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a.) Gently discharging using a resistor? b.) Or discharging by short circuit or severely overloaded? :mrgreen:

Why 10 ohms? It will dissipate more than 300w on a fully charged 14 cell battery. Are you in a rush to discharge? I would have picked a size that would bring the battery down to say 75% from 100% in a known time period. Like 24 hrs. You plug it in when you do some daily chore one day, then...

You will have some heat gain from the sun, and if there is some insulation in the box your inside temps will probably average much closer to 10c than 2c overnight, without any extra heating.

Yes, you can just buy a large power resistor for a few dollars on Ebay/Aliexpress/Amazon.

Disconnect the converter for testing. That's easy enough. Put the multimeter on and find a hill to test regen on. You don't know what's going on. Maybe you need a 200V tolerant converter. 😆

Have you determined that overvoltage is actual cause? I don't see evidence of that in this thread. Suspicions. Yes. But not evidence. Why not ride around for a little bit with a voltmeter that can detects and store voltage peaks?

Yes. And even if it didn't, based on your understanding of electricity, how long do you think you would have been able to run a 25k BTU heater on your battery?

Nothing that is affordable. If you had a 30HP gas engine and say 4 gallons of gasoline, then to match performance you need roughly a 22kW motor and a battery over 30kWh.

You will be sorely disappointed with your finished product. 100%. You are so deep into this without getting the basics right first. Your ATV had something like a 30HP gas engine. Your proposed electric drivetrain is not even close.

Google Dunning-Kruger effect while you are at it. :mrgreen:

I'm sure you are smart enough to know the difference between causation and correlation.

Don't start. :mrgreen: "Hacking features" is an artifact of the 90's, at best early 2000's. You could get a bootleg copy of any software or watch cable or satellite with bootleg receivers. All of that is long gone. Cars are no different.

I'm sure you've seen typos on the web before. Especially on English language Chinese run websites. Given that they have identical weight and outside dimensions, my bet is on there being no differences. Except for marketing purposes.

Well, that explains it. :mrgreen:

This is much more apt, from what it sounds like. ;) https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/low-cost-snowmobile-electric-conversion.119179/#post-1753050

The lawn mowers these batteries were designed for run at about 400-500 watts continuous until the battery depletes. Certainily not enough for the speed demons, but more than plenty for a regular e-bike that might need 100-200 watts of assistance.

It's only a 3 parallel cell pack. 13-15A is about right.

This is how a battery made by a company you can sue looks like.

Factory made batteries are made by robots with very expensive QC at every step. A safe battery is more about consistent techniques than a "safe" design. Here is a Ryobi BMS. This PCB is at least a generation more advanced and better made than any after-market BMS I saw.

The Ryobi batteries appear to have a diode on the output. So running them in parallel should be easier than it seems.

You can have a battery with a lot of safety features, and you can have a safe battery. Those are two different things. I prefer the latter, meaning I use a commercially available battery made for power tools and lawn equipment, by a brand that sold tens of millions of units of these batteries...

This is not how it works if customers have a lot of choices, not only from multiple domestic companies, but many globally. Why would they if it's something unpopular with the consumer? There is no collusion in the global auto industry that I'm aware of. Toyota already decided this is a bad...

Try a 36V power source. That should be equivalent to a 50% charge.

How many volts was it supplying?