Building the Blue Goose bent trike
- Thread starter BlueGoose
- Start date
Ah nuts, first post is always crp. Moving to builds....
What things do you need connectors and wires for? There could be less costly alternatives (parts or methods) to do the same job.
ccihon
10 W
I have converted my trike, similar to your TT, to e-assist - I started using a hub motor solution, and have since adopted mid-drive. Sounds like your are handy and resourceful - I used a commercially available battery mount from TerraCycle that works well. The wiring and connectors do require a little improvisation as the trikes are longer-framed and often the harnesses designed for conventional bikes require extensions/modifications.
What motor/controller are you planning to use? Where do you plan to add the battery mount? Are you looking for gentle assist or a big-power trike? If you look over the build threads you will find a variety of solutions.
What motor/controller are you planning to use? Where do you plan to add the battery mount? Are you looking for gentle assist or a big-power trike? If you look over the build threads you will find a variety of solutions.
offGridDownUnder
100 W
The wires and connectors are to connect batteries, motors, controllers, etc.
Can you say what choices you have made, or what possibilities you are considering? We can just follow along as you proceed, but there is a wealth of experience here, including the experience that "say, you can buy that ready made here".
My own build is in my signature. It works well now, and I think I've worked out the last change needed to the drive train - apart from gearing changes and maybe shimming the motor/belt over to maximize the possible rear tires. So far, I have been able to buy extension cables for my components.
I may finally have a reason to fabricate a cable as I'm thinking of adding reversing capability.
Can you say what choices you have made, or what possibilities you are considering? We can just follow along as you proceed, but there is a wealth of experience here, including the experience that "say, you can buy that ready made here".
My own build is in my signature. It works well now, and I think I've worked out the last change needed to the drive train - apart from gearing changes and maybe shimming the motor/belt over to maximize the possible rear tires. So far, I have been able to buy extension cables for my components.
I may finally have a reason to fabricate a cable as I'm thinking of adding reversing capability.
Thank you for the informative replies! This is the plan. The battery, motor, charger, and some connectors have been delivered.
Donor cycle: TerraTrike Cruiser recumbent trike 2002 (love it!)
Online consultation to aid selection, incredibly helpful: electrifybike.com
BB motor and integrated controller:
- CYC Photon
- Source: Electrifybike.com
Interface:
- CYCMotor DS103 + CYC app for Android phone
- Source: electrifybike.com
Auxiliaries:
- CYC magnetic brake cutoff
- 1 meter 10ga power extension with XT90-S connectors
- Source: electrifybike.com
Charger:
- Grin Satiator, cosmetically challenged for $100 discount, 48V nominal (also manages the 52v nominal)
- adapter cord to XT60M
- Source: ebikes.ca
Power supply system:
Battery:
- 52v LiFePO4 flat pack, 150mm x 150mm x 225mm (5.9 in x 5.9 in x 8.9 in)
- Source: Amazon, maker: BTRPower
Battery case for soft side battery:
- PA108 "Fat 50" ammo can, battery padding reused from shipping carton, Amazon
- Temporary: small tool bag for racktop use, harborfreight.com
Lighting:
- 24v to 48v headlight and taillight set w turn signals , generic Chinese, Amazon
- 12v 5 ft tall light whip, RGB, with chase light patterns, Amazon
Voltage step down:
- Generic Chinese 48v to 12v 20A
- Source: Amazon
Horn:
- 12v 2 tone automobile horns Source: harborfreight.com (blaaaat!)
- handlebar bell for rail trail (ding ding)
Unexpected costs
Wiring:
- an ever growing list of connectors and tools
- 2m 10 ga with male female XT90 connectors
- 5 pair XT60 connectors with pigtails
- 2 pair XT90S connectors with pigtails
- heat shrink butt connectors
- crimping pliers for heat shrink connectors
- 1 in heat shrink for XT90 and XT60 connectors
Still need wire extensions and specialty connectors for CYC
- brake sensors
- DS102 display
- speed sensor
-- edit --
Almost forgot. build frame to hold battery.
