tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
Thanks HH, I have just re greased the gearbox on a motor and will swap it over when I get a chance and see if that makes a difference albeit maybe just for a short time.
Aprilia Enjoy
- Thread starter jateureka
- Start date
Hi guys,
First of, a big thank you to all the people who have contributed to this thread.
I got myself an Aprilia Enjoy Racing about a year ago with a mind to converting it to 10s lipo power, never quite got round to it until a few weeks ago when I ordered all the bits and pieces.
Everything arrived and I put it all together and have a big problem.
As soon as I connect the batteries the wheel starts to spin??? even with the key in my pocket, I disconnected the key switch, brakes and the throttle but still it just spins as soon as I connect the battery, so with just the power wires and motor wires connected the wheel spins....
Question is have I done something wrong or is the controller faulty????? or could it be the wrong one??
The controller is a Yi Yun YK31c 24v 500w.
Please help guys as I cant wait to get this bike working, thanks in advance.
shaz
First of, a big thank you to all the people who have contributed to this thread.
I got myself an Aprilia Enjoy Racing about a year ago with a mind to converting it to 10s lipo power, never quite got round to it until a few weeks ago when I ordered all the bits and pieces.
Everything arrived and I put it all together and have a big problem.
As soon as I connect the batteries the wheel starts to spin??? even with the key in my pocket, I disconnected the key switch, brakes and the throttle but still it just spins as soon as I connect the battery, so with just the power wires and motor wires connected the wheel spins....
Question is have I done something wrong or is the controller faulty????? or could it be the wrong one??
The controller is a Yi Yun YK31c 24v 500w.
Please help guys as I cant wait to get this bike working, thanks in advance.
shaz
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
Welcome shaz,
I would like to help you but electronics is not my field at all. I am sure one of the "techy" guys on here will help you soon.
One of my Aprilias has the wheel spinning as soon as I turn the key on but only a very slow turn so I haven't worried about it.Obviously there is somehing not right with your setup and maybe it is the controller as you say or the ignition switch.
Good luck.
I would like to help you but electronics is not my field at all. I am sure one of the "techy" guys on here will help you soon.
One of my Aprilias has the wheel spinning as soon as I turn the key on but only a very slow turn so I haven't worried about it.Obviously there is somehing not right with your setup and maybe it is the controller as you say or the ignition switch.
Good luck.
Hillhater
100 TW
If you are sure there are no other connections than the power wires,....then it's definitely a dodgy controller.brummy said:
Also note, the Aprilia brake switches are the wrong polarity for that controller, so don't connect them.
Samd
10 MW
Incorrect controller wiring, bung throttle or dead controller. You can remove the controller, and test it with a small two wire dc motor if you have one.
Hi tony, HH and samd.
Thanks for replying so quickly, I think it is a faulty controller because when I connect the battery and nothing else I have got 20.6v reading on my multimeter from the motor wires.
HH I bought some Chinese brake levers when I got my controller, so that should not be the problem, also I have done a continuity test on the ignition switch and that seems fine also.
Here is a list of the bits I bought
1 x yi yun yk31c
2 x brake levers
2 x thumb throttle
1 x volt meter
6 x Turnigy 5s 5000mah 20 - 30c
10 awg wire and XT90 connectors
The charger that I have is an accucell 6 it was used to charge my rc crawler and cars.
I balanced the batts one by one bloody took ages!
I have made the serial and parallel harnesses to connect the batteries.
I have not put any fuses on yet, as I wanted some advise on what to use? I know samd had some fuses that caught fire! and then removed them, what do you use now samd?
I will try and upload some pics of my set up a bit later.
Thanks for the help guys
Shaz
Thanks for replying so quickly, I think it is a faulty controller because when I connect the battery and nothing else I have got 20.6v reading on my multimeter from the motor wires.
HH I bought some Chinese brake levers when I got my controller, so that should not be the problem, also I have done a continuity test on the ignition switch and that seems fine also.
Here is a list of the bits I bought
1 x yi yun yk31c
2 x brake levers
2 x thumb throttle
1 x volt meter
6 x Turnigy 5s 5000mah 20 - 30c
10 awg wire and XT90 connectors
The charger that I have is an accucell 6 it was used to charge my rc crawler and cars.
I balanced the batts one by one bloody took ages!
