here is some info on 20v yardworks lithium ion

I didn't get around to riding last night; just watched my bad cell voltage as the pack charged slower (and safer!) than it normally does. Now I realize that with the bad batts at 21.00v, the bad cells were higher than 4.20v, and thus the bad cells just get worse as time goes by.

A smattering of ideas gelled, and the harsh light of morning hasn't diminished my enthusiasm, so here goes:

DMS or "Danger Management System". System is modular. Pick and choose your danger profile and options:

BTW, I'd want a system that could be configured to any reasonable voltage or current. So, you could use this with individual cells or complete batteries.

Over-current protection: I think a fuse and/or circuit breaker are sufficient, to protect against shorts or controller failure. Most controllers have current limit. CA can provide limit. For those who need something better, a solid state, fast acting, over-current module could be built or bought needing just 3 wires I think. This is for charge AND discharge. It's possible you might want a lower limit for charge, but charger also has its' limits too. I shudder to think what a bridge rectifier failure could do though, and that's one reason I have a 40a (or 30?) rectifier unit, with heat sink.

Under-voltage protection: I think a voltmeter and a reasonably conscientious rider keeping an eye on voltage, especially up hills or under acceleration, is a reasonable way to do LVC. A nice upgrade could be a voltage monitor that beeps under specified voltages, perhaps changing sound as voltage decreases further into the danger zone. Another upgrade would cut power completely or partially (reduce current limit) when LVC.

LVC could be done by monitoring a single cell voltage (the worst cell) pretty well IMO. Or could be done monitoring the whole pack voltage or the single battery with lowest voltage. More sophisticated, a switching system could be used to slowly, progressively monitor all cells and figure out which is the lowest and should be watched most closely.

Over-voltage/charge protection: YW batts refuse to power more than a few milli-amps when charged over about 21.10 volts. This is annoying since those are the batts I WANT to discharge to safer levels. Probably protects the YW equipment some. (BTW, saw all 5 pieces of YW LiMn equipment in Bells Corners yesterday; still no batts or chargers.) I'm not seeing a GREAT need to implement over-voltage protection to protect controller, but might be a need to consider. DMM and brain work OK for that.

Charging: This is a biggie, and I think I may have an interesting solution. "Sacrificial cell" monitoring. (Search for sacrificial here and I think you'll get some hits.) I was getting rather bored charging last night; all I had to do was keep my highest voltage while charging bulged cell at 4.20v, and the 16 good cells slowly rose safely from 3.8v to 4.07v, and in unison (no balancing needed). No BMSs were tripping on me, and no ungodly voltages seen. So it seems to me this technique will generally work, so long as you know and can monitor the voltage of the worst cell.

For discharge this sacrificial cell can be used, OR it could be tapped around and used for bike accessories or whatever. (Note that bad cells always seem to be at ends of batts.) Only issue if you don't use for motor power is that before recharging, you'd want voltage on this cell to be as low as all the other cells in pack. If you're unlucky enough that all your cells match exactly, a sacrificial cell could be emulated with a 1-20 milli-ohm resistance in series with that cell.

So I think that safe charging can be done with a single cell (or batt) voltage monitor "module", set to trip at user specified voltage from 1-100v or whatever. If you want more (perhaps you expect that some other cells might get worse and you might not notice and move the voltage monitor connections), multiple modules could be added. 4 bad cells might benefit from 4 monitor modules. Or go full bore and monitor every cell if you must, but I think 1 cell is enough. Regardless, I personally want to be able to check any cell voltage (and charge/discharge current and total voltage of system) at any time in an automated manner, perhaps via USB peripheral.

Cell/batt balancing don't really seem to be a major issue with these batts. Balancing could be done manually, semi-manually, or fully automatically, using just one shunt type circuit on worst cell/batt, or on all bulged cells/batts. But good cells seem to stay nicely balanced all by themselves.

