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Dual battery converter / discharger (with energy recovery) and how it works

The first measurement results for the converter with energy recovery are now in:
The 40-amp variant and two ammeters with an accuracy of 0.2 % were used for this test. To simulate real-world conditions, my stand-up escooter (10+15 ah battery) was driven up a road with a gradient of approximately 15 % at about 12 mph (average power output: 1000 watts) and down at about 24 mph.
The voltage drop appears to be 0.15 V, but both batteries are discharged simultaneously at the same voltage (partial currents are present) and are also charged simultaneously during regeneration.
This confirms the seller's description from post #8, but not the misleading circuit diagrams. Photos and further tests with tracked data will follow next week.
 
> The voltage drop appears to be 0.15 V

If I really couldn't parallel the packs at similar voltage, I think I'd rather use an ideal diode in front of each pack and my regen clamp than that thing for a third less heat at this point:
It incorporates a high-performance ideal diode circuit to allow current to flow to downstream ODrives and devices
...
Forward Voltage Drop Under 55mV up to 53A I fwd

I have it attached to a pair of power resistors in parallel since I start my commute downhill:

But maybe you could hook the output up to a pack behind the ideal diode if your controller allows you to set the max regen current like mine does. Typically the resistance determines the max current, which has to be kept under a certain maximum the components can handle, but a pack has much smaller internal resistance. So you'd need an alternate way to control current.

> both batteries are discharged simultaneously at the same voltage

Could just be flip flopping really fast between the packs. I still wouldn't trust it to set the controller max discharge to higher than any single pack. I do carry a phone with the right adapter to reprogram my controller's max discharge on the go anyway, though. So technically it just causes an unexpected stop event for me, not a pedal home event if it draws too much and causes a pack's BMS to shut off output.
 
> The voltage drop appears to be 0.15 V

If I really couldn't parallel the packs at similar voltage, I think I'd rather use an ideal diode in front of each pack and my regen clamp than that thing for a third less heat at this point:

...


I have it attached to a pair of power resistors in parallel since I start my commute downhill:

But maybe you could hook the output up to a pack behind the ideal diode if your controller allows you to set the max regen current like mine does. Typically the resistance determines the max current, which has to be kept under a certain maximum the components can handle, but a pack has much smaller internal resistance. So you'd need an alternate way to control current.

> both batteries are discharged simultaneously at the same voltage

Could just be flip flopping really fast between the packs. I still wouldn't trust it to set the controller max discharge to higher than any single pack. I do carry a phone with the right adapter to reprogram my controller's max discharge on the go anyway, though. So technically it just causes an unexpected stop event for me, not a pedal home event if it draws too much and causes a pack's BMS to shut off output.
No and yes, the converter works as described in post #8: input of about 10 A from the 15 Ah battery (right ammeter) and input of about 10 A from the 10 Ah battery (left ammeter).
A flip-flop switch would alternately display the total current of about 20 A on one measuring device - which is not the case.
The readings were also recorded at 3-second intervals and at no point show any sudden changes.
 

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Further measurement results:
A 60-amp variant was used for this test. All other conditions as stated in post #51.
Again, the voltage drop was about 0.15 V (first picture below - ammeter on the left: in port/battery, ammeter on the right: out port/controller): both batteries are discharged simultaneously at the same voltage and are also charged simultaneously during 'hard' regenerative braking (second picture below).
 

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Further measurement results:
A 60-amp variant was used for this test. All other conditions as stated in post #51.
Again, the voltage drop was about 0.15 V (first picture below - ammeter on the left: in port/battery, ammeter on the right: out port/controller): both batteries are discharged simultaneously at the same voltage and are also charged simultaneously during 'hard' regenerative braking (second picture below).
Good info. It would be interesting to see what happens, if you discharge one battery by a couple volts, then reconnect the second battery, and see what the ‘hard’ regen readings look like.
 
I don't think an ammeter will tell you if the mosfets are switching between the packs quickly or actually both on and conducting at once when voltages are similar. Switching could be happening on the order of milliseconds, the ammeter would be giving you an average over a longer time period.

