smdub said:Handy 3-n-1 machine and very nice optical(?) table.
The spark is the inverter's bulk filter capacitors charging up. You need to precharge them or use something like an anti-spark connector (AS90) to do so.
Fuse your battery connection as close to the battery as practical. That MPPT has to be a POS for the price but as long as it works, it works. If something goes wrong you want the fuse to blow and not start a fire. If the failure draws current that is lower than the BMS trip limit it can set the wires on fire. 300W MPPT / 60V = 5A max. So w/ the 1.25x UL fuse derate, look for a 6.5-10A fuse and size wire accordingly. Do similar calcs for the inverter (though it needs ~2x sizing due to the high RMS current on the DC side)
Is your 220V inverter center ground referenced/balanced? Not many cheap ones are. Be careful trying to run to separate 120V circuits from it. It likely wont like unbalanced phases either.
2kWh/100W = 20H of charging for a full charge. (~4days w/ good sun) Wife/kiddo/I can't wait that longIts clever doing what you are doing w/o intermediate storage and having it portable though. Kudos!
Chalo said:You'd best put all those panels on the same horizontal plane. The way they're arranged now, at least one of them will be poorly illuminated at any given time. If they're in series, that will bring the performance of the entire array down to that of the most shaded panel.
3DTOPO said:My thinking with different angles was that it is kind of an average - versus with a plane they all could be at the wrong angle.
Chalo said:3DTOPO said:My thinking with different angles was that it is kind of an average - versus with a plane they all could be at the wrong angle.
If they're in series, the worst one will bottleneck all the others. There's no averaging.
If they're in parallel, then it's more or less as you say, as long as they're diode isolated from each other.
3DTOPO said:Without taking it apart, is there a way to tell how the are wired?
Chalo said:3DTOPO said:Without taking it apart, is there a way to tell how the are wired?
What's the open circuit voltage of the whole thing?
Small solar panels are often configured for 12V applications, so they'll have a sunlit open circuit voltage of about 18V.
Chalo said:to a load that it can support in full sun, then shade one of the squares to see if the output falls on its face.3DTOPO said:Without taking it apart, is there a way to tell how the are wired?
smokey85 said:hi guys new here and new to surron's.. recently purchased an L1E after a ride out it powers on but no motor action and on the dash the battery does not show any voltage also it says error --002 can anyone help please
stuntmanmike said:Been a while since I’ve posted here, I bought my SurRon in 2018 after the initial rave reviews I read about here on ES and have never stopped mod’ing it, the only things I’ve left stock are some covers and trim, belt tensioner and the frame.
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stuntmanmike said:Been a while since I’ve posted here, I bought my SurRon in 2018 after the initial rave reviews I read about here on ES and have never stopped mod’ing it, the only things I’ve left stock are some covers and trim, belt tensioner and the frame.
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efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:missed the Red Bull Tennessee Knockout TKO Hard Enduro??
her is your next chance to Race Electric..
SEER Going Electric!
SEER, South East Extreme Riders, Hard Enduro Race Series adds electric class.. :
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https://seer-racing.com/2022/09/21/seer-going-electric/
Just curious: do they also include the codes with the tester? If not, I wonder why not?Rix said:If you bought it new from Luna, they include a "tester" tool, plug that in to one of the harness plugs, and it will give you a blink code. Note what the blink code is, such as 2 fast 1 slow green/red, something like that, then contact Luna, and they will be able to tell you what the problem is.
stuntmanmike said:Been a while since I’ve posted here, I bought my SurRon in 2018 after the initial rave reviews I read about here on ES and have never stopped mod’ing it, the only things I’ve left stock are some covers and trim, belt tensioner and the frame.
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000AB8E4-50EA-4BE4-BC18-D7283E777DFF.jpeg
9CC73D57-4415-45DD-9EB9-0B2589C2E06C.jpeg
amberwolf said:Just curious: do they also include the codes with the tester? If not, I wonder why not?Rix said:If you bought it new from Luna, they include a "tester" tool, plug that in to one of the harness plugs, and it will give you a blink code. Note what the blink code is, such as 2 fast 1 slow green/red, something like that, then contact Luna, and they will be able to tell you what the problem is.
Quinc said:Anyone try different Jackshaft bearings? NSK/FAG/SKF/etc? Hoping to find a set that lasts longer then the cheaper Chinese and Timken brands. Or if they wear just the same I will stick to the cheaper ones.
Some research shows that NSK Dynamic load is around 1060lbs and static load is 440lbs