How to restore an Airwheel ?

I've recently changed a dead cell into Airwheel's battery pack. After having closed all its screws, gyroscope now seems not understanding how to do. If i mantain a 0 degrees inclination, it goes forward. If i incline it backwards, it goes forward. Seems to be mad! Has anyone experienced the same kind of problem? Is there a process that can restore the good gyroscope behaviour? Many thanks for your attention

Have a look at this link. Scroll down to the part about calibration. Sounds like what you need. It is for the X3, could be different for other models?? This guy might be able to assist you in this.

http://openschemes.com/2014/11/14/airwheel-debug-port-and-calibration/

Be interested in hearing how it goes. Good luck.

thanks.. i'll give you updates after trying what the link suggests!

ok .. the calibration process is easy.. just open the metal cover that hides the controller .. then connect the 2 open wires (pink and grey thin wires with connectors) one into the other, thus generatig a short circuit. then reclose the entire box, close the external parts, and try to switch on lifting the airwheel up, holding by the handle. It will turn 2 times , then beeps. Now, reopen all and disconnect the pink and grey wires. Once they are opened, reclose all and try driving the perfect airwheel!

The problem now for me is on current. The battery pack had 15 good cells and 1 bad cell, which had 0,05 volts . I've replaced that with a older notebook li-ion , same type and capacity. Its climbing ability is diminished.. it switches off automatically after an unsustainable effort by the motor. Do you know if this auto switching off is normal on pcb control circuits? Do you think it's the replaced older cell responsible of this minor climbing ability? On flat it goes very good.

Cool that the calibration worked out. Sorry I can't help out with your other issue.

First question is: did you fully charge that cell before installing it? If not, you'd need to fully charge it, or if the pack's BMS and charger includes a balancing function you could leave the charger plugged in for a few days (or weeks if it is badly out of balance or that cell is very far discharged relative to the others), and it may be able to fix the problem.

Second question is: is that cell the same chemistry and type as the others? Does it have the same actual tested capacity (not just what's printed on it, but what actually is measured in a test of that cell vs the others)? The same internal resistance? If not, then it will behave differently from the others, either better or worse depending on those qualities.

To find out if it's that cell or a different one *or any) causing the problem, you'd need to use a voltmeter to measure each cell's voltage while under load, to see which is sagging to the lowest voltage. You can either load the motor down (ride it, or hold it in place and slow it down manually, etc) or you can disconnect the whole pack's main + and - from the controller, and connect those to a load (heater, light bulbs, etc) that draws enough current to simulate the motor load.

how can you measure the internal resistance and the capacity? I have bought a new battery which has the identical printed capacity, chemistry and nominal voltage. Hope this improves the situation. Then i will keep the charger plugged for 3 days. Why needs so much time for balancing? I thought it is matter of seconds during the recharging proces

Anyone know where to get the controller for this?