Fast charging could start with a low resistance load, like a 1500w heater plugged into primary outlet, for more or less CC mode. When voltage limit is reached on sacrificial cell(s)/batt(s), primary load is switched off and secondary load, connected through a Triac based light dimmer type circuit (or modified standard 5amp dimmer?) is brought into play. Primary and secondary loads can be anything that works, heaters, lights (although high inrush currents are an issue with light bulbs that dimmers, or a thermistor or something may compensate for) or small stove for the alcohol still.

Triac based light dimmer type circuit would be controlled by voltage measurement(s) of cell(s). Note that, IMO so far, "AC dimming" works well for voltage and current control. The batts/cells seem to average out the 120 HZ modified sinewave peaks, so the dimmer/PWM method of control works OK (Even if peak currents every 120th of a second are higher than average or RMS current).

I have a UPM Kill-A-Watt type meter I use on charger now. Divide watt-hours by 120 to get amp-hours. I think I could set KWH price to get direct amp-hour reading. I DO think my DC and AC current measurements are higher than real RMS though, due to the modified/clipped sine wave. Once I read 16amps DC on charging and around 18-19 amps AC and my 15amp breaker; which is probably less now due to multiple inductive trips, did not trip.

For further danger management, an isolation transformer could be added, but that's a pretty boring expenditure.


I think that covers the bases of danger management. With the right options I think it might actually be fittable into a large 25 pack of king-size, especially if we exclude the size of input and output 120vac inlets/outlets, or use miniature ones.

Disclaimer: "All Danger brand products are sold with no warranty, express or implied. They are intended only for experimental usage by competent professionals with the requisite skills to handle such equipment in safe, controlled laboratory conditions. Do not inhale."
 
Tested and mounted my last 4 batts tonight. All 20 cells were within 3/100ths of a volt at close to full charge. :) Most were 4.15-4.14, a few 4.13 and one 4.12. I think I'll have to charge them and check all cells to see if any trouble-makers there but I think they are almost virgin. Might be minor bulging on 1 or two, but I think that's almost normal; especially if Cdn. Tire engineered this product just right to maximize replacement sale revenue as usual.

Wow ! I'm never hauling power robbing, heavy and bulky cases and BMS's again ! :) Bike lost 8 pounds: 1 lb of light switches and 7 lbs of cases and BMSs. Down to 75 lbs from 83.

I saw 19.96 amps a few times before the DMM showed "OL". :) I think I never hit the Xlyte controller 20a limit before now; was getting 18a max before. Current sense shunt, fuse, and who knows what else in BMS was limiting me. I never tried a discharge test over 15-16amps with these batts, when I did those tests. Now I almost don't care what the BMSs were doing; they're gone now; good riddance. Just like the YW charger; no need.

I think it's time for another top speed test. (And range should be better now too.) Only hit a mere 41.1 KMH tonight; will have to try best pack at full fresh 84v charge in daylight. I'm thinking/hoping something closer to 60 KMH; 65 is still theoretical max with no wind and on flat; I'll have to get a better reading of internal resistance now for the simulator/formulas.

I now believe that if you can't monitor your individual cell voltages, you can't know how your battery is doing too easily. I thought I was charging cells to 4.2v because batt was at 21v, but now I see that puts more than 4.2v on previously damaged cells and those cells just get worse.

Might be time to consider modifying the controller current shunt. I'm suspecting these 4110s and the stock traces/solder will give me 30a easily. But I think I should upgrade the controller power cables; they're a bit wimpy befitting a 20a controller. Time to get some current meter that will work in the 30-100a range.:) And a good milli-ohm-meter.


"Sacrificial cell" charging takes forever to top up pack when that cell is particularly bad like mine, because current drops so low and other cells still stuck at 4.0 - 4.1v. Things went quicker when I shunted the whole bad batt with heater set to low. Worked well, but some other cells snuck up to 4.23v when I wasn't looking. Automatic shunts would work better of course. But best solution may be to remove bad batt from pack.

