Hyper bicycle mid-drive

Oh wow. I'm really going to have to go over the bike carefully when I get mine to make sure nothings wrong with it.
 
For extra 150 get spare everything . I just want to make sure I can use this bike as needed. Not crazy about 36 volts need it to be a 30 mph bike on flat and over 20 mph uphill. Most of the battery power will be dedicated to a 48 volt hub but will need full power out the mid drive on hills.
 
hillslayer@ said:
Not crazy about 36 volts need it to be a 30 mph bike on flat and over 20 mph uphill. Most of the battery power will be dedicated to a 48 volt hub but will need full power out the mid drive on hills.
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From my experience you would need about 1200w to do that, and the installed battery can't do that.
That said, I get that performance form a 48v 350w front hub motor. Probably gets fed about 700w max, but that's on this bike:

PXL_20250726_012036195.jpg With some doable vigorous pedaling it does 35mph on the level.
But the Badboy is a well geared bike.
 
I am adding a 1000 watt direct drive hub and 48 volt battery will put a 40 amp controller, the only job of the mid drive will be hill climbing . I need a bigger chainring also so if it's not workable will make this a camp bike that fits in back of my car hopefully.
 
I was thinking that the frame might not be up to what you intend to do, but just looked at the frame and it looks pretty sturdy. They sure didn't skimp on the aluminum, or the welds. And there's room to put substantially wider tires on it too. The wheels and brakes are crap, but you'll be putting on a new rear wheel anyway. The front forks are an unknown.
I'd suggest going with a geared hub motor, as your plan it to use the mid motor most of the time and the hub motor as a kicker. The problem is a DD motor has cogging resistance that you would need to overcome. A geared motor freewheels and is also lighter.
 
I am going to use the hub for everything and add the mid drive on hills since DD hubs have low torque and heat up if you slow down. The tires I have extra are 29x2.00 would be sweet if they fit I don't need fenders and usually they make noise. The one thing I need also is to put a substantially larger chainring on the mid drive so it can pull at the speed of the hub. If that works out I will be strapping 2 48 volt batteries for long trips to both sides of the downtube.
 
Well, got mine! Have some more work to get done, hopefully can unbox and check it all out later today or tomorrow, just in case something is totally b0rked and I need to ask Walmart for a fix/new one.
 
Drizzt321 said:
....just in case something is totally b0rked and I need to ask Walmart for a fix/new one.
Click to expand...
Good luck with that. As this bike was a marketing failure, and as they bought the shipped bikes for whatever amount and then sold it to us for $350 shipped, well there ain't no profit margin there. The bike was originally listed for $1400, then $999, then $699, and at $350 we are that the end of that stream. Trying to get Walmart to fix a damaged bike will be an uphill battle!

I ordered 2 more bikes last week. One is traveling up north without too much trouble, the other one keeps returning to the City of Industry. The more these 72 pound packages are handled the more the damage will occur. So I might want to complain to Walmart myself once my wayward child arrives.
I can almost guarantee that any bike you receive will have a kinked rear brake cable and a bent rear axle. Carbon steel axles are cheap, and I just bend the brake cable back into some semblance of what it is supposed to be.
 
gromike said:
Good luck with that. As this bike was a marketing failure, and as they bought the shipped bikes for whatever amount and then sold it to us for $350 shipped, well there ain't no profit margin there. The bike was originally listed for $1400, then $999, then $699, and at $350 we are that the end of that stream. Trying to get Walmart to fix a damaged bike will be an uphill battle!

I ordered 2 more bikes last week. One is traveling up north without too much trouble, the other one keeps returning to the City of Industry. The more these 72 pound packages are handled the more the damage will occur. So I might want to complain to Walmart myself once my wayward child arrives.
I can almost guarantee that any bike you receive will have a kinked rear brake cable and a bent rear axle. Carbon steel axles are cheap, and I just bend the brake cable back into some semblance of what it is supposed to be.
Click to expand...
The white ones are still 1400 guess gray just didn't sell
 
First glance at unboxing. Everything appears there, nothing _too_ terrible in cardboard tear through, and there was padding/packing ends at where it might bang up against the side of the cardboard, so might be nothing harmed from that part. Except for the computer/display mount. The display is there, but part of the plastic to 'grip' around the handlebars is broken *sigh* If that's the worst of it, I can manage OK. I'll try and get in touch with them, but worst case I can 3D print/bodge together something sufficient.

