This is what I bought used today E200 with lead acid batteries that do not work.
From the Razor website
E200 deck is 26x8 with 8" tires handlebar is 25x16"
E200S means it has a seat mount
E300 deck is 26.2x8 with 9" tires handlebar is 25x16 thats the only advantage for the E300 is the 9" tire, which has a longer fork.
Started taking it apart with the battery and controller being easy to take out then had to deal with the mess of wires.
Motor you need a mini flat head to take out the connector blade from the housing, but you need to take the tray out before fishing the wire out. You need to slide the rear brake cable out by undoing the rear brake bolt and slide it all the way out.
Tray doesnt come out because the on/off switch and fuse hit the frame. After taking the hot glue off the fuse I just broke the fuse off carefully, there looked to be threads. The front hole on the casing has a split rubber protective ring for the wires. The motor hole ring is not split. The on/off switch is hot glued slightly, take off the glue with your mini flat head screwdriver and use that tool to and push the top down while pushing it inside out of the tray outward and watch it fly out. The Charge port has 3 pins with a ton of hot glue, take that hot snot off so its just loose as it wont come off the wires easily, dont even try to take it off the wires just be sure it comes off the plastic casing. Connector uses 2 pins out of 3, ones doubled up with two wires, pushes out I just snipped the wires off so I didnt lose the positioning.
My stock 200W controller will either be next to the batteries inside the tray area, or if theres enough room under the decking or
by the front wheel on the upwards tube which will be where all the other larger upgraded controllers will go 500W brushed controller used with stock 200W motor to see how far I can push that motor, then 1500W brushless to the ebike motor.
Version 1.1 will be stock 200W controller with 36V Makita/Ryobi battery pack from Home Depot with casing and pcb taken off that is two packs in parallel, the packs have a series of 9Ah, 6Ah, 6Ah, 6Ah that I only get 750wh out of which is 15ah, so half capacity but used in the winter and 3yrs old now on the ebike. Over the years its amazingly balance with the furthest away at 3.90V the rest is 4.08V at a top charge of 40.20V. Last time I checked it was 2 yrs ago. Its only ever charged to 40.20V in bulk while split, has a custom made parallel harness. 40.20V should not hurt the stock controller, controller only from the battery what it needs and that battery can handle 36V 30A all day long, the stock controller is 24V and 8, 9 amps.
As you can see in the pictures, the 36V battery is raised a bit with the plastic encasing off I won't use the plastic casement. I will raise the decking and install my own 3/8" metal deck because the next step after this is to install my own motor which I havent decided on, hub motor or m.d. There is no need to buy old technology brushed motor, just a waste of time and money.
If I did not have any motors laying around or available to me by friends, then I would look into rc motors with an esc for big power or for 1kw then the 1020my motor rated for 1kw the sellers state varying 500w or 800w. Those wont fit under the deck.
In the meantime I plan on using the stock 200W brushed motor and stock controller for the time being and hope I dont wreck the controller with my 41v freshly charged battery, years past on the ebike I drain it to LVC of standard 36V ebike controller.
I dont think I will break the controller lots of people do 36V upgrades. I should buy a cheap brushed 36V controller with a few more amps, and a few more total watts and see how long that 200W motor lasts before being baked.
I have a professionally built 48V 16ah battery that I will carry in a backpack for this stand up scooter once I have the final setup I want That battery is used on my ebike which will now be for shorter trips.
There are two metal support rail rods that go under the battery. The batteries were barely bigger to slide in the other way which would mean I could use the stock decking. A welder would be handy to have but lose a bit of ground clearence.
I have some 1/4" or 1/2" flat stock metal I will cut and use bolts and washers as spacers. The decking I will make for it will extend beyond the rear wheel for a larger motor to be mounted and some bracing and supports like extending the frame back.
Bus drivers had no issues, the scooter with the handlebars up still doesnt take up much space. A childs stroller takes up way more room then a 13+ kids Razor E300 scooter and its much cheaper then the higher priced scooters. Has anyone been able to buy any rental scooters legally other then stealing them from the middle of the sidewalk blocking pedestrians and generally getting in the way of everyone.
I need to find a cheap and easy way to make the handlebars fold. As it is now, I need a allen wrench to loosen the 2 bolts for the clamp, no big deal but I got an idea if I cut the stock handlebar about 12" up from the clamp and use a heavy duty industrial hinge, fill in the stock tube with solid bar metal to beef up the hinge bolt mount and slide a 3' pipe over both ends and either tape or velcro that pipe so it doesnt move upwards, gravity keeps it down and thats the best solution I have come up with thinking about this build the last couple days.
3/8" flat steel thats cut contoured to the frame and does not come back up over the rear wheel but has a square opening for the wheel, keeping the decking entirely flat but going back beyond the rear frame support by about 8" for a motor mount. Have a second piece that is bolted down going over the wheel that you can stand on.