Hyper bicycle mid-drive
- Thread starter gromike
- Start date
gromike
10 kW
Being a disk brake wheel it doesn't have to be super true. If you loosen them all up and start over you might make the situation worse. I just trued it good enough to not rub on the fenders.
hillslayer@
10 kW
Have you tightened up all the loose spokes once you get decent tension on all the spokes it should be easy from there.
That far out of true probably indicates a bent rim.
To test for that kind of thing you can try to tension up the looser ones to match tighter ones, but this might not work and could strip the nipples (or crack the rim) if things are already too tight. it'd be safer to loosen the tight ones to match the loose ones, then evenly go around the whole wheel and tension to the correct amount for that rim.
I've never had any wheel more than a tiny amount out of true, less than a few mm, with a straight rim and no broken spokes (unless the spokes were of wildly varying tensions, which shouldn't be the case with a brand new OEM-built wheel, especially a non-hubmotor type). (i've had a LOT of wheels, almost all used, of ages from months to decades, some on bikes, some just as wheels, from all sorts of sources).
To test for that kind of thing you can try to tension up the looser ones to match tighter ones, but this might not work and could strip the nipples (or crack the rim) if things are already too tight. it'd be safer to loosen the tight ones to match the loose ones, then evenly go around the whole wheel and tension to the correct amount for that rim.
I've never had any wheel more than a tiny amount out of true, less than a few mm, with a straight rim and no broken spokes (unless the spokes were of wildly varying tensions, which shouldn't be the case with a brand new OEM-built wheel, especially a non-hubmotor type). (i've had a LOT of wheels, almost all used, of ages from months to decades, some on bikes, some just as wheels, from all sorts of sources).
the last time i had a problem with out of trueness that bad, iirc, it was on my fusin hubmotor wheel on dayglo avenger after i skidded in gravel and the front wheel was at least sort of perpendicular to the direction of travel, so it was bent by the action. ti's been ages, but iirc i tried retruing it but it was not really possible---i think i finally got it good enought at least use the rim brakes but not very well. 
hopefuly yours won't be that big a deal, but if it's really half an inch out of true... :/
hopefuly yours won't be that big a deal, but if it's really half an inch out of true... :/
Ok, nice, managed to get it pretty much in true. Probably more than good enough since it's a disc brake.
I had to do a slight step/bend, and then with slight tighten/loosen, got the worst of it out, and then just keep going it around and tweaking. I think I might get a cheap ~$20 tension meter on Amazon, just to get a fair reference to make sure they're all pretty close to the same tension.
I had to do a slight step/bend, and then with slight tighten/loosen, got the worst of it out, and then just keep going it around and tweaking. I think I might get a cheap ~$20 tension meter on Amazon, just to get a fair reference to make sure they're all pretty close to the same tension.
What is a "step/bend"? Built and fixed a lot of wheels and don't know of anything called that?
Truing Wheels
Truing bicycle wheels is one of the most useful mechanical skills a cyclist can learn.
www.sheldonbrown.com
EDIT: And brakes adjusted, might do a slight additional adjustment, but I think it's they're good for now. And bent the lower supports on the front fender so it's god enough clearance.
I do have better pedals with toe clips on the way, might add a rear basket & bungies on the back rack, and still need to make sure to adjust the seat, and probably replace the saddle.
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Ah, ok, that part I have done. Just never heard it called "step/bend".
To make it work I have always had to loosen all the spokes in the entire affected area. It's gotten me home, but it's never restored a wheel bad enough to require the technique back to real usefulness.
Yeah, I don't know what it "really" is called, that's just how it seemed to me.
I'm going to wait to sober up a bit from this great cider before taking it out for a test ride. With my helmet!
Hmm...I wish I could figure out a way to tap into the battery for front/tail lights, so I wouldn't have to have separate battery systems. I'll have to do some investigative surgery to see if I can cut & split out a 36v line.
I'm going to wait to sober up a bit from this great cider before taking it out for a test ride. With my helmet!