I have made the serial and parallel harnesses to connect the batteries.
I have not put any fuses on yet, as I wanted some advise on what to use? I know samd had some fuses that caught fire! and then removed them, what do you use now samd?
I will try and upload some pics of my set up a bit later.
Thanks for the help guys
Shaz
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
Hi Guys,
I recently bought a cheap rear wheel hub motor kit which was just around the corner.It was a complete unused kit and included a battery that was showing 0 Volts ( I had asked the seller what voltage it was showing) He decided to just sell the kit minus the battery in view of this. When I picked up the kit I asked if I could have the battery as I could used the case perhaps. He was happy to get rid of it.
When I looked at it ,I noticed it had 2 blown fuses,so I was able to replace them and charge it up to 42 volts (sometimes you can be lucky)
I have since removed it from the case and it fits nicely into a modified Aprilia battery box.
Here is my question.
I can ride the bike with no problems but as soon as I begin the ascent up my big hill, it stops abruptly. It completely dies and there are no lights on the twist throttle.
When I get home and check the voltage it is showing 39.6 volts when I put the multimeter on the battery terminals.
If i leave the battery for a little while it will work again but I have to wait about 15 minutes .
I bought this Aprilia a while back and it had already been converted to the chinese controller etc but have not had it apart to see which controller has been used.
Is the problem likely to be the BMS on the battery?
Here is the link to the battery.
Cheers, Tony.http://www.leafmotor.com/shoponline/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=180
I recently bought a cheap rear wheel hub motor kit which was just around the corner.It was a complete unused kit and included a battery that was showing 0 Volts ( I had asked the seller what voltage it was showing) He decided to just sell the kit minus the battery in view of this. When I picked up the kit I asked if I could have the battery as I could used the case perhaps. He was happy to get rid of it.
When I looked at it ,I noticed it had 2 blown fuses,so I was able to replace them and charge it up to 42 volts (sometimes you can be lucky)
I have since removed it from the case and it fits nicely into a modified Aprilia battery box.
Here is my question.
I can ride the bike with no problems but as soon as I begin the ascent up my big hill, it stops abruptly. It completely dies and there are no lights on the twist throttle.
When I get home and check the voltage it is showing 39.6 volts when I put the multimeter on the battery terminals.
If i leave the battery for a little while it will work again but I have to wait about 15 minutes .
I bought this Aprilia a while back and it had already been converted to the chinese controller etc but have not had it apart to see which controller has been used.
Is the problem likely to be the BMS on the battery?
Here is the link to the battery.
Cheers, Tony.http://www.leafmotor.com/shoponline/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=180
Samd
10 MW
It sure is. Circuit breaker is cutting in then resetting after a few mins.
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
Thanks Sam,
So ,if I ride without putting the battery under extreme load, it should theoretically allow me to use up the entire 10ah capacity of that battery/
So ,if I ride without putting the battery under extreme load, it should theoretically allow me to use up the entire 10ah capacity of that battery/
Samd
10 MW
Your controller is able to dish up more amps in a short period than your BMS can handle over a longer period.
Open up the controller and look for the shunt(s). Two big staples soldered to the board about the thickness of fencing wire. File back or use a dremel to reduce the amount of current your controller can pull out of the battery until it no longer trips.
Iterative.
Or buy a different battery.
Open up the controller and look for the shunt(s). Two big staples soldered to the board about the thickness of fencing wire. File back or use a dremel to reduce the amount of current your controller can pull out of the battery until it no longer trips.
Iterative.
Or buy a different battery.
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
Onya Sam,
Cheers mate,
Tony.
Cheers mate,
Tony.
Hi guys, a little update in my struggle to get mobile, after finding out that I had a faulty controller I ordered another one, this time it is a 24v 30a 350w, last one was 24v 28a 500w. What is the difference between having a 500w compared to 350w? less speed?
anyway I tested this controller by attaching a multi-meter to the motor wires, the key switch and the thumb throttle. every thing seems to work this time,
the only problem is with every thing connected with one 5s brick to power it, when I twist the thumb throttle the reading I get on my multi-meter shows 20.9v from 0 to half throttle and from half to full it shows 20.6v? Should the voltage not gradually go up from 0 - 20.9 as I twist the throttle more?? giving the motor more and more juice??