So still not really evidence you could set the max direct draw of the controller to double the max discharge current of a single pack. Even if you could, since the original stated purpose is to handle cases where the batteries are connected at different voltage safely, that's a case where it is going to be using only one pack as well.

Personally, one of my packs has much lower internal resistance than the other, despite being less capacity, so whenever I let up on the throttle there's also a voltage imbalance since that pack discharges preferentially.
 
I don't think an ammeter will tell you if the mosfets are switching between the packs quickly or actually both on and conducting at once when voltages are similar. Switching could be happening on the order of milliseconds, the ammeter would be giving you an average over a longer time period.

So still not really evidence you could set the max direct draw of the controller to double the max discharge current of a single pack. Even if you could, since the original stated purpose is to handle cases where the batteries are connected at different voltage safely, that's a case where it is going to be using only one pack as well.

Personally, one of my packs has much lower internal resistance than the other, despite being less capacity, so whenever I let up on the throttle there's also a voltage imbalance since that pack discharges preferentially.
Anyone who doubts the measurements is welcome to refute them using a 'suitable' measuring device ... anything else would be too easy of an exercise ;)
 
Just food for thought. I've been running two packs wired direct in parallel for 4 years now. (14s5p and 14s6p 18650 cells same type but different ages). Both packs have a 2-wire BMS and spend the season always mated together for riding and charging (usually to 80-90%). I separate them in the winter for capacity testing and top balancing and make sure their voltages are within a couple tenths when I put them back together in the spring. Having ~34 ah gets rid of range anxiety and lets me explore all day.
 
Anyone who doubts the measurements is welcome to refute them using a 'suitable' measuring device ... anything else would be too easy of an exercise ;)
I haven’t seen anyone doubt your measurements. What’s unknown is how far we can extrapolate your results to other pack setups (capacity, IR, temperature, load controller/ideal diode, etc.). All data points are useful though. 😉
 
I can think of some tests to prove it, and worst case I'd just open it up and dissolve the potting material to see what's actually inside, but there's just no point in buying one given that the measurements done so far show a large voltage drop. It seems to be using schottky diodes where ideal diodes could be used. Maybe it has the advertised circuit diagram duplicated on every pack, for example.

I have enough ideal diodes and other mosfet based stuff laying around that I can easily slap something together that does the same thing for less voltage drop and heat generation, so just no point in obtaining a test sample.
 
To report truthfully on how the converter works, having a test unit on hand is the best option. Other discussions might certainly make this thread longer, but they would not lead to a serious understanding of this device.

While searching online, I came across the following promising schematic diagram (source: minshine.cn):

1777929317523.png

There also seems to be a temporary parallel connection here. What do you think - would that solve the layout issue?
 
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There's definitely FET controller chips that will share the load when voltages are similar:

FETs all have a body diode inside, but will conduct current both directions when powered. So they can even be used for controlling the recovery current as well. More expensive, though.

Probably the point where the manufacturer said YOLO and slapped in the cheap diodes instead. Nothing really wrong with that as long as you keep the amps low and have good heat dissipation setup:
LTC4371-35628.png
 
If I'm not mistaken, you'll find “one” manufacturer of the dual battery converter (model name: Double Battery Balance Discharger - labeling: DBBxx) at the following link:


1778277080247.png

The converters/dischargers I use are:
DBB6020 Double Battery Pack Balance Discharger (max. 20 A)
DBB6040 Double Battery Pack Balance Discharger (max. 40 A)
DBB6060 Double Battery Pack Balance Discharger (max. 60 A)

All converters/dischargers from this manufacturer are therefore equipped exclusively with MOSFETs and, contrary to popular belief, support parallel operation and energy recovery.
 
All converters/dischargers from this manufacturer are therefore equipped exclusively with MOSFETs and, contrary to popular belief, support parallel operation and energy recovery.
I didn’t see any mention of energy recovery as a feature (on their web pages or in the user manual). Do you have a link to the page that mentions that?
 