Hmm...I wish I could figure out a way to tap into the battery for front/tail lights, so I wouldn't have to have separate battery systems. I'll have to do some investigative surgery to see if I can cut & split out a 36v line.
gromike
10 kW
One of the best thing I did was replace the brake calipers. I couldn't adjust them well enough to make the brakes quiet, let alone stop the bike in a reasonable distance. I used these: Shimano BR-M375. Night and day difference in braking and noise, about $20 each.
But please post how your brakes are working with the installed calipers.
Ok. OW. That saddle MUST be changed. That's one of the worst I've ever attempted to sit on.
So the calipers are...OK. They definitely won't set any records in stopping power, but if you're staying ~8-10mph you should be OK against most things. Just...maybe not necessarily getting doored at times. And definitely not great stopping power for down significant hills at significant speed.
The motor seems just fine, although not a huge amount of power, seems sufficient for most basic needs with the mechanical advantage of the gears works fine. Even a moderate hill, assist level 5 and down into I think 2 or 3 gear, was only a modest effort to climb up.
So yeah, huge priority is different saddle, then probably some other calipers.
So the calipers are...OK. They definitely won't set any records in stopping power, but if you're staying ~8-10mph you should be OK against most things. Just...maybe not necessarily getting doored at times. And definitely not great stopping power for down significant hills at significant speed.
The motor seems just fine, although not a huge amount of power, seems sufficient for most basic needs with the mechanical advantage of the gears works fine. Even a moderate hill, assist level 5 and down into I think 2 or 3 gear, was only a modest effort to climb up.
So yeah, huge priority is different saddle, then probably some other calipers.
I also notice that there's no brake cutoff or shifting cutoff, so need to better to set your gears before going up a hill.
I would wish the motor was the 350W version, I wonder if there's a way to just reprogram it to that version, and it's otherwise the same? That's be nice...
The torque sensor and such were nice. Very smooth addition of power, and it wasn't much noise until speed was up to 8-10mph, and even then not that loud.
All in all, well worth $350 I'd say!
I would wish the motor was the 350W version, I wonder if there's a way to just reprogram it to that version, and it's otherwise the same? That's be nice...
The torque sensor and such were nice. Very smooth addition of power, and it wasn't much noise until speed was up to 8-10mph, and even then not that loud.
All in all, well worth $350 I'd say!
gromike
10 kW
I haven't noticed any shifting problems under load. Not all the much power to worry about.
Modifying the motor setup would be a major challenge, as it's all a blackbox.
As far as motor power, it seems like max power is over 250w, maybe up to 500w from the feel of it. No power meter, so I don't really know.
A comfy seat was my first upgrade, along with a pogo stick seatpost.
Modifying the motor setup would be a major challenge, as it's all a blackbox.
As far as motor power, it seems like max power is over 250w, maybe up to 500w from the feel of it. No power meter, so I don't really know.
A comfy seat was my first upgrade, along with a pogo stick seatpost.
From the first first page, it's C20-VINKA C20-VINKA MOTOR
hillslayer@
10 kW
With torque sensor you pedal lightly while shifting just like a regular bike
So no, they can't replace the screen:
So any warranty issues likely won't be able to get fixed/replacement parts at all. At least, as it relates to the motor/electronics. This is...more than mildly pissing me off, although I also acknowledge I got it for $350 (plus tax), so really cheap. But still, if you aren't going to be able to honor your warranty... Unless they intended to just replace the whole bike, which is OK in that case. But then probably not with a mid-drive if they end up selling through their stock.
So any warranty issues likely won't be able to get fixed/replacement parts at all. At least, as it relates to the motor/electronics. This is...more than mildly pissing me off, although I also acknowledge I got it for $350 (plus tax), so really cheap. But still, if you aren't going to be able to honor your warranty... Unless they intended to just replace the whole bike, which is OK in that case. But then probably not with a mid-drive if they end up selling through their stock.
hillslayer@
10 kW
So will have to replace the controller.
gromike
10 kW
When you buy a mid-drive ebike at a clearance sale for under $300 (I factored out the shipping cost) I doubt if you can expect any assistance from the seller or the manufacturer, warranty or otherwise. Just the cost of going cheap.
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