I think I may get rid of this bad batt and/or use it for overcharging or undercharging experiments. Not sure I really want to cut bulge straps; I certainly don't have bulge strap installation equipment, nor the straps themselves.

One of these batts had been fixed at factory. Quick disconnects were added from battery to BMS so I suspect BMS was bad. Horrible tape job was done over a cut in wire where some wire piercing thing was probably used to test the problem.

My lowest serial number so far is 050010. I'm really thinking this is the 10th battery produced for consumer sale by Cdn. Tire. Highest is 050384.
 
nutsandvolts said:
I love your dive in approach. I used to be able to do this kind of thing and get paid for it, around 50% R&D, whatever I wanted, as long as it was interesting. That was a couple of bubbles ago. It is nearly impossible to find companies with the deep pockets to do this now.

:)

Been "hacking" seriously since 12 when I graduated from 300 in 1 kit to soldering and thick TTL data books, and fixing TVs etc. instead of just ripping them apart. At 11 I got embarrased in library should someone see me with same book I read at 9: "A boy and a battery". Had motors you could make from paper clips etc. Don't care what others think or not anymore. Batteries and motors are still cool, especially when they can propel you over 50 KMH for over 50 KM. :)

The other week I used a CDS photo-cell and "printed circuit resistor" (not even IC really) from that 300 in 1 kit as makeshift hall pullup sensors. I snagged a new similar 1980's kit at Salvation Army this week for $5 for (my son in 1-2 years) and for me for test parts now. Ticked me off, I waited for half price Friday at Goodwill for a really nice one with a big breadboard, and it was gone. :( Next time, breadboard models get bought right away.


Yeah, I was pulling in pretty juicy contract software developer bucks from 1997 to 2001, and still doing pretty good off and on until 2005. Now I'm salary, a bit better than my 1996 salary with good growing company that is highly Chinese (50% here in Canada, and 100% in Beijing). Network security is a good field now, with big co's dependent on the Internet and too many bad guys out there.

Gotta "Follow the money" if that's what you need. I'm hoping oil price stays high historically so there will be opportunities in electric transport. But I'd prefer to slowly retire into my own small, specialized garage business where I'm the boss, even if the pay is half of what corps will pay me these days.


I'll post some pics of bike w/ batts in my kids mtn bike thread later. Shipping tape is nicer to work with than duct tape, since it's see through and easier to remove and thinner. Almost as strong, for my purposes. Duct tape rules for mounting batts on bike though. I tried hold-down straps, and they look more professional, but add weight and slip much easier. One night I kept having to rotate my batt pack back to vertical and I thought it might fall off ! Adding a half-decent modified lawn-mower bag to the whole assembly hides all taping sins and looks much better. If I ever get out of experimental mode I will build something more "professional", but by that time I'll be on to another bike project and more experiments.

I'm REALLY thinking seriously of trying bike with studded tires this winter, for some occasional fun on not too cold days. Wonder if the snowmobile guys would think (or be right) I'd wreck their trails ? Would never consider that without powered wheel. Need something to work on for winter blahs. Maybe I could commute to work over a frozen Ottawa River. :)
 
Battery fixed by manufacturer, with quick disconnects added between main batt terminals and BMS/cover. Normally these are directly soldered and require cutting or desoldering to remove. Batt voltage connector can be removed by scraping a bit of white goop off and pulling gently-ish at center with long nose pliers; don't need to scrape all off; watch out for sparks if you use utility knife ! Horrible manufacturer repair job with black electrical tape at top, just right of center but not too visible due to low light.
IMG_1201.JPG

Cell packs at top. Note right battery is factory fixed one and has yellower covers or whatever you call those. Maybe battery has compression bands replaced too. Note that there are numbers, letters and UPC codes visible through covers. At bottom right you see that joke of a "Warranty void if sticker removed" sticker. :lol: What's it doing there ???
IMG_1202.JPG

