Removing lvc on 48v controller.
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Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Hi there, I just found out the problem with my controller, the lvc is too high even though im using a 48v battery with a 48v controller. I was wondering if anyone could assist me in this daunting task to my noobish eyes.
This is my controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1500W-1 ... 0.0.v0XVgT
Thanks in advance.
This is my controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1500W-1 ... 0.0.v0XVgT
Thanks in advance.
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
To mod the LVC, you will need to be able to disassemble the controller and solder. If you aren't confident doing that it will be easiest to buy a new controller.
Maybe one with software programmable LVC and other parameters.
Some controllers have pads with a resistor/link for multiple LVC options, many don't.
First step for me would be taking some hi res pics.
Maybe one with software programmable LVC and other parameters.
Some controllers have pads with a resistor/link for multiple LVC options, many don't.
First step for me would be taking some hi res pics.
1) x5305 Hub Motor in a 24" Sun rim with 10G spokes, Kelly 72601 controller, 74V 10Ah Turnigy LiPo 20C Battery and CycleAnalyst
2) Mac 10T rear hub in a 700C "comfort bike" 15S 5Ah LiPo, stock 28A Xie Cheng controller
3) 38" Longboard, Turnigy 6374, CC Mamba XL2 ESC
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
I am very confident opening it and soldering. I have already disasembled it twice while I was searching for the problem. I am very confident at soldering so that wont be a problem. Here are some pics.
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
LVC is supposed to be 37V according to the description. If anything, I'd think that was too low for any 48V battery pack. Why would you think you need to lower it more? For lead, you'd want a 42V LVC, For 13s rc lipo 42-45V, For 13s 18650's, 37V is about right, although I'd want 39V. For 16s lifepo4, you probably would want to raise it to at least 40V, with 43V being better imo. Sorry, I don't know where the lvc resistor circuit is on that controller.EXPERIMENTAL EV wrote:Hi there, I just found out the problem with my controller, the lvc is too high even though im using a 48v battery with a 48v controller. I was wondering if anyone could assist me in this daunting task to my noobish eyes.
This is my controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1500W-1 ... 0.0.v0XVgT
Thanks in advance.
Need Advice? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=66302
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
wesnewell wrote:LVC is supposed to be 37V according to the description. If anything, I'd think that was too low for any 48V battery pack. Why would you think you need to lower it more? For lead, you'd want a 42V LVC, For 13s rc lipo 42-45V, For 13s 18650's, 37V is about right, although I'd want 39V. For 16s lifepo4, you probably would want to raise it to at least 40V, with 43V being better imo. Sorry, I don't know where the lvc resistor circuit is on that controller.EXPERIMENTAL EV wrote:Hi there, I just found out the problem with my controller, the lvc is too high even though im using a 48v battery with a 48v controller. I was wondering if anyone could assist me in this daunting task to my noobish eyes.
This is my controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1500W-1 ... 0.0.v0XVgT
Thanks in advance.
I believe they sent me the wrong one or there is a fault. I measured the battery voltage and when it goes below 53v it cuts off. If I spin it no load with the charger plugged in it stays running otherwise it only runs for about 3 second then dies.
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
If I understand that correctly, I'd be looking at part of the battery either sagging down below cell level LVC (ie a bad cell) or going into over current protection.
If the battery charges to 53V (same as the charger) then surely it's not controller LVC?
More details like the battery, what LVC you think you are seeing etc would help.
If the battery charges to 53V (same as the charger) then surely it's not controller LVC?
More details like the battery, what LVC you think you are seeing etc would help.
1) x5305 Hub Motor in a 24" Sun rim with 10G spokes, Kelly 72601 controller, 74V 10Ah Turnigy LiPo 20C Battery and CycleAnalyst
2) Mac 10T rear hub in a 700C "comfort bike" 15S 5Ah LiPo, stock 28A Xie Cheng controller
3) 38" Longboard, Turnigy 6374, CC Mamba XL2 ESC
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- Joined: Apr 26 2016 3:55pm
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Gregory wrote:If I understand that correctly, I'd be looking at part of the battery either sagging down below cell level LVC (ie a bad cell) or going into over current protection.
If the battery charges to 53V (same as the charger) then surely it's not controller LVC?
More details like the battery, what LVC you think you are seeing etc would help.
I will attach a video link to what it does if the charger is not plugged in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8thCtsa9zto
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
OK, if you have to turn the battery off and back on to get it to turn the motor again, it's not the controller LVC cutting it off, it's the battery bms. The controller will reset itself when it sags below lvc. Just letting up on the throttle and turning it again should start the motor turning again. But if it's the bms, you have to cut the power for it to reset, which appears what you are doing.
Need Advice? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=66302
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg
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- Posts: 22
- Joined: Apr 26 2016 3:55pm
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
wesnewell wrote:OK, if you have to turn the battery off and back on to get it to turn the motor again, it's not the controller LVC cutting it off, it's the battery bms. The controller will reset itself when it sags below lvc. Just letting up on the throttle and turning it again should start the motor turning again. But if it's the bms, you have to cut the power for it to reset, which appears what you are doing.
It does not have a bms and I'm just restarting the controller not touching the battery
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Battery what battery how about a pic in a link battery?
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
It is a homebuilt 9ah 48v sla panasonic pack. I dont mean to be rude but can someone please just tell me how to remove the lvc on the controller999zip999 wrote:Battery what battery how about a pic in a link battery?

