Bought a new bike! (new member)- update

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
andrey320   1 W

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Post by andrey320 » Feb 14 2007 6:05pm

Thanks for the tip -
I think it will look much better with all the stickers off.
Sorry about the crapy indoor pics....
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D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Feb 14 2007 6:13pm

Got a picture of the batteries?
Last edited by D-Man on Feb 24 2007 10:22pm, edited 2 times in total.

andrey320   1 W

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Post by andrey320 » Feb 14 2007 6:21pm

I have not taken a picture of that. If you look at the second picture, under the crank where the downtube ends, you can see a silver cover held on by 2 bolts.

D-Man   1 MW

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Post by D-Man » Feb 14 2007 6:24pm

I see it now. Thanks.
Last edited by D-Man on Feb 24 2007 10:23pm, edited 2 times in total.

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lemmiwinks   100 W

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Post by lemmiwinks » Feb 14 2007 6:25pm

That's a very nice looking bike. I'm also a sucker for disc brakes. Love the slogan "Clean, green, no gasoline". 8)

Mathurin   100 kW

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Post by Mathurin » Feb 14 2007 6:33pm

Woah, it does look pretty slick...

Good luck at removing the stickers, at least that barcode.
I've had luck with windex + paper towels + elbow grease.
You have to know, not fear, that someday you are going to die. Until you know that and embrace that, you are useless. - Tyler Durden, Fight club. Ditch the fake identity you've created for yourself, walk your own way in a society of mindless drones to become real, you are not your social status.

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Ypedal   100 GW

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Post by Ypedal » Feb 14 2007 6:41pm

Nice bike !!

Take a hair blower and heat up the stickers for a minute.. they should then peel right off... then use liquid butane to clean up the glue.. *( Zippo fuel ) .

I have the same charger.. once the light goes green.. leave the charger on for at least 2 hrs..

http://www.forsenusa.com/E_bike_battery_manual_1_.pdf

You may have a different brand battery in there, but similar rules apply.

Now we start bugging you for " How strong. har far. how .. ... ... . " lol
ES site status page:
http://www.ypedal.com/ES/ES.htm
----------------
http://www.ypedal.com

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lemmiwinks   100 W

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Post by lemmiwinks » Feb 14 2007 6:45pm

Ypedal wrote: Now we start bugging you for " How strong. har far. how .. ... ... . " lol
...How much to send one to Australia?... :wink: :lol:

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xyster   1 GW

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Post by xyster » Feb 14 2007 8:50pm

I'm wondering how difficult it'd be to swap-in a new NiMH battery if Andrey's problem doesn't resolve itself after a few charges, and the problem turns out to be a bad cell. I'm assuming they're size D, and not something weird and proprietary like in some digital cameras...?
At least D's are cheap these days:

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?P ... tegory=228

24 volt chargers aren't too expensive either:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?P ... rodID=2969
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?P ... rodID=1002

Is the controller hidden in the frame next to the batteries?
Ebike: 5304/20", 72V 35A controller, 33AH 80V 20s15p (18650 sized cells) DIY lithium-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 47&start=0
Scooter: '06 Stealth s1000, 48V 30A, 4x10ah SLA
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=148
Ebike: '06 Currie Mongoose, 32V 35A, 32V 22AH hybrid SLA/Li-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1010

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fechter   100 GW

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Post by fechter » Feb 14 2007 10:02pm

I want to see the insides of the motor and controller!

Ok, we'll let you blow it up first before we take it apart. If it's well made, that won't happen for a while.

Let's see how much we can jack up the voltage!

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mr.electric   10 kW

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Post by mr.electric » Feb 15 2007 2:01am

Man I want one of those bikes too! Looks great. The best upgrade I can think of is to make a symilar size and shape LiPo a123 pack and get a stronger hub motor and controller. Then you would have the best e-bike money can buy.

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Geebee   1 kW

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Is that a tongxing hub motor I see?

Post by Geebee » Feb 15 2007 5:01am

Is that a tongxing hub motor I see?
I had a quick look at the spec.'s and as usuall they are all including pedalling.
24v/9ah battery pack, the Tongxin pulls 14.5 peak and about 7 at full throttle on the flat so with pedaling it should have a very impressive range, assuming it is a Tongxing.
Very pretty bike and is the kind that will do a lot to further the e-bike as a real force.

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Ypedal   100 GW

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Post by Ypedal » Feb 15 2007 8:57am

I would change the handlebars.. but the rest i'd keep just the way it is ! (* assuming i have another bike to haul butt ! lol ) :wink:
ES site status page:
http://www.ypedal.com/ES/ES.htm
----------------
http://www.ypedal.com

Lowell   1 MW

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Post by Lowell » Feb 15 2007 10:28am

I'd like to see mfrs also rate their bikes with no chain to show worst case, no pedal performance. Or maybe some sort of standardized test, much like the EPA fuel consumption ratings for cars.