Cells/batts wrapped with shipping tape #1.
IMG_1203.JPG

Cells/batts wrapped with shipping tape #2.
IMG_1204.JPG

20 cells/4 batts fit perfectly UNDER top bar, instead of sitting on sides of top bar which adds 4 inches of width (different batt orientation). Top pack much shorter and gives me more space.
IMG_1205.JPG

Bottom batts wrapped in black/white plastic with black facing out. Thus far, thankfully unused fire extinguisher at top left.
IMG_1207.JPG

8 batts/40 cells, and XLyte controller as seen from right of bike. Official trail dirt and other debris from riding in rain a bit previous night.
IMG_1208.JPG

View from top. Tape ain't pretty, but works wonders for "prototyping" and covers cover a multitude of tape and other sins.
 
nutsandvolts said:
Aren't these canadian tire coupons cute?
Buy gas and get 6 times the normal amount of canadian tire "money" :lol:

Too bad I'm not planning to buy any gas.

Yeah, just post anything so I'm not the only one posting... :)

Gas is one thing I refuse to buy at Can Tire. (I also refuse to ever use their auto service, unless perhaps I'm in Timbuktu and have no other choice, and couldn't do the repair myself in the parking lot.) Had a few bad Can Tire gas experiences decades ago and heard same from others; Water in gas I think, in my childhood hometown Can Tire at least.

Can Tire money is bogus to me these days. What is it, half a percent now ? My credit card gives me more cash back than that. OTOH, with CC they can track your purchases easier. I returned some broken bike parts the other day and they were able to access my purchase records once I gave them the CC I had paid with.

Someone returning a lot of YW batteries or whatever, in small chunks of one or two batts at a time, might consider paying cash at purchase and giving a fake name/number at return, so they don't give you hassles for too many returns. I don't condone that; just enjoy figuring out the theoretical angles and gotchas...

I like the "Triumph Rave" bike I based my "pocket rocket" on enough, I bought another virtually identical one I saw at the same Sally Ann for $10. :mrgreen: First thought: cheap spare parts, 2nd: no rust, perhaps this should be primary, 10th thought: Can use for measurements for non-duct tape "professional" battery etc. mounting. Thoughts 3-9 were more bizarre like building a 4-wheeler (sociable or tandem) with a minimum of parts and work. :) :)

Thus far, duct tape has been the most successful method of battery securing. Hold down straps, belts and wires haven't worked as well. But duct tape is a major pain to remove/replace etc.

I want a modular system where batts can be easily accessed, moved around or removed for other purposes, like a 2nd ebike. Now I think my more permanent solution will involve heavy duty velcro in such a way that I can easily try different configurations and battery numbers. I figure that even if the velcro is just good enough to hold everything together long enough to secure with other methods, that would be fine. But heavy duty velcro CAN be very strong if done right, so it might be sufficient for all but the most demanding riding.

Went to King Mtn or whatever last night. MAN those hills are FAST on the way down, and drain batts BIG time on the way up ! With gentle nursing at the end I only got 20 KM from first 4 YW batts; batts DO recover and I was able to use it at lower level or downhill loads for another 4 KM. McKenzie King Tea Room must have reset their breaker; I succesfully recharged those 4 batts at 6-7 amps in about 40 minutes to a relatively stable 79v or so. I avoided tripping breaker again two ways: (1) heater has a seperate cord for highly inductive (and very efficient) fan that I plug directly into other outlet, and (2) I just let the charging run until batt was topped and I was bored and it was time to go. Heater didn't help much with the night chill though as it was only putting out about 250 watts of heat with fan at full.

I LOVE this McKenzie King Tea Room "charging station". I ride the bike right up the gentle ramp there; there's no people or vehicles on the weeknights I've been there; there are very nice chairs to rest; the water fountain works; the washrooms are locked but trees work just as well. I suspect these outlets will be powered 366 days a year; they need power for security system if nothing else.

