rotate ,should be simple
 
It's pretty easy to turn cranks into pegs, by just unbolting the cranks from the BB, then bolting BMX axle-pegs in their place. ;)

As pointed out, its' tough to do it the other way round though. :p
 
teklektik said:
Modbikemax said:
I am wondering why the pedals at all?
Click to expand...
Dunno about Oz, but no pedals = illegal in my state in the US.
Easy to switch to pegs - tough to add working pedals....
Click to expand...

Even with pedals it's a motorbike in OZ, and one you can't licence so you will be riding illegal anyway.
But I've never met a biker too worried about legalities.
 
Really nice looking frame. Can't wait till it is available.
 
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