Intense M3 + Clyte HT3525 + HD video

[Timma2500]

Hey all,

A new build for the new year coming up. After much thought i've decided to go with a hub motor for this build, a first for me as i usually prefer to run through the cranks.
The main reason i normally go for a mid drive is dictated by the trails i normally ride, or more specifically the monster hills i seek out! :lol:

However there are much flatter, open and undulating trails much closer to my home and some others further south of here which i intend on exploring soon which dont really need the slow speed torque / climbing ability that the Cyclone is capable of, therefore they are the perfect hunting ground for a hubby :wink:

Now i don't have the $$$ needed to buy a Stealth Fighter or Bomber so i've decided to build something that sits in between these two models in terms of spec and performance and hopefully in some ways like weight, exceeds them

Spec:
Frame: 2007 Intense M3 frame, modified front end
Forks: 2009 200mm 888RCV Bombers
Rear Shock: 2009 Fox DHX5.0, Titanium spring
Rear travel: 241mm

Seat: 2012 WTB V Speed
Seat post: Carbonfibre
Stem: Sunline direct bolt on 45mm
Handlebar: RaceFace Next carbon fibre riser bar
Grips: ODI Lock-on 90mm GripShift version

Motor: Crystalyte HT3525 - sensored, cooling holes, wire mod, 3mm re-drilled spoke holes
Controller: 18Fet 4110, 84v / 70a (Cell_Man)
Batteries: 20s Lipo, 15ah - 6 x 10s 5ah Turnigy Nano-Tech stick packs - 1260whr (10ah for now)
Power meter:Large screen CA in frame just behind head tube

Wheels: 26" Sun Ringle MTX 33 welded camo rims. 13g Sapim spokes on rear
Tyres: 2.7" Maxxis Minion DH 60a / 42a, front tyre used on rear
Brakes: Hope M4, 203mm floating rotors f & r , braided lines

Shifter: Sram X0 gripshift on LHS handlebar
Derailiur Sram X5
Cranks: Shimano Saint DH with Renthal 34t chainring
Chain device: E*Thirteen LG1 with bashguard

Torque Arms: 2 x custom with pinch bolts, 10mm thick mild steel
Wheelbase: 1204mm

Target weight: 35 -38kg. Final weight - 35kg with 10ah pack.




View attachment 4View attachment 3View attachment 2

As usual, the frame will be cut and a 145mm high by 100mm wide 3mm aluminium box will be TIG welded on the front to hold the batteries and bolt the controller underneath. Two lipo sticks will sit the full length of the frame with a group of 4 sticks sitting above them in the middle in a 2 x 2 pattern. Overall side view won't look too different from the standard frame apart from the controller and rear hub

I won't get much done on this build 'till i finish a frame for a fellow ES member that i've already taken too long to get through as it is for various reasons.
Once his frame is finished, i'll be all over this build as well as transferring the Cyclone kit from my Specialized to my original Norco frame along with similar frame mods to it too.

Frame work will probably commence in mid Jan 2012


Paul


Edited a few times to update photos, parts list and specs, fix typos and edit title.

 

[Kepler]

This will be an interesting build for sure and a great comparison to your crank driven stuff. Jester might even like this frock setup :lol:

May I suggest you go with the 18fet if you plan on 5kW peaks. Even beefed up, I think you will be pushing the friendship with the 12 fet.

 

[etard]

WATCH OUT welding those Aluminum frames, you MUST heat treat or you WILL CERTAINLY DIE!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I stumbled into the Intense factory not far from my home one day, and have always wanted one, didn't know they sold those to Aussies though. Should be a killer build, keep us posted Paul.

I can't for the life of me, figure out why you wouldn't want to spend $10,000 on a Stealth Ebike, I mean, to go through all this trouble to save $7000 you must be in dire straights! :wink:

 

[Justtoby]

WATCH OUT welding those Aluminum frames, you MUST heat treat or you WILL CERTAINLY DIE!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:


I can't for the life of me, figure out why you wouldn't want to spend $10,000 on a Stealth Ebike, I mean, to go through all this trouble to save $7000 you must be in dire straights! :wink:

Your quip doesn't add up.....that bike must be 3000 dollars worth or more, decent batteries will be a few thousand (especially if you went lifepo for ease and safety) then the hub motor 1000, controller, twist throttle, and then you are left with a bike that has spring rates too low for the weight, inferior brakes (I suspect) and no suntour crank, jus noisy rear gears. It wouldn't be warrantied either.