I accidentally ran my worst battery down to major danger levels on the weekend. Worst cell was 0.688v and other 4 were 1.9-2.2v. Lithium Manganese is often considered damaged or unrecoverable once they get below 2.5v (3.0v is safe LVC of course). Charging was no more trouble than normal though. I bought another batt last week and will likely use it to replace this bad batt temporarily while I return bad one. So 9th batt is now a spare.

From wife/girlfriend: "Is that a rocket in your pocket, a bulge in your lithium, or are you just happy to see me?" :) :) :mrgreen:
 
speaking of canadiantire...the one thing you couldn't buy with that funny money was gas...
i was stuck one day and found that out...here's what i did
used my ct money to buy ct gift card...then i used the gift card for my gas purchase
all from the same gas teller...they were stunned after argueing with me about using the ct money
just thought i'd add to the ct stuff on here
 
I want a modular system where batts can be easily accessed, moved around or removed for other purposes, like a 2nd ebike. Now I think my more permanent solution will involve heavy duty velcro in such a way that I can easily try different configurations and battery numbers. I figure that even if the velcro is just good enough to hold everything together long enough to secure with other methods, that would be fine. But heavy duty velcro CAN be very strong if done right, so it might be sufficient for all but the most demanding riding.
I use wide velcro from weightlifting belts and wrist/ankle weights (found in many secondhand stores). It is very reliable, provided you orient the load such that the force on the velcro is in shear. Even better is when the load pulls the velcro tighter onto itself.... i.e. looped through a ring, back onto itself (like kids' shoes).
 
wasp said:
speaking of canadiantire...the one thing you couldn't buy with that funny money was gas...
i was stuck one day and found that out...here's what i did
used my ct money to buy ct gift card...then i used the gift card for my gas purchase
all from the same gas teller...they were stunned after argueing with me about using the ct money
just thought i'd add to the ct stuff on here


ROFL. :) You never really know if a cash reg jockey might be the next einstein, but the odds are pretty high against it. So I guess you stunned them with your clearly superior problem solving abilities... :) Neat trick.

Same sort of trick is sometimes used by people who want to buy one thing at Costco but don't want to pay for a membership. They buy a gift card online and that lets them in and allows them to buy stuff with it.
 
TylerDurden said:
I use wide velcro from weightlifting belts and wrist/ankle weights (found in many secondhand stores). It is very reliable, provided you orient the load such that the force on the velcro is in shear. Even better is when the load pulls the velcro tighter onto itself.... i.e. looped through a ring, back onto itself (like kids' shoes).

Cool, thanks ! I'll look around when I check out my local thrift shops; lotsa cheap stuff with velcro there.

Was thinking of some sort of male and female velcro pattern that holds batteries to each other and the bike frame (with velcro installed on bar). But also, some long velcro strips that could wrap around the whole assembly once it's holding together by itself a bit, much like duct tape, but better looking and easier to remove/rearrange.

Dang, I just threw out my old, decrepit velcro sandals. I'll see if my kids have old shoes we don't need anymore for velcro donations. Gee, this bike will have a bit of everything on it. :)
 
nutsandvolts said:
mikereidis said:
I want a modular system where batts can be easily accessed, moved around or removed for other purposes

Yeah, I want to load a custom small boat with electric motor on my xtracycle, ride over to ottawa river, and move the batteries to the boat!

mikereidis said:
I LOVE this McKenzie King Tea Room "charging station".

I found this lonely concrete pole with AC power in vincent massey park, beside a picnic table and fields of green.
It spoke to me and said "will you be my friend" :D

Boat is do-able, in parallel I guess, assuming 12v or higher motor perhaps that can take 15-21v. I've been eyeing some of those cheaper inflatables, with raising my son as an excuse to buy a few "toys". I'd imagine Can Tire, etc. may be looking to slash prices with the season virtually come to an end, so I'll keep my eyes open for suitable bargains.

But, since I tend to look for ways to make "objects" reusable/multi-purpose/modular, I can't help but think of reusing the bike throttle, controller and motor, in addition to the batts. With all above still attached to the bike and wheel spinning of course. This way you could bike to the shore, inflate boat with compressor, mount bike in special harness on boat, put bike in, boat across, and reverse procedure at the other end. Sort of a semi-amphibious e-boat-bike.