Well, the question can be answered “straightforwardly” in practice with post #54 and theoretically with post #62:
Yes, the converter / discharger (from Minshine) can feed power back into the "grid" (Sorry for this translation error: It should say “battery”).
However, anyone can also get a direct and 'reliable' answer to this question by emailing support@minshine.cn ;)
 
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Well, the question can be answered “straightforwardly” in practice with post #54 and theoretically with post #62:
Yes, the converter / discharger (from Minshine) can feed power back into the grid.
It might not be as “straightforwardly” as you suggest. As far as I can tell, there is no reference to feeding power back into the grid in those two posts. And I’m sure you wouldn’t ask us to guess or assume that this feature existed.

Post #54 only refers to pack regen energy recovery, nothing to do with the grid.

Post #62 only refers to allowing regen current back into the pack by some existing load controller chip. Not grid energy recovery.

Unless your statement that this unit can “feed power back into the grid” was an error? You meant to say it can handle regen current/power for energy recovery via pack recharging instead? 🤔

However, anyone can also get a direct and 'reliable' answer to this question by emailing support@minshine.cn ;)
I felt that a ‘reliable’ source for your statement would be you. 😉
 
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I felt that a ‘reliable’ source for your statement would be you. 😉
Since none of us will be responsible for the content of the Minshine website, everyone is free to request a sample to get an independent impression of the converter/discharger ;)
 
Since none of us will be responsible for the content of the Minshine website, everyone is free to request a sample to get an independent impression of the converter/discharger ;)
Ahhh…no surprise, that statement.
Oh well, I’m glad you posted a video of it recovering energy the way we’d all normally expect it would anyway! 👍🤙
 
Actually, it's just 'one' posted multi shot ;)

But anyway, in summary, here's what I think can be said about the converter/discharger (from Minshine):

+ Parallel connection of the batteries at the same voltage (gentle discharge)
+ Uniform, parallel current feedback at the same voltage
+ Controlled voltage equalization of the batteries when voltages are unequal (passive), discharging the battery with the higher voltage until voltage is equalized (active)
+ Optionally available with a charging port

- General voltage drop of approx. 0.15 V under a load of approx. 1000 W (48 V circuit)
- Placement: the 60 A and higher variants require correspondingly more storage space
- Price compared to a Y-connection

Also, I can recommend connecting the batteries at nearly the same voltage for a longer lifespan (ideal load/current sharing).
 
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Neat. I'll order a DBB* battery combiner and test it out. Should be pretty easy to wire a charger to the output and two low batteries of different voltage to the input. Then test and make sure the higher battery doesn't charge the lower with a simple voltage check at the lower battery. Then power on the charger and check and make sure the voltage from the charger is showing up at the battery terminals.

If it does, regenerative braking and controllers that need a direct connection to a battery to feed back surges to should be supported.

As long as FETs are being used and not diodes, voltage drop and wasted watts and heat generated should be low.

Supporting both a charge port and regenerative braking tends to be rare. Even the company that makes the original combiner circuit this thread is about doesn't offer regenerative braking support in their charge port model:

I had been contemplating upgrading my ideal diodes to these parallel arrays for even less voltage drop:

Or just building my own contactor based solution. Contactors have no voltage drop and are bidirectional, but need some low voltage power to work (electromagnetic coil to keep a switch closed, etc.). Feels like it would be pretty easy to use a voltage comparator like:

Then wire it like:
Battery A positive -> resistor A -> voltage comparator Vin pad
Battery B positive -> resistor B -> voltage comparator Vin pad
Voltage comparator out -> Contactor on/off pad
Battery A -> Contactor normally closed pad
Battery B -> Contactor normally open pad
Contactor out pad -> controller

Feels like there'd always be a battery directly available to the controller for regen that way, but one battery would never charge the other.

Previously I bought both a two battery port and a three battery port plus charging port MOSFET based battery combiner box off AliExpress over the years. Neither supported passing regenerative current back to the packs. Kills my baserunner if I go fast downhill with them too since no where for power surges to go.

