hillslayer@
1 kW
The display let's you go up to 28 mph , after changing the wheels front fork and handle bars and adding hydraulic brakes bike feels pretty stable at 30 mph plus. As they came from Walmart 20 mph was not confident inspiring.
Hyper bicycle mid-drive
- Thread starter gromike
- Start date
hillslayer@
1 kW
To anyone wanting the max size tires on this with no fenders, I had to sand down the fender mount on the seat stay to clear half worn 29x2.00 tires to put new ones on would take some work with a grinder.
hillslayer@
1 kW
This is turning into my experimental bike I will be changing the rear hub motor to a 26 inch wheel and see if this increases my up hill speed , I think it might become comparable to my other bikes with bigger mid -drives .
So was gone for most of a week, but back and bike is mostly assembled, however I'm finding the battery appears dead. Voltage on it is ~0.5v with my multimeter, even after plugging it in with their charger for a couple of hours. So time to call and get them to send a new battery.
Probably I can crack it open and rebuild it with new/better cells to increase capacity, I do have a spot welder, but that'll be a last ditch effort. Or I'll do it after I get the new battery to have a spare/increase range.
EDIT: At a guess, it's 10s4p 18650, estimating 2500mAh cells, so looks like for $~150+ I can replace those with Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA Flat Top 10A 3500mAh 18650 Battery - Genuine - Wholesale Discount which are 3450 and going up to 13.8Ah pack, about 30+% more capacity.
Probably I can crack it open and rebuild it with new/better cells to increase capacity, I do have a spot welder, but that'll be a last ditch effort. Or I'll do it after I get the new battery to have a spare/increase range.
EDIT: At a guess, it's 10s4p 18650, estimating 2500mAh cells, so looks like for $~150+ I can replace those with Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA Flat Top 10A 3500mAh 18650 Battery - Genuine - Wholesale Discount which are 3450 and going up to 13.8Ah pack, about 30+% more capacity.
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The 0v means the BMS has turned off. If the charger stays at it's "finished" state instead of starting charge (whatever indication it uses for this), then it has turned off both input and output, so that the charger can't put current into the cells and charge them, because of a problem of some kind inside the pack.
Could be bad cells, connection fault, itnerconnects, blown fuse, or even a failed BMS, in order of general likelihood.
Could be bad cells, connection fault, itnerconnects, blown fuse, or even a failed BMS, in order of general likelihood.
Nope, the charger color is red, saying it's charging. But even after an hour or more the BMS doesn't seems to have turned back on, so I'm going with something bad has happened, probably BMS, but I dunno. So it's on them to replace it for me, before I crack it open and see if I can figure out what's wrong and rebuild it to make it usable.
Hopefully they *can* replace the battery, instead of having you ship the whole thing back for warranty.
If not, and you want to troubleshoot it, we can help with that.
If not, and you want to troubleshoot it, we can help with that.
So just called, short hold time. I recommend calling rather than emailing...the other I just didn't get any response until now, on the phone, asking about this other issue.
However, this second time I tried plugging in the battery with her on the phone, the charger just stayed steady green. Weird. But I think I fixed it/woke it up. I had it plugged in, and then pushed the charger indicator, and it lit up and the charger light changed to red!
So actually, that's a battery POWER button (on/off), and you need to hold for 2 seconds. Looks like it wasn't turning on/off when _not_ on the charger because the BMS went to sleep. However, when plugged in, that power switch actually now worked which allowed the BMS to see the power, and reconnect. *sigh*
I just simply thought it was a momentary on/off or momentary "what's the charge level" indicator.
However, this second time I tried plugging in the battery with her on the phone, the charger just stayed steady green. Weird. But I think I fixed it/woke it up. I had it plugged in, and then pushed the charger indicator, and it lit up and the charger light changed to red!
So actually, that's a battery POWER button (on/off), and you need to hold for 2 seconds. Looks like it wasn't turning on/off when _not_ on the charger because the BMS went to sleep. However, when plugged in, that power switch actually now worked which allowed the BMS to see the power, and reconnect. *sigh*
I just simply thought it was a momentary on/off or momentary "what's the charge level" indicator.
When a battery acts "wierd", I prefer to open them up and verify all cell voltages, connections, etc., because sometimes it's just a wierd design, but someitmes it's miswired (if the wierdness happens from the beginning) or it's a cell fault (or bms with stuck balancer draining cells that causes a cell fault), and in either case I'd rather know about it...but if it's a cell fault you might not see the issue after charging it, until it sits unused long enough to self-drain again.
In this case, it was a combination of BMS disconnected/user error. I thought the button was just "what's the current power capacity look like", not "turn on/off". And then combined with BMS being disconnected, it needed to be connected to the charger for the button to actually work to turn on/off power to the BMS, which then detected the charging voltage, and reconnected and working just fine now.
The thing is, something is either built weird in that battery, or wrong, or something esle was already wrong, for it to require the button to turn things on/off with the charger connected.