Simplest perhaps would be a paddle-wheel, but it'd need gear down I imagine, unless very small, and probably not too efficient. Perhaps just gears and a prop, or a jet pump might be do-able without gear-down. Hmmm, maybe with a big fan connected to wheel, and enough power you could do a swamp-buggy or hovercraft... but sounds over the top right now; I must be too sober. For a non-inflatable boat; I might think about something smaller, like a cayak or canoe. But should it be instant start or "paddle first" ? :lol: :mrgreen:

Vincent Massey, huh ? I'd think about an AC outlet mapping on google maps, but the owners might notice, esp. if it gets popular, and shut them down. Probably not a big reason for owners to care too much; 1 hour of charging can't get much more expensive than a nickel or dime or two dimes probably if your electric rate is much higher than Ontario.

For those who haven't heard: I almost had a bike fire this weekend. I had been planning to slam some cut to size rubber kneeling pad or similar onto my batt terminals for some protection on the unfused side, but haven't gotten round to it yet. I now know to never use uninsulated wire to help hold the batts in place. Must have poked through my somewhat airy cover and found a place to poke through or bypass the plastic. All of the sudden, parts of the wire start glowing and smoking and I'm frantically trying to unwrap the damn thing, without getting burnt. Thankfully, only the wire suffered damage, AFAICT.
 
mikereidis said:
Simplest perhaps would be a paddle-wheel, but it'd need gear down I imagine, unless very small, and probably not too efficient. Perhaps just gears and a prop, or a jet pump might be do-able without gear-down. Hmmm, maybe with a big fan connected to wheel, and enough power you could do a swamp-buggy or hovercraft... but sounds over the top right now; I must be too sober. For a non-inflatable boat; I might think about something smaller, like a cayak or canoe. But should it be instant start or "paddle first" ? :lol: :mrgreen:

WHAT was I thinking ?? Clearly, the best solution would be a James Bond style Water Walking Ball like this one: http://www.watersphere.com/Welcome.html

They mention a motorcycle, but I don't think a gas engine is a good idea inside a ball, nor would lead acid be, for fumes/venting and spill issues. But a smaller ebike, like mine (just measured: 4 feet, 8 inches or 1.42 metres) should be able to fit and run inside a 6 foot water ball. Devil looks weird; I go mr green: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Just so long as something like this doesn't happen: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3825610222960975525&hl=en

It's sodium, but lithium is the same; but I thought I heard these Lithium Ions, and perhaps moreso the "inert lithium batts" can survive and even work OK in water, although corrosion and electrical leakage are issues.

Ok, enough crazy ideas; time to go ride these raw cells: 84v on the better pack, and 85v on the bad pack; sacrificial cells are sacrificed already anyway... I'll try some flatter riding tonight to see how my range is doing. I note that full throttle on hills seems to drop voltage more than on flats; seems weird since both are generally hitting the 20 amp controller limit. Bad cells are definitely raising my internal resistance and thus my voltage drop under load. But other than my range and max power dropping a bit (how much; don't know yet) I don't really notice, except for charging issues. And I raised range and power by chucking the BMSs so hard to tell at this point.
 
Ummm, I was wrong about the C (other negative) terminal not being used with YW. It's used by the charger, but not the trimmer at least. I take solace only in that I think the only other commenter on this issue said the same thing.

Lesson: never trust 1 or even 2 random guys on the Internet, even if well intentioned and they sound like they know what they're talking about. :oops:

So there's a possibility that there IS some balancing and over-charge protection in the BMSs, and perhaps using minus instead of C (for Charge(r) presumably) bypasses those protections.

Anyone using negative to charge, might want to consider moving the charger to C, but still using negative for the motor controller etc.