The Fat 50 ammo can is 12x9x7 inches, the usual recumbent universal mount cannot handle it on the TT Cruiser trike.
- 1" aluminum angle, 6 ft long
- aluminum brazing rods
- higher heat output nozzle for mapp gas
Donor cycle: TerraTrike Cruiser recumbent trike 2002 (love it!)
Online consultation to aid selection, incredibly helpful: electrifybike.com
BB motor and integrated controller:
- CYC Photon
- Source: Electrifybike.com
Interface:
- CYCMotor DS103 + CYC app for Android phone
- Source: electrifybike.com
Auxiliaries:
- CYC magnetic brake cutoff
- 1 meter 10ga power extension with XT90-S connectors
- Source: electrifybike.com
Charger:
- Grin Satiator, cosmetically challenged for $100 discount, 48V nominal (also manages the 52v nominal)
- adapter cord to XT60M
- Source: ebikes.ca
Power supply system:
Battery:
- 52v LiFePO4 flat pack, 150mm x 150mm x 225mm (5.9 in x 5.9 in x 8.9 in)
- Source: Amazon, maker: BTRPower
Battery case for soft side battery:
- PA108 "Fat 50" ammo can, battery padding reused from shipping carton, Amazon
- Temporary: small tool bag for racktop use, harborfreight.com
Lighting:
- 24v to 48v headlight and taillight set w turn signals , generic Chinese, Amazon
- 12v 5 ft tall light whip, RGB, with chase light patterns, Amazon
Voltage step down:
- Generic Chinese 48v to 12v 20A
- Source: Amazon
Horn:
- 12v 2 tone automobile horns Source: harborfreight.com (blaaaat!)
- handlebar bell for rail trail (ding ding)
Unexpected costs
Wiring:
- an ever growing list of connectors and tools
- 2m 10 ga with male female XT90 connectors
- 5 pair XT60 connectors with pigtails
- 2 pair XT90S connectors with pigtails
- heat shrink butt connectors
- crimping pliers for heat shrink connectors
- 1 in heat shrink for XT90 and XT60 connectors
Still need wire extensions and specialty connectors for CYC
- brake sensors
- DS102 display
- speed sensor
-- edit --
Almost forgot. build frame to hold battery.
The Fat 50 ammo can is 12x9x7 inches, the usual recumbent universal mount cannot handle it on the TT Cruiser trike.
- 1" aluminum angle, 6 ft long
- aluminum brazing rods
- higher heat output nozzle for mapp gas
Last edited:
AGS
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2023
- Messages
- 215
You may want to reconsider your horn. 12 volt horns draw a lot of current. You can get a 36 to 72 volt horn on Amazon that only draws a couple of hundred milliamperes.
Like this:
Like this:
Assembling the chainring
- used anti-seize compound before assembly ( Permatex Anti-seize Lubricant #80078 )
- torqued down using pins in the holes and a long bar.
Pins are 4mm, I used #10 screws
I used a long combination wrench. The loop prevents the bar from slipping off.
The chainring is fastened to the motor by screwing down the chainring cap. Both the chainring and cap are aluminum, is common for aluminum threads to gall and seize so I put a dab of anti seize on the threads before assembly, NOT grease. Antiseize has powdered metals in suspension to prevent galling. I used Permatex Anti-seize Lubricant #80078. I had a large jar on hand, you can get a small tube at auto stores or hardware stores which is more than enough for assembling the cap, axle, everything.
CYCmotor provides a poorly designed tool for torquing down the cap. You can’t measure torque and your hand can slip off the angled tool. I have bashed my knuckles too many times on cheap tools, no way was I going to depend on it.
I put pins in the holes and used a bar to torque down the cap. The hold are 4mm. I used #10 machine screws because they were on hand and fairly snug. The bar was a long combination wrench because the loop absolutely guaranteed the wrench would not slip off. (slip = bashed knuckles) I estimated the torque by feel.
