Yescomusa.com 500 & 1000 watt 48v rear kit review

10k miles on the 1000w motor.

I have commuted 43 (approximately 2150 miles) of 44 days to work this school year. The one day I drove, I spent almost 2 hours on the freeway/parking lot on the way in to work, and was late for meeting.

First, I ride kinda rough and broke a spoke. Since I had an extra 500w hub (bike still in production), I just cannibalized a spoke from that bike. I will need to order a few back-up spokes for the future.

broken spoke 1000w bike.jpg

canibalized 500w bike.jpg

I also have over 4000 mile on the cyclops tire and will need to order a few more from amazon. I have been riding by serveral construction site and gotten lots on metal pieces in the tire. One time it went flat from a large metal sliver, but I pumped the tire back up, and it has lasted more than 1000 miles. I have about 6 oz of slime inside the tube. Also, the hub does seem to be much hotter after a ride. Maybe its because the new throttle and my long stretches of 35+mph or age/use. Here is my bike at work:

bike in class.jpg

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More on cheap power supplies

My 10amp, 600w power supply is still doing great. I purchased a Turnigy watt meter and adjusted this supply to 10.9 amps. It stays cool with the over sized fan. Once it hits 62 volts, it drops down to about 15-20 watts, so, you need to keep an eye on it but it is not too critical if HVC is set lower. Just don't fall asleep at night if you do not have a timer or a 20w light bulb on it.

600w 10amp power supply at work.jpg

In June I ordered 2 of these 400w power supplies as back-up:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/400W-60V-6-6A-Single-Output-Switching-power-supply-AC-to-DC-SMPS-CNC/1667637251.html

exploded led server power supply.jpg

I use one a few times at home and it seemed to work OK, so, I brought it to school as a back-up. I measured it at 8.6amps at 62v. It did get hot.

One day I needed to bring a power supply with me to work because I was going to a special training at a different site, so I got out the other power supply for the same aliexpress vender, and set it up to bring with me the next day. When I plugged it into the battery it charged for about 5 seconds before there was a loud pop and it went dead. This is what it looked like when I opened it up.

inside exploded cheap power supply.jpg

I do not recommend these supplies for charging.

I will recommend this ebay dc to dc step-up supply.



It only does 1.5 amps at 62v with my 12v supply but I have more than 50 charges on my Dr. Bass and ping batteries. Since it is so slow, I use a timer to turn it off.

********************

Still working on my 18650 pack but have been very busy. Will report next time.
 
power supplies need current limiting. looks like yours just tried to push too much current.

do you need for us to identify your parts that blew up on our power supplies? are the transistors dead or is it something else there that blew up? looks like the flames came from under the heatsink on the left transistor. you have to replace both at the same time with identical parts i think.
 
Thanks dumun, I used my other power supply from this vender at school this week and it stopped working. No explosion, but it is stuck at 57 volts and does 0 watts on the output. It lasted about 12 charges. I think I will spend some real money and get MeanWell on-board charger. I might change out parts if I have time but I think it will still be a waste.

Also, last week my new throttle got stuck at full power (wide open) on my way home from work. I had to use the red button to get home. I have been lazy and have not installed the cut-off brakes yet. This throttle only lasted 2 months, about 2k miles. I thought that the throttle was just a simple potentiometer. Still not sure how these actually work. This is a pain to change out. Here are some photos.

throttle stuck wide open at 2k.jpg

View attachment 2

more wires.jpg

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My current battery pack is staying well balanced but I am thinking of paralleling to save time checking. Here is each cells reading after 25 miles (56.9v).

battery readings after 25 miles 10-6-14.jpg

They seem to stay balanced as long as I do not push my range. At 62. volts the they range from 4.17 to 4.12. I usually check about 2 time a week.

I will have time this month to fix my spot welder and maybe finish my 18650 pack. These Hobby King pack were purchased to extend my range but seem to be working well as a main pack.
 
12000+ mile update on the 1000w kit, still doing great. I started work this year 8/4/14 and have driven my car just 4 days (of about 80). I will report later on the 500w kit but it is working great as a weekend, around town bike.

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In late June I received a retro check in the mail for $680.00. Apparently, we (teachers) received a raise at some point during the year. After studying all the options for batteries, I decided to purchase some new Sansung 18650 22p batteries and attempt to build a larger, commuter battery pack with my cheap tab welder. These batteries were rated up to 10 amps and 2.2 amp hours but some data showed them getting very hot at 10 amps, but they worked fine (cool) at about 2 amps. I already had a design. I ordered them off aliexpress at $3.50 each shipped. 3 weeks later I had these in my living room.