BTW, I wish Can Tire items could be linked, but it doesn't seem to work. Anyone ? I noted that they also carry an electric/pedal boat as well. :mrgreen: Use integrated motor, or just hook bike wheel to pedal assembly, or both. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

There seems almost nothing Can Tire doesn't have at least one crappy version of.

I've figured out the schematic for the little 4 LED voltage/capacity indicator board. Just need to figure out the divider resistor values and turn on voltages for each of the LEDs. Will have to use voltmeter with live board, cause ohmeter won't work properly with 4 dividers in parallel... I note documentation indicates percentage capacity for each LED.

I'm looking to re-purpose the board for a charging voltage monitor. But since I don't have the BMSs anymore, I'm tempted to put them on the battery pack, one on each 5 cell batt, with push button switch bypassed so they'll always glow when charged. Forcing them always on (which uses very tiny current), prevented BMS from resetting automatically.
 
wasp said:
i believe i mentioned the c- ....

Yes, you did, but I forget what you said, other than asking about it. Did you try to "set us right" ? :)

Terminal lettering on the board seems to make more sense now (From memory so may be slight different):

Disc- == Discharge Negative (goes to Negative we've been using on case)
ChrgF- == Charge(r) Fused Negative (goes to C-Negative YW charger uses)
Chrg- == Charge(r) Negative (after/without fuse; goes nowhere except on board)

Interesting that the battery positive doesn't connect directly to the BMS, except through one of the six small voltage sensing (or balancing???) lines. There seems to be plenty of tiny components on the BMS so maybe it does try to balance charge voltages; I will reconnect a BMS to test at some point. BMSs MIGHT go back, or be re-used if I can make them work well; but the heavy heat sink might have to go or be replaced with lighter one; perhaps a common heat sink for all 4 or 8 batts.

Since C- was "more negative than negative" when batt was under load, it's possible charger connection may just bypass the BMS and rely on YW charger to limit over-charge (per batt and not per cell). If a cell goes bad, the whole YW batt would be considered bad anyway.

My worst cell on bad pack is much worse now. My 26 km, avg 18 kmh "as flat as it gets here" run the other night dropped the bad batt voltage to about 15v (after recovery), but the worst cell was 0.017v ! Other batts were around 18.7v or so, so clearly my range was killed by this one bad batt, especially that worst cell. Good to know however that a really bad cell only drops range by maybe 30% or so; and since bad cells are always on top or bottom, it's easy-ish to bypass them if needed.

I noted there are at least two terminal styles on the cells; I'll recheck serial numbers to see if there is a pattern; one style seems beefier to me.

I observed the following voltage thresholds for the LED battery monitor:

18.6v - 1 LED (10%) (Avg in range = 18.8v)
19.1v - 2 LEDs (45%) (Avg 19.3v)
19.6v - 3 LEDs (70%) (Avg 19.8v)
20.1v - 4 LEDs (100%) (Avg 20.5v)

Looks like a linear straight line from 18.6v to 20.1v, for # LEDs. Percentages shown from YW doc, and seem to reasonably closely match what I've seen from discharge tests, and a real life test I did on recumbent going up and down my smallish hilled street on 2s pack, 2.8 KM each trip for 9 trips (25 Km total on 2 batts??). I'm going to retry this test on small bike if I can muster the discipline to keep motored speed down to 18 KMH vicinity to match previous test.

LED board seems to use 7 mA when all 4 LEDs lit; a bit higher than I thought it was. Would drain fully charged batt in about 40 days if left connected. Board doesn't work under 18v or so; but two resistors could be changed to operate at 3v maybe. 8 pin chip is 431AC (2.5v reference shunt w/ 0.25% accuracy and -40c to 85c temp range == automotive spec?) 14 pin chip is LM339 == quad comparator.
 
well after being the first to have a meltdown, i decided to try my luck again. but this time im using a cooling system that kicks in under heavy load.
well that and use a diod if im using two bms's in series :oops: i missed that post heh.

