What? I'm now in special ed? Did I say something to offend you? Sorry if I misunderstood you but I don't see the need for name calling.wesnewell wrote:I was talking about measuring the diameter to determine the spoke gauge. My special spoke ruler doesn't have a hole in it. It is just shaved off to the point where measurement starts. and there's a groove in the center of it to lay the spoke in. It's called a plastic ruler. You can buy them anywhere they sell school supplies for goodness sake. I guess if you're in special ed, it's a special ruler.
Because what I meant was that I was surprised when they bike tech pulled out a ruler "specially designed" to measure spokes and I had never seen one before. The comment had nothing to do with what you said.PetersReviews wrote:I didn't know there was a specific tool to measure this but my local bike store measured my spokes as 189mm.
I noticed the small size limit on that ebay seller, I searched again and found same seller for longer spokes, I use 240mm for my Bafang.. So just in case any one is interested..PetersReviews wrote:I didn't know there was a specific tool to measure this but my local bike store measured my spokes as 189mm. For all you spoke experts, are 12g what I should be looking for? Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel ... 338b2cf011wesnewell wrote:For those that don't know. Spoke length is measured from the inside of the elbow to the very end of the threads, most usually in millimeters. Spoke hole dia on these motors is 3.0mm. A 12G spoke is 2.6mm.
It was not directed at anyone in particular. I just found the whole thought of a special ruler stupid. Like one can't measure the spoke length with a regular ruler. No one appreciates humor any more.PetersReviews wrote:What? I'm now in special ed? Did I say something to offend you? Sorry if I misunderstood you but I don't see the need for name calling.
Ha, you were just missing the smiley face! Yeah, before this, I never knew how to properly measure the spoke length so seeing a ruler designed for just spokes kind of impressed me. Hmm... Maybe you're right about the special ed thing... Anyway, have a good night.wesnewell wrote:It was not directed at anyone in particular. I just found the whole thought of a special ruler stupid. Like one can't measure the spoke length with a regular ruler. No one appreciates humor any more.PetersReviews wrote:What? I'm now in special ed? Did I say something to offend you? Sorry if I misunderstood you but I don't see the need for name calling.
alsmith wrote:Did you look at his ebay feedback? No negative or neutral for spokes fwiwejonesss wrote:has anyone tried that ebay seller's spokes?
how is the quality ?
Punx0r wrote:I broke another spoke this morning so it will be time to rebuild this wheel as soon as I get some time. So I can start sourcing parts I'd appreciate any guidance on the following points:
* Spokes: 13 or 14g stainless steel, Sapim, DT Swiss etc?
* If using the original rim (had 12g spokes) I need washers under the heads?
* Washers should be used at the motor end to ensure the bend in the spoke is hard against the motor flange?
* What is stronger: The original double-wall narrow (23mm?) rim or a decent quality single wall rim in a wider size? I'm running 2.25" tyres if it makes any difference.
I used the same brand 14g bmx spokes with probably the same rim (Sun 39mm welded). Holds up great. The strong rim helps equate tension between spokes.wesnewell wrote:It's not the size of the spoke that causes them to break. It's the quality of the spoke and installation. If your rim is designed for 12g spokes, just get some decent 12g spokes and install them properly and forget the washers. I'm 270 lbs and haven't broken a single spoke since replacing mine with decent cheap 12g spokes that cost $10 for 100 of them with brass nipples. They were Primo brand off ebay. I laced the motor into a 39mm dh rim.
Sorry to check in late on this thread.PetersReviews wrote:
I paid a similar price for a dt swiss set (72) from ebay. Seller in london who made them to the millimeter.Tench wrote:Punxor, as your in the UK have you tried Tiller Cycles for your spokes, I have used them many times, they even do over size nipples which suit moped rims. Just had another set last week, 13g stainless sapim with over size nips £28 delivered.
As many others have already said, there's no substitute for good quality spokes properly tensioned! A good spoke, properly tensioned, with lubricated threads and properly stress relieved when built will (in my experience) not break unexpectedly. I'm a strictly amateur wheel builder but I've built maybe 18 wheels following Sheldon Brown's instructions and have not have one single spoke break over several years. His instructions are simple and methodical. Use good spokes - Sapim, DT etc and always put some oil on the threads and stress relieve as you tighten (1 full turn forward, 1/4 or 1/2 turn back) and when you've tightened up around the wheel use the 'spoke levering' technique. It's simple and it works.PetersReviews wrote:I have a rear MAC 6T motor and recently I started breaking spokes. Driving it with a 36V Ping battery, it wasn't due to torque but actually happened twice when braking down a hill (caliper brakes not disc). All 3 spokes broke in the center, not by the hub or rim. I have a couple of questions.
Thanks for any help!
- 1) What gauge spokes do I replace them with so this won't happen again?
2) Any idea what length spoke I need?
3) Any suggestions for good places to order a replacement?
4) If this happened while braking, is there something I'm doing wrong?
cal3thousand wrote:Bontrager is Treks in house brand iirc. There are likely built on machines but I would imagine that they quality may vary across their lines (and even across time)