I have this controller aswell VNX48/60SVPRD-DRD01 and i have been irritated by NOT being able to find the wiring colour codes anywhere on the internet ive even emailed that bike shop no one will help!! ive got a bafung hub on a cannondale bike here and Ebike with no working controllers on them i want to know what the heck im doing wrong!!
I have this controller aswell VNX48/60SVPRD-DRD01 and i have been irritated by NOT being able to find the wiring colour codes anywhere on the internet
- Thread starter wakey2050
- Start date
..that's super cheap Chinese controllers for you.. zero documentation.. poor quality components.. brand names changing every day.. design constantly changing ( no way to document ).. 1000's of random units.. proprietary wiring colors.. and no support.
I would strongly recommend against buying any of these units, you're playing the lottery with equally bad odds when you buy one.
If you post some pictures of the controller and it's accessories, there's a small chance you will get lucky.
I would strongly recommend against buying any of these units, you're playing the lottery with equally bad odds when you buy one.
If you post some pictures of the controller and it's accessories, there's a small chance you will get lucky.
Well, not super cheap, but the rest makes sense.
Pedal Assist Conversion Kits | E-Bikes World
Pedal Assist Conversion Kits (For NSW on Road Legally Use)Includes: 1 X 48V 200W Controller ;1 X Pedal Assist Sensor ;1 X Magnetic Pad ;1 X Thumb Accelerator Please Note: Price doesn't including our Labor Cost for Modify
www.ebikesworld.com.au
Although this is an old thread with no real outcome I thought I might try to refresh it. A friend got hold of a cargo bike for practically nothing, bought a new keyfob/security fob because the original went missing. Although I know nothing about ebikes I agreed to help him. The bike was going not long before he acquired it and he got several batteries with it. the controller is the one named in the original post.
The problem we're having is that the bike energises, screen briefly lights up etc, but the wheels are electrically 'locked'. It's a pedal assist btw. We've tried the batteries in another ebike of same make though much older and the batteries drive that bike fine. We've tried that bike 's battery in my friends and the wheel is still locked.
What I mean by locked is that the wheel can be rocked I'd say about half a motor pole then it pulls back, the stator is energised preventing rotation, I've measured current on all 3 phases.
when rocked the screen lights up for a few seconds and the electrics work, then all goes off until attempting to move the bike again when the wheel will lock and electrics come back on briefly.
Things I've tried are unplugging every connector in turn but no success though I was able to identify a few of the connectors function but nothing helping with driving the wheel. These motors are similar to the brushless motors I use in my rc plane but those don't have Hall sensors which I believe the ebike motor does.
In desperation I tried reversing two of the motor phase wires - completely illogical as the bike was a goer and the electrics have not been fiddled with . To my surprise the wheel motored but only for a few seconds then went back to locked. I tried several permutations of phase wires and got the same result every time, a few seconds of rotation then back to locked. I've got it on a stand so the wheel is off the ground and pedals can be turned.
I'm baffled, it seems maybe a hall sensor/phase issue, but to add more perplexity, he actually got 2 of these bikes and they both behave exactly the same.
If anyone has any insights they could share I'd be delighted because my limited knowledge has run out .
The problem we're having is that the bike energises, screen briefly lights up etc, but the wheels are electrically 'locked'. It's a pedal assist btw. We've tried the batteries in another ebike of same make though much older and the batteries drive that bike fine. We've tried that bike 's battery in my friends and the wheel is still locked.
What I mean by locked is that the wheel can be rocked I'd say about half a motor pole then it pulls back, the stator is energised preventing rotation, I've measured current on all 3 phases.
when rocked the screen lights up for a few seconds and the electrics work, then all goes off until attempting to move the bike again when the wheel will lock and electrics come back on briefly.
Things I've tried are unplugging every connector in turn but no success though I was able to identify a few of the connectors function but nothing helping with driving the wheel. These motors are similar to the brushless motors I use in my rc plane but those don't have Hall sensors which I believe the ebike motor does.