View attachment 29

View attachment 28

box open.jpg

samsung at 3.73v.jpg


So I started work on my 12p 15s 26.4AH commuter pack (see earlier design)

working on battery 1.jpg

working on battery 2.jpg

working on battery 3.jpg

I got to about 9, 12p cells done when my spot welder stopped working. I could see no signs of burnt parts and the fuse was fine.

open welder.jpg

So I put away the batteries and stopped working on this project until a few weeks ago when I had some free time. I figured That I could just bypass the electronics in the spot welder. Youtube seems to have a few videos on this subject. So, I tried an experiment and removed the circuit board, hooked up all the power except the positive connection and then just tapped the two wires together. This worked fine. The small fuse would blow each time though.

View attachment 21

first try welding by tapping red wires.jpg

good weld.jpg

Next, I headed to the hardware store (Lowes) and purchased a switch and a circuit breaker.

back of welder.jpg

top switch on welder.jpg


Now I just needed to be quick on the switch and I had a good weld that still created much less heat than a soldered connection. I was back in business.

View attachment 16

welding positive side.jpg

weld close up.jpg

reinfocing older welds.jpg

finally complete 12p 15s.jpg

balance wires soldered then welded.jpg

adding balance leads.jpg


I taped all exposed parts with painters tape until I have the proper heat shrink or mylar and started working on a battery case.

battery taped and charging with helper.jpg

working on a battery case with a sheet of scrap aluminum.jpg

battery case 2.jpg

battery case 3.jpg

battery case 4.jpg

battery case 5.jpg

battery case 6.jpg

battery case 7.jpg

Here is my work bench.

work bench.jpg


and after a 2.5 mile test run

battery test run.jpg

I will report more on these cells and how the pack preforms later. I am happy I finished the project with only a few minor slips/shorts while adding balance leads. Looking for a cheap bag to glue/duct tape over the shinny aluminum case.
 
You might want to put a layer of foam between the battery pack and metal mount in case the batteries wear through the tape and short out against the metal.

Also, I agree with trying a genuine MeanWell. Mine have been working great so far. So much quieter than the HobbyKing power supply I was using before and it seems to run a lot cooler.

The shiny metal of your case could be a good thing if it helps cars see you better.
 
GiantEV

I have the aluminum battery box well padded with foam. On the bottom and back I cut off 3 inches of my daughter's yoga mat (the purple stuff) and on the sides, I glued 2 layers of flooring padding (1/4" on each side). the top is well padded too.

foam view-purple yoga matt and 2 layers of flooring pads.jpg

I have about 150 miles with this new pack. First, I have been riding through Whittier and stopping or passing the intersection of Broadway and Pickering each morning for almost 4 years and the same crossing guard has been posted most days. This week he said to me "it's electric right." He never said a word to me when I had the dollar store bag covering my pack so I know I am more visible with the aluminum case. Also, two drivers at stop signs asked if my bike had a motor,so, I have been staying closer to 20mph in town and on the bike path when others are in sight. I always peddle when visible.

1000w bike at the beach.jpg

This pack sags a little more then my 25ah, 63v HK pack when accelerating but at cruising speed of 25mph, is about the same. I charge this pack to about 62v (about 4.13/cell) and am at 54.8 when I arrive at work. On the ride home, when it is warmer, I get better performance. The first day the pack was at 56.4 when I arrived home which is about 3.76/cell.

new battery pack after 25 mile ride at 75 degrees f all cells at 3.76v.jpg

So far I am happy with this the range but it will take some getting uses to the lower cut-off voltage of 48v (3.2v per cell) and the slower charging time. When I made the impulse purchase this summer I had no faith in my ability to actually complete a working pack so I went with these cells. Here is the data and price.

View attachment 5

View attachment 4

samsung 18650 22p on aliexpress for 2.90 each.JPG


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500w bike update

I put my Ping battery pack back on the 500w bike and have been riding longer weekend rides up to 25 miles.

500w bike after 25 mile ride with 10k+ 48v 15ah ping.jpg

Two years ago, I had the wheel tuned by a professional bike mechanic and this bike rides real smooth. I will probably have my 1000w bike wheel tuned the winter if I can find this same mechanic. I have been using the ebay converter to charge the Ping. I do not have to worry about over charging because the BMS/LEDs bleed off the minimal voltage/current once it reaches the set HVC. This is set to 59 volts and only climbs to 59.1 after 24 hours on the charger.

charging ping.jpg



I had some throttle issues last month and will post on the technical form later.
 
