Hyper bicycle mid-drive

Good bakes are my #1 priority.
You could just change the calipers out for Avid BB7 MTN versions and call it a day. (if the cables or housings are terrible you could change those too, but I have used stuff from walmart (IIRC) that Dogman got me and the BB7 still brakes better than anything else I've ever used. ;)

for wheels, my usual thing is to find old decent-brand bikes at thriftstores, yardsales, and freecycle/craigslist for at most a few bucks, and use the parts from those. Wheels usually stay intact, because they're normally built well enough to not need touching up, but sometimes they get used for parts to build the wheel I actually want. ;)
 
I bought a pair of inexpensive Shimano mechanical calipers (BR-M375). Still need to install them. They have about 3 times the pad area as the calipers currently on the bike. Hopefully that will be good enough. Use won't be high speed, heavy loads, or long descents. Just need something that stops the bike well, and without all the cheap brake squeal.

I'll keep my eye out for a donor bike for harvesting some decent wheels. Disk brake wheels might complicate the search.
 
Do you mean you don't have the link or that the forum wont' accept it?
Probably just a bad link. I can copy and paste links, but the header at the top of the reply box is dead. Can't post pictures, link or do anything in that header.
 
29 x 2.00 tires fit barely no fenders I would not bother using the stock rims find something at least double wall. The front fork is going to be sketchy running a QR it's a loose fit and not an easy fix, why they still put these old school head tubes on bikes still makes no sense. The hub motor fits perfectly in the dropout probably the same one they use for the hub version.
 
Put new brake calipers on, and it is a vast improvement. Shimano BR-M375. Ordered 4 more and will do all 3 bikes (the last of which is scheduled to arrive later today.) They were $19.95 each, Amazon said they only had 4 left in stock so I gobbled them up.
Between new saddles, pogo stick seat posts, and new calipers I am up $80 in cost per bike. About $475, including all the taxes, but exclusive of my labor. Decent pedals would also be nice.

I'd post some picture, but this site won't let me.
 
I went with the mechanical brakes because it was just easier to do. The brakes I now have are great -- good enough for what this bike is going to do.
As far as hydraulics, the rear brake line is something like 1850mm, so you'd need to order for that (or buy some hose and ferrules.)
 
I can copy and paste links, but the header at the top of the reply box is dead. Can't post pictures, link or do anything in that header.
If you clicked the box that looks like two brackets at the far right [ ] then it's in PHPBB Code mode, where all that stuff would be manually entered, so the buttons in the bar get disabled. Click the box again and it should bring the functions back.
 
Yanked apart the headset looks like it will take a standard 44 mm headset bearing but due to the length of the headtube none of my extra forks will work bummer. Why they put a quill and stem on their just so they could unload some shit forks is dumb
 
Just trying to save money. So, can a bearing fit in the head tube for a standard (1 1/8") steerer tube?
I know the head tube is wide enough, but is there a standard "kit" you can buy that is easy to fit? That would be great!
Should of bought a hundred if so. I mean, a mid-drive in a frame with a battery for $350 shipped, ain't that a good deal?
The electrics probably are not beefy enough for today's world, but for just biking around on an ebike this thing is pretty darn good.
 
44 mm headset kit goes right in will be putting a 160 mm forks on for testing only one I had with a long enough steerer . Will look a little weird but be safer than the fork it came with.
 
So, can a bearing fit in the head tube for a standard (1 1/8") steerer tube?
I know the head tube is wide enough, but is there a standard "kit" you can buy that is easy to fit?
If you knock out the cups that are there, and repalce them with cups wide enough for hte bigger bearings, it'll work. Assuming you can find a set of cups that will fit both the tube and the bearings you want to use.

Alternatley, you can find skinnier bearings, but they take less loading with thinner races, so make sure they're installed correctly and everything in the headset stack is correclty tensioned.

There might be kits to do this; I haven't checked.

I use a *bigger" bearing on SB Cruiser, "The Pig" by FSA; you might check if they have skinnier ones too.
 
If you knock out the cups that are there, and repalce them with cups wide enough for hte bigger bearings, it'll work. Assuming you can find a set of cups that will fit both the tube and the bearings you want to use.

Alternatley, you can find skinnier bearings, but they take less loading with thinner races, so make sure they're installed correctly and everything in the headset stack is correclty tensioned.

There might be kits to do this; I haven't checked.

I use a *bigger" bearing on SB Cruiser, "The Pig" by FSA; you might check if they have skinnier ones too.
It's just the standard 44 mm bearing kit nothing special
 
If you order a threadless fork for this bike get the longest steerer tube you can, you will not have to cut it. I am using an uncut steerer tube and wish it was longer. Due to the geo on this frame I don't think regular swept back bars are the best might need BMX bars , will know more once I finish putting it together.
 
The front fork is a little overkill because none of 100 mm ones I have fit and looking at prices it seems dirt cheap halfway good Chinese forks are no longer around. You can buy a Rockshox cheaper than a no name Chinese forks. And finding a used uncut fork probably isn't likely. Once I get the second battery mounted and a controller for the hub wired in will test ride it and see if it does what I want, will then look for a workable fork. This looks like the eride city downhill version.
 
Finally took it out with a hub, and does great up to 20 mph then the mid drive stops helping . Which is a little slower than I want to be climbing hills, so until I find a way to unlock unlimited speed it will be parked. I did really like the torque sensor on slow speed dirt single track.
 
Finally took it out with a hub, and does great up to 20 mph then the mid drive stops helping . Which is a little slower than I want to be climbing hills, so until I find a way to unlock unlimited speed it will be parked. I did really like the torque sensor on slow speed dirt single track.
My mistake you can up the speed to 28 mph , I thought the display manual said it wasn't adjustable. So will put a 52 t chainring on, this will be about 3 to 4 mph slower than a Bbso2 hub combo but you never have to wonder if your wasting power in ghost pedaling the mid -drive which can happen with cadence sensor.
 
So, the motor will output power up to 28mph? Did you need to adjust the speed setting via the display?
Pretty much academic for me, as my Hyper bikes aren't going to be high speed.

For some reason I bought 3 of them. Not like I needed any more bikes, electric or not. Two wheel fever is a sickness that burns deep down within the soul, I guess.
They're now finished as far as I'm concerned. New brake calipers and seats. My total cost in bike, taxes, and parts is about $440 each. One of them has been in service as a run around town bike. Another is for a charity thing. The third one is either to lend out, or to provide parts.
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