I have tried two throttles with the same results. maybe I wired the throttle wrong? it red to red, black to black and white to green(I tried swapping the white and green to see if it would change things, it stopped working)
sorry for being so thick guys
as I'm on about being thick heres a question for you, when the display on my multi-meter shows a - does that mean that the polarity is the wrong way around? i.e red wire in the - and black wire in the +
Thanks for your help guys I'm sure that one day I will get a chance to ride my Aprilia.
anyway I tested this controller by attaching a multi-meter to the motor wires, the key switch and the thumb throttle. every thing seems to work this time,
the only problem is with every thing connected with one 5s brick to power it, when I twist the thumb throttle the reading I get on my multi-meter shows 20.9v from 0 to half throttle and from half to full it shows 20.6v? Should the voltage not gradually go up from 0 - 20.9 as I twist the throttle more?? giving the motor more and more juice??
I have tried two throttles with the same results. maybe I wired the throttle wrong? it red to red, black to black and white to green(I tried swapping the white and green to see if it would change things, it stopped working)
sorry for being so thick guys
as I'm on about being thick heres a question for you, when the display on my multi-meter shows a - does that mean that the polarity is the wrong way around? i.e red wire in the - and black wire in the +
Thanks for your help guys I'm sure that one day I will get a chance to ride my Aprilia.
jateureka
10 kW
What you are seeing is the battery voltage drop (sag) as you increase the load applied, which is normal.
Remember, the output to the motor is chopped (PWM) DC.
Remember, the output to the motor is chopped (PWM) DC.
drekkus
1 W
Looks like my battery pack is near stuffed. Neither brick will balance charge properly, one cell ( same on each) is always .1v higher than the rest. It is also only getting get to about 10km before the warning buzzer kicks in when previous I have got to 35km on the same ride. Does anyone have an opinion on the new Multistar LiPos that have appeared on the HobbyKing site. Higher capacity for the same price but only 10C. I would think 10C should be more than enough unless you were going ridiculously small in sizing your battery pack. I could afford 3 x 6600 or 8000 in the new battery pack I'm thinking of making.
On another side note I backed my work van into one of the bikes. Seems to have bent the frame somewhat so looks like I might have some spares to keep the other one going for a while
On another side note I backed my work van into one of the bikes. Seems to have bent the frame somewhat so looks like I might have some spares to keep the other one going for a while
so I've decided to join the Aprilia bandwagon!
This bike appears to have very little use,
I would like to update it to LIPO, what cell configs are you guys using?
I also plan on doing a bunch of upgrades such as better forks, disk breaks, and hopefully a power upgrade to get more than 25k/h top speed! the Motor seems to have quite a bit of copper mass, what power ratings are possible?
anyway lets see how we go should be a heap of fun!
Mitch- Melbourne VIC
drekkus
1 W
I went with 6s but I wouldn't mind trying an 8s setup just to see what the speed difference is
I ended up buying 5 of the 6s 6600maH Multistar batteries. 2 have gone into the original battery box in place of the 2 8000maH and the other 3 into a rack mounted box. So up to 33000maH on the bike at the same time though I set it up so both packs can't be connected and on at the same time. A few added safety features on the 2nd pack such as over/under voltage cut off protection as well as over current cutoff. Current and voltage display as well. Haven't had much chance yet for much testing but the limited testing I have done suggests the range should be comparable with the old nanotechs. 20 km at least on the 2 battery pack . I've only pushed the other pack to 25km so far . Voltage sag is possibly a little bit more.
I ended up buying 5 of the 6s 6600maH Multistar batteries. 2 have gone into the original battery box in place of the 2 8000maH and the other 3 into a rack mounted box. So up to 33000maH on the bike at the same time though I set it up so both packs can't be connected and on at the same time. A few added safety features on the 2nd pack such as over/under voltage cut off protection as well as over current cutoff. Current and voltage display as well. Haven't had much chance yet for much testing but the limited testing I have done suggests the range should be comparable with the old nanotechs. 20 km at least on the 2 battery pack . I've only pushed the other pack to 25km so far . Voltage sag is possibly a little bit more.
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
G'day Mitch,
I am using 6 of these.
http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/store/__15521__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack.html
They fit into the old battery case wired up in series give me 8s. With the hard cases they not only fit into the old battery case (modified) but they make a very stiff strong battery pack.