Having said all that....I LOVE this project, design and light weight nature.....will be awesome.!

 

[etard]

WATCH OUT welding those Aluminum frames, you MUST heat treat or you WILL CERTAINLY DIE!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:


I can't for the life of me, figure out why you wouldn't want to spend $10,000 on a Stealth Ebike, I mean, to go through all this trouble to save $7000 you must be in dire straights! :wink:

Your quip doesn't add up.....that bike must be 3000 dollars worth or more, decent batteries will be a few thousand (especially if you went lifepo for ease and safety) then the hub motor 1000, controller, twist throttle, and then you are left with a bike that has spring rates too low for the weight, inferior brakes (I suspect) and no suntour crank, jus noisy rear gears. It wouldn't be warrantied either.


Having said all that....I LOVE this project, design and light weight nature.....will be awesome.!

Dude, I'm fairly certain that bike is worth about $1400 as it sits, it's 5 years old and looks to be fairly well used. Fox DHX 5.0 FTW though! Another $1000 for motor, controller and throttle, leaves $600 for batteries and such. Even if you spent an extra $1000 Paul could build 2 ebikes for the price of a Stealth. To me, that's like paying a ton of taxes for a dirty government and then a Monarchy on top of that. :lol: :wink:

 

[voicecoils]

Nice frame choice, ambitious weight goal!

For weight reference, my HT motor with 13/14ga spokes, Sun MTX 39 rim, Hookworm 26x2.5", tube and Tuffy Lite liner weigh 10.24 kg

 

[dogman dan]

Looks like a sweet ride coming up. Bolt on pinch dropouts for the win. Might consider carrying just 10 ah of battery, but have another 10 ah easily swappable.

 

[bigmoose]

WATCH OUT welding those Aluminum frames, you MUST heat treat (after welding)...

Just wanted to ensure this piece of advice got caught. Welding on aluminum removes all of the heat treatment in the heat affected zone even if done with TIG. For example 6061T6 aluminum alloy has a yield of 40000 psi and a elongation at break of 12%. Dead soft it becomes 6061T0 with a yield of 8000 psi and an elongation at break of 25 to 30%

I have heard of DIY heat treatments, but best bet to a professional that can put the completed frame in his heat treatment furnace.

 

[Timma2500]

Cheers guys, i'm really looking forward to this build. I wish i could start it sooner but I leave for a 10 day trip to Bali on Saturday so i've had to save my pennys up for the trip instead of important stuff like bulding ebikes...

This will be an interesting build for sure and a great comparison to your crank driven stuff. Jester might even like this frock setup

May I suggest you go with the 18fet if you plan on 5kW peaks. Even beefed up, I think you will be pushing the friendship with the 12 fet.

I just wish i could run the same power through the Cyclone setup for a real direct comparison but alas we know how that'd end... in smoke or broken planet gears!
Haha, i think Kim will disown me and tell me to frock off when he see's this thread!
Cool I was leaning towards an 18fet, just to be on the safe side

WATCH OUT welding those Aluminum frames, you MUST heat treat or you WILL CERTAINLY DIE!!!!!!!

LMAO! The end is nigh!!!

I stumbled into the Intense factory not far from my home one day, and have always wanted one, didn't know they sold those to Aussies though. Should be a killer build, keep us posted Paul.

Cheers Etard, what was the factory like? Yeah i've always wanted one too and a San Andreas - one day
Some Aussie must have smuggled it into the country, illegaly by boat perhaps...

I can't for the life of me, figure out why you wouldn't want to spend $10,000 on a Stealth Ebike, I mean, to go through all this trouble to save $7000 you must be in dire straights!

Lol, considering the comments below, i aint touching that one!!!

Your quip doesn't add up.....that bike must be 3000 dollars worth or more, decent batteries will be a few thousand (especially if you went lifepo for ease and safety) then the hub motor 1000, controller, twist throttle, and then you are left with a bike that has spring rates too low for the weight, inferior brakes (I suspect) and no suntour crank, jus noisy rear gears. It wouldn't be warrantied either.

