Over tightened M14 axel bolt

[chrisvoi]

Ok here's where it started ,, I was given a 1000w voilamart wheel and other bits to get me started, since then I've sorted the battery and other bits and everything for the most part has me perfect, the wheel came with couple spokes missing buckled rough and dusty , once I'd fixed all the issues the wheel runs great no issues ... BUT every couple of rides I would have to tighten up the M14 axel bolts to stop a loose wobble the wheel had wasn't really a problem but ovb wasn't supposed to be like this , I then replaced both sealed bearings from inside the hub because I thought maybe this could be the issue, they where sweet ,, but replaced anyway, since then I've just had to tighten them up hoping to grab some nylon type locking nuts next time the wheel had to come off ..... SO recently I've gone to tighten the nut in question and it literally turns on the axel doesn't tighten up anymore , although it isn't loose and cannot be turned by hand how am I or could I remove this but to inspect whether I've threaded the nut or the axel thread one being easy fix another being a complete pain, btw all washers are in good placement and tourqe arm installed ect and I presume I've overtightened the nut as I have been using a crossbar style thing used for car wheels ! Does the job any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanx .

 

[chrisvoi]

Bad presumption. These axles are not that strong and have been known to break, strip, and crack before.

Oh I'm hoping that's the worst case scenario I'd just have to look for a used wheel at that point, because ATM it's fine as it is but as soon as I have to splitt the nut , that will determine the future of the 6k miles wheel saved from the scrap man.

 

[E-HP]

If you post a pic of your dropouts, it may be possible to fabricate and bolt on some clamping dropouts that would eliminate the nuts all together and the torque arm too. Use the search tool for some examples

Giant DH Comp Drop Out adapters and conversion

OH. MY. LANTA. Awesome! Did you end up putting in the pinch bolts?

endless-sphere.com

 

[chrisvoi]

If you post a pic of your dropouts, it may be possible to fabricate and bolt on some clamping dropouts that would eliminate the nuts all together and the torque arm too. Use the search tool for some examples

Giant DH Comp Drop Out adapters and conversion

OH. MY. LANTA. Awesome! Did you end up putting in the pinch bolts?

endless-sphere.com

I can try find a pic , the kit is on a boardman , it just seems the nuts have to be super tight to get the wobble stop but if go to tight it almost stops the wheel

 

[chrisvoi]

It's the drive side the problem is

 

[AGS]

If you are having to tighten the wheel nuts that tight to stop the wheel wobbling then your problem could be worn motor bearings.

And if you have stripped the threads on the axle then you may as well buy a new motor mounted in a wheel.

Here is a link to Voillamart Uk. But you can probably fInd a better motor for around the same price. Voilamart motors aren’t that marvellous.

And it’s direct drive, so you may want to consider switching to a geared hub motor for that bike.

Motor Wheels - Hub Motor

Default Description

www.voilamart.co.uk

 

[chrisvoi]

If you are having to tighten the wheel nuts that tight to stop the wheel wobbling then your problem could be worn motor bearings.

And if you have stripped the threads on the axle then you may as well buy a new motor mounted in a wheel.

Here is a link to Voillamart Uk. But you can probably fInd a better motor for around the same price. Voilamart motors aren’t that marvellous.

And it’s direct drive, so you may want to consider switching to a geared hub motor for that bike.

Motor Wheels - Hub Motor

Default Description

www.voilamart.co.uk

Yeah i gather voilamart isn't the best but seemed to have served me well I'm just tryner squeeze all out of it , I have changed the bearings inside when I first built but didn't sort it , but if makes sence my tightening does sort the problem every time, just only for few days, the motor pulls strong and I hit 33 comfortablly , can I ask what difference would a geared motor give me in comparison, sorry for my limited knowledge this is first build with mostly free parts , other than my scooter battery btw inside the motor is super clean and lower wise havnt had a problem, sounds smooth runs smooth

 

[E-HP]

It's the drive side the problem is

To me, it looks like you could fabricate something, since a lot of the surface is flat, and there are some existing holes for mounting. That rear brake disc alignment looks terrible. Only 40% or so of the pad is making contact with the disc. I had a similar situation and as soon as the pads wore to the width of the disc, there was no braking at all since the pads were contacting each other.

 

[chrisvoi]

To me, it looks like you could fabricate something, since a lot of the surface is flat, and there are some existing holes for mounting. That rear brake disc alignment looks terrible. Only 40% or so of the pad is making contact with the disc. I had a similar situation and as soon as the pads wore to the width of the disc, there was no braking at all since the pads were contacting each other.

Yes I've sorted the brake problem that is a older pic the caliper was to close to the hub so had to be sat higher now the whole pad is used, I only fixed because of a persistent squeak on the brakes , and making something myself ,, how would I effectively clamp it down, I imagine it really would wobble ?

 

[99t4]

...how would I effectively clamp it down, I imagine it really would wobble ?

Pinch clamp, or clamping dropout, it's like locking the axle in a vise, did you look at the link?

BTW, your existing TA is the absolute worst, possibly not even better than nothing.

If the torque arm fits tightly to the axle, there should be no movement or loosening. If its one like this, it's just for show and almost useless:

 

[99t4]

...how would I effectively clamp it down, I imagine it really would wobble ?

Here is a crude example of a clamping dropout:

When this dropout is securely fastened to the frame, that axle is not going anywhere, doesn't even need axle nuts.

 

[gromike]

Are you running regen on it?

 

[chrisvoi]

Here is a crude example of a clamping dropout:

When this dropout is securely fastened to the frame, that axle is not going anywhere, doesn't even need axle nuts.

I agree this ovb is much better , but still don't see how it's going to solve my problem ? My axel doesn't move atall , it's stays put perfectly tight even with the cheap TA ,, ITS THE HUB that moves on the axel is the problem, it's the squeezing together as the nuts tighten down that helps? I don't see how these type of clamp would effectively pull the drop outs together , it's also a squared axel so slots into the drop out snug and stays

 

[chrisvoi]

Are you running regen on it?

No regen no ,, I don't think my wheel or control does that ?