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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Not to be rude but probably not.EXPERIMENTAL EV wrote:999zip999 wrote: I dont mean to be rude but can someone please just tell me how to remove the lvc on the controller
The more I learn the more obvious the immensity of my ignorance becomes.
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.

If you're still open to advice, I'd stop focusing on changing the LVC and check the current the motor is pulling at no load. And what the voltage sags to.
1) x5305 Hub Motor in a 24" Sun rim with 10G spokes, Kelly 72601 controller, 74V 10Ah Turnigy LiPo 20C Battery and CycleAnalyst
2) Mac 10T rear hub in a 700C "comfort bike" 15S 5Ah LiPo, stock 28A Xie Cheng controller
3) 38" Longboard, Turnigy 6374, CC Mamba XL2 ESC
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- Joined: Apr 26 2016 3:55pm
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Gregory wrote:Sorry I can't help either.
If you're still open to advice, I'd stop focusing on changing the LVC and check the current the motor is pulling at no load. And what the voltage sags to.
I have actually already had a look at those. The battery doesnt drop more than 2v and the motor only draws 3 amps. Do you know anyone on this forum that might be able to help?
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Only drops 2V under a 3A load. roflmao. How much do you think it will drop under a 30A load. Those old sla batteries are shot. Under a normal takeoff, with maybe 15a draw my 10ah battery pack doesn't sag even 1V. Forget the LVC being too high. That's not your problem. The sla battery pack is. Under no load, my lithium pack doesn't sag more than 0.1V.
Need Advice? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=66302
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg
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- Posts: 22
- Joined: Apr 26 2016 3:55pm
Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
wesnewell wrote:Only drops 2V under a 3A load. roflmao. How much do you think it will drop under a 30A load. Those old sla batteries are shot. Under a normal takeoff, with maybe 15a draw my 10ah battery pack doesn't sag even 1V. Forget the LVC being too high. That's not your problem. The sla battery pack is. Under no load, my lithium pack doesn't sag more than 0.1V.
You need to bear in mind that that 2v drop is from float voltage and these are brand new panasonic sla's. Im not saying these sla's are in any way superior to lithiums. But they are not sagging below the lvc listed on the website for the controller. I am going to purchase lithiums once I get the money to buy a decent pack.
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
Every controller model and brand is different, so it's pretty hard to say what you need to do for any specific model. But there is info on ES about doing this:EXPERIMENTAL EV wrote:[ I dont mean to be rude but can someone please just tell me how to remove the lvc on the controller
There are quite a few threads on changing controller LVCs, if you look around the forum at threads with titles like that. The search function can be used to look in just topic titles and list just topics (but then you'll still need to read the threads that come up to see if they are relevant, and if the controllers they have are similar enough to your own for you to apply their fix to your controller, or adapt the information to help you figure out how).
If you found this advice helpful, supporting contributions are accepted here.
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
You have a system with three major components:
1) Battery
2) Controler (that may include a display unit)
3) Motor
If you have eliminated (at least to you satisfaction) the battery and the wiring connections being at fault then the controller is the next logical choice. While all the controllers have some common design elements there are many variations. Unless you can find someone that is intimately familiar with the particular model you have, it is unlikely that you will be able to get instruction for testing or modifying the more obscure features. I would recommend obtaining a known good (i.e. cheapest, least sophisticated, 48 volt controller available for purchase) controller to validate that the controller is the problem.
1) Battery
2) Controler (that may include a display unit)
3) Motor
If you have eliminated (at least to you satisfaction) the battery and the wiring connections being at fault then the controller is the next logical choice. While all the controllers have some common design elements there are many variations. Unless you can find someone that is intimately familiar with the particular model you have, it is unlikely that you will be able to get instruction for testing or modifying the more obscure features. I would recommend obtaining a known good (i.e. cheapest, least sophisticated, 48 volt controller available for purchase) controller to validate that the controller is the problem.
The more I learn the more obvious the immensity of my ignorance becomes.
Weight Wennie E-Bike https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 3#p1173723
Shaft Drive Grocery Getter https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =6&t=90718
...and thanks to Justin!
Weight Wennie E-Bike https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 3#p1173723
Shaft Drive Grocery Getter https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =6&t=90718
...and thanks to Justin!
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Re: Removing lvc on 48v controller.
I have (AFAIK) the same type of controller that you have and I have figured out how to bypass the LVC.
Just solder a 47k resistor in parallel with the 24k primary resistor. The LVC will now be around 28 volts instead of 40.
The resistor to solder to is highlighted. If your controller is slightly different, it's the resistor with one end connected to VCC.

Just solder a 47k resistor in parallel with the 24k primary resistor. The LVC will now be around 28 volts instead of 40.
The resistor to solder to is highlighted. If your controller is slightly different, it's the resistor with one end connected to VCC.

Find weakest component, upgrade it, repeat until satisfied. Rome was not built in a day.
When in doubt, get bigger MOSFETs / Batteries / Motors / Etc.
When in doubt, get bigger MOSFETs / Batteries / Motors / Etc.