Mathurin   100 kW

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Post by Mathurin » Feb 15 2007 11:13am

I could see this thing with black Freddy Fenders, lghts & a Surly Nice Rack. Oh, and 2.35 Big Apples, just hope they fit.
You have to know, not fear, that someday you are going to die. Until you know that and embrace that, you are useless. - Tyler Durden, Fight club. Ditch the fake identity you've created for yourself, walk your own way in a society of mindless drones to become real, you are not your social status.

andrey320   1 W

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Post by andrey320 » Feb 15 2007 12:26pm

D-Man: I don't know what the batteries look like. They were in the bike when I pulled it out of the box.

lemmiwinks: I like the slogan too. I'll probably cut it out of the box and glue it to the wall in the garage or something.

Ypedal: Thanks for the manual!

lemmiwinks: I imagine it would be very expensive to ship it to Australia. The box is very big and heavy.

xyster: I think I was interperting the charge indicator lights incorrectly. The low green light is the brightes and the mid / high are much dimmer. They are on now, and go off as I ride. I will be testing the range this week. I rode it to work and will ride it back without charging. It better make it! Only 12 miles!
I don't know where the controller is. What does it look like? I'll add a pic of what I think the controller is, let me know if this is it.

fetcher: Hopefully it will be long before we see the insides of this thing....

mr.electric: Maybe some day in the future!

Geebee: I don't know what brand the motor is. How do I find out? There is a small sticker on it, I'll read what it says and let you know.

Mathurin: Accessories are coming. I will take a look at your suggestions.

Thanks for all the comments. I appreciate the support. The stickers are coming off little by little. The bike seems to be fitting my needs perfectly at the moment. I will consider upgrading when the current systems begin to fail.

andrey320   1 W

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Post by andrey320 » Feb 15 2007 7:43pm

If anyone is interested, the same bike is being listed again by the same seller - http://cgi.ebay.com/IZIP-Electric-Urban ... dZViewItem
Same type of auction too. Only $15 shipping!

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xyster   1 GW

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Post by xyster » Feb 15 2007 8:03pm

I don't know where the controller is. What does it look like?
On your bike, I don't know where it is either. It'll probably be shaped like a box about the size of a pack of cigarettes with lots of wires going in and coming out of it.

From the looks of your bike, I'm guessing it's stuffed up inside the frame where the batteries live.

Simply put, the controller connects your throttle to your batteries and motor, and contains the circuitry that, by turning the battery power on and off real fast, converts your throttle input into faster or slower motor rpm, hence changing the bike's speed, and doing so without nearly as much loss as if it was just a variable resistor like a radio volume dial is. The controller is analogous to a car's carburetor or fuel-injection controller.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_controller
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
Ebike: 5304/20", 72V 35A controller, 33AH 80V 20s15p (18650 sized cells) DIY lithium-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 47&start=0
Scooter: '06 Stealth s1000, 48V 30A, 4x10ah SLA
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=148
Ebike: '06 Currie Mongoose, 32V 35A, 32V 22AH hybrid SLA/Li-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1010

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Reid Welch   10 MW

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Post by Reid Welch » Feb 15 2007 9:11pm

http://nano-motor.co.uk/
Weight is a function of materials, size and magnetics.
Low cost motors make up for design weaknesses with large-diameter drums and large (heavy) magnets.
Closer manufacturing tolerances and gearing allow for a small drum.
Light magnesium-alloy materials have made a lightweight - 2.3kg - 'nano' motor a practicality!
Most low-cost brushess hub motors use a drum of magnets rotating around a set of fixed coils.
Making the hub diameter large increases the torque that can be generated at low RPM to salvage hill-climbing performance.
However this increases the weight and makes small wheels hard to build

The nano incorporate an epicyclic gearbox that is factory-set to the required ratio.
This is typically 13:1 and so the motor can operate at much higher than road speed (and hence higher torque and efficiency)


Action:
Complete 100 %

Attachments:
nano internal view 1
nano internal view 2
nano internal view 3
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Who, or which one would I be, were I a great man?
NICK LUCAS
SANDY POWELL
GEORGE FORMBY

DREW PEARSON
Ans: the man atop: NICK, for sure!

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xyster   1 GW

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Post by xyster » Feb 15 2007 9:35pm

I guessed I missed it, but Andrey's bike has a brushless hubmotor? Could the controller be inside a hubmotor that small?
Ebike: 5304/20", 72V 35A controller, 33AH 80V 20s15p (18650 sized cells) DIY lithium-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 47&start=0
Scooter: '06 Stealth s1000, 48V 30A, 4x10ah SLA
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=148
Ebike: '06 Currie Mongoose, 32V 35A, 32V 22AH hybrid SLA/Li-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1010

andrey320   1 W

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Post by andrey320 » Feb 15 2007 10:11pm

I think I need to take that promo of the bike back....
My bike broke on the way home!
One of the pedals ate away the thread inside the crank and fell off. At least its a mechanical failure. The bike will not give me assist unless I am pedaling. I think it was designed this way. That is why I thought it was broken. The motor only runs when the pedals are above certain rpms or at a certain RPMs. So I had to "pretend" to pedal with one foot and push on the crank with the other. I pretty much "limped" home.
The batteries seem to work great though. 12 mile ride and lights show full power.
I registered the bike today and will call currietech tomorrow.
If I replace the cranks with slightly longer ones, will I get a little higher top pedaling speed?
I'll take pics and update tomorrow.
I'm bummed :(

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Reid Welch   10 MW

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Post by Reid Welch » Feb 15 2007 11:23pm

Andrey, it's a fairly common assembly defect, that the crank arms get switched left-for-right at the factory.

