Great deal on batteries

To "load test" the batteries, I plan on wiring both packs in series to make a 72 v pack, run it on my scooter while monitoring voltage sag and current draw with a clamp on ammeter.
 
Those are good prices if the batteries meet claimed specs. The website does not have option to sell to USA.

Yes, like I said, they sell mainly in EU. They used to have stock in UK as well, but left after brexit.


There is an option to buy from US warehouse, but all batteries out of stock at the moment. Might be worth to keep checking if you are interested or send them an email.
 
If I were you I’d swap the battery (balance externally) and swap the controller also to a high voltage flipsky aluminum 75100 or 75200 (depending on ur motor kv and if you could even use the extra amps). Get faster than 30mph and I’m guessing more torque and you could do adjustments
Not happening. It's fast enough for me as is. It's also faster than my other 2 ebikes.
 
I have three chargers that I use.
1. 72v 5amp Grin adjustable charger
2. 8 amp thru the balance wires 9s adjustable charger as I don't use a BMS on high quality cells for a one person personal battery. My new battery doesn't have balance tabs on it as it has a Bluetooth BMS which I love.
3. This is the one I use I put three 24 volt Meanwells adjustable voltage power supply adjusted equally each at around 27 volts for 83 volt 15 amp charger. As a power supply when it hits 83 volts it doesn't shut off you have to unplug it.
One drawback is that just a power supply type charger and it doesn't turn off once it hits 83 volt you have to unplug it.
You can tap into it at 27 volt 54 volt or the 83 volt at 15 amps that amps is not adjustable there's a lot of different Meanwells you can use and there are models that are very durable. The catalog is very big and varied.
 
3. This is the one I use I put three 24 volt Meanwells adjustable voltage power supply adjusted equally each at around 27 volts for 83 volt 15 amp charger. As a power supply when it hits 83 volts it doesn't shut off you have to unplug it.
One drawback is that just a power supply type charger and it doesn't turn off once it hits 83 volt you have to unplug it.

Sounds like you can use one of these to control the chargers on & off times.


 
Sounds like you can use one of these to control the chargers on & off times.


This is cool, I haven't seen one of these before. I'll have to look into that.
 
Chargers you buy from China can be very temperamental my favorite was a Kingpan from Ping. 48v 5a . I turned it up to 70 volts and it lasted 6 months It was also in a fire prior to that. It lasted 6 years total.
I can't believe my through the wire balance chargers as I have gotten a Hyperion 1420 a 1220 something all died and now the una9plus+ it works two of them. All three of these models they don't sell anymore because they're very temperamental.
The Meanwell's are very durable and can give you a higher amperage but mine at 1550 Watts is on the verge of popping my six plug strip.
 
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My 2 BAE A123 modules arrived well packed @ 39.45 & 39.41 volts respectively. The 12 cell groups of 8P were within 10 mv of each other. Here's a video of the circuit board. I do not see 12 high powered FETs which to my understanding is needed for a discharge BMS. It's gotta have a charge BMS right? What do you think?

I charged each pack up to 43.20 V constant current till it reached 0.750 A. Both packs are strapped onto my scooter as a 19S (around 65 V) being road tested to see what kind of range I'll get compared to the 60V 20 Ah lead acid which the scooter previously had. I instantly felt the difference the BAE A123 packs made in power and acceleration compared to the lead acid. Under full throttle, the BAE A123 packs sags about 2 volts which I think is much better than the lead acid's sag (can't remember the numbers).

The above is good news so far. The bad news is that it may be difficult or impossible to modify the 2 packs to fit into the scooter as a 19S. I do not want to break the packs up to individual cells and reconfigure. I do not have a spot welder and the process does not appeal to me due to the potential risks involved.

 
I have around 100 miles on the 2 BAE A123 packs strapped onto the floor of my scooter with bungee cords, sticking out like a BMW flat twin MC :mrgreen:. I started with 19S, then 20S which gave around 30 to 40 mile range. Next I tried 24S (82V fully charged) display powered up but the motor would not turn (on center stand). The controller must have over voltage protection which prevents the motor from running (60V controller). Currently I have it wired as 22S (73.7 V full). At 19 miles, battery dropped to 72V so I should be getting more range (red LED comes on at 55 V when there's 2 to 3 miles left). At 22S I can beat out cars from a stop light. I am impressed by the performance of these 13 year old A123 batteries. At full throttle, it sags about 2 V at most.
 
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OMG! I try to hide my battery mess as much as possible, but you just let it fly.
Con voy dios, as they say.
 
I feel better as they are lifepo4 . But still are a box with a lightning bolt inside and you want to use it bit by bit be careful they still can make fire.
I run 72 volt , but playing with them I lost four cells so now it's a 20s pack waiting to be installed. Or on the bench. 13yrs A123 20ah, only ever gotten 18.5ah.
I use them between 3.5v- 2.9v
 
I feel better as they are lifepo4 . But still are a box with a lightning bolt inside and you want to use it bit by bit be careful they still can make fire.
I run 72 volt , but playing with them I lost four cells so now it's a 20s pack waiting to be installed. Or on the bench. 13yrs A123 20ah, only ever gotten 18.5ah.
I use them between 3.5v- 2.9v
I am aware of how much energy are in these packs, thanks! Did you break your's down to individual cells? I did not want to do that since I do not have a spot welder and the work seems messy, not something I want to get into atm after giving it some consideration.

How did you test your packs are capable of 18.5 Ah? What equipment did you use?
 
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