My new controllers Votol EM-30S, EM-50-4 and EM-100 GTS

DeNew Lab

10 W
Joined
Aug 21, 2024
Messages
72
Location
France
Hello everyone.
I decided to write about my experience with the VOTOL controller, namely EM-30s.
I don't need more current, etc.

I'm tired of box controllers with snot, it's boring )) I decided to launch Votol, because all my friends sold it and bought boxes )) I couldn't cope with it.

I'll say one thing, whoever has enough patience will love the VOTOL controller, for me it is ideal, one minus, there is no documentation.

What is available, an electric bike KugooKirin, the motor in it is unlikely to be less than 1000 W, as far as I know.

Li-ion battery 16S8P 60V 21A with an intelligent BMS system.
Цзябаида BMS.JPG

What can I say about the engine:

12-inch hub motor,

60 magnets, which corresponds to 30 pairs of poles.

54 windings, each phase is wound with 0.5 mm wire (without varnish) 14 wires.

Why I decided to replace the original controller, it worked perfectly, the traction is fire, the speed with my weight of 84 kg. plus a bicycle of 55...57 kg. was exactly 50 km\h. The original controller is in the photo.
IMG_20240706_183336.jpg

But the weird thing is that the cruise control in it did not turn off, it is not programmable, and there are no wires for this on the outside. And I almost crashed, in short, replacement...

my old controller, (12 transistors)

The controller was bought EM-30s + Z6 knobs, the no name display works on 1 line (pulse packets)

The first thing I achieved was the correct connection, pairing with the controller, the color scheme of the phase and Hall wires is different, which is normal for a motor without a name.

The test in the controller gave me a clear result, -61 degrees without ticks of switching phases or Hall, rotation where it should be.

And so 3 long days)) of dancing in a tambourine, and the engine started working at 3 speed quietly without jerking at idle, well I think hurray, I drove off, at a speed of about 11..13 km/h a breakdown, roar and an error on the display MOTOR, in short I turned it off, stopped, the engine wheezed and the error went away, okay, I got home at 5 km/h, and set other numbers, now it works perfectly cleanly, no matter how you turn the gas handle. This point is in the photo (instead of 9000 I set 15000).


You can drive without any questions, the controller temperature is 35 degrees. I brought the sensor to the panel to see, the sensor is glued to the radiator.

But the grip is weak, the car is very slow and does not crawl up a very steep slope.

Where exactly to dig parameters, if you have experience, I will be grateful to know what I did not have time to understand;)

all screenshots of pages

screenshot_04.jpgscreenshot_05.jpgscreenshot_06.jpgscreenshot_07.jpg


Block diagram.
block diagram.JPG
 
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I put the controller in my feet, but it was behind me, under the seat, there was zero access...

I also added a temperature sensor, and the radiators are blown while driving. The box is IP68 plastic
1726456865572.jpg1726456770757.jpg1726456770772.jpg1726456770790.jpg

I do not use connectors, only soldering, reliability is higher when shaking.
1726456770697.jpg1726456770740.jpg1726456865562.jpg
 
What is 1-line for the display? It's simple, these are packets of prime angle pulses, very similar to a TV remote control)) They are loaded into the display cell from the controller, and the registers in the display are pushed onto the LEDs)

speed2.jpg

speed.jpg
pulse narrower on the left, wider on the right - 1 speed.
wider on the left, narrower on the right - 2 speed.
wider on the left, wider on the right - 3 speed.
 
Maybe I finished tuning the engine.
It works perfectly for me, I don't hear any sound from the engine (frequency) at all, whether it's idle, uphill, downhill, etc... I have nothing else to tune.
Recuperation works in all places)) the speed in a straight line is clearly kept at 74 km/h the record has been set ))
Page1.jpgPage2.jpgPage3.jpgPage4.jpgPage5.jpg



I love Votol ;) there is nothing better than it.
Photos of my settings where something was changed every day.


In particular, I found a topic, changing the same numbers of the F-W value 2150 max and
HDC 2150 max the more digits, the more torque, maintaining the idle RPM.

And the test was carried out on a serpentine road 40...50 km distance, where there are hills and descents, etc.. I'm already familiar to people there, I ride))
And I increased the current to 37 amperes 1 page and sport.
When driving non-stop for 20 km, the controller is 35 degrees, the engine is barely warm when touching with the palm where the tire (windings) is.
 

