TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[coolheizer]

I have now flashed the KT-LCD3-v20.1C.3-LCD3, unfortunately the cruise does not work as it should.

I started the cruise at a fixed speed:

7.0: (1)
7.1: (1)
7.2: (30)
7.3: (1)
9.0: (2)
9.5: (1)

Although cruise is now activated by pressing the button down, there are still errors here:

7.1: (1) the cruise function only works if (1) is selected here, with (0) no cruise function.

7.2: (30) at a set speed of 30kmh the speed is up to 25kmh, at 25kmh to 20kmh etc.

7.3: (1) Display set target speed for cruise, the target speed is shown in the odometer field but cannot be changed.

Under 9.0: (2) I have placed on (2) so that I can check the streets at a police station.
Street mode must also be switched off every time the controller is switched on.
Unfortunately, the cruise function is completely unaffected by this.

 

[mbrusa]

I do not know what to say.
I double checked, on the display side nothing has changed compared to 0.20 beta 1, on the motor side there is a small difference, but it is the same as the 860C version which works.
Unfortunately I don't have an LCD3 to check.

 

[gfmoore]

Hello everybody,
I have released a new version v20.1C.1 for stock display, it is v20.1C with security updates,

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by: "for stock display"?

I have downloaded and flashed the versions that are referenced in your sig by (clicking on the link).
850C_2021_v20.1C.2-bootloader.bin
TSDZ2-v20.1C.3-860C.hex

[Eventually] I have these working and I'm now working through the configurations, but have only gently and quickly tested on a static trainer.

I don't want to burn out my motor, so I hope I'm good to go? :wink:

Gordon

 

[Elinx]

.....
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean by: "for stock display"?..........

Stock display is the display that comes with the tsdz2 and don't need to be flashed as with vlcd3 or 860C.
Mostly these are vlcd5 vlcd6 and XH18, but it could be another display too if it works with original tsdz2 firmware.

Other display's need a different version for that specific display. That is why there are 3 links on the footnote of mbrusa.
If you have a 850C and have used STVP, you don't have the "stock" version, so the message of mbrusa isn't for you.

 

[gfmoore]

...so the message of mbrusa isn't for you.

Cool, cheers :lol:

 

[Blacklite]

[Eventually] I have these working and I'm now working through the configurations
Gordon

There are a lot of settings, but the defaults are sensible. So don’t worry too much about every possibility. I’d say motor voltage, current and power limits, and torque sensor calibration are the important ones. Everything else you’ll know after riding for a bit.

 

[gfmoore]

So I now have OSF installed and the 850c firmware and so far (on the static trainer) so good.

I'm going to be working through the torque config tomorrow if the luggage weighing scales arrive.

Would I be correct in saying that the https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-calibrate-the-torque-sensor doesn't match up with the actual 850c display now?

And I'm reading the TSDZ2-OSF-V20.1C.3-860C-Display-Configuration-Guide.pdf and (yet again) I'm a bit confused.

So for instance I have the current basic torque measurements:



So I should now enter these (and the rest of the measurements when I have them all) somewhere? It seems obvious from the images on the wiki,



but isn't obvious on the guide?

My Torque sensor screen is currently:



But I can't see where to enter the values.
I'm probably being very dense?

Second point is that my two level push button throttle is generating different values (imagine the throttle at half way, full way), yet the speed of the motor seems to be the same for button 1 and button 1and2. Is there some setting for working with the throttle that relates the speed to the value. Speed isn't the right word, torque? Is this connected to having the correct calibration.
Does this make sense to anyone

 

[Elinx]

....
So I should now enter these (and the rest of the measurements when I have them all) somewhere? It seems obvious from the images on the wiki, ....

You confuse the OSF build of Casainho with the build of mbrusa.
mbrusa didn't made an upgrade of Casainho's version, but made a conversion for all displays of mspider65 BT version.
The wiki you refer to is for Casainho's version. There you must do a detailed left-right torque calibration.
mbrusa version needs only zero and max adc calibration and 20-25kg for secure torque reading on display

 

[raylo32]

Exactly... see page 10 of the display configuration instructions .pdf in MBRUSA's most recent release asset list.

https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C/releases

....
So I should now enter these (and the rest of the measurements when I have them all) somewhere? It seems obvious from the images on the wiki, ....

You confuse the OSF build of Casainho with the build of mbrusa.
mbrusa didn't made an upgrade of Casainho's version, but made a conversion for all displays of mspider65 BT version.
The wiki you refer to is for Casainho's version. There you must do a detailed left-right torque calibration.
mbrusa version needs only zero and max adc calibration and 20-25kg for secure torque reading on display

 

[gfmoore]

The wiki you refer to is for Casainho's version. There you must do a detailed left-right torque calibration.
mbrusa version needs only zero and max adc calibration and 20-25kg for secure torque reading on display

Told you I was being dense. Looks like I'll be sending the weighing scale back....

Thanks.

 

[Lii]

Someone tested the firmware with a 500C display? I am interested in the operation of the display only with the basic functions of displaying data like the factory firmware. Thanks.

 

[Lii]

Hello everybody,
After the suspension of the v20.1C.3 version for stock displays, I had identified a potential risk for mosfets in the "save percentage of remaