I don't use brake cut outs on any of my bikes . I just make sure to have really good brakes.
Ah, i see you haven't had a fast electric vehicle go WOT on you yet
I don't use brake cut outs on any of my bikes . I just make sure to have really good brakes.
I do have a kill switch.Ah, i see you haven't had a fast electric vehicle go WOT on you yet
I'm running a "32" on my BBS02 and it's fine for off road since I don't ride over 20 mph or so on the rough trails in "the OC". The bonus is a better chainline with the new ring. BTW, to simplify the cassette and have a better chainline, I use 11-17-28 individual cogs spaced 8-speed.Being the newby, what is WOT? BTW, my BBSHD comes with 46t chainring. Since I ride mainly in the mountains with long steep hills, should I be thinking anout a a 42t chainring or even smaller? I am not so concerned about high end speed.
If you're running a hub plus the BBSHD the 46 t is fine if you need a little lower gear for some really steep hills I would change to a freewheel with the 34t 1st gear.Being the newby, what is WOT? BTW, my BBSHD comes with 46t chainring. Since I ride mainly in the mountains with long steep hills, should I be thinking anout a a 42t chainring or even smaller? I am not so concerned about high end speed.
I think that must mean "Wide Open Throttle" or throttle stuck wide open. Kill switch should do it.Being the newby, what is WOT? BTW, my BBSHD comes with 46t chainring. Since I ride mainly in the mountains with long steep hills, should I be thinking anout a a 42t chainring or even smaller? I am not so concerned about high end speed.
You can mount one of the brake cut off levers they give you if you didn't use them as a clutch, works as good or better than the shift sensor.The wait is over, I finally finished my upgrade, adding a BBSHD to my Factory made 1000w geared hub. My first impressions are absolutley wonderful. Only 2 rest drives so far going 15 and 22 miles, with nothing steeper than 5-6% over 1/4 mile. On one quarter mile streach of 6%, I had no trouble hitting 25mph, and I look forward to riding some longer and steeper hills this week. I don't have the gear shift sensor yet, and I don't really see much need for it. As a long time vintage bike rider, it is intuituve to just let off the power briefly when changing gears. On steep hills make sure you get into the proper gears earlier than later. So evrything was eiiasy to do, and I thank you for the experience and advice of this group. I am already thinking about my next project, converting my mountain/gravel bike to an eMTB.
The kit that I received didn't have the brake cutoff for Hydraulic brakes, so I ordered them and I plan to mount one on the left brake. I remember that you mentioned that in an earlier post. The hydraulic brakes that I have already have magnetic cutoffs on both brakes internally to the calipers for the hub. I think the one I ordered will mount right on top. I might use the other one to make a kill switch, which I already have next to the throttle for the hub. I have everything for the hub on the right side and everything for the mid on the left (lcd, throttle, and will be brake cutoff).You can mount one of the brake cut off levers they give you if you didn't use them as a clutch, works as good or better than the shift sensor.
I actually think this is quite a smart setup
For more hill climbing ability prob easier to just get a 60a controller on the BBSHD (the Luna style mod doubling amps)Sorry for being a party pooper, but to me it seems like completely unnecessary complication. Why add heavy motor to rear hub while mid drive will take you up any hill?
Yes, and thanks for the thoughts on a smart controller for both motors.I actually think this is quite a smart setup, a direct drive hub for the flats, and a mid drive for longer hills to use the gearing. I could imagine a factory built bike with this setup, to achieve higher speeds on the flat, without stressing the drivetrain, and efficiency climbing hills. Without bogging down. A smart controller that could run both the motors without needing separate systems would be cool, and shared torque sensing etc. Eg a 120nm torque sensing mid drive paired with a 1500w direct drive. That would be a great bike. Or could be.
Your bike sounds great too. Enjoy
With a hub mid-drive combo you will climb that hill at twice the speed of a single motor while putting less heat into either motor.Sorry for being a party pooper, but to me it seems like completely unnecessary complication. Why add heavy motor to rear hub while mid drive will take you up any hill?
This is exactly how I ride mine, use the direct drive hub to cruise at 25 to 32 mph hit a hill add in the mid drive. Half way through the ride need to switch batteries as the hub is doing most the work.I actually think this is quite a smart setup, a direct drive hub for the flats, and a mid drive for longer hills to use the gearing. I could imagine a factory built bike with this setup, to achieve higher speeds on the flat, without stressing the drivetrain, and efficiency climbing hills. Without bogging down. A smart controller that could run both the motors without needing separate systems would be cool, and shared torque sensing etc. Eg a 120nm torque sensing mid drive paired with a 1500w direct drive. That would be a great bike. Or could be.
Your bike sounds great too. Enjoy
Yes, I use the hub for just about 80% of my riding until I get to a hill where it starts to lug down, then I add the mid drive and cook on up the hill. Since I towed my son-in-law up the hill, we are now planning to add a a 1000w hub drive motor to the front wheel of his Intense Tazer.This is exactly how I ride mine, use the direct drive hub to cruise at 25 to 32 mph hit a hill add in the mid drive. Half way through the ride need to switch batteries as the hub is doing most the work.
Yes, I use the hub for just about 80% of my riding until I get to a hill where it starts to lug down, then I add the mid drive and cook on up the hill. Since I towed my son-in-law up the hill, we are now planning to add a a 1000w hub drive motor to the front wheel of his Intense Tazer.
Given that lots of scooters have dual motors, it would be nice to have someone with your experience sit with a vesc developer and develop a controller for a set up like yoursWhen it was all said and done, I had my right brake caliper (rear) setup for the power cutoff on the hub motor and the left brake setup for the power cutoff on the front brake. I also have a power on/off switch on the right side for the hub, and on the left side for the mid-drive. All work well. I like to use the on/off on the mid so I can shut it off easily without going to 0 on the power select switch while riding when I don't need the mid-drive boost. It is easy to shut of both when I am stopped for a break and don't want to accidentally hit the throttle.
Given that lots of scooters have dual motors, it would be nice to have someone with your experience sit with a vesc developer and develop a controller for a set up like yours