Closing in on 13000 miles on the 1000w kit.

First, this week was my 3 year anniversary of my first ebike commute and have about 20,000 commuting-to-work miles in the last 3 years. I am confident that I have saved a ton of time sitting in traffic this year by biking to work. Since the price of gas is lower, traffic here in southern California has been terrible. Here is a relatively light day.

freeway traffic.JPG

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This month I have been testing the power/heat limits by climbing some real steep hills above Rio Hondo College. Some of the road is quite rough and there are several sections where I need to peddle real hard just to stay above 12mph. We have had several days over 80 degrees f with good views. Here are some photos of my bike.

bike by the water tower 1-16-15.jpg

view from the water tower - can see down town LA.jpg

part of the road.jpg

view from the lookout above rio hondo college.jpg


My new battery pack is doing well. I have 20 commuting days with this pack and over 1000 miles with no problems and very little heat. It is real easy to get it off and on the bike and checking each cell takes only a minute. Here it is with no changes. If I get motivated I will shrink wrap it for more water protection but it seem to be working fine.

battery and case after 1000 miles.jpg
I know I made a few mistakes with the construction of the pack but it is still in perfect balance and has plenty of capacity to get me to work on cold mornings. It does sag a lot going up hills but, on flats, is work fine. I will be happy if it last the rest of the school year. I love the 18650 concept because the case is just 3 inches wide and you can make almost any shape to fit your triangle. The hobby king lipos need to be side by side to fit enough AH in the triangle which is about 4 inches wide and not as easy to mount without effecting peddling.


+++++++++

A while back I did not see a cop off on a side street on my way to work. I was doing a little over the 20mph limit as I passed the police officer but I recovered quickly and as usual, I started pretending to be peddling hard up the road, working the bike back and forth. The officer followed me a few blocks then pulled up next to me, rolled down the passenger side window and yelled out "I thought those hub motors were more efficient." He then drove off.

Here is where I park my bike when I fill up my water bottle on my ride home.

bike next to the fallen police officer memorial at rio hondo college.jpg
 
This thread is very interesting and educational. I am looking to purchase my first kit and was thinking along the same lines. I was thinking of the 1000W kit but you mentioned that it is difficult to pedal compared to the 500W unit. Could you expand a little on that.

I have a 10 mile commute (one way) with a couple of steep sections 1/4 mile with a 19-21% slope but the majority of the ride is in the 4-5% grade on the way to work which is where I want to use the electric. On the way home I would like to just pedal as normal. You have me thinking a 500W would be better for that.

I also am curious about the heating up of the controller or hub when going up hills. Since my ride to work is basically all uphill this is somewhat of a concern to me along with water-proofness. You live in the perfect place to use this type of bike. I live way up north where it is crappy, misty, rainy a lot (Pacific NorthWET) so having a hub that can handle the wet is a serious concern for me.

I have never heard of balancing the cells like you have done and it sounds like a good idea so I'll have to read more about that, how to do it, etc.

I have looked at the prices of some of the batteries and am in shock at the prices ~$500+ for a Li battery. I'm thinking these are small batteries, this isn't a darn Prius for cryin out loud. (I have a Camry Hybrid which I love). So I can see how you got into making your own battery packs. Right now I just want a plug and play unit to get me back on the bike for some exercise and to loose a bit of weight. The knees are bad and I also have a really bad foot so this really is intriguing.

Thanks for your continued reporting on this long term project.
 
Signguy-Everett, thanks and good luck with your ebike project.

If your commute has hills, I would recommend the 1000w kit. You can always peddle and get exercise...while you are giving it 70% throttle. From what I have read here, the 500w motor has less magnetic resistance. I can peddle with no throttle at 20mph for a few minutes and maintain 15mph after the BMS shuts off the battery. On my 1000w bike I need to work more just to get 12mph. Neither bike is easy to ride with no power, but, if I am heading out to the gym and need to hit a few stores that are just out of battery range, I do not sweat it with the 500w bike.