Practically, this is because these devices typically just use an IC without paying for the copyright for it, and the IC chosen usually prevents reverse current intentionally to protect power supplies. E.g.:
Description
Positive High Voltage
Ideal Diode-OR with Input Supply
and Fuse Monitors

Features
n Replaces Power Schottky Diodes
n Controls N-Channel MOSFETs
n 0.3µs Turn-Off Time Limits Peak Fault Current
n Wide Operating Voltage Range: 9V to 80V
n Smooth Switchover without Oscillation
n No Reverse DC Current

I suppose because MOSFETs need to be powered to work and they don't add the circuitry to power them when the voltage at the output is higher than the voltage from either pack, like happens in a regenerative braking situation.

Conceptually, though, it also takes some extra components to determine if battery A is seeing a higher voltage than its state of charge because A) battery B is higher voltage and driving the load, a condition that requires blocking that incoming voltage to battery A to prevent the batteries from charging each other, or B) the controller is performing regen and trying to charge it, something we want to allow. Both manifest as higher voltage at the load.

You can see in the simplest possible regen dump circuit that needs to detect and redirect incoming current from the controller there's, surprise surprise, a diode just like the original circuit diagram in this thread:
Screenshot_20260509-091114.png

So you sort of need to do that, but the opposite. Allow the regen current, but block the batteries from charging each other.

You could isolate the currents with a bunch of ideal diodes into separate charge and discharge buses, or put an ideal diode OR between the batteries and the regen dump so it is only comparing the highest voltage battery vs. the controller output, but that increases cost and complexity again.
 
As mentioned in post #25, for testing purposes, only a dual battery converter with energy recovery (from AliExpress) can be used. Otherwise, we would be comparing apples to oranges.
 
I don't think you've proven a usable dual battery converter with energy recovery exists yet. There's just the one you tested with unreasonably high voltage drop/wasted watts/heat generation. So I don't think buying fully potted, super cheap, black boxes with mystery insides is going to work out well.

It's quite easy to make, though. Step 1: buy one of the LTC4355/59/70 ideal diode OR controller IC reference/demo module boards like:

And hook up your two batteries and controller. Now discharge is handled.

Step 2: buy two FET driver boards like:

Then just wire each of these up, one each between the controller and a battery to control the regen current. They support both a high signal for on or a low signal for on. So you can wire them to the status pins of the LTC IC such that they turn on when it is reporting it isn't using either battery (low from both/neither driving high):
Screenshot_20260513-043922.png

Done. Just takes 3 parts. One ideal diode OR controller to run the motor with the highest voltage battery. Then a pair of FETs and drivers to send the regen current to the batteries whenever the controller voltage is higher than either battery.

Will have 1/10th the wasted watts and heat generation of the mystery black box with the schottky diode in it you tested. And you can make that 1/100th just by adding more FETs in parallel.

Easy to simplify too since regen energy is so low we don't actually care which battery it goes to in general and discharging from the highest battery will use it up soon anyway. So you actually only need one FET driver board.
 
For a change, here are a few more real facts about the ‘black box’:

My first dual battery converter/discharger with energy recovery (DBB6020) was completely opened up for this purpose and the gray silicone filler was removed.

The circuit board is equipped with 4 MOSFETs from the company WXDH, model number DHE3205A.
You can find the datasheet here:

With the specified turn-on resistance, the voltage drop across 2 parallel, back-to-back MOSFET pairs (normal operation as bidirectional switch) can now also be calculated theoretically.
 
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For a change, here are a few more real facts about the ‘black box’:

My first dual battery converter/discharger with energy recovery (DBB6020) was completely opened up for this purpose and the gray silicone filler was removed.

The circuit board is equipped with 4 MOSFETs from the company WXDH, model number DHE3205A.
You can find the datasheet here:

With the specified turn-on resistance, the voltage drop across 2 MOSFETs (normal operation) can now also be calculated theoretically.
I'd still be interested in how the regen currents look when starting with one of the packs at a lower charge level (3 or 4 volts), per my earlier post. I think that could provide some insights as well. With pics like in your post #54.
 
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