I compared using their tool and the long bar. I torqued it down hard as possible with their short tool. Penciled a mark across the mating surfaces. Then I loosened and re-torqued with the long bar, and was able to move the chainring cap past the previous mark.
In my opinion the chainring cap is a poor design with 5 blind holes for tightening instead of 6 holes. If it has 6 holes it would be easy to make a better tool, just go across the diameter of the cap. But you can’t just add another hole. They are blind holes, and the inside of the cap has 5 little steps so the holes don’t go through. There is absolutely no reason to have individual steps instead of an entire ring around the inside. I think it’s to show off their machining and make things proprietary, and then they give you a poor tool because there are 5 holes.
I measured the bolt hole diameter to be 64.77 mm. I think it is 65mm allowing for errors. I measured between the hole outer diameters and inner diameters, and added the two. Done. Simple. If you have digital calipers (about $20)
- used anti-seize compound before assembly ( Permatex Anti-seize Lubricant #80078 )
- torqued down using pins in the holes and a long bar.
Pins are 4mm, I used #10 screws
I used a long combination wrench. The loop prevents the bar from slipping off.
The chainring is fastened to the motor by screwing down the chainring cap. Both the chainring and cap are aluminum, is common for aluminum threads to gall and seize so I put a dab of anti seize on the threads before assembly, NOT grease. Antiseize has powdered metals in suspension to prevent galling. I used Permatex Anti-seize Lubricant #80078. I had a large jar on hand, you can get a small tube at auto stores or hardware stores which is more than enough for assembling the cap, axle, everything.
CYCmotor provides a poorly designed tool for torquing down the cap. You can’t measure torque and your hand can slip off the angled tool. I have bashed my knuckles too many times on cheap tools, no way was I going to depend on it.
I put pins in the holes and used a bar to torque down the cap. The hold are 4mm. I used #10 machine screws because they were on hand and fairly snug. The bar was a long combination wrench because the loop absolutely guaranteed the wrench would not slip off. (slip = bashed knuckles) I estimated the torque by feel.
I compared using their tool and the long bar. I torqued it down hard as possible with their short tool. Penciled a mark across the mating surfaces. Then I loosened and re-torqued with the long bar, and was able to move the chainring cap past the previous mark.
In my opinion the chainring cap is a poor design with 5 blind holes for tightening instead of 6 holes. If it has 6 holes it would be easy to make a better tool, just go across the diameter of the cap. But you can’t just add another hole. They are blind holes, and the inside of the cap has 5 little steps so the holes don’t go through. There is absolutely no reason to have individual steps instead of an entire ring around the inside. I think it’s to show off their machining and make things proprietary, and then they give you a poor tool because there are 5 holes.
I measured the bolt hole diameter to be 64.77 mm. I think it is 65mm allowing for errors. I measured between the hole outer diameters and inner diameters, and added the two. Done. Simple. If you have digital calipers (about $20)
Last edited:
Looks like they're just sending you the cheapest possible version of an "adjustable angle grinder wrench".
If a better adjustable one or a non-adjustable one that already exists would fit, you could order one of those, or a similarly-designed type of tool (that would be easy to build) could be made.
If a better adjustable one or a non-adjustable one that already exists would fit, you could order one of those, or a similarly-designed type of tool (that would be easy to build) could be made.
Those would be useful! I considered purchasing an (inhales) Adjustable Gland Nut Wrench Spanner for Hydraulic Cylinders (whew). The ends of hydraulic cylinders have two indents for the pins. The wrench head has a 1/2 inch hole for a ratchet handle. If CYCMotor increased the width of the handles and punched a 3/8 inch square hole, that would solve the problem and allow you to use a torque wrench. It does not matter where you apply the torque, it does not need to be in the center of the wheel.
Impressions of my very first ebike ride with everything working:
HOLY SHIIII.... iii ... (doppler effect here) ... (fade) ... (coming back) ... iii...IIIITTTT !
i just gotta get everything tidied up with wire looms, fasten the battery to the frame instead of tying it onto the rear rack (could not wait), add lights, flags, and light whip for recumbent trike, and take it out on the road for real. This is gonna be fun.
