Accurate continuous current rating for nickel strips
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Jackal21
10 mW
Very curious about the answer as I've posted the exact same question and charts back in september.
I was interested in the 0.15x10mm pure nickel strip that can handle 14-21 Amps acording to one chart and 6A to the other.
I was towards the 6A. But now after mounting a thermometer probe inside the battery pack on the nickel strip mentioned above, that connects the cells in parallel groups, and load it at 6-8A for 20 min, I saw no heating of the strip more than the cells, asuming that even the existing temp of the strip can come from the cells.
In fact these charts, like most charts, seem almost in vain without a standard given time and temperature.
That gows for nickel strip/wire/plug/motor/esc etc.
Was searching for QS8 antispark plugs for my battery and almost every seller gives a different ampherage from 60A to 180A. Why? Because if there isn't a standard time and temperature, everyone understands what they want by "hot" or "long/short time operation".
I was interested in the 0.15x10mm pure nickel strip that can handle 14-21 Amps acording to one chart and 6A to the other.
I was towards the 6A. But now after mounting a thermometer probe inside the battery pack on the nickel strip mentioned above, that connects the cells in parallel groups, and load it at 6-8A for 20 min, I saw no heating of the strip more than the cells, asuming that even the existing temp of the strip can come from the cells.
In fact these charts, like most charts, seem almost in vain without a standard given time and temperature.
That gows for nickel strip/wire/plug/motor/esc etc.
Was searching for QS8 antispark plugs for my battery and almost every seller gives a different ampherage from 60A to 180A. Why? Because if there isn't a standard time and temperature, everyone understands what they want by "hot" or "long/short time operation".
scianiac
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
- Messages
- 635
I think really the better way to look at it is to calculate the resistance and power loss at your average current, in the end this is probably what you care about, not the smallest you can get away with that won't overheat because even if something is not overheating it may still be getting a little warm and be wasting energy if it's the bottleneck. So a value that is an acceptable amount of power less is more useful.
Also I find it funny that sellers are listing those numbers for QS8s, I just saw a video the other day that somebody was putting something like 2000A through a QS8 and while yes the silicone wires self destructed and the connector came unsoldered due to the heat from the wire the connector looked good as new.
Also I find it funny that sellers are listing those numbers for QS8s, I just saw a video the other day that somebody was putting something like 2000A through a QS8 and while yes the silicone wires self destructed and the connector came unsoldered due to the heat from the wire the connector looked good as new.
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