I can conclusively report the performance of the 50s cells is impressive. My new homemade 35ah pack is way better that my previous Chinese factory 35ah pack. Not only does it have about half the sag, it also has a lot better range, even though on paper both battery's should be about the same.
Knowing what I know now, I'll probably never buy another factory battery. That being said, I just bought one of these in 72v that's made from 50e cells, but only because I want to see how they made it so I can build another one using my BGX battery shell.
Thanks for posting this and waking up the thread. You really made that a very sweet and restored bike. Look forward to seeing more of it the pages to come.It's been awhile but just wanted to post up that I found B-52 #273 at a yard sale in SF two weeks ago. I was told by the sister of the original owner that he (Steven), really loved that bike but had passed away unfortunately while at an amusement park. I promised I would honor her brothers memory and return the bike to running condition.
This being the third B-52 I've purchased used, I knew it was probably worse than it appeared and boy was I right. I have become a bit of a Stealth parts hoarder so I promised myself that this was a good way of getting rid of (or consolidating) all my spare parts I have accumulated over the years.I know the Suron stuff is all the rage right now with wheelie kids, but I still prefer the silence, performance the ability to ghost pedal that I get with a Bomber. Not to mention, actual plated Stealth Bombers are some of the rarest mass produced ebikes in existence.
-The battery was actually so swollen it took multiple grown men to get it removed from the frame and when placed on the charger it immediately caused a "thermal event" in the driveway so into the dunk tank the pack went, for a week. I happened to have 100 Molicel P45B 21700 (from a group buy) and an ANT BMS laying around so I built a 21s X 5P pack.
-The controller was some kind of knock off Sabvaton that never actually worked, so I ripped it out (along with the cycle analyst) threw on an (OG Pre Covid) Nucular 12f controller. What a powerful little controller that's not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes. I had to do 5 years of Firmware updates on the controller and the screen all via Micro USB
-Even just pedaling the bike felt really out of balance as was crazy amounts of rear axle play due to bad bearings and both inter tubes had Fix a Flat, which is messy stuff. Replaced bearings with spare SK 6005 and 6004 bearings that I had laying around. Also changed the stater with a spare I had as one hall sensor wasn't registering at all and the other two where showing 0-2v (should be 5vdc), when a magnet was passed over them. Also found an intermittent short on one of the phase wires where somebody had done a shoddy repair. Halls will be here in a week but I wanted to ride so in went the spare stator in a Moto wheel and extend soldiered on the appropriate XT150 and crimped on connections to match the Nucular 12f.
-Swapped in a set of 3" riser bars / changed the grips and put new brake pads on front and back.
-The Rock Shocks are pretty much blown out and need to be replaced, my other B-52 has a set of $1500 Fox 40 air shocks on it but I just cant bring myself to spend more on a pair of shocks than have in the entire bike. Maybe I'll ask for them for Christmas?
After nights of "tuning rides" where sometimes I had to push or peddle home, I decided to throw a full charge on the new battery and crank up the phase amps and the Flux weakening to stretch her legs a bit. Knowing these are older and not super efficient Crystalyte hubs I wanted to see how much heat I'd be generating (in the motor, battery and controller) over a few miles of consistent 70-100% throttle and regen. I was able to hit 62 mph on the GPS, tucked and the motor was pretty warm to the touch the controller was far cooler than the Sabvaton on my other Bomber that is 2-3x the size of the 12f.
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Oh darn, it was you that ended up with it! Haha I was driving out to go pick it up when the guy texted me back to let me know it was already sold. Glad at least someone on here got the good dealIt's been awhile but just wanted to post up that I found B-52 #273 at a yard sale in SF two weeks ago. I was told by the sister of the original owner that he (Steven), really loved that bike but had passed away unfortunately while at an amusement park. I promised I would honor her brothers memory and return the bike to running condition.
This being the third B-52 I've purchased used, I knew it was probably worse than it appeared and boy was I right. I have become a bit of a Stealth parts hoarder so I promised myself that this was a good way of getting rid of (or consolidating) all my spare parts I have accumulated over the years.
-The battery was actually so swollen it took multiple grown men to get it removed from the frame and when placed on the charger it immediately caused a "thermal event" in the driveway so into the dunk tank the pack went, for a week. I happened to have 100 Molicel P45B 21700 (from a group buy) and an ANT BMS laying around so I built a 21s X 5P pack.