They are disgustingly expensive brand new, hence why i bought a 2nd hand frame
I paid $500AUD for the frame locally, that included the titanium spring on a dead shock, Shimano Saint DH cranks, an E-13 chain device and a recent suspension bearing replacement, not bad hey!
Bearing in mind the guy was atleast 25kg heavier than i (67kg), i'd say the rear Ti spring will be fine for my total bike and body weight. If not, a little extra sag out of 229mm travel won't be a bad thing.
On cost, some of the parts i already have - wheels minus rear hub and spokes, Bomber forks, Ti spring, DHX5.0 shock, 203mm rotors, seat, seatpost, cranks, chain device, sunline stem and wattmeter so that takes care of a fair chunk of the cost. Of the major parts yet to buy the costs are roughly: Nano-Tech 20s 15ah lipo - $700, Ht3525 inc spokes & freight (i will build wheel) $550, 18fet - $350?, brakes - $360... All up i'd say it'll cost around $4500AUD including the parts i already have and have paid for previously. I buy carefully and manage to find a previous year's model alot cheaper than the current year's offering where possible.

As for brakes, i'd go Shimano Saint with 203mm rotors over Gatorbrake any day considering the reviews i've read. I had the old Shimano XT 4 pot brakes and they were brutal, the Saints should be similar, plus pads and spares are far easier to find.

The Suntour gearbox i'm glad to do without, if it brakes as Dlogics and Dave.A's have, you either need major skills to fix yourself (and hope you don't need parts plus you void its warranty if you open it up) or send it somewhere to be fixed meaning a delay before you can use the bike again.
If my derailiur plays up, i can fix it easily myself or stop in at my local bike shop on the way home, buy another and be back riding in half an hr :wink:
Bearing in mind i pedal alot to help extend range and performance, the Fighter's limited 2spd setup would frustrate me! I'm fussy with cadence speeds...

Re the warranty, the moment you change a Stealth to Lipo or modify it electrically i'd assume you'd wave goodbye to the warrenty anyway wouldn't you?

Even if you spent an extra $1000 Paul could build 2 ebikes for the price of a Stealth.

Spot on, it'll come in about half the price of a Bomber with most of the performane.

Nice frame choice, ambitious weight goal!

For weight reference, my HT motor with 13/14ga spokes, Sun MTX 39 rim, Hookworm 26x2.5", tube and Tuffy Lite liner weigh 10.24 kg

Yeah maybe too ambitious but you've gotta aim low with some things sometimes! If it comes in around 32 - 33kgs, i'd be a happy camper.
What brand of spokes are you using? Are you happy with their strength / reliability?

Looks like a sweet ride coming up. Bolt on pinch dropouts for the win. Might consider carrying just 10 ah of battery, but have another 10 ah easily swappable.

Yep, ya gotta clamp those suckers in tight. 10ah would be easier and lighter to carry but i'd like a little extra range. I contemplated 20ah but the frame size would blow out too much!

Just wanted to ensure this piece of advice got caught. Welding on aluminum removes all of the heat treatment in the heat affected zone even if done with TIG. For example 6061T6 aluminum alloy has a yield of 40000 psi and a elongation at break of 12%. Dead soft it becomes 6061T0 with a yield of 8000 psi and an elongation at break of 25 to 30%

I have heard of DIY heat treatments, but best bet to a professional that can put the completed frame in his heat treatment furnace.

Cheers Bigmoose, welding ally sure does reduce its strength in the heat affected zone. I've put my last frame to the test after welding it and its come through fine so far so hopefully that luck will continue with this frame

Oh crap i've rambled on, long post, sorry guys!

Paul

 

[1000w]

Good work Paul, a nice collection of parts you are gathering.
I'm looking forward to this build and to Kim's reaction.
Cheers,
Matt.P.

 

[Justtoby]

I won't derail this awesome thread by commenting more, my point was not to run down the stealths unless you compare apples with apples, ie if comparing costs then compare NEW price against new price and same spec....I can build a Ferrari replica out of Vw parts second hand but you cannot run down the new ferraris in comparison.....

 

[Whiplash]

True, but I am the type of guy that would build a VW that would SMOKE the Ferrari and I would hedge a bet that Timma is too! If he gets close to the same power output as the Bomber, but with 30-50LBS less weight, I would have to say it would blow the Bomer away... But maybe not I guess....

 

[full-throttle]

Wow! Sweet build! Looking forward to see how it goes.

I paid $500AUD for the frame locally, that included the titanium spring on a dead shock

DHX shocks are real easy to service. It's prob just got air past the IFP (you must have pressure in the external reservoir )

There's a great rebuild guide online http://www.mediafire.com/?lotejczmzz0, written by Nick_M2r http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=80536

 

[keyne]

Great looking project, I'll be keeping an eye on this one. You'll have to try really hard to keep it under 30kg though.

