etard
100 kW
Pm Matt, aka recumpence, aka reduction ninja, aka e-smile guru, aka the one who started this whole mess of going really really fast with really really small motors.
Also: http://www.ibikesports.com/products_isport.html Simpler to incorporate and cheaper but probably a bit less accurate than the PowerTap, especially at higher speeds.veloman said:I'm not sure if you guys know this, but if you really wanted to see the exact wattage going into your wheel, you could look into a Powertap hub.
voicecoils said:recumpence said:swbluto said:You can go with basic components and get in for about $700 for a basic motor, simple drive, and more basic ESC. $1000 for those components will get you some nice stuff. $1500 will take you to the stars! :wink:
For perspective, $1.5k is not outragous when serious MTB'ers spend $4k+ on downhill rigs and dirt bikes easily get to $10k+ before upgrades.
Capo_au said:wow what a read.. well its 4am here and I just finished trudging my way through all 70 odd pages of posts
patsagn said:Hi,
Do anyone knows of some RC controllers to which I could connect a torque sensor signal ?
I am quite interested in Marc's unit but I would like a power assist system like the one you find on the Panasonic Motors : the harder you pedal
the more power you get !
thanks a lot
Patrice , from France
Do you have the torque sensor on the bike where you can connect the signal? If so, it may be possible to use the RC throttelizer as a current-controlled throttle using the torque sensor signal (Assuming the torque sensor is a three-wire, 5V power supply, signal-out type of device) - the harder you pedal, the more current it supplies. If you want to have a hand throttle in addition to the torque sensor signal, then I think something could be arranged.
I don't have a crank torque sensor right now but I saw some that are for sell. I might buy one if I can figure out how to arrange all these components all together and if I get the chance to put my hands on this beautiful peace of work Marc has done.
Up for the offering is an RC throttle enhancing converter! It's basically a small electronic device that takes a regular e-bike/e-scooter/e-motorcycle throttle, hall or a pot throttle, and allows it to control the ESC while also adding features on such as temperature protection, current limiting, "current controlled mode", a customizable current ramp, LVC (Low voltage cutout for the battery), an e-brake connection and it also has usb ports that can be used to attach additional devices such as a SD data logger and/or a CA-like display (Currently being developed) and many more possible additions in the future. It's also programmable so you can customize pretty much all of the features above. It also comes with additional LOW ESR capacitors to prevent nasty voltage spikes on the power wires that's been known to kill ESCs - I'm setting the rating to 63V so you can get as much capacitance as you can, but you can get 100V ones on special request. So, how is this device better than the servo tester route? You don't have to buy a separate BEC, a servo tester and extra capacitors and do a lot of work. With this, you also get fairly important temperature protection which can prevent your $100-250 controller from blowing, your expensive motor from melting and/or your battery's life being cut, customizable throttle ramp, a programmable Low Voltage Cutoff, and a better current-based throttle control and the ability to program it just the way you want it.
patsagn said:Hello,
I don't have a crank torque sensor right now but I saw some that are for sell. I might buy one if I can figure out how to arrange all these components alltogether and if I get the chance to put my hands on this beautiful peace of work Marc has done.
You product seems the perfect tool to use . Do you have any feed back from users ?
Would that work with a Castle Phoenix HV-110 controller/ astrofilght engine ?
an finally what about price ?
cheers
Patrice
Miles said:The torque constant is inversely proportional to the velocity constant.
There's a maximum constant torque output, which is the same for all the winding configurations. As you say, the amps needed to get this will vary with Kv/Kt/number of turns.
6t needs 63 amps
7t needs 54 amps
8t needs 47 amps
10t needs 38 amps
Power is torque times velocity (motor speed).
mwkeefer said:12S LiPo 4P 20AH 20C - 4.15v per cell works out to: 44.4 nominal voltage.
At 44.4 volts the motor RPM (assuming minimum 90% efficiency) would be: 5394.6 RPM
Astro specs list the best amps on this motor at 17 which with the Kt (if accurate) is wrong... 17A would give you 170 Kt but the same docs claim best motor efficiency at 93% and 190 in oz, that would be 19A right?