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Hard to say a particular moment, but the longer rides definitely one of the high marks. Bit by bit on day trips, I rode from El Paso TX to Santa Fe NM on the old pre interstate route. One day in the fall, riding along through tall wild sunflowers, there was an amazing number of butterflies...

Go with a direct drive rear wheel hub motor kit, not so much for its the best, but the best economical. 48v 1000w kit. Buy a good quality battery for it, if you go with a tool battery, then you need at least a larger mower battery, such as the ego or similar 5 ah pack. Expect to spend at...

Meritless case, but it will settle out of court cheaper than a jury trial. Seemed like operator mistake to me. Very sad it was fatal of course, but not the bikes fault. Different story if the fork actually broke and the wheel fell off. That has happened to a few bikes, usually not fatal. E bike...

worst ebike for sure. But best way to use a hoverboard I've seen. But then, nobody puts video of one being used properly on TV. I'd rate it right up there with the self propelled lawn mower combined with a wheelchair.

Try to run a thread die on it to cut same size threads on it first. Then if that does not work, I would file down the end of the axle that protrudes past the fork and torque arm, then use a die to re thread it to another size. So it might be the next size smaller would be an SAE thread, vs next...

There are always cheaper controllers out there, but at the power level you may want, they will cost a bit more than lower powered, 72v 40 amps ones. If your old controller is 72v 40 amps, (3000 watts) then there are controllers out there, such as on ebay, that will be fairly cheap. Look for...

15 mph is a good place to ride, if you want to make batteries last. On a good steep hill, that will be max power at 15 mph. Below 15 mph on flat even more efficient, less drag means more range. But up a good steep hill, most DD motors are wound so that 15 mph needs to be your target speed...

True enough, if he's pedaling that hard for 10 min, he'll keep a little geared motor with 350w turning fast enough to not melt. And, maybe he weighs 115 pounds, while I'm assuming 170-200 pounds. Once the grade gets steeper than 10%, the load in total weight gets to be the crucial number...

I'm still saying 1000-1200 w peak power is needed. At 20%, you are going to lose half to heat, so the 500-600w figure is exactly right. But if you put 500w in, lose half to heat, and have 250w, the motor is going to stall and melt on 20% grade. Furthermore, the motor will only pull that 1200w...

Your best bet in a hub motor will be a lower rpm wound motor of the "9c type" in 20" rim. But the place I know to get one is expensive. Best bet is a mid drive kit, but also more money than a cheap hub kit. Try for the cheapest "48v 1000w kit" you can find, in a 20 inch wheel. The smaller...

Storing them is not really the problem. Its when chargers and bms's go wrong while its charging that is the problem. It was while charging that my garage burned down. Don't be asleep like I was then. Outside, or really watch them while charging so you can do something before the fireball is the...

I'm no engineer, but basically the only reason I suggested 12 g wire was for durability, and compatibility with good connectors that don't cost a lot. Like 4 mm bullets or andersons, or many others. 8 g is overkill for that wattage controller, and the connectors for it cost a bit more. The...

Better choice for that bike may be a mid drive. Or a hub motor designed to be used with your dropouts. If your bikes dropouts are bolt on plates, then they could be replaced with ones you fabricate, which lengthen the rear arm a bit while spacing it in to 135 mm as well. The plate would...

For that length, and the controller size, 14g is fine. But in general, its still good to go with some high strand count silicone insulated 12g wire from the RC toy and drone suppliers. Change the connectors to better ones on the controller, using a good RC connector matched to fit the 12g...

Sounds like battery problem.

I won't touch an abandoned bike unless its a day or two till the trash pickup, and its on the curb. In my city, they pick up big stuff monthly. You can tell in other neighborhoods by the piles of stuff on the curb when its freecycle day.

Just like my new e go mower. 400 bucks for the mower, battery, and charger. So don't tell me it costs too much to give a battery a less stupid bms, and charger that actually interacts with it. But like the ford pinto, someplace there is a let them burn memo.

FWIW, when I crushed that bike helmet that saved my life, I was doing something very normal, but on a new type of bike. I got surprised by what happened. Ignorant, but not exactly stupid. It's the definition of accident. Other helmets I have used up, I was riding doing stupid shit and knew it...

Re cruiser type bikes. The reason I chose a cruiser for that longtail build was simply because it was steel. Yes, just a coaster brake, but welding a disc mount on the forks was easy, and so was adding disk mount to the rear, as well as towing mounts for a bob tail trailer. But yeah, many...

Hmm,,, so a bike helmet makes you inconspicuous when you are hauling ass? And they look at you like :shock: Bottom line, wear any helmet you will wear. It will protect you more than nothing. My worst crash was not at a lot of speed, but my head struck the corner of the curb. Easily fatal...

You seem gradually headed to where I ended up. Steel bike meant I could modify it, adding disc brakes, and make it 6" longer. Lengthening a cheap beach cruiser made it able to carry multiple large batteries. A larger hub motor made it able to tow loads up hills. The big motor is more...

I doubt he did anything wrong, like using the wrong type charger. Cheap bms's are ticking time bombs. When they fail, the charger can be perfect, yet overcharge a cell group starting the fire.

Since it will be a dual motor setup, why not get your regen off the back wheel, and use any 135 mm axle spacing rear geared motor for your front hub. Then you can lace it 2x. For a rear 20" motor, you would be able to do the same thing, if you can live without the regen. Coasting geared...

If the load is really not over 300 pounds, a longtail of some kind with 20" rear wheel should work fine with a 9 continent type 500w rated dd motor. Near its limitations, but not over it. This is the kind of motor common in a 48v 1000w kit. But hell yeah, any much heavier DD motor given 2000w...

No problems with running 2000w through a "1000w kit" type cheapo direct drive front hub. 30 mph on 52v, but perky! 52v 40 amps controllers can be dirt cheap too. It would only melt if you start towing trailers up mountains, or up the mountain and you weigh 300+ pounds.