I'll second the DHX rebuild, not hard at all once you know how.

I'd go with a 12FET controller. I'd think the motor will be the weakest leak in terms of heat, I've never seen my 18Fet controller go over 45deg, but I've basically killed two motors through impatience.

 

[AussieJester]

I'm looking forward to this build and to Kim's reaction.

Im more looking forward to Paul's
Reaction after spending 4500 grand
And finding how poor it handles offroad in
Comparison to his specilized... I will
Be very supportive, as you can well
imagine

KiM

 

[Timma2500]

Cheers Matt, any progress with your Reign? Hey where'd you get it acid dipped? Did they sting you much?

Sorry Toby, i hope i didn't hit a nerve mate I know what your saying, but i'm like Whiplash, i'd rather build than buy :wink:

Thanks for the tip Full-Throttle, but the DHX5.0 is brand new. It was a Marzocchi Rocco that was dead as a door nail. The bloke forewarned me it was dead and gave me the frame much cheaper because of it. Ofcourse i didn't tell him i already had the DHX there waiting to fit lol...

Ta Keyne - yeah the 30kg target will be hard to meet with the Bomber forks, HT and 1260wh of lipo but we'll see how close i can get. Under 33kg would be good
Hyena also suggested a 12fet would be enough so i'm really not sure which way to go with this. I'd prefer an 18fet for peace of mind but the 12fet is alot smaller physically and easier to package on the frame... I wont be ordering from Lyen for a while so i've got time to mull it over and make a decision. Btw i love your DH comp build, those covers look great!

Haha i bet you'll be supportive Kim! :wink: I'm only going to use it on the relatively smooth trails down here in Rocko and the ones down outside Donnybrook, not the rough as guts trails up at Roleystone so it should be ok for its intended purpose. And also group rides just to stir you haha!
The Norco / Cyclone rebuild will handle the rough stuff


Paul

 

[Justtoby]

Sorry Toby, i hope i didn't hit a nerve mate I know what your saying, but i'm like Whiplash, i'd rather build than buy :wink:


Paul

No offence taken at all. Stealths just take a bashing on self build sites and just wanted to defend a little. I am slowly building Patriot in to an E bike and I own a Bomber so looking at it from both sides of the fence.

 

[Garrick_s]

Curious as to if you plan on a Direct Drive hub motor or a geared one (maybe I missed it in the thread).
I eventually went through two geared hubs and ended up with a direct drive.

The "clutch"...for a lack of better terminology, just couldn't hack it.

I miss the torque, range and weight savings of the geared hub, but the top speed of the Direct along with the abuse it can take, was worth it.

Just two more cents for you to put toward your new build.

I have been looking at the Specialized Demo 8 frames for such a build (as far as modifying the frame).
So I will be watching this build to see how it goes.
Good luck!

 

[Timma2500]

I had a surprise today, I'd mentioned to my girlfriend that CRC had free shipping till today so she and my mother plotted together and gave me $200 for Xmas to spend on the build, you rock girls!

It worked out really well, as CRC has another offer at the moment that if you spend $200AUD, you get $30 off your purchases at the checkout so the following was $210, my cost was $180 with no shipping as a bonus, sweet!







So i've ordered the 2.7" Maxxis Minions, Renthal 34t Ultralite chainring, DH tubes and some ODI Lockjaw clamps for the ODI half grips i've already got tucked away.
I'd read that a few top racers like to use a front Minion tyre on the rear as well so i went this route, ordering a hard compound for the rear and a super sticky soft compound for the front.


Apparently these XO 9spd shifters can be used with an 8spd freewheel as well, i hope so as i've got a spare here already. I use one on the LHS on the Specialized and love it as it moves it away from the throttle and keeps things un-cluttered on the bars.

I am slowly building Patriot in to an E bike

I've got a soft spot for the Orange bikes too, i'd love to convert a 224 :wink: I hope your going to start a build thread? Hub or mid-drive?

Curious as to if you plan on a Direct Drive hub motor or a geared one (maybe I missed it in the thread).
I eventually went through two geared hubs and ended up with a direct drive.

The "clutch"...for a lack of better terminology, just couldn't hack it.

I miss the torque, range and weight savings of the geared hub, but the top speed of the Direct along with the abuse it can take, was worth it.

Just two more cents for you to put toward your new build.

I have been looking at the Specialized Demo 8 frames for such a build (as far as modifying the frame).