-The controller was some kind of knock off Sabvaton that never actually worked, so I ripped it out (along with the cycle analyst) threw on an (OG Pre Covid) Nucular 12f controller. What a powerful little controller that's not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes. I had to do 5 years of Firmware updates on the controller and the screen all via Micro USB
-Even just pedaling the bike felt really out of balance as was crazy amounts of rear axle play due to bad bearings and both inter tubes had Fix a Flat, which is messy stuff. Replaced bearings with spare SK 6005 and 6004 bearings that I had laying around. Also changed the stater with a spare I had as one hall sensor wasn't registering at all and the other two where showing 0-2v (should be 5vdc), when a magnet was passed over them. Also found an intermittent short on one of the phase wires where somebody had done a shoddy repair. Halls will be here in a week but I wanted to ride so in went the spare stator in a Moto wheel and extend soldiered on the appropriate XT150 and crimped on connections to match the Nucular 12f.
-Swapped in a set of 3" riser bars / changed the grips and put new brake pads on front and back.
-The Rock Shocks are pretty much blown out and need to be replaced, my other B-52 has a set of $1500 Fox 40 air shocks on it but I just cant bring myself to spend more on a pair of shocks than have in the entire bike. Maybe I'll ask for them for Christmas?
After nights of "tuning rides" where sometimes I had to push or peddle home, I decided to throw a full charge on the new battery and crank up the phase amps and the Flux weakening to stretch her legs a bit. Knowing these are older and not super efficient Crystalyte hubs I wanted to see how much heat I'd be generating (in the motor, battery and controller) over a few miles of consistent 70-100% throttle and regen. I was able to hit 62 mph on the GPS, tucked and the motor was pretty warm to the touch the controller was far cooler than the Sabvaton on my other Bomber that is 2-3x the size of the 12f.
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, tricky situations as the battery isn't up for it.
Looks good, definitely a great warranty voiding mod CD suggested. How does that pair up with the 5555?Winter and Summer wheels
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24" #5555 off-road tyre
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Evidently a Gen 1 Bomber motor.
Turns out it would be on a 26" rim ~55kph on 14s which happens to be ~55mph on 20s and that happens to be ~80kph which coincidentally corresponds to the #5580 on the Crystalyte website.
The street wheel is the original Gen 2 fighter motor and it's in a 27.5" rim.
Apparently a #5565 which happens to be ~65kph on 14s which is ~65mph on 20s which is also ~100kph which coincidentally corresponds to the #55100 on the Crystalyte site.
There is no #5555 or #5565 on the Crystalyte site.
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Bumped the shunts.
Unable to measure actual at the moment so just doing the maths with the info I have.
If it was the claimed 60A it is now 85A worked out using the error in the Wh reading.
Overshot a bit with the mod
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I can only use the increase for short bursts to get out of, or get into
All in all pretty happy with the large increase in tractable torque off-road and the street wheel is more fun after the shunt mod alone.
Yep there are compromises and costs.
2 bikes in 1
It seems great. It's warm and dry here now and the bush is not very appealing so I haven't given it a real shake down. Only some grassy parks in the suburbs.
If you have a Gen1 purchased 3 years ago, its actually way older than 3 years. Depending on who you ask, the original Gen 1 built in 2008 had huge frames and designed for LIFPO4 Headway Cells. Then around the end of 2010 early 2011, the frame sizes were decreased and Stealth Switch over to a LIPO4 24S pouch cell. That model has been referred to as 1st gen but its really the 2nd gen though. So whether you have that model, or the actual 1stt Gen headway cell model. If you are running the original battery, you need a new one.
review 
endless-sphere.com
I was hopeful to get back on a Stealth in 2023... then again in 2024... maybe 2025 is the year of the Overlander?Stealth has listed the new Overlander on IndieGogo
Stealth looks to turn heads with high-style Overlander urban ebike
Australia's bush-ready electric bike maker Stealth has launched a slick-lookin' urban adventurer called the Overlander on Indiegogo, which boasts a mid-drive motor, a 60-mile battery, front suspension and a funky S-logo headlight.newatlas.com
