26x2 Tire advice

Bbbbrass

1 W
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Nov 25, 2022
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Location
Charleston, SC
Hey all, I've searched but the terms are too common to really find good results. I have a DIY commuter from an old steel 26 bike and an Amazon hub kit. I love it. I have gotten 3 flats from road hazards, and in my very infrastructure unfriendly area there isn't a good way to avoid encountering them. What tire/tube solution do you guys like that doesn't kill range, fits between 1.8-2.2x26 wheel, can go on rough/grassy surfaces, and handle large puddles? Bonus points if it isn't over $100... I'm fine with a different mix of front and rear, but I really want something that is armored like iron!

Thanks.
 
I use Michelin Protek Max inner tubes and Schwalbe Active Land Cruiser Plus tires, not had one puncture in past year since I installed them on ebike kit build and they drive nicely and won't break the bank.
 
If you aren't already, get some Slime (or whatever brand you prefer) in that tube. I think you'll be amazed at how somewthing that simple can be so effective at preventing flats....
 
I found them they're only $17.99 each that's dirt cheap..
I've got one on back and front, the local bike shop guy sold them to me (cannot remember price), along with the inner tubes mentioned.

I guess if he's selling them they must be fine...but they are at budget end I suppose and end of line means some good deals as you say.
 
but I really want something that is armored like iron!
What specific road hazards are causing your flats? there are diferent protections depending on the kind of failure.

For myself, the main thing I did to stop flats is to use the thickest tubes I can find whenever I need new ones, and I prefer to get ones by CST when I can (the rubber lasts longer than others, before cracking and failing especially at valve stems, in the hot dry weather we have here most of the time).

The greater the distance between the road and the air in your tires, the less likely something on the road gets a date with your air, and you get a walk of shame. ;)

So to increase that distance, I then take my old tubes, especially ones that failed at the stems instead of elsewhere, and cut anything left of the stem off, then slit them circumferentially on the inner bead (that would have sat against the rim center, where the valve stem is). Slide at least one of those over the actual tube that will hold air, with the spot for the valve stem on the "protection" tube lined up with the actual stem. If you really need it you can then also use plastic protection strips (slime brand, etc) between this protection tube liner and your tire, since the protection tube will help keep the strips from cutting thru your actaul tube over time.

If you don't have any old failed thick tubes, you can use several thinner ones this way. The idea is to make the rubber as thick as possible.

If you have old slick tires, you can even cut the beads off of one and put it inside another slightly larger tire, then the tube (assembly) into that. Because the tire casing does not stretch or compress like the tube, it's really hard to put tires the same size into each other, so this usually works with one smaller and one larger tire, by just a little bit.
 
Interesting! Thanks for the input. I deal with broken glass, metal wires, construction debris… it’s a lot of messy roads out here.
 
For those kinds of things, I'd recommend measuring the length of the worst-case stuff you have run across or expect to, and make sure there is more rubber between your air and the road than that. ;)

Protection strips like the slime or other brands can help deflect the pointy things to the side of the tube, but they need to be able to deform to do this--so they have to be close to the tube itself, like just one innertube rubber layer away from the tube itself at most. For instance, if you used the tire-in-tire method, and put the strip between the tires, they may clamp the strip so tightly that it cannot "slide out of the way" of the tip of the pointy thing, to start the deflection process, and in that event the pointy thing can stick into and thru the strip instead.

I discovered this originally while trying to prevent the "snake squiggle" problem--where the strip over time migrates into a sinewave-like pattern crisscrossing the tread area of the tire, migrating up the sidewalls and no longer protecting against tread punctures over the whole tire. I glued the strip to the tire's tread area, on the inside of the tire. Then installed the tube normally. Strip would still stop "bendable" things like wires shucked off of steelbelted tires and whatnot, but only because they would just bend and squish as I rode over them. Roofing nails, shards of glass, etc, would jam into the plastic and be pushed all the way thru it and into the tube as the tire rolls over them the rest of the way...and the longer nails, being held verticaly by the strip and tire, then *also* go thru the rim!

The tire-in-tire does a similar enough thing to the strips as the glue to have the same effect, when tire pressure is normal (really low pressure might let the strips work but I don't know how well, and the tire could get pretty hard to roll with all the rubber layers in it at low pressures).

If the strip is right up against the main tube that holds the air, it works best, as it can then bend a bit away from the incoming pointy thing and cause the pointy bit to slide left or right away from the tube (and out the sidewall instead, if it's long enough).

But...these strips are known for having edges that can cut or wear thru the tube and cause a flat themselves--not just a simple patchable puncture either, but a long cut or rip.

So...use a dead tube cut along it's inner circumference to cover your real tube, then put the strip just outside that, and then all the other rubber layers then the tire, and it should still be able to do it's job.
 
Schwalbe marathon plus - best I ever tried. Rear died after ~3k km (probably more), front is still running. Plus any puncture protection sealant (I use cheap from aliexpress) directly into inner tubes (by disassembling presta valve) - might not be easy especially if the sealant is thick. Never had a puncture so my own reply made me think if sealant will actually work with inner tubes (or it requires thicker materials like actual tires)...
 
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I agree with the Marathon Plus comment above and had one on the rear of a 1000w DD system for five years without a flat ( the caveat is that the mileage on the bike probably was less than 2,000). You might also look into what some downhill racers employ, a Cush Core or similar liner that permits a bike to run flat.
 
Marathon Plus not so good in the wet.
Kenda Kwick Drumlin is similarly armored, but has better traction wet or dry. I like the Kwick Drumlin Cargo version with 4-ply casing.
 
Living here in the desert, I used to get continious flats from goat's head thorns. Since going w/ Marathon Plus tires w/ Kenda extra thick tubes, no more flats.
One can feel them "wiggle" a bit on the thick tire and tube, but one gets used to it.
 
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