urga wrote: ↑
Sep 17 2018 12:36pm
Try this now https://youtu.be/64tEv7lcBLk
So the rubber coating is a waste of time ? I'll defer to your greater experience here and try some fine grip tape
I took the bike out for a quick spin after work . I tightened the spring right up until the motor was constantly touching the tyre and it worked 80 % of the time
. There was a little drag from the motor but it wasn't an issue. I had strived to set this up so it was the initial kick from the motor that initiated contact with the tyre.It would seem that this initial kick isn't sufficient on this size of motor ? Is there a way to increase the initial startup input to overcome this ?
On another point,and I don't know if it's specific to my bike geometry,but I find I cannot remove the rear wheel with the drive in place.Obviously, I can just undo the 3 bolts to rotate the drive out of the way, but they would then need set up again. Could be an issue should I puncture.
I shoudn't imagine I'll need an extension bracket as it's probably the opposite that's required on this bike (Cannondale caad 10). Is ther an ideal setup ? ie should the axle and pivots points of the bracket line up to the rear wheel axle ?
I'll await your diagnosis if the video works
Thanks for all the help and advice!
Ok, a picture says a 1000 words. A few issues with the setup.
Firstly, you have fitted the upper main plate (plate that attaches to the bottom bracket) the wrong way around (you can see the two plates don't line up correctly). You need to flip it. this will move the motor back a little.
Next the main bracket needs to swing forward a little. This will allow the motor to swing up higher and will improve engagement.
You have a very short bottom bracket to tire measurement on your bike so to get a little more swing out of the motor swing arm, you might need to file a small notch in the swing arm to allow it to swing higher.
So with the swingarm at its highest point, adjust the main bracket on so that the motor makes good firm contact with the tire. With the motor under full engagement, you should be able the to rotate the motor by hand but with considerable effort.
Below is about the setup you need for that bike.
You will find once the drive is setup correctly and the gravity spring is taking at least the weight of the motor, there will be plenty of torque kick for engagement.
With regards to removing the wheel with the drive in place, just let some of the air out of the tire. If you have a puncture, re fit the wheel before pumping it up.
Let me know how that all goes. I think that should sort you out.