HOLY SHIIII.... iii ... (doppler effect here) ... (fade) ... (coming back) ... iii...IIIITTTT !
i just gotta get everything tidied up with wire looms, fasten the battery to the frame instead of tying it onto the rear rack (could not wait), add lights, flags, and light whip for recumbent trike, and take it out on the road for real. This is gonna be fun.
FWIW, most build threads include pictures of things *as they are being built*, and details of what the build is intended to accomplish, and progress, etc. 
They're more informative and fun that way.
They're more informative and fun that way.
ccihon
10 W
Sounds kinda similar to my BBSHD trike build - I had used a Harbor Freight Toolbag then an ammo can for a pack battery I used - when it died I went with a basic Hailong downtube battery - expensive, but worthwhile I think, are the battery mounting options sold by Terracycle (T-Cycle) - aluminum, very adjustable, and allows the battery to be mounted not only "out of the way" but low to keep center of gravity low on the trike. I see others perching a heavy pack battery on a rear rack or even between their legs on the boom - neither is optimal
T-Cycle Configurable Battery Mount2.00"
Electric drives on bikes and trikes are great for transportation and for enabling anyone to get out and ride, but until now, most people have had to hodgepodge together a way to carry the battery. Batteries are big, dense and valuable, and you don't want to just stick them anywhere. A rear rack...
hostelshoppe.com
Pics as requested. In retrospect I agree with ccihon, a downtube battery or similar compact format would have been much easier, and I might do that in the future. For now, I have the bulky battery and I'm dealing with it. The side view shows the rather large metal box. I'm stalled thinking of ways to run the wires through, I ordered printed panel mount sockets for XT90 (output) and XT60 (charge) and I need to run through 12V (lights).
Front view, CYC photon rests against the derailleur mast, display is on the mast, down by the pedals. The massive battery is on the seat while I finalize the wiring and battery box. There is not much room on the handlebars, just enough to grip and work the brakes. the thumb throttle is on the left side at the very top of the bar. I dunno, I might get an extension T for the bar end to mount the display and throttle.
Front view, CYC photon rests against the derailleur mast, display is on the mast, down by the pedals. The massive battery is on the seat while I finalize the wiring and battery box. There is not much room on the handlebars, just enough to grip and work the brakes. the thumb throttle is on the left side at the very top of the bar. I dunno, I might get an extension T for the bar end to mount the display and throttle.
ccihon
10 W
Looks like you will have it going soon. I don't knoew much about the Photon - is it basically a 1000 watt unit? It does appear that compared to my BBSHD, the chainline can be made more normal, though on a trike it is less of an ussie. Some pics of my build might give you ideas. I would recommend:
Strong brakes
Tough cassette and idler
Shift sensor along with careful shifting
Clipless pedals
Some photos will also show how I dealt with the throttle via a shifter add-on, and also the display. This was when I still had the pack battery in the tool bag. I have since also gone to fatter Big Ben tires and added a steering damper. You want a smooth stable ride at speed. I had a much older Terratrike before this one and found it quite twitchy, though I know the recent models are much improved.
endless-sphere.com
Strong brakes
Tough cassette and idler
Shift sensor along with careful shifting
Clipless pedals
Some photos will also show how I dealt with the throttle via a shifter add-on, and also the display. This was when I still had the pack battery in the tool bag. I have since also gone to fatter Big Ben tires and added a steering damper. You want a smooth stable ride at speed. I had a much older Terratrike before this one and found it quite twitchy, though I know the recent models are much improved.
Hub to Mid conversion for a trike - talk me out of it.
by neptronix » Aug 13 2021 1:50pm Zero, i get your point about small wheels being a different story on a full recumbent versus my semi recumbents. I guess my recommendations assume you care about comfort and have full suspension already. And aren't lying on the back wheel. Suspension makes a...
endless-sphere.com