On flat ground, the 500w 48v rear kit is almost identical to the 1000w kit. With my 15s (63v peak) battery, I get about 32mph hot off the charger with the 500w bike. The 1000w bike does about 37mph with the same battery. When I use the 48v 15Ah ping battery, the 500w bike does about 25mph and the 1000w does about 29mph. I weigh about 145 pounds and tuck when I ride at high speeds. I do not ride in view of other bikers when testing the power. The big difference is on the hills. The 1000w bike just continues up the hill with no problems. The 2.5 mile hill I travel to and from work is much safer if I can ride at the same speed (or faster) than the cars because there is no shoulder and lots of curves. The 1000w bike does 25 to 30mph (with peddling) while the 500w bike (with peddling) does about 18 to 20mph on the same hill.

Also, from my readings here, heat is not a good thing for a hub motor. I do not have a temperature sensor in or on the motor, but I notice that if I get lazy and do not peddle up the hill, the motor gets a lot warmer than on days that I peddle hard. Since I am an exercise nut, I look forward to my hill climb each day.

Both of these kits do not appear to be high quality precision machines, however, my experience has been that they can be amazingly durable and reliable. Not sure how well they would do in the rain.
 
Close to 15k miles on the 1000w bike

First, I had another throttle failure on the way home but was able to do a fix in the field with a few tools and some super glue.

universal tool and bike.jpg

park bench and bike.jpg

magnet on spring 1.jpg

park bench work space.jpg

I was able to glue it back in place and continue my commute home. The Throttle is still working fine. I think it is my first official ebike fix while out on a ride.


Also, My 60v 400w meanwell clone, which I have been using at work for about 2 years (200+ charges) took a dive off the counter and broke. It was my fault. I left the cables tangled with some tubs and when a student retrieved the tubs, the power supply tumbled to the floor. So, I ordered one more 60v 350w meanwell clone from Ali-express for about $45.

new meanwell clone 350w 60v power supply.jpg

It has been working great for the last 6 weeks. I have lost 3 chargers because of falls so I now charge on the floor at work.

battery charging at school.jpg

In addition, one morning I suddenly lost power. I have 2 fuses so I bypassed my house circuit breaker, and still had nothing, so I opened the battery box and found my 30 amp fuse and holder was toast.

burned 30 amp fuse.jpg

I bypassed this and was on my way. I have a new holder and 40 amp fuse.

While I was waiting for a charger from Ali-express I took my 60v 600w power supply to work to charge, so at home I charged with this set-up which took about 13 hours.

home charging set-up for 2 weeks.jpg

This Ebay dc to dc converter stopped working one evening, and, after examination, I saw that one of the legs to the choke (?) had detached from the board.

dc to dc converter broken choke solder joint.jpg

This was fairly easy to fix with and the converter is still used to charge my ping battery. I plan to add a fan later. You can see the plastic has melted some.

dc to dc converter showing heat and use.jpg

As back up, I ordered a back-up charger for work from ali-express that someone here posted that cost $30.00 shipped. It came as a 13s charger set at 54v.

ebay or aliexpress 30 dollar charger.jpg

ebay charger closeup.jpg

I took off the top and looked for a pot near the output, and turned the screw until I had 62.7. There are a few more pots but I just left them alone. I used it one time at home and it seems to stay at 62.7v (does not climb) so I took it to work.

ebay charger output pot.jpg

ebay charger open.jpg

I also saw that I could get two MeanWells shipped for about $70.00 each and set this system up to charge at home.

meanwell hlg-240-30a.jpg

These work great and do not make any noise. I may add a fan later too

********************

Since I am on spring break, I decided to bring my hub in to a professional bike store and get my rim tuned and true. I have been playing with it every day before I ride to work. Just got a call that my rim was cracked.

cracked rim 1000w.jpg

So, I am thinking, either I take the rim off my 500w hub sitting on my balcony that I have already cannibalized a few spokes from, and try to build a wheel, or, just stop by the yescomusa warehouse and just purchase a new 1000w kit.
 
Yescomusa is out of stock for 3+ weeks. I will be switching the rim later today. I can always ride the 500w bike with the 3 year old ping if I screw it up. I have 34 more days of school (out of 182 days), have driven 11 days, and biked the rest. Anyone know where I can get a 12g spoke wrench? I have been using a 4" adjustable wrench.
 
Switching the 500w rim to the 1000w motor took about 4 hours. I use and adjustable 4" wrench and my finger tips. Here is the sequence:

500w and 1000w motors.jpg

500w motor removed from rim.jpg

starting 1000w rim.jpg

finnished both rims.jpg

lacing the 500w rim into the 1000w motor.jpg

finger tight rim completed.jpg

at the lbs after a professional tune-up.jpg


After I got the rim on finger tight, I decided to take it back to the local bike store and get it done by a professional. It is now back on the bike and ready to go for a ride..

