improving MXUS 3000 V2

Hello all,

I would like to lace this motor, too bad I have to dished motor very to the left side (looking from behind view).
Any suggestions?

Thank you!
 
whats your dropout width?
 
Im running 80A battery and about 160A phase current. On stock wires about 1.5FT long with xt150 connectors.
 
BoomerChomsi said:
Thanks.

It is 135mm Giant DH comp frame :eek:ops
Rimd ERD is 537mm.

Thank you!
Click to expand...

you have two options:
- dishing the rim, but probabaly you will need two differnt length of spokes
- do some work on the axle and make the flat part longer with the benefit of 16,8mm instead of only 14mm. 5mm should be good,

if you decide to do lastt option than take care and better meausure once more than to less ;) first i used a angle grinder and the fine work i did with a file.
 
icecube57 said:
Im running 80A battery and about 160A phase current. On stock wires about 1.5FT long with xt150 connectors.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info icecube. Have your phase wires become warm or hot under load? Do you find the 80-160 phase ratio acceptable?
 
I found it more than adequate for my area which is hilly. I have a 3 speed switch on my CA to keep the speed and torque in check and even have the throttle ramping conservatively set cause it pulls so hard. Stock wires are not the weak point of this motor. However I would keep them short
 
Hi 3000 users, do you use sealing ring at rotor side?
It seems there is a big risk for shaving problems?

If so will remove this sealing ring...

Thank you.
 
Hello all, I FINALLY got my motor opened nicely, once I realized the freewheel needed to be taken off :oops:

Anyone know where to buy a cheap freewheel removal tool?
Basically two pins on the threaded thingy to hold the freewheel in place.
I just used a flat head screwdriver, jammed it in one of the two holes and went CW.
It worked, though I had no way of really tightening it to begin with.
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What tooth count are you guys using for the freewheel?
Mine lined up nicely, changes gears good, although sometimes when I am not paying attention it will jam against gears/hub. 5 gear freewheel, on a 6 or 7 gear shift shifter.
Are you guys able to put on a 6 gear freewheel?
Whats the benefit of a single gear in the rear, besides losing the rear derailleur. I like the idea of changing gears to help the motor, especially up hills, and speed cruising.
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My middle hall sensor seems to be "Not Flush", on its left side, its down by one millimeter, while its right side is flush. Is this a problem?
I plan to stock up on some Honeywell SS41, either from digikey.com or mouser or lyen.
Is that a confirmed product number for our MXUS 3000W V2 Hall Sensors?
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Also, I have some scratches on the magnets. I read John in CR says they have a coating on them. Is this a problem.

Best shown the way it is, right at the bright spot, best picture I could get.
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End Plate/Cover screws, someone said m5x15mm, I measure tread length, I get 10mm. Is it prefered to have it Hex Key?
Anyone know what size hex key the stock m5's are?
I have both sae and metric, but for some reason I was stripping the hex side. Now I know they are cheap, thats why.
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I got a line on small quantity. You guys name it
12 AWG PTFE Wire - Military Grade PTFE (Teflon) Wire
Click to expand...
My guy calls it
PTFE Silver Plated Stranded Copper Wire - HIGH TEMP --- MIL-SPEC
Click to expand...
and its $0.50/ft. With matching colors too Blue, Green and Yellow.
Its a shame he is out of 8awg, but I will do the 12awg to just outside of motor, then 10awg, same PTFE stuff. 19awg is only $0.70/ft from this guy. I like the bonding technique of flaying strands, wrap it around and use another wire to enclose it. I will do that for sure. Love that idea.
I will be buying extra wire. If any of you fabulous Canadians need some High Temp Mil Spec PTFE Teflon, give me a PM. I have no clue what postage would be. I think its like 6-7 inches from strand connection to outside shaft. Probably could do it in a letter envelope if the weight is valid for that method.

John in CR - I read about what you did. I maybe confused, 18awg phase wires? or is that halls?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1047632
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1049763
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1049777
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1049927
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1049940
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1051560
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=66625&hilit=Improving+mxus&start=100#p1051782


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The additional fine guage white wire. Is that the temprature sensor wire? If so I saw it next to my 3 halls.
Is that a good location for it, or have you guys moved it to a more appropriate heat sensor spot.
How do I monitor the temprature with this wire, does the CA have a temp input?
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I bought some automotive Permatex - Red RTV High Temp Gasket Maker - For High Temprature Applications and Sealant 343C /650F. For the entry/exits of shaft.
Is this the right product?
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Twist tie idea is good along with spring. What diameter and length of spring you buy? Because I will be ordering this online eBay or something.
Does it just go a bit ways into the shaft, like an inch into the shaft, then maybe an inch or so out of shaft, or does it go all the way through.
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99% vw 100% PWM, does it make a difference?
Click to expand...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52589
Still unsure about this one - But I will read it and see.
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My next thing is, I went to Home Depot and Canadian Tire aka Crappy Tire. I want to find the appropriate Diaelectric Urathane Varnish, someone used CRC Red Electric Urathane. I couldnt find much at home depot. Its all furniture stuff, and rust paint etc. Krylon website has a Clear Polyurethane Coatings, which states flexible film ideal fro sealing electrical and electronic parts, exception resistance to oils, greases and chemicals. HD has a Minwax, polyurethane aersol - satin for $10, which was the average price for their instore varnishes.

