Recycled, tilting, recumbent, reduction-drive trike

O

OCD

100 W
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
161
Location
Nanaimo BC Canada
Put together a test bench of ideas to work with. Originally fwd, I'm playing with V2 now. It's all up and running and a blast to ride. The trike develops some notable G-forces on acceleration. I'm really impressed with the hill climbing ability considering it's not really geared down much. With the controller in the 60amp mode, it likely tops out at about 50kmh on the flat with the pack charged to 84v. It goes fast enough for a non-suspensioned ride. The entire trike is mostly items recycled from other projects or materials on hand. Now as I look at it, maybe 2wd would help offset the left side drive system's torque to the right under hard acceleration. Hmmm...

trikeV2.jpg

Torquey enough that I can't cross the damp lawn without spinning most of the way. I'll have to add a Cycle Analyst to it (once I make a mount) to tame the throttle a little as it's really hard to finesse this thing at low speeds. Off the line, the controller wants to launch from 0 to 20% power as soon as the throttle reacts, but is more easily controllable once you're rolling. These tires need to be upgraded from the cheap flame treads now as well. You can slip small motorcycle tires like a 3.00 x 16 Duro or 3.00 x16 Shinko 244 on these 65mm bicycle hoops with a bit of dish soap. Never have worry about tread wear or flats again.

trikeV2-1.jpg

Got lean? lol :cool:

V2-tilt.jpg
 
Last edited:
OCD said:
. I'll have to add a Cycle Analyst to it (once I make a mount) to tame the throttle a little as it's really hard to finesse this thing at low speeds. Off the line, the controller wants to launch from 0 to 20% power as soon as the throttle reacts, but is more easily controllable once you're rolling. T
Click to expand...
Sometimes just replacing the typical throttle with a different or better one will help. The cable-operated-throttles like these:
1738429223890.png
are much smoother (I use one for a throttle via a metal ATV thumb lever for the occasions I need a throttle, and another one via a brake lever for variable regen control of the phaserunners).
Harrisonpatm made a bracket to mount it on the bars/frame

Bracket mount for Electronic throttle by harrisonpatm | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Mounts a generic cable-pull-style potentiometer throttle to a round frame | Download free 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com www.printables.com


Other options include replacing the probably-hall based throttle you have now with a potentiometer based one (often found on the cheap brushed-motor scooters that use more than just a go-button type) and adding adjustable pots to it's ground and 5v supply, so you can shift it's operating range around to match your physical range control needs. Ideally you'd use a logarithmic pot (like a volume control does) isntead of linear (like most throttles), to have finer control at the low end.


Regarding the rear drive, if it's lefthand only for the motor, and righthand only for pedals, you could combine them and use a peerless-type diff to drive split live axles. That's the plan for this trike, that already has that:
endless-sphere.com

Amberwolf's Schwinn Trike Rebuild / Conversion to Heavy Cargo Hauler

From here: https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/the-sb-cruiser-amberwolfs-2wd-heavy-cargo-trike-dog-carrier.67833/post-1827806 I got an old Schwinn Tri-Wheeler Town and Country (probably the 1971 or 75 or 78 model, based on info from bikehistory.org) from someone I knew from the...
endless-sphere.com endless-sphere.com
though i'm uisng the ends of the axles to drive wheels via chain rather than having them right on the axles (so the cargo area can be below the wheel center, and give a much lower CoG).
 
Amberwolf: That's exactly the throttle that's on it now, I really like them for my build as they are less susseptable to water intrusion compared to a thumb throttle (in the rain). It's pretty easy to dial things right in with a CA, limiting by speed/amps/watts/throttle curves/multiple presets etc. A $300cdn diff would be a nice addition to any project.

I put the Duro 3.00 x 16 motorcycle tire that was originally on my electric drift trike onto the left drive side of the trike today. Although the throttle accleration curve still needs tuning, it increased the traction which reduces the amount of off the line spinning/jerking, although starts are still a greater rush of torque than required. The Duro is about .75" taller than the Kenda Flame which changes the overall ratio a little, plus likely weights 2x as much, so would be harder to accelerate. I've got a spare set of 4 piston caliper Shimano brakes to put on next when I get a chance, it really rips up to speed in top e-gear.

Duro tire 1.jpg
 
OCD said:
Amberwolf: That's exactly the throttle that's on it now, I really like them for my build as they are less susseptable to water intrusion compared to a thumb throttle (in the rain). It's pretty easy to dial things right in with a CA, limiting by speed/amps/watts/throttle curves/multiple presets etc.
Click to expand...

Yes, to both of those. ;)

I don't use most of the CA features, but I use the speed limiter to keep it to 20mph for legal reasons, and it's cadence-pas mode to directly control the speed of the SB Cruiser, so I am not actualy using the throttle most of the time.


OCD said:
A $300cdn diff would be a nice addition to any project.
Click to expand...
Probably doesn't have to be that expensive, if you have sources for used stuff, such as old riding mowers, etc. that use these sorts of things. I haven't run across one yet here, but i'm not trying very hard. Since you have nearly everythign already on there, you don't even need the whole thing, you only need the diff, and fit your existing axles to it. ;)
 
Did someone mention peerless differential ?

peerless-dif.jpeg

New, never used
Surface rust from sitting for a long time.
make offer
so you can estimate shipping to your location
97415 Brooking Oregon
box size 4" X 4" X 40"
15 pounds
 
That's a cool piece PaPaSteve.