********************

My 12p, 15s samsung 22p 18650 battery is still working great and in in good balance (+ or - 0.01 volts between all 12p sections). I have not run it past 54v (3.6v per cell) resting voltage but it does sag to 50v going up the hill 20 miles out on a cold morning. On warm afternoons, I have completed a few 35 mile rides at about 25 miles an hour. Here is a picture of the 1000w bike at the end of the San Gabriel River bike path.

bike at the end of the san grabriel river trail.jpg


Also, I received another retro check at work, this time more than $1000.00. The best deal, right now, looks like the Samsung 25r 18650. Here is my plan.



Maybe next summer.
 
windtrader said:
Replace the rim. We all want to know how long that motor will go, not that it is already well beyond anyone's guess.
"still doing great..." he wrote
really?
he replaced two throttles/!!!/ , now China rim cracked /which is pretty common with cheap no name rims on ebikes/ ,
still doing great? maybe motor itself but not all kit/drive.
that's not great to me. What next??
Also interested how much longer that motor will last,
BUT,all must remember he rides in warm, no much rain climate - hudge difference to winter, rainy climate.
 
"still doing great..." he wrote
really?
he replaced two throttles/!!!/ , now China rim cracked /which is pretty common with cheap no name rims on ebikes/ ,
still doing great? maybe motor itself but not all kit/drive.
that's not great to me. What next??
Yes, really! Maybe you missed the update on mileage on this bike. 15k miles - yes - fifteen THOUSAND miles. I'd place a wager that this bike is likely in or near the top 10 of documented mileage on a bike here.

A couple cheap ass throttles and a rim? Seriously? I find it incredible the wheel has held up so well for so long. But that is just my opinion. -)
 
mcintyretj said:
Yescomusa is out of stock for 3+ weeks. I will be switching the rim later today. I can always ride the 500w bike with the 3 year old ping if I screw it up. I have 34 more days of school (out of 182 days), have driven 11 days, and biked the rest. Anyone know where I can get a 12g spoke wrench? I have been using a 4" adjustable wrench.

First thank you for taking the time to post this up, i am learning a lot here.

I like Park spoke wrenches, your LBS should have them, the blue one works on my 12g spoke nipples like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARK-TOOLS-...609?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c8bca2831

I've found the ebike/sapim/china nipples to be slightly off from the traditional sizes served by Park wrenches, so you'll still need your adjustable handy if a nipple gets deformed.

You certainly have the skills to true up a wheel. I've found this book http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Art-of-...033?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541599fc71

and this stand http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minoura-Wor...421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fc485175

to be the best values in wheelbuilding.

Lots of guys just use their brake pads in the frame as truing guides, although having a stand on the bench really helps get it perfect, good luck

Also i'm late to the party but if you can find a rim with steel eyelets next time, they are good against spoke pullouts. Generally if you find a rim with the same inner diameter as yours you can reuse your spokes and not disassemble the wheels, just tape the 2 rims together and move the spokes over one at a time on the rims, good luck
 
No I didn't miss update on millage, I read before I post.
Yes depends what are your standards.
Dont you think people prefer rather ride than replacing and rebuilding ...
But fixing is educational if you are the teacher.
I got 26,569 kilometers on my Tidal Force as of today and my standards for ebike are high.
Up to that millage I didn't have to even touch Alexrim rims of that bike with any wrench.
But how much was my ebike?
So yes again motor itself holds in his climate not subjected to elements of brutal winters and rain so it eventually lasts.
Another story what inside his motor right now, maybe close to the end?
 
miro13car said:
No I didn't miss update on millage, I read before I post.
Yes depends what are your standards.
Dont you think people prefer rather ride than replacing and rebuilding ...
But fixing is educational if you are the teacher.
I got 26,569 kilometers on my Tidal Force as of today and my standards for ebike are high.
Up to that millage I didn't have to even touch Alexrim rims of that bike with any wrench.
But how much was my ebike?
So yes again motor itself holds in his climate not subjected to elements of brutal winters and rain so it eventually lasts.
Another story what inside his motor right now, maybe close to the end?

Only you know the cost of your ebike, please share. High standards cost a lot of money. Here, this kit is around $300 including all but battery and charger. My point of view includes the very low cost for what you get. I don't know of any better quality or more durable kit for less money.