In desperation I tried reversing two of the motor phase wires - completely illogical as the bike was a goer and the electrics have not been fiddled with . To my surprise the wheel motored but only for a few seconds then went back to locked. I tried several permutations of phase wires and got the same result every time, a few seconds of rotation then back to locked. I've got it on a stand so the wheel is off the ground and pedals can be turned.
I'm baffled, it seems maybe a hall sensor/phase issue, but to add more perplexity, he actually got 2 of these bikes and they both behave exactly the same.
If anyone has any insights they could share I'd be delighted because my limited knowledge has run out .
stancecoke
10 MW
This sounds like a safety feature, that is known from public rental scooters or bikes to prevent the vehicles of being stolen. You can check if the behaviour is different, if the battery is not connected.
Thank you. A different controller is plan B. I guess I'm a bit ocd when it comes to repairing broken things and I get great satisfaction from a success, so I'll persevere as long as there is some hope. I see alternative controllers are not too expensive and if I have to do that I'll still get a degree of satisfaction .If you are this good at diagnosing the bike then you could definitely handle a conversion to a better controller if need be
It does seem that's a possibility though I got a replacement security device and electronic key fob from the supplier.
The bike can be moved freely without the battery . The "lock" I refer to is not mechanical but results from energisation of the motor windings so that the motor magnets prevent rotation, the "lock" is kind of springy, and the bike resists wheel movement. Same sort of feel as you get if you short the motor leads but very much harder. If I were able to force a rotation it would only be to the next motor pole position.
When the wheel is locked, if you disconnect the battery from the controller, does it remain locked?
I would try bypassing the unit. I would measure voltage on all conductors between the module and controller for battery level positive when off. Then, after turning it on via the fob, take the same measurements. Normally these controllers are turned on when battery level voltage is applied to the “key lock” conductor, often times orange. If you test the voltages, and after the system is turned on, you can identify the “key lock” conductor. Then, with the module unplugged from the controller, you can apply battery voltage to the key lock to turn on the controller. I’d check to see if the motor remains locked with the module disconnected and controller on.
I would try bypassing the unit. I would measure voltage on all conductors between the module and controller for battery level positive when off. Then, after turning it on via the fob, take the same measurements. Normally these controllers are turned on when battery level voltage is applied to the “key lock” conductor, often times orange. If you test the voltages, and after the system is turned on, you can identify the “key lock” conductor. Then, with the module unplugged from the controller, you can apply battery voltage to the key lock to turn on the controller. I’d check to see if the motor remains locked with the module disconnected and controller on.
Answering your first question, if either the power connector or the 3pin connector on the sec dev is removed while pressing on the pedal the wheel instantly frees .
Thanks for the input. Re attached picture, 2 pin connector red-black 58v constant.
regardless of fob lock, unlock, power or combination of, and 3pin plugged in or not, all orange blue green/grey wires 0v rel to neg black.
But, when connector plugged in and;½
*fob locked tamper operates by movement causing orange to 58v and green to 50v, wheel locks alarm sounds
*Fob locked power pressed same voltages but no sound, wheel locks
*fob unlocked power pressed same voltages, wheel lock, no sound.
Other measurements ;
green-black voltage proportional to wheel speed regardless of fob setting (as far as I can see given wheel locking up) 0v to 12v...
Behaviour is like this when the pedal is pressed (but not until)
If Fob lock, alarm and wheel lock
If Fob unlock, and power on sequence is
1 no display
2 press pedal turns maybe half turn, wheel locks display lights up
3 maintain pressure on pedal wheel "bucks" but does not rotate happens abt 5 times over 5 seconds display goes off wheel releases but no power. Release pedal and press again gets same outcomes
4 one last measurement, blue wire goes to abt 4v just as wheel releases
I remain baffled. Sadly though the Chinese company in Sydney was happy to sell the fob and security device they are unwilling to have further discussion. Their response has been bring the bike to our shop. Explaining we are in a remote town 1500 km from Sydney doesn't change their unhelpfullness, and these seem to be a reasonably common cargo bike.
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