i liked the peformance of the battery, there was some serious power in that little pack. 8)

cheers


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06p-RQAtBTU
 
a while back i noticed that my packs discharged at the end of my ride was off
lately i have been pulling them every 30 or so charges using the - for charge
i remove from my box and charge w/ c- and reasemble...i could just add 2
more wires out but didn't feel like it...i notice my packs stay closer to each other
and perform great now(500km all motor all the time lol)
 
karma said:
well after being the first to have a meltdown, i decided to try my luck again. but this time im using a cooling system that kicks in under heavy load.
well that and use a diod if im using two bms's in series :oops: i missed that post heh.

i liked the peformance of the battery, there was some serious power in that little pack. 8)

cheers


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06p-RQAtBTU


Cool, yeah. I'd been planning to eventually have batt temp sensors (could also be useful to ensure they are pre-warmed if I go out in really cold temps), but I never really thought about cooling them. Airflow could be re-directed to them when moving fast enough, but slow, steep hills and fast charging, or test discharging, might be better with a fan. Can Tire stuck them in a case, with virtually no ventilation; but perhaps they are banking on selling many replacement batts in future.

You call them LiPo ? LiPo and LiMn are distinct, are they not ?
 
wasp said:
a while back i noticed that my packs discharged at the end of my ride was off
lately i have been pulling them every 30 or so charges using the - for charge
i remove from my box and charge w/ c- and reasemble...i could just add 2
more wires out but didn't feel like it...i notice my packs stay closer to each other
and perform great now(500km all motor all the time lol)

So are you saying they get charge balanced, but only when you use C- ? I think that'd be great news.

If that works, I'd reconsider using the BMSs, for charge balancing at least.
 
Anyone noticing bad effects from cold ? I haven't tried my "battery in a freezer" test yet, but late night outside seems almost as good.

What about voltage recovery? I had thought LiMn voltage didn't recover much after heavy usage, but my 5.6 KM test run last night dropped 2s pack voltage from 40.8v to 36.8v at end of test, and battery recovered to 38.8v within 10 minutes or so and to 39.9v after 8 hours.

AFAICT, my test run last night gave roughly similar range performance to the same test I did some time ago on recumbent; maybe 20-25% less, like 20 KM per 2 YW batts at average speed of 16 KMH or so, up and down my somewhat hilly street.

I was most concerned with voltage drop going up my street; After only 4.5 KM, the voltage was sagging to about 30v under high load; about 3v per cell, and right at the LVC point. Full throttle for a few seconds was giving me about 27v up that hill; probably no more than 4-5% grade. One good reason I guess to go to higher voltage 3s or 4s; so for given load current and voltage drop should be roughly half.
 
mikereidis said:
Anyone noticing bad effects from cold ?

Got LiMn Milwaukees and the last few mornings have ridden up the mountain in about -1c (30f) and I'm seeing about 4.6ah (2s) total pack capacity before LVC. I love these Milwaukees, but I'm taxing them way too much in 2s and pulling 8-10C sustained from them. I'm killing them fast. The service center guy said that I've lost 15% total capacity so far and I'm only at about 100 cycles on them. Need more parallel...

However my CBA II test of a Milwaukee V28 yielded 2.58ah @ 1C the other night so 2.3ah/pack under heavy loads in the cold... guess I can't complain too much about that really. They shouldn't market these batts as 3ah though unless they state that's at 1C down to 2.5v/cell where in reality the BMS cuts out at like 3.5v/cell.

EDIT: N&V makes a good point below... I doubt very much I'm seeing any capacity lose at only -1c. I'm sure it's all because I'm draining these batts in such a punishing way.
 
Ok, thanks both for the cold/capacity feedback. I AM planning to try a freezer test at some point, with the temp turned colder than normal, the batt in the freezer wrapped in a freezer bag and wires running out I guess.

A few people have warned me about cold performance, but I'd like to see real life (constant-ish current) test results. Would be nice to have temp probes wrapped on top of the batts to see how much they warm up in there under different loads.

Mike.
 
Back
Top