Utah Trikes sell a complete diff made from 2 x 16 tooth freewheels that looks fairly easy to reproduce but sells for $341cdn + shipping (if they shipped outside of the US which they don't). I'll likely make my own when I get some time. I'm playing with this in between my four year dune buggy build. :rolleyes:
 
OCD said:
That's a cool piece PaPaSteve.

Utah Trikes sell a complete diff made from 2 x 16 tooth freewheels that looks fairly easy to reproduce but sells for $341cdn + shipping (if they shipped outside of the US which they don't). I'll likely make my own when I get some time. I'm playing with this in between my four year dune buggy build. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
That style is called a "dominate drive" or "Detroit locker"
It functions almost like a limited slip differential but not quite the same.
In a turn the inside wheel ratchets the freewheel and the outside wheel "dominates" the turn radius which adds a slight load on the drive system.
On a pedal bike you can feel the load on the pedals.
With a motor the increase in amp draw would be seen on a gauge.
It is low cost to build and works very well in sand or snow.
I've made a couple dozen using 16T ratchets for these quads.
And have since figured out I could have saved a bunch of machining time by using this type ratchet instead :
FWM-120.jpg

Freewheel Clutch Sprockets For Electric Scooters, Bikes And Go Karts - ElectricScooterParts.com

electric scooter and bike freewheel clutch sprockets. Electric dirt bike freewheel clutch. Electric bicycle freewheel clutch. Electric scooter freewheel clutch mechanism.
electricscooterparts.com electricscooterparts.com

Freewheel to Axle Adapters - ElectricScooterParts.com

Freewheel to axle adapters.
electricscooterparts.com electricscooterparts.com

Rear.jpg

Lateral.jpg
 
Last edited:
OCD said:
Torquey enough that I can't cross the damp lawn without spinning most of the way.
Click to expand...
I think you mean "weight imbalanced enough".
 
I disagree Chalo. When this trike was front wheel drive you would have been correct 100%. This is too much throttle ramp up coupled with crappy Kenda Flame tires which are basically slicks on wet grass. I swapped to a Duro 3.00 x 16 motorcycle tire on the drive side and the trike still launches too hard, but grips much better.
 
OCD said:
I disagree Chalo. When this trike was front wheel drive you would have been correct 100%. This is too much throttle ramp up coupled with crappy Kenda Flame tires which are basically slicks on wet grass. I swapped to a Duro 3.00 x 16 motorcycle tire on the drive side and the trike still launches too hard, but grips much better.
Click to expand...
Oh I see! When I scanned over the thread, I only noticed a front motor in the photo. That's pretty cool. I would crave some power on both rear wheels, though come to think of it, only having pedal drive on one side of my trikes doesn't drive me too crazy.
 
PaPaSteve said:
That style is called a "dominate drive" or "Detroit locker"
It functions almost like a limited slip differential but not quite the same.
In a turn the inside wheel ratchets the freewheel and the outside wheel "dominates" the turn radius which adds a slight load on the drive system.
On a pedal bike you can feel the load on the pedals.
With a motor the increase in amp draw would be seen on a gauge.
It is low cost to build and works very well in sand or snow.
I've made a couple dozen using 16T ratchets for these quads.
And have since figured out I could have saved a bunch of machining time by using this type ratchet instead :
FWM-120.jpg

Freewheel Clutch Sprockets For Electric Scooters, Bikes And Go Karts - ElectricScooterParts.com

electric scooter and bike freewheel clutch sprockets. Electric dirt bike freewheel clutch. Electric bicycle freewheel clutch. Electric scooter freewheel clutch mechanism.
electricscooterparts.com electricscooterparts.com

Freewheel to Axle Adapters - ElectricScooterParts.com

Freewheel to axle adapters.
electricscooterparts.com electricscooterparts.com

View attachment 365141

View attachment 365142
Click to expand...

Thanks for the 'lightbulb moment' PapaSteve, I am assuming you used two of the four bolt freewheels to bolt to/through the centre shell of your diff instead of using a standard freewheel and machining all the relief cuts to capture the freewheel teeth. I didn't get what you were alluding to with the pic at first, but now it makes perfect sense. I have bought adapters/parts from ESP.com but only thought of those flanged freewheels to eliminate motor drag when coasting. Thank you again.
 
Last edited:
Center shell I was making started with a short length of schedule 80 aluminum pipe machined for a 16T freewheel.
Years later, when having the "lightbulb moment" after seeing these bolt on freewheels is to use common standoffs between the freewheels instead of the machined center shell.
Drive sprockets on the electric scooter parts site should round out the project.
Whereas, I made the drive sprocket for the quads.

link to standoffs
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
Super cool bike, how's it corner relative to an upright? like a go kart?
 
neptronix said:
Super cool bike, how's it corner relative to an upright? like a go kart?
Click to expand...
It's so stable I've been known to (nearly) forget to put my feet down when coming to a stop as it feels like a quad bike. The trike handles better than I have the b@lls to push it at this point and will only improve once I have better tires. When I get the Cycle Analyst installed and the controller throttle ramp up is solved, it will be a nice ride. I wonder how it would handle off the line and through the corners if I powered up the old front motor?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top