best way to splice a 9 pin connection

[toebs]

Hi,

I have a hub motor (for xiaomi m365) that has a cable which does not end in a julet connector.
My controller has a 9 pin female julet connector. Due to various mechanical factors on the build, it would by far be the most practical if i could convert my motor to have a 9 pin male julet connector.
(I am aware that i have to get the phase, hall etc correct and know how to do this)

Since julet connectors cannot really be DIYed due to being molded, I will make an adapter cable that is 9pin male-julet to 'something'. I will cut the cable on the motor and make it 'something' also.

Basically make this female end of this cable from controller connect to this motor in a waterproof way.

But what would you suggest for something. Is it smartest to use 9 small waterproof wire terminals, or maybe som sort of 9 pin waterproff aviation plug (a bit bulky..)?

Hope it makes sense.
Hope you have suggestions also

 

[TommyCat]

Hi toebs,

Personally I’d be considering replacing the motor’s pigtail with the half of the extension cable that would mate to your controllers connector. Making all the connections inside the hub. Thus eliminating any external extra connector/connection.

Then there is always something like this…

Regards,
T.C.

 

[docw009]

I have spliced 9 pin mail ends onto several motors. I use shrinkwrap and solder, I use wire forms for the thicker phase wires. I used to take them out of 18G crimp connectors. Heat the center with solder iron and push the core out. You could crimp them, but it makes it too thick to go thru a 12 mm nut,

The smaller ones are just standard solder joints with shrink wrap. Shrink wrap the whole section after you've done all 9 wires. Do the splice in a section of the cable that you can fasten to a chainstay to minimize flex. I haven't seen one break yet. I didn't do it in the picture, but the idea is to offset the phase wire splices so they are even spaced in your splice area, Keeps the thickness down, The smaller wires are small, but it helps to offset them too. That's what they are showing in the post above mine,



You can save hours by getting one of these handy helping hands fixtures. I got mine from Harbor Fright, but they're easy to buy on Amazon too.

 

[fill]

Marine grade heat shrink is a good way to weatherproof the final seal/outer sheaf.

 

[Diggs]

Now you can get solder/shrink/waterproof all in one connector. Heat gun or butane lighter to activate the solder, sealant and shrink. They work pretty well. I never trust crimping for long term applications.

 

[Chalo]

I never trust crimping for long term applications.

Automotive and aviation industries: yes

You: no

I'm gonna say crimping is trustworthy. Maybe not your crimps, but generally.

 

[toebs]

Thanks for all the good advice. I think i have a solid plan now.
I will use the all in one connectpors from #5, probably get a helper from #4, offset the splice and wrap it all in a heatshrink.
While i agree with #1 that changing the tail in the motor is the most 100% solution, i prefer not to do this. 1) I need to do some testing before i hit the correct phase/hall wire config probably (there is no self-learn on the controller), for this testing i think it is easier if it is not in the motor i solder, 2) i think the other suggestions for splicing will work well enough, even thou they are less elegant

Thanks everybody

 

[rafalg]

don't make all the connections at the same length of the cable because you'll end up with a big bulge - distribute them across some distance

 

[crunchysteve]

Permanent: solder and heat shrink, seal the joint before heat shrinking with hot glue. Use a heat gun not a ligher.

Easily unspliced: screw terminal blocks of appropriate amperage.