Someone mentions
Pitch matt black has higher heat emission so you will get a cooler motor as well.
Click to expand...
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icecube runs 80A battery and about 160A phase current on shortened stock wires.
john in cr is running 100A and 250A phase current with a reset 99% value as mentioned.

Is this the norm? 80-100A and 160-250A.
 
Markz,

I don't have a MXUS3000, so any controller settings I use don't apply, except that I totally disagree with the 2.5:1 or so phase:battery current limit ratio used so widely. It's only applicable to very low power rigs, and on higher power rigs it creates unnecessary excess heat especially during partial throttle operation on hills. FWIW Zombiess came to the same conclusion. My approach to tuning controller setting came from posts by MWKeefer about 5 years ago, not copy the guy who melted a lot of motors and doesn't even still have a running ebike who first posted the 2.5:1 ratio.

Regarding my use of 18ga wire, you must be referring to wire harness upgrades using magnet wire all the way to the outside of the motor. Yes I use multiple strands of 18ga for each phase. I use the method so the strands of all 3 phases (plus 22ga magnet wire for the halls, temp sensor, etc) can be put into a single insulated round bundle for the most copper I can get through the axle.

Your picture is of the stator, not the magnets, but both get scraped during disassembly and reassembly. I don't bother to paint the inside of motors. The higher quality motors I've had included some type of very thin rust prevention coating on the ends of the stator laminations to prevent corrosion, something more like a magnet wire coating than a paint. The reason I don't paint is that it fills in the crevices in the exposed copper for less surface area for heat convection, and I haven't found the proper selective coatings in terms of thermal radiation. Thermal limits would be a big consideration too, so no way just a regular black spray paint. The magnets are nickel plated, and I have no idea what coating would stick to them.

John
 
markz said:
What grade or class of magnet wire do you use?
Click to expand...

No idea, though 180° kinda rings a bell. I bought the 2 spools back before I knew much of anything about electrics, and I thought I'd rewind a motor, which never happened. I bought whatever the guy at the wire shop in town suggested as long as the price difference wasn't big.

markz said:
So you dont suggest to paint the Aluminum stator, makes sense to me with the cooling idea, what about the metal with round holes in it,
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63142&hilit=mxus+3000&start=150#p948633
Click to expand...

The stamped steel stator is already painted, so I wouldn't touch it unless I got my hands on a high emissivity / low absorption selective coating. The aluminum I'd probably paint next time, since the dull cast aluminum doesn't emit IR very well.

My focus would be on the cast aluminum covers. First, even if keeping it sealed I'd increase the surface area (making many straight radial cuts much of the way through, or added heat sink fins, and bolted+epoxied angled blades to increase turbulence especially at the copper end windings as close as I dare while allowing for some lateral movement of the rotor relative to the stator.)

The head scratcher is coating or not on the inside of the cover. Quick searches don't tell me how good the dull cast aluminum is at absorption. My gut tells me it's pretty good. What you don't want is a high emissivity coating on the inside to simply radiate heat back at the stator. Outside you want a good emitter but not a good IR absorber to absorb radiant heat from being in the sun or from hot roadways.

Outside I would also want to increase surface area and add blades. On one side the blades would extend past the perimeter, because with my current ventilation blades in that setup showed with a dense smoke test that the blades caused a big flow of air from the other side not only through the motor, but even more across the outside of the shell.

I run at high rpm and have had no trouble opening motors to the outside world, and my ventilation approach works good enough to not try further improvements, so this is more a mental exercise.

John
 
markz said:
--------------------------------------------------------
My middle hall sensor seems to be "Not Flush", on its left side, its down by one millimeter, while its right side is flush. Is this a problem?
I plan to stock up on some Honeywell SS41, either from digikey.com or mouser or lyen.
Is that a confirmed product number for our MXUS 3000W V2 Hall Sensors?
--------------------------------------------------------
Click to expand...

on half of my motors i also had this problem with the middle hall sensor. i believe this will result in more delay on this sensor and this cannot be good for efficiency and performance.
i do not think its necessary to change the halls, but as example honeywell ss413a have higher temperature rating and lower temperature drift. those would be best choice IMO if you want to swap them.
and never mix up different types. always all of the same type.
 
Hey is the first one on the list good to buy for a replacement, or should I not mix one hall with the others and buy 3 and when one goes replace all 3?
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=ss413a


I think I lost some of my washers when I opened my mxus 3000w v2 up. I have 2 remaining in the tote box and have no clue where they go.