Hi Garrick, i was going to use a Mac for its lighter weight and torque as well but was worried about the clutch and or gears not being up to task on dirt.
So i'm going to use a sensored Clyte HT3525 from Hyena on 84v / 60a peak.
You went for a 9C didn't you?

Those Demo frames i reckon would be a good one to convert, are you going to do a complete front end chop?

Paul


Edited typos...

 

[sn0wchyld]

Cheers Matt, any progress with your Reign? Hey where'd you get it acid dipped? Did they sting you much?

Sorry Toby, i hope i didn't hit a nerve mate I know what your saying, but i'm like Whiplash, i'd rather build than buy :wink:

Thanks for the tip Full-Throttle, but the DHX5.0 is brand new. It was a Marzocchi Rocco that was dead as a door nail. The bloke forewarned me it was dead and gave me the frame much cheaper because of it. Ofcourse i didn't tell him i already had the DHX there waiting to fit lol...

Ta Keyne - yeah the 30kg target will be hard to meet with the Bomber forks, HT and 1260wh of lipo but we'll see how close i can get. Under 33kg would be good
Hyena also suggested a 12fet would be enough so i'm really not sure which way to go with this. I'd prefer an 18fet for peace of mind but the 12fet is alot smaller physically and easier to package on the frame... I wont be ordering from Lyen for a while so i've got time to mull it over and make a decision. Btw i love your DH comp build, those covers look great!

Haha i bet you'll be supportive Kim! :wink: I'm only going to use it on the relatively smooth trails down here in Rocko and the ones down outside Donnybrook, not the rough as guts trails up at Roleystone so it should be ok for its intended purpose. And also group rides just to stir you haha!
The Norco / Cyclone rebuild will handle the rough stuff


Paul

I'd back hyena and say a 12 is plenty, particually given your using a HT. run 24s lipo an hold on, these motors pull like a mule with just the default settings (40a)! up a 20% grade at about 40km/h! 18 is overkill, participially for flat ground/small hills. depends on how much boggy acceleration you'll be doing though. 18fet will likely burn this motor in quick order unless you ride nice.

good frame choice, are they removable dropouts i see :wink: ?

and yea, go for atleast 13g spokes, possibly 12. ive been snapping swiss SS 14g spokes like there twigs, its the low down torque combined with any type of shock on the wheel that kills 'em most, but normal riding will still break them eventually. im ordering some 12's off JHH and drilling out the eyelets asap.

how much is the bike before any additions? doing it with 1200wh's of batteries is going to be a challenge (my norko with 1kwh is about 40kg...)

Are you modding the frame on this one too? looking forward to what this becomes, I loved your last build. It is one of the inspirations for my new build, a old avanti d8 that'll be modded to house the bats much like yours.



ps
i generally ride fairly 'gently' but my 12fet never gets hot even with big climbs, 40's been about the max its gotten to, 50deg for the motor (on the outer case).

 

[Justtoby]

I plan to use a hub motor and I am toying with getting a spare rear for my bomber with the high speed wind, I can stick it on my bomber and put the high torque in the patriot but swap back and forwards. The patriot is a nice frame but not sure which mine is. Brendan Fairclough (world down hill champ) lives near me. And has a few patriots in his workshop. It they are heavily outnumbered by 2013 carbon specialised downhill bikes as they. Ow sponsor him.

 

[Kepler]

I'd back hyena and say a 12 is plenty, particually given your using a HT. run 24s lipo an hold on, these motors pull like a mule with just the default settings (40a)! up a 20% grade at about 40km/h! 18 is overkill, participially for flat ground/small hills. depends on how much boggy acceleration you'll be doing though. 18fet will likely burn this motor in quick order unless you ride nice.

Hyena knows his stuff that's for sure. A 12 fet will probably be up to the task. Worth mentioning though that Stealth Fighters using basically the same motor now all run 18fet controllers. I am tipping there is a very good reason for this :wink:

 

[full-throttle]

good frame choice

This is what this bike is capable of in the hands of an aussie

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/231118/

 

[sn0wchyld]

I'd back hyena and say a 12 is plenty, particually given your using a HT. run 24s lipo an hold on, these motors pull like a mule with just the default settings (40a)! up a 20% grade at about 40km/h! 18 is overkill, participially for flat ground/small hills. depends on how much boggy acceleration you'll be doing though. 18fet will likely burn this motor in quick order unless you ride nice.

