iovaykind
10 kW
I'm planning on replacing FETs.. you first, and please document it :lol:
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
- Thread starter wesnewell
- Start date
It seems that this isn't regenerative braking. It's way too powerful and too linear. Also, I couldn't notice any voltage rise after pretty long stretch of downhill road. And it can definitely bring you to a dead stop, and hold you there, so I guess we're out of luck here.
Oh yes, while I was poking around the controller today I may have accidentally shorted something I shouldn't have, because now motor stutters at low revs and at certain throttle possition. It works just fine if you give it some, but at lower speeds (~5mph) and light touch on the throttle it stutters.
Oh yes, while I was poking around the controller today I may have accidentally shorted something I shouldn't have, because now motor stutters at low revs and at certain throttle possition. It works just fine if you give it some, but at lower speeds (~5mph) and light touch on the throttle it stutters.
iovaykind
10 kW
bobale are you using the new or old controllers?
iovaykind
10 kW
Has the old controller's regen been tested? I'm pretty sure it wasn't linear. Looks like the new ones are being downgraded 
After that test I've connected stock Infineon controller and tried out it's regen, and it starts really quick after you pull on e-brake, it's smooth and nice, while on Hua Tong the delay is almost unacceptable, and it comes with such a force that you can hear loud thud from the motor.
iovaykind
10 kW
I think we've found "wheel lock" and not regen. I'm hoping the old controllers regen is actually regen and not wheel lock.
wesnewell
100 GW
On the *older* controller, with PCB ca08 x8m06ad_p04.1, the X pad does NOT lock the wheel. And I can say that it does do regen after the test I just completed First test, rode the bike to top of block with very little downgrade. Battery settled at 75.5V. Pedaled and gave a little juice to help to about 12mph. Applied enough brake to engage regen. Meter reading went to 75.3V, then 75.4V, and when I released the brake voltage came back to 75.6V. Not satisfied with the results, I pedaled back up the block and started pedaling back down. At about 10mph, I again engaged the ebrake, and again voltage went down to 75.4V. In a lower gear I continued pedaling at about 7mph for another 50-100 yards. When I released the brakes this time, voltage came back to 75.7V. You can draw your own conclusions from this, but I'm pretty sure the regen is working. And I can feel when it stops at about 3mph because pedaling goes to normal without brake engaged. When I was using the brake-hi to engage the ebrake I can't remember if it locked the wheel, but it was a powerful braking action and voltage dropped a couple of volts with it engaged.
Right. Could you possibly trace where that M pad goes? I tried all labeled pads today, and didn't find anything apart from X, which locks the wheel. If you can trace it to CPU/ECU (whatever it's called), maybe I can find right pad to enable regen even on this new controller.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
I'd be obliged if somebody uploaded a photo displaying all the relevant pads and the V-Batt connectors etc.
I wil then order one of these controllers and try to change the fets and I will document that here.
I wil then order one of these controllers and try to change the fets and I will document that here.
iovaykind
10 kW
Where do we even find the shunts? Ill do it if you show how, wouldn't mind some more amps from this controller. Also if you could tell me how to find out its resistance rating that'd be great!
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
The reason for changing the FET's is because I want to run this controller with a 72v LiFePo4 pack on a 5303 in a 20" wheel.
that means those FET's simply won't last.
that means those FET's simply won't last.
wesnewell
100 GW
The shunts are the 3 bare wires behind the large cap that look like thick bare jumpers. I don't know their resistance, but I can tell you how to increase the amperage. It's really pretty simple and there's several ways to do it. I modded a 30A controller to ~42A simply by wrapping wire around them on one side for about 1/3rd the way to the other side and then soldering them all together. To go from 40A to ~50A, you'd only want to wrap them for 25% of the length of the shunts. I used 28 guage wire and make sure you wrap them all the way to the solder on the end you do it. Another way would be to remove one of the shunts and replace it with a jumper of less resistance. I hear coat hanger wire works pretty good, but I have no idea what the amperage result would be. As for measuring the shunt resistance, I doubt you have an ohm meter that would be anywhere near accurate enough to do it.iovaykind said:
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
bobale said:
Well I could but then I would be taking my bike apart and pulling at things. Maybe I will. I shall see.
iovaykind
10 kW
Maybe I can get in touch with the manufacturer to get the shunt values. In other news, anyone know if mixing fets is bad for the controller?
That would be a lot of bother, and not necesarry, but if you're willing to contact them, you can ask other specific informations about controller, like what all those pads do, and so on.iovaykind said:
I'm pretty sure weaker FETs will be under more stress in that situation, and probably will smoke after some time. Just logic thinking, maybe not correct.iovaykind said:
To find out if is a weak fets, famous fets, CyclonE fets , how they perform FETS.. i think we still need alot of testing. my huatong 48v 2000watts runs my cyclone motor stay so cool and i think this controller will certainly out last the motor life. FETs is better not to mix, this is told by my ebike Boss. every time they made the fets quality and things input are always different. i will certainly changed all the fets and keep me less worry. i ever tired to change a fets when i had blown off a cyclone build in controller... I changed one... But in the end.. it still blow. Only by real test , you know the real results outcome.
who knows i changed the fets is a very low quality ?
who knows i changed the fets is a very low quality ?
iovaykind
10 kW
I'm throwing 4110's into the controller when the new fets arrive. I honestly don't know if they're real 4110 especially coming from china, so I'm guessing they're fake. But heck, if they're fake they'll still at least get my controller working again. News of these new controllers aren't good but I'll have one here as a spare I guess.
iovaykind
10 kW
Some fets flew on my controller so yeah, they blew..