I give a lot of slack to this sort of kit as it gets someone into ebiking very easily and cheaply and delivers a lot of reliable miles for a first DIY ebike. Just the simple fact this is used as a daily commuter for this long amazes me. You have to expect any electrical and mechanical vehicle to need parts and service over time and this thread shows a lot of that has gone over time.
 
http://www.sandydan.com/sports/bike/river/sg/index.htm
Just some interesting trail info and photos for the people on here. I ride the same trail but only about a 5 mile jaunt (the Long Beach portion) to get part way to my night job. Putting that many miles on it is quite a feat folks. You could start a trail blog spot. 8)
I know who to ask about trail conditions farther up to the north from where I go. Avoiding the nasty traffic on the 605 by taking the trail on an ebike: that should make the TV news. You've got me wanting a bigger battery for sure. :mrgreen:
 
Did you hook the two meanwells up in series? IF so, did you put any special diodes or anything inline with the output?
 
michaelkramer11 said:
Did you hook the two meanwells up in series? IF so, did you put any special diodes or anything inline with the output?
No special diodes but I have a fuse to protect the battery. They are hooked up in series and it seems to be working fine after 50 or so charges. I hope I did not make a mistake. I know that grindz145 uses diodes but I thought that was so the meanwells could be hooked up to the battery all the time and be protected.
 
I have 11,000 miles on my yescomusa motor as well. It's been completely trouble free. I broke the thumb throttle once, but it's my fault as the kickstand was loose and the bike fell on the throttle. Moved further south from the Belmont Shores area, too bad I never saw you! There's almost zero ebike activity here in Irvine - everyone commutes via foreign "luxury" vehicles. Anyways, where did you get your replacement spokes from? I broke one, and the rest are starting to look a little beat. Any online source you can recommend, and what gauge do you recommend?
 
Hi,
I read almost everything but I have some questions.
I have a 13s4p 48V and I'm looking for a good charger.
I've also thought about buying a DCDC converter.

Why do you charge your LiPo with DC-DC Boost converter/Step up (from ebay) and why do you charge with a SP-350-48 ?
Both are only DC power supply, not CC-CV charger for battery Lithium...
What is the behavior of the charger when the battery reached the 48v or the final value of the DC charger ? (since it's not a CC CV charger)

Thank you !
 
alexis57 said:
Hi,

Why do you charge your LiPo with DC-DC Boost converter/Step up (from ebay) and why do you charge with a SP-350-48 ?
Both are only DC power supply, not CC-CV charger for battery Lithium...
What is the behavior of the charger when the battery reached the 48v or the final value of the DC charger ? (since it's not a CC CV charger)

Thank you !

Alexis57,

I have not had good luck with my CC CV kingpan chargers. Power supplies are about 1/3 the price of official ebike chargers and are more versatile. My $40, 60v 350 watt power supply can be adjusted down to 52v and up to 68v just by rotating a screw. The down side is they usually do not have a high voltage cut off point. All of my power supplies continue to trickle a few watts even after it achieves the HVC setting. Since I am always present when I charge, I do not worry too much. My HVC is set much lower than the 63v max of my battery, so, with the low current, I have about a 2 hour window. I have a lot of my ebike investment in the battery and I monitor it very well.

The ebay boost converter also continues to trickle charge some, but the BMS on the 48v ping battery uses more watts than the converter (i think it has about 30 LEDs) so it stays at HVC and is worry free. I think the converter will work with any battery with a BMS but I would attach a visible meter to make sure it does not over charge the battery.
 
oobagooba said:
First thank you for taking the time to post this up, i am learning a lot here.

I like Park spoke wrenches, your LBS should have them, the blue one works on my 12g spoke nipples like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARK-TOOLS-...609?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c8bca2831

I've found the ebike/sapim/china nipples to be slightly off from the traditional sizes served by Park wrenches, so you'll still need your adjustable handy if a nipple gets deformed.

You certainly have the skills to true up a wheel. I've found this book http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Art-of-...033?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541599fc71

and this stand http://www.ebay.com/itm/Minoura-Wor...421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fc485175

to be the best values in wheelbuilding.

Lots of guys just use their brake pads in the frame as truing guides, although having a stand on the bench really helps get it perfect, good luck

oobagooba,

Thanks for the good information and the links. My project for this summer is to put the 1000w hub in a good, slightly wider rim with good spokes. May 21st is my last day of work and I should have all the necessary tools by then. I have popped 2 spokes since I had the wheel/hub rebuilt at the LBS. Any recommendations for a rim or spokes?
 
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