I cant wait for my order to get here
PTFE Silver Plated Stranded Copper Wire HIGH TEMP --- MIL-SPEC

Out of Green so ordered White instead, Blue, Yellow all in 12 guage, each 6 foot lengths. $0.55/ft
Blue, Green, White all in 10 guage, each 6 foot lengths. $0.70/ft
CTS Poteniometer - 1 meg Linear with PC mount also at $1.50 ea
Total came to $40usd so $55cdn, seems like a lot to upgrade wires.
If anyone wants some wire, let me know, I will see how I can setup my paypal account to accept payments.
 
Hi

I'm trying to decide between a 26 or 24 inch rim for a Mxus v2 4t motor.
Will be using a 26 inch front so would like to keep it the same for rear.
Will the 4t be overstressed in a 26 rim.
 
i depends on many things if the motor will be overstressed in 26" wheel or not, but one thing is clear: in 26" wheel it needs about 7% more current to produce the same thrust as in 24" wheel.
more current = more heat. P loss = I² x R
personally i would not go above 24" - preferably smaller like 17" moped rim (22" OD with 2,5" tires) ;)
 
John in CR said:
Markz,

I don't have a MXUS3000, so any controller settings I use don't apply, except that I totally disagree with the 2.5:1 or so phase:battery current limit ratio used so widely. It's only applicable to very low power rigs, and on higher power rigs it creates unnecessary excess heat especially during partial throttle operation on hills. FWIW Zombiess came to the same conclusion. My approach to tuning controller setting came from posts by MWKeefer about 5 years ago, not copy the guy who melted a lot of motors and doesn't even still have a running ebike who first posted the 2.5:1 ratio.


John
Click to expand...

Very interesting, what do you use if i can ask :?:
 
I snipped off the old msxus 3000 v2 phase wires, and tried to install ONLY two 12awg Turnigy wires and its a VERY tight fight through the shaft.
What am I suppose to do? I was thinking about stripping the insulation and using some of my heat shrink tube to gain some more space.
My 10awg and 12awg PTFE wires I ordered are lost in the mail, so I was thinking I could just use the 12awg Turnigy wires until it exits the hub then I can use my Turnigy 8awg wires to the controller. Then I noticed my hall wires have nicks on them so I will replace those too, what is the guage wire for the halls and can I go smaller to gain more room in the shaft space.

edit:
So I shouldn't even bother with heat shrink tubing around bare 12awg phase wire, b/c its going to be 160 phase amps, plus it gets hot in the motor?

Also, I was able to get two Turnigy 12awg wires in without stripping the insulation, a third Turnigy 12awg wire seems impossible. I will keep trying. Might try putting a thin "crap-o-rama" dollar store picture wire through, tie to 3rd wire and pull AND push it through. I have my hall wires completely out.

by teslanv » Sat May 16, 2015 8:05 am

Allex wrote:
I believe that 12AWG is sufficient for this motor at least for this particular one. Dont think 10AWG would fit in there.


Agreed. 12AWG (4mm2) through the axle. Splice to bigger wire if you like, once outside the axle.

I managed to get 12AWG PTFE wire through the axle without too much trouble, and the PTFE insulation is far superior to heat shrink tubing.
Click to expand...
Turnigy 12awg wire then might have thicker insulation then PTFE
 
markz said:
Then I noticed my hall wires have nicks on them so I will replace those too, what is the guage wire for the halls and can I go smaller to gain more room in the shaft space.
Click to expand...

There ain't much current going through the wires to the halls so using thinner wires should not be a problem.
 
Yeah, I used 36AWG Teflon coated wires for my halls and temp sensors to make extra space in my fan cooled HS4080:

Works well as long as you are careful when installing.
P1070414.jpg


The hard part is threading them all through your heat-shrink and the axle so that none of them twist or over-lap unneccisarily:
DSC_2331.jpg

DSC_2332.jpg


More details here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=56965&start=350#p1085820

Cheers
 
I have kept trying to fit the three 12 guage Turnigy phase wire through the axle and it just does not fit, I dont know what else to do.
If the Turnigy dont fit, then my PTFE wont fit either.
 
markz said:
I have kept trying to fit the three 12 guage Turnigy phase wire through the axle and it just does not fit, I dont know what else to do.
If the Turnigy dont fit, then my PTFE wont fit either.
Click to expand...
You have to remove the outer silicone layer and replace with heat-shrink. That's the only way you will fit 12AWG wire.
As others have mentioned, the heat-shrink can soften when hot, but the point is with bigger wires things won't get as hot in the first place. I also joined the 12AWG to 8AWG just outside the axle. This does 2 things; 1 reduces resistance; and 2 acts as a heat-sink to draw heat out.
If your worried about it you can also put 2 layers of heat-shrink and might still be less thick than the silicone layer, but would make it harder to fit. Just make sure you use the smallest diameter heat-shrink possible or it won't fit cause it will still be too thick.
I stretched out some very small diameter heat-shrink to do mine above. In my case because I have the fans also, I had to fit two 14AWG wires for them, which I also replaced the silicone outer-sheath with heat-shrink.
I also used a rotary tool to grind a small <2mm amount of material out of the axle slot making it easier to fit, but if you only have phases and halls to worry about then this probably isn't necessary.

Cheers
 
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