Tomorrow will be for rest of the setup/put together.

EDIT: After a 2nd look, I'm sure I can come up with something to firmly attach it to the handlebars, but doesn't look like it's easily replaceable without pulling the whole back off. Also without looking too closely, the wiring doesn't look like it'd be that easy to pull and replace the whole screen. I could be wrong, hopefully am, didn't look too closely. But I do think I can bodge together some kind of 3D printed something or other as needed. Or just use some glue and zip-ties to hold it all on.

Also after popping the battery out, I'm considering finding some kind of _very_ thin weatherstripping to go around the edge when I put in to help seal against water ingress. Seems OK otherwise, at first glance.
 
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hillslayer@ said:
The one thing I need also is to put a substantially larger chainring on the mid drive so it can pull at the speed of the hub.
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Doesn't that just move the heat to the mid drive, since it would then be spinning at a suboptimal speed? Meaning, the mid drives strength is using gearing to keep the mid drive motor spinning at it's optimal speed which produces less heat, so it seems with the big chainring, your just moving some of the total heat of the system from one motor to the other?
 
For sure, I'm not going to just rely on the crap clamp, but it's brand new out of the box, they need to make it good and working. Then I'll work on reinforcing it so it won't just break again.

Also, a major Pet Peeve, a VERY generic reply asking for the description and such ALL OVER AGAIN. When I included that in the very original email, along with pictures of the model sticker & problem. It's like they don't bother EVER READING ANYTHING. *sigh*
 
It all depends on how much time and effort you want to invest -- or just use a zip-tie.
Walmart sure doesn't want to invest any more time or treasure in this bike. Expect the run around.
 
Just received and assembled my second one. These things are packaged pretty well, all things considered. (Can't seem to post any pictures, or do anything from the header?)
Anyway, if you turn the bike upside down, like to mount the front wheel, you need to move the display out of the way. A delayed reaction, but this might be what caused my display clamp to crack yesterday. Also turn the forks 180 degrees to face the front before you fit the stem and handlebars. It helps in getting the cables oriented right.
Kind of a pleasant evening unboxing and assembling. The most strenuous part of it was breaking down and tying up the box for recycling tomorrow.
Every bearing everywhere is tight. Maybe the assumption is that in use it will provide the final machining. I know the wheels require some TLC, but probably the headtube bearings also. The pedals I stand on end and drip some oil in. I hope it drifts on down into the bearings.
 
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Started putting mine together, these are the worst wheels I have seen spokes loose bearings feel like they are to tight and no grease and single wall I think. 29 x 2.00 tires look like fat tires compared to what came on the bike will take a test ride with the skinny tires. Bike didn't come with any directions for the display you guys able to unlock the speed limit somehow?
 
Yeah, the wheels are crap. Costs too much for decent wheels, so I'll probably run them until the wheels fall off.
I do have some 26in disk brake MtB wheels around. I might try those.
I have yet to feel any speed restriction because 20mph is more than fast enough for me on this bike. Good bakes are my #1 priority.
Though, it would be interesting to get inside the controller settings. As is, the motor is literally a black box.
 
Was first time riding a torque sensor seemed to get pretty warm on the short workout I gave it . My list, handlebar adapter to run a regular stem, bars are way to narrow. Change grips get rid of twist shifter , hydraulic brakes 205 mm rotors hopefully 29x 2.00 tires on different rims 52 t chainring and 1000 watt direct drive hub running a 50 amp controller on 48 or 52 volts. Will be the first time combining a torque sensor mid drive with a hub, ghost pedaling with this adds nothing should conserve battery on the mid drive hopefully it will assist up to 27 mph.
 
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