If I understand you correctly, then maybe I should use 16(poles) multiplied by 12.6(reduction ratio of a Q100) and place 201.6 in poles instead of 16?
Yes! Although I suspect you mean 16 poles and not pole-pairs, so assuming it is indeed 8 pole pairs then the correct effective pole count would be 101. For self starting to work well, the #poles and the "rated rpm" parameters do need to be fairly accurate, since the controller is using this to determine the expected motor kV for the open-loop drive. If you put in 8 pole-pairs rather than 100, then you would need to set your rated RPM as the actual rotor RPM (pre-gearing), rather than the hub rpm after the 12.6 to 1 reduction. That works fine too, so having 100 pole-pairs and a 400 rpm rating is functionally identical to 8 pole pairs with a 5000 rpm rating.
I feel like I am misunderstanding something here, when you say 64-65 poles, where does this number come from?
When I had the motor on the test bench I was comparing the wheel RPM with the electrical RPM that I saw on my oscilloscope and taking the ratio, although my notes from 2012 aren't particularly thorough here.
On page 42 of the manual there is a flow chart, it says "Have 3 repeatable measurements been made?" For much of my previous attempts to use the autotune for the Ls and Rs measurements, the numbers can at come in pretty wild ranges much of the time. What qualifies as 'repeatable measurements'? If say I get 74-110 for the Ls, should I use the average, what I see most often or wait until I see something very close (103, 104, 102 for the three measurements) and use something closer to that?
We almost always see values that vary by just a couple percent from one run to the next, not by +- 20% like you mention here. There are two auto-tune functions you can run, both '1' and '4' will do an autotune but with somewhat different methods. Do both of them give equally varying results?
Without your information about changing the pole count to 64-65(from 16) and changing the motor RPM to 335(from 201), the motor was painfully jerky and the whole process of programming the controller went wrong. With these changes, this q100 runs and sounds wildly better. I am sure these changes are obvious to some, but I may not have ever figured this out otherwise.
Don't feel bad it took us months of mucking around before we got a good handle on it too, the BacDoor software is meant for engineer level access to the controller and not end-user setup. ASI is planning a more end-user friendly "wizard" style software for 2015, and if this pilot release goes well and we make this into a product for next year then we'd probably package our own quick setup software too.
With the motor rpm and poles as you have it, does the displayed RPM in the bacdoor software match the rpm of the motor that you see with a tachometer or a bike speedometer? When you have the #pole pairs set correctly, then the running motor rpm shown on bacdoor will match identically with what you actually see on the motor.
I've played a little bit with the hall offset and Kv tuning per the manual. I haven't seen any mention of this but the manual seems like it's necessary. Should I simply follow the manual on this?
We've never bothered custom adjusting the hall offset, and the Kv tuning shouldn't be needed either. If you set the motor "Rated RPM" correctly, then the value for the autotune Kv will be very close to 1.0, and so it won't need any tweaking. I may be mistaken but I think that the normalized Kv parameter is only there to adjust if the nameplate RPM at the system voltage is off, but you might as well just get the RPM setting correct in the first place.
I imagine with this information in mind, I may be able to gain much more success with a Q75 (sensorless geared) as well. Sorry for writing so much. Thanks!
Let us hope, and please keep sharing your results one way or the other until we get this running perfectly.
Currently in Turkey on the Suntrip tour
riding a back to back tandem solar powered row/cycle trike
. 550 watt solar roof, dual Grin All Axle hub motors, dual Phaserunner controllers, 12 LiGo batteries, and a whole wack of gear.
Waiting for me in Vancouver is a Big Dummy Frame (yes This One
, thanks ES!) with Grin all-axle front hub, Phaserunner controller, and 52V 19Ah Cellman triangle pack
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