Bafang controller

[Ebike92119]

Hello,
I have a Nakato OX. It uses a bafang motor, I think it’s a G063. I’ve replaced the controller 3 times. I suspect because of the heat a capacitor pops. I’ve tried moving the controller so it gets more air, but not much difference. The controller is too small for 54 volts. I’d like to replace the controller with a generic controller, but Bafang has the phase wires wrapped into one wire, making it seem impossible to connect a generic controller. I’m curious if anyone has connected a generic controller to a bafang motor and how they did that. I could see cutting the insulation and soldering the phase wires to a different controller, but maybe there is bafang software that would stop the motor from working on a non bafang controller? Appreciate your thoughts. Thank you.

 

[calab]

Did you buy all the first 2 controllers from the same place, and where did you buy your last generic controller?
I recommend buying from sources that others on this forum have had experience with other then going into the dark forest alone into Ali-land (Alibaba, Aliexpress) and the others (ebay, amazon).

How hot does it get?
Physical size has no relation to the power handling. I'm not certain but neither is f.e.t. count (6 fet, 18fet) Some will go cheap generic fets, others will go high quality fets because price point matters. Physical size would help in cooling.
Do you mean there are 3 phase wires inside an outer insulation?

Does yours have a display? They must match, buy them in combos or gamble.

 

[Ebike92119]

The controllers I have used for my DIY ebike have been from Amazon. Those controllers are significantly larger which I think is part of the issue with the ox bike, the small size of the controller doesn’t dissipate heat very well. Yea, the phase wires and Hall effect wires are all inside the same insulation, making it very difficult to add another controller.

 

[richj8990]

The controllers I have used for my DIY ebike have been from Amazon. Those controllers are significantly larger which I think is part of the issue with the ox bike, the small size of the controller doesn’t dissipate heat very well. Yea, the phase wires and Hall effect wires are all inside the same insulation, making it very difficult to add another controller.

There is an adapter for the 9-pin phase + hall wires if you need it. Google Higo adapter.

One thing I've noticed lately is there are two levels of controllers (in general) for the motor connection: 9-pin and 3-pin. 9-pin usually goes up to 1500W / 30-35A and that's about it. Julet 916 3-pin goes above 1500W, but ironically it's supposed to not be great for higher amperage and the yet they put it on the 2000+W controllers anyway...go figure.

There is also a 9-pin male to 3 pin female adapter. The 3 pin (I have not personally used it) is actually 8-pin they say but the center has 3 large pins. Others on here can elaborate.

So basically you choose a controller that's for sure 1500W and it's probably peak 30A maybe 35A. I have one of those coming in the snail mail from China, and yes I mostly order from Amazon too. The other important thing is the battery connection. I like the yellow XT90 ones a lot more than the others that are more hit and miss. And you don't want a hit and miss battery connection.



This one if it matches your motor pins and battery connection is decent for the price if you are usually throttling and not doing PAS:
Throttle only --- 30A controller + SW900 display


If you are doing mostly PAS, I then prefer a KT one (something like this but with a better battery connection):
PAS - KT30A controller and LCD 3 display


It can be very hard to find out if a controller is square-wave or sine wave on these Amazon and lower websites, even if it's printed on the controller's label, so just try something similar to these and you always return them if it's not working.