If it wouldn't turn on until the hcarger was connected, the battery was very low, or too low, or a cell was too low for the BMS to just allow charge normally, etc.
If just one cell was low, that's a sign that it is a problem, or that the BMS is draining it, etc.
If all cells were equally low, it could indicate a problem that the system or BMS is draining them, or that they just generally ahve a problem (like if it was a returned battery thats' worn out, or some factory issue, etc).
Anyway, the behavior is wierd, and that would always prompt me to test everything before allowing charge and normal use. Up to you what to do with it, just wanted to point out that' it's unusual and in my expereince unusual usually
means a problem.
If it wouldn't turn on until the hcarger was connected, the battery was very low, or too low, or a cell was too low for the BMS to just allow charge normally, etc.
If just one cell was low, that's a sign that it is a problem, or that the BMS is draining it, etc.
If all cells were equally low, it could indicate a problem that the system or BMS is draining them, or that they just generally ahve a problem (like if it was a returned battery thats' worn out, or some factory issue, etc).
Anyway, the behavior is wierd, and that would always prompt me to test everything before allowing charge and normal use. Up to you what to do with it, just wanted to point out that' it's unusual and in my expereince unusual usually
means a problem.gromike
10 kW
The instructions are very clear to charge the battery for 4 hours before initial use. You found the little battery button, which needs to be pushed for a few seconds for the battery to turn on. I guess you know all of that now.
I bought 3 of them and have had no problem with the electric part of the bike on any of them. The manufacture date of my 3 is 11/21, so the batteries are 4 plus years old.
I bought 3 of them and have had no problem with the electric part of the bike on any of them. The manufacture date of my 3 is 11/21, so the batteries are 4 plus years old.
Yup, skimming the manual I missed that the button is actually on/off somehow.
Ok...how the heck are you supposed to get the front fender on centered left-right? There are no mount bolts behind the axle nuts, and no room behind them either, so I'm having to put it over the front wheel axle and tighten the nuts down. It seems the whenever I tighten the left side nut, it pulls the entire thing in that direction, so the back right side. is brushing the wheel.
hillslayer@
1 kW
Any bike I had with metal fenders always ended up rattling, no fenders or plastic ones.
Except when I used rivnut inserts directly into the fork legs (like on SB Cruiser), I use P-clamps around the fork legs to provide mounting points for fenders.
I usually used the ones from old reflector kits, but if they wouldn't fit the tubing I'd get some from the hardware store, or bend some out of scrap metal (usually lining them wiht old innertube rubber to keep them from slipping or scraping up the paint).
I usually used the ones from old reflector kits, but if they wouldn't fit the tubing I'd get some from the hardware store, or bend some out of scrap metal (usually lining them wiht old innertube rubber to keep them from slipping or scraping up the paint).
gromike
10 kW
Put the fender arms under the axle nuts, then just gently beat on the fender arms to get where you need to go.. You probably need to true the front wheel to get the wheel to track through the fender. Narrow tire and narrow fenders, but when you get the bike set up it's pretty sweet. For me, to get there, was the addition of a comfy seat and new brake calipers.
I just remembered I need to check the wheel bearings are greased, since it sounds like they may not be, right? Reading up on Sheldon Brown, and this is going to be really annoying... *sigh* Or maybe I should just replace the hubs and rims altogether?
gromike
10 kW
The wheel bearings are lightly greased and, in my opinion, too tight. I expect the assumption is that the wheels will loosen up in use.
I greased and adjusted the wheel bearing on ones, but now I'm kind of thinking maybe the bike should be ridden around a bit, doing the final machining, before going through the axle bearings.
I greased and adjusted the wheel bearing on ones, but now I'm kind of thinking maybe the bike should be ridden around a bit, doing the final machining, before going through the axle bearings.
gromike
10 kW
There's a little grease in there. In my current way of thinking I'd use the bike a bit, then clean and regrease the hubs and set the cones. They're really cheap wheels, but set up right they'll probably work for a long time.
I ride one now as my run around town bike and it's really a sweet ride, though not a fast one. The original brake calipers, outside of barely stopping the bike, made quite the racket. Sort of announcing you're ridding a cheap bike. Now, with quiet brakes, I ride with a smile -- I mean a mid-drive ebike for $350 delivered -- that makes me happy!
I ride one now as my run around town bike and it's really a sweet ride, though not a fast one. The original brake calipers, outside of barely stopping the bike, made quite the racket. Sort of announcing you're ridding a cheap bike. Now, with quiet brakes, I ride with a smile -- I mean a mid-drive ebike for $350 delivered -- that makes me happy!
Yeah, that's my thought, a short to moderate distance bike with decent to moderate assist, doesn't look TOO much like an ebike, with the battery integrated into the frame. I'm actually kinda impressed with the rear rack, which also has extensions to provide fallover protection on the gears and rear brake. Not something I'd expect.
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