The pedals are left hand thread on the right side crank, and vice versa.
Is it possible your cranks were put on the wrong sides?
If so, the pedals will unscrew themselves in time, with the bummer results.

An easy fix, if that's all it is.


Longer cranks will give you more torque, but less top speed, I'd think
(in the sense that you'd be whipping your legs around in a greater circle).

--

What a nice bike though! The hubmotor is super high tech for this sort of thing;
it's got torque and efficiency for the -design center standard- of the bike
(I'm presuming).

I also presume that if we were to overvolt the motor to get greater speed,
this tiny, sealed-up unit may suffer from heat-related failure.
So, if it's used as intended, and not lugged up long hills
(you're not doing that), it's really about ideal.
A great value, that bike, at that price.



Prediction for Andrey
(ha ha)

Be not bummed;
that motor hummed.

The crank shall turn:
it's speed you'll yearn.
Who, or which one would I be, were I a great man?
NICK LUCAS
SANDY POWELL
GEORGE FORMBY

DREW PEARSON
Ans: the man atop: NICK, for sure!

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lemmiwinks   100 W

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Post by lemmiwinks » Feb 15 2007 11:30pm

It sounded to me as though the crank had chewed out where it fits to the bottom bracket shaft Reid. Hopefully it gets fixed up quick whatever the case.

The biggest disadvantage of longer cranks as I understand it is increased pressure on the knees. Standard seems to be 170mm, bent riders seem to like 150mm or even 110mm in some cases. A shorter crank means you can pedal faster (higher cadence) but you'll want nice low gearing for hills. I'm a "spinner" http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spinner so this is my preferred method of cycling anyway. If you're a "masher" http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#masher you might not like spinning (but it's better for ya)

andrey320   1 W

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Post by andrey320 » Feb 16 2007 12:05am

I think the problem is a cheap (soft) crank. The pedal chewed the threads out on the crank where it connects to it. So the pedal just fell out. Threads on the pedal look slightly mashed. The (female) threads on the crank are almost gone. Probably was not a mistake during assembly because the two sides are different.
You guys are right though, its not a big problem. Weak point that needs to be replaced. I just want to ride my bike!
I guess I'll stick with the standard or replacement cranks.

Reid Welch: Thanks for the diagram and this -

Be not bummed;
that motor hummed.

The crank shall turn:
it's speed you'll yearn.

Makes me feel better....

Here are the three things that I could read on the controller (the rest is in Chinese) - 300W, 24V, 15A. Is this a good controller for the size battery and motor?

The motor is stamped TONGXIN (you were right Geebee) and has a small green sticker that says, "Acebikes bicycles(taicang)co,ltd"

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xyster   1 GW

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Post by xyster » Feb 16 2007 12:41am

300W, 24V, 15A. Is this a good controller for the size battery and motor?
I think so in that it matches your motor's rated output closely, and your battery's ability to feed electricity. And the power output seems to meet your expectations (for now :-) !!! )

Watts = Volts X Amps
so
360 Watts = 24 volts X 15 amps

I don't know why they labeled it 300 watts. Not a big diff anyway.

Voltage is like water pressure in a hose. Higher the voltage, higher the 'pressure' of the electricity pushing it through the wires and components. Amperage is like the diameter of a hose. Higher the amperage, the more electricity goes through the components. It takes volts to push amps. You won't find a 6 volt 100 amp controller.

Voltage is also proportional to motor RPM. So if you want to go faster (without pedaling harder) you must increase the voltage, which means more batteries.

Amperage is proportional to torque. So if you want to climb a steeper hill, or accelerate quicker, but not go faster, you can buy or modify a controller to provide higher amperage, while keeping the voltage the same, meaning you don't necessarily need more batteries, but your same batteries will drain faster.

Watts (volts X amps) is Power.

There's a little more to it...but that's the basics behind most of the electrical mods discussed here.

Hope you can get your pedal fixed pretty easily...
Ebike: 5304/20", 72V 35A controller, 33AH 80V 20s15p (18650 sized cells) DIY lithium-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 47&start=0
Scooter: '06 Stealth s1000, 48V 30A, 4x10ah SLA
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=148
Ebike: '06 Currie Mongoose, 32V 35A, 32V 22AH hybrid SLA/Li-ion pack
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1010

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