Hyena knows his stuff that's for sure. A 12 fet will probably be up to the task. Worth mentioning though that Stealth Fighters using basically the same motor now all run 18fet controllers. I am tipping there is a very good reason for this :wink:

dont stealth's have temp monitoring that cuts power when things get to hot? if I had a temp probe, 18 would be fine... mind you, it'd also be much harder to mount.

 

[Timma2500]

I'd back hyena and say a 12 is plenty, particually given your using a HT. run 24s lipo an hold on, these motors pull like a mule with just the default settings (40a)! up a 20% grade at about 40km/h! 18 is overkill, participially for flat ground/small hills. depends on how much boggy acceleration you'll be doing though. 18fet will likely burn this motor in quick order unless you ride nice.

Hmm so if i go for a 12fet, i risk blowing it up if i get too throttle happy and carried away. If i go for the 18fet, i risk burning up the motor? Would the 18fet supply the current in a more agressive manor?

good frame choice, are they removable dropouts i see ?

Why yes they are :wink:
Though i won't totally rely on them to resist the hub's torque, i plan on welding some gussets to the swingarm just in front of the dropout mounts and also bolting the torque arms to these to help disperse the force.

and yea, go for atleast 13g spokes, possibly 12. ive been snapping swiss SS 14g spokes like there twigs, its the low down torque combined with any type of shock on the wheel that kills 'em most, but normal riding will still break them eventually. im ordering some 12's off JHH and drilling out the eyelets asap.

I wonder if ya can get 12/13g hybrid spokes, 12g at the flange and 13g at the threaded end? I'd rather not have to drill out the eyelets if possible.

how much is the bike before any additions? doing it with 1200wh's of batteries is going to be a challenge (my norko with 1kwh is about 40kg...)

Reading this made me go out and weigh the bike. With everything on the pre-e converted bike apart from the back wheel and brake lever/callipers, it sits at 18kg. Factor in 10kg for the complete rear wheel, 9kg of lipo and around 3kg for the brakes, controller and aluminium box and i'm up to 40kg like your Norco
Oh well never mind, it'll still come in about 15kg lighter than a Bomber so i'm ok with that. I only weigh 67kg so the all up rider and bike weight will still be reasonably light compared to others.

Are you modding the frame on this one too? looking forward to what this becomes, I loved your last build. It is one of the inspirations for my new build, a old avanti d8 that'll be modded to house the bats much like yours.

Yep its getting the chop too, the black lines on the frame pic in the 1st post show where its getting cut and where the battery cover will be on the LHS. The D8's were chrome moly weren't they? Should be a solid platform to build with

I plan to use a hub motor and I am toying with getting a spare rear for my bomber with the high speed wind, I can stick it on my bomber and put the high torque in the patriot but swap back and forwards. The patriot is a nice frame but not sure which mine is. Brendan Fairclough (world down hill champ) lives near me. And has a few patriots in his workshop. It they are heavily outnumbered by 2013 carbon specialised downhill bikes as they. Ow sponsor him.

Nice one, that'll give you good flexibility being able to swap them back and forth. Are you going to get one of Brendan Fairclough's old patriots?!!
Man he and Sam Hill are bloody fast riders!

Hyena knows his stuff that's for sure. A 12 fet will probably be up to the task. Worth mentioning though that Stealth Fighters using basically the same motor now all run 18fet controllers. I am tipping there is a very good reason for this

Bugger it, i feel like flipping some coins "two up" style and basing my decision on that! Damned if i do and damned if i don't!

This is what this bike is capable of in the hands of an aussie

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/231118/

good frame choice

Holy crap he is a freak of nature! I was lucky enough to meet Chris Kovarik back when i was friends with the then owner of Ashgrove Cycles who sponsored Chris as he was just getting into pro downhilling. Back then (circa 1997ish?) Chris was still working as a labourer if i remember correctly, nice guy too.

dont stealth's have temp monitoring that cuts power when things get too hot? if I had a temp probe, 18 would be fine... mind you, it'd also be much harder to mount.

One of the other boys will have to comment on the temp probe thing. Mounting an 18fet doesn't worry me, thats easy enough


Well i'm off to Bali at 4am tomorrow so will bid you all farewell for this year, thanks for taking the time to add your input to my humble thread, stay safe and have a wonderful Xmas and New Years everyone I'll try to get to a net cafe or something similar when i'm either not inebriated or perving on scantlly clad young ladies on the beach :wink:


Paul