Attachments

  • Config.ini
    482 bytes · Views: 34
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Good, working scheme, I assembled it, (author AntonChip)
Turn signals with sound.
View attachment 359807
Does the ecu overheat when driving at high speed, do you have the ecu .bin file and can you share it?
Maybe I finished tuning the engine.
It works perfectly for me, I don't hear any sound from the engine (frequency) at all, whether it's idle, uphill, downhill, etc... I have nothing else to tune.
Recuperation works in all places)) the speed in a straight line is clearly kept at 74 km/h the record has been set ))
View attachment 359942View attachment 359943View attachment 359944View attachment 359945View attachment 359946



I love Votol ;) there is nothing better than it.
Photos of my settings where something was changed every day.


In particular, I found a topic, changing the same numbers of the F-W value 2150 max and
HDC 2150 max the more digits, the more torque, maintaining the idle RPM.

And the test was carried out on a serpentine road 40...50 km distance, where there are hills and descents, etc.. I'm already familiar to people there, I ride))
And I increased the current to 37 amperes 1 page and sport.
When driving non-stop for 20 km, the controller is 35 degrees, the engine is barely warm when touching with the palm where the tire (windings) is.
 
I've been wanting to make a temperature sensor in the engine for a long time, and now it's happened, I replaced the engine with a more powerful one, and it would be a sin not to install a sensor, I bought a different cable 3+6 wires.
In the ports, set the value (PA11- 53:Ext_temperatrue_MF52_103_B3380) And no problem, it works ))
Temp.jpgTemp2.jpgTemp3.jpg
 
Finished my scooter by summer.
On the side of the box is a switch for temperature, ecu or motor, very convenient.
Waiting for summer....

1736500375071.jpg1736500375059.jpg1736500375050.jpg

New settings ecu.
screenshot_04.jpgscreenshot_05.jpgscreenshot_06.jpgscreenshot_07.jpg
 
New option for connecting VOTOL to USB
USB Type-C to TTL on FT232RL
FT232-3.jpg

Works perfectly!

5 Volts no longer need to be connected to the board, it is powered by USB, only 3 wires, RX-TX and GND.

1737398529006.jpg1737398528981.jpg1737398528961.jpg1737398528949.jpg


And the cable with PL2303 is a very bad connection...
 
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I was playing with degrees)
How is it correct, it is not clear, +60 is possible, I do not see a difference at any speed, everything is smooth, no noise, idle or load.
But -60 in my opinion is the correct synchronization.

HALL-60.JPGHALL60-2.JPG
-60

HALL60.JPGHALL60-2.JPGHALL60-3.JPG
+60

Current SPORT.jpg
 
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I drew a picture of the controller port to understand who and where the wires are at the connector.
Everything that is here in the photo, in fact, was originally assigned by the manufacturer and I did not change it.
For the (self-testing) mode, I always have 22:LY_e_gear set to (SWD) and if necessary, just check the box (LA) and turn off and on the ignition switch for the test, then remove the checkbox (LA).
Ports ECU EM30s.JPG Ports em30.jpg
 
I have a 1200 Watt engine (and not necessarily) and warm from EM30, why would I need more than EM50-4 ))) no, I don't need it, I'll burn the engine... And I can't really replace the engine, the frame is narrow, so there's no point.
And secondly, there is no room for a larger controller, everything is limited. Everything is within wild limits, and I can't change the transport, I roll it home on the elevator to the 12th floor )))
And I bought a new controller EM50-4, CAN version + Bluetooth for 63.6$, I think it's good :)
 
I have a 1200 Watt engine (and not necessarily) and warm from EM30, why would I need more than EM50-4 ))) no, I don't need it, I'll burn the engine... And I can't really replace the engine, the frame is narrow, so there's no point.
And secondly, there is no room for a larger controller, everything is limited. Everything is within wild limits, and I can't change the transport, I roll it home on the elevator to the 12th floor )))
And I bought a new controller EM50-4, CAN version + Bluetooth for 63.6$, I think it's good :)
That Bluetooth is scam it work only with VeeChat ))
 
The new ECU arrived + speedometer SCJ5066-1. I set everything up as usual, it's simple, the ports are a bit different from EM30.
The bracket for this display is not sold, I made my own.
Кронштейн Спидометра.jpg
Material: 3mm aluminum.
1751194262134.jpg1751194262128.jpg1751331339612.jpgIMG_20250629_175305.jpgIMG_20250629_175315.jpg

While the weather is bad, there is no opportunity to test.

IMG_20250628_095925.jpgIMG_20250628_155832.jpgIMG_20250628_155845.jpgIMG_20250629_175409.jpg

 
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I tested everything, rode without sparing the battery, the current on the controller is set to 45 maximum Amperes, this was more than enough, for a 75 km trip distance, the maximum speed is 80 km / h and the remaining 9% charge. I am satisfied with the result.
All that remains is to move the battery, re-weld the frame and that's it.
 
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