SplatMatic69er said:
So I bought a used bbshd a few nights ago. The seller said the only problem was that when he replaced the nylon gear he installed it incorrectly,
If a gear is not correctly installed, the system may not operate, as it might not be able to turn correctly, and cause very high load on the motor and controller. (I don't know the specifics of the gear in question, so you'd have to check the BBSHD threads about them to get details).
Did the system ever operate for you? Not just turn on, but actually run and ride normally. (I ask questions like this because it is important to know what already worked and what didn't, in any troubleshooting. We only know what you tell us specifically, everything else we have to guess or assume, which doesn't help troubleshooting--only hard facts do that
).
If not, then if the gear was never reinstalled correctly (presently we have to assume that is the case given no information saying that it was) you need to disassemble it to correcly install this gear (assuming it has not been damaged by the incorrect install, and that no ohter parts were damaged either). There are various threads about such repairs on BBSHD systems that should help you with this. Whether this will fix your posted problem depends on the actual cause of the problem you're having...but it's still something that needs to be fixed.
The controller happened to be a ludicrous, he didn't know it was an aftermarket controller. So this controller is new to my battery.
Did your battery work on a previous system, or is it at this point still untested (beyond the results posted in this thread)?
If it worked before, what was the previous system it worked on?
My battery has upp's 'grade A cells', not LG or Samsung. Bottom of the barrel 52 volts battery they offer.
Then it probably also has the cheapest BMS, which means it probably has no balancing function. That means that the unmatched cells used in it will probably get more unbalanced (unequal in voltage, with less and less charge in some cells vs others) over time. The harder it is used, and the farther it is discharged each time, the faster this generally occurs. It's a common problem in cheap battery packs. This doesn't affect the problem you have now, but it is something to keep an eye on for the future, especially if there is no balancing function built into the BMS.
I looked at the provided link, but unfortunately they don't give specifics of the battery you actually have there, just generic information that doesn't narrow down exact parts installed in your battery or how they work (like whether it has a balancing BMS or not, or how the system is wired (like relays or thermal cutouts, etc, that could cause clicks).
The only BMS info they have is
BMS safety protection system to prevent battery damage
Using intelligent BMS detection system, when the battery is high temperature and high pressure, it will automatically start the BMS protection system to cut off the power supply to prevent the battery from igniting. To provide you with security guarantee!
which has at least one mistranslation or incorrect statement in it: there is no pressure sensor on any of these BMSs to tell what cell pressure is--the sensor would really have to be inside each cell to correctly check this, anyway, and that is definitely not the case, so it can't tell if the battery is "high pressure". It *might* have a temperature sensor mounted in the middle of the cell pack somewhere that is wired to the BMS to tell if it is high temperature, though most BMS don't have this (especially the cheap ones). Some have one onboard the BMS but that can't tell what temperature the battery itself is, only the BMS component closest to the sensor.
They also claim
Authentic and reliable A-grade battery, long battery life, waterproof!
The unit pack power uses A-grade battery cells, and the battery life is much higher than other similar batteries! And with waterproof design, don't worry about your battery getting rained
but this is unlikely to be true; it might be water resistant but most of the cases like this I've encountered aren't glued or otherwise sealed shut, just screwed together with no seal between case halves, and most don't have seals at the switch, keylock, or charge / discharge connectors. Yours might be different, but another something to watch out for over time.
When I hooked it up to my battery the controller turned on, display works, speed sensor works, programming works, basically all worked except pas and throttle
If those don't work, then that means the motor does not operate at all, does not turn the chainring (since throttle and PAS are the ways to make that happen). Some systems have a Walk Mode you can engage with a button press or combination--does the system operate correctly using that? (you can check the BBSHD manual for how to engage this function if it exists).
I thought the controller was making a slight clicking sound but I was wrong, it's my battery making the clicking sounds when I engage the throttle.
There should be nothing inside the battery to make a click, with a couple of possible exceptions. A click is usually made by a relay, and other than high-powered expensive BMSs for large high-power batteries (also expensive) I am not aware of any BMSs that use relays. The other exception is an overtemperature sensor that rather than reporting actual temperatures to a BMS simply acts as a thermal switch beyond some unsafe high limit (often using ones designed around 70 degrees C). These will click very very softly once when disconnecting, then after the thing they are touching that got them so hot finally cools down enough, they'll do it again as they reconnect, but it is not immediate, and can take minutes to turn back on depending on the temperature increase and thermal mass of the thing that got hot.
In either case, the battery's BMS would shut off it's output when the click happens, turning all power to the rest of the system off, and you would see nothing on the display, no controller response, no lights, etc. If that isn't happening, either the BMS in the pack is broken or otherwise not working correctly, or the click you're hearing is not something in the BMS function or control.
Sometimes a spark on a broken connection or very bad solder joint (that didnt' actually make a connection) will sound like a click. There are a number of high-current connections inside the battery that could cause that if they're not made correctly, but it would require opening the battery to find them.
I got inside the programming and lowered the amps to 14, then 12 then 1amp. When I dropped it to 1 amp I got the motor to engage just a little, turning the chainring like a quarter inch...
Do you mean the BBSHD (controller) programming? (presumably via the display?)
Best guess with info posted so far then is that the battery is unable to supply current without extreme voltage drop. The voltage drop then causes either:
--controller LVC to engage, turning off controller response to control inputs, but leaving controller / display powered on.
--battery LVC to engage, turning off battery power entirely, and turning off controller / display completely.
Such voltage drop can come from a battery that is essentially completely discharged (empty) or that is so imbalanced that at least one group of cells is empty (or is defective or improperly connected and has such high internal resistance that any current flow thru it causes it's voltage to drop below cutoff point).
What does the battery voltage measure, using a voltmeter set to 200VDC, on the battery output terminals connected to the controller itself? First test with the system turned off, then with it on but not trying to use it, then when trying to use it. Note down each voltage here in the thread, and it may tell us enough about the battery condition to begin diagnosing it.