In the past I used 3 x 8S Turnigy packs in parallel also in a modified original battery pack. If you look way back in the posts you will see how Samd and Hillhater did this
I am using 6 of these.
http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/store/__15521__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack.html
They fit into the old battery case wired up in series give me 8s. With the hard cases they not only fit into the old battery case (modified) but they make a very stiff strong battery pack.
In the past I used 3 x 8S Turnigy packs in parallel also in a modified original battery pack. If you look way back in the posts you will see how Samd and Hillhater did this
I'd like to run the bike on 10's using two of these: ZIPPY Flightmax 4500mAh 10S1P 30C Long Lipo Pack (mainly because i plan on using this cell config with another project so having interchangeable packs would be great)
Then charge using: iCharger 1010Bplus 300W 10s Balance/Charger (+ 240vAC->12vDC pcsupply)
Also, update the controller to a generic 1000W 36V DC Brush Motor Controller
This gives me 320 w/h which i believe is enough for my commute, at up to 1kw and a charge time of less than 1.5hours.
other features ill add to the bike include:
upgraded shocks
disk brakes
battery monitor (V, A , Ah consumption, temp)
all in all i believe these upgrades should drag the enjoy into 2014
-Mitch
Then charge using: iCharger 1010Bplus 300W 10s Balance/Charger (+ 240vAC->12vDC pcsupply)
Also, update the controller to a generic 1000W 36V DC Brush Motor Controller
This gives me 320 w/h which i believe is enough for my commute, at up to 1kw and a charge time of less than 1.5hours.
other features ill add to the bike include:
upgraded shocks
disk brakes
battery monitor (V, A , Ah consumption, temp)
all in all i believe these upgrades should drag the enjoy into 2014
-Mitch
I took 5 min today to remove the white wire loop on the stock controller, wow what a difference it made!
even on the original NIMH cells the top speed peaked at around 50km/h
a must do modification on the stock bike.
On another note the cells and new controller are in the mail. eta 1-2 weeks.
I'm thinking about ordering cycle analyst v3 and integrating it with the torque sensor with various programed power levels. Would be great to be cruising in sweat free to work in the morning, then changing to another setting and getting your work out on the way home. With V3's throttle control this sounds all quite easy.
even on the original NIMH cells the top speed peaked at around 50km/h
a must do modification on the stock bike.
On another note the cells and new controller are in the mail. eta 1-2 weeks.
I'm thinking about ordering cycle analyst v3 and integrating it with the torque sensor with various programed power levels. Would be great to be cruising in sweat free to work in the morning, then changing to another setting and getting your work out on the way home. With V3's throttle control this sounds all quite easy.
00Tj
100 W
Hi Mitch,
Just curious how much it was as I am thinking of getting one myself?
Just curious how much it was as I am thinking of getting one myself?
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
I am thinking this might be Mitch selling his Aprilia in VIC
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aprilia-Enjoy-Electric-Bicycle-/321547851035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4addbed51b
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aprilia-Enjoy-Electric-Bicycle-/321547851035?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4addbed51b
00Tj
100 W
Well this look's like to be him as it is the same photo's and the same name?
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burnley/bicycles/electric-commuter-bicycle/1059302950
Wonder why he is selling it after so little time? I was considering buying another one on gumtree for $400 but I'm not so sure anymore?
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burnley/bicycles/electric-commuter-bicycle/1059302950
Wonder why he is selling it after so little time? I was considering buying another one on gumtree for $400 but I'm not so sure anymore?
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
00Tj said:
I wouldn't let that stop you. They are great bikes !
That bike in Tassy looks like a good buy at $400. That is about the going price at the moment. I bought one in Canberra several weeks ago, It had hardly been used at all .I paid $400 for it.
yeah had to sell to make room for another project. was looking good but i didn't have the need for such a bike..
absolutely not they're a great bike, well built and very modular which i like. for instance i had to replace the battery lock which i was able to do in less than half an hour with off the shelf components.
i hope you find one and have success with it!
absolutely not they're a great bike, well built and very modular which i like. for instance i had to replace the battery lock which i was able to do in less than half an hour with off the shelf components.
i hope you find one and have success with it!
Ken Taylor
100 W
Yes, you are expert at monitoring the market, providing pricing advice and snapping up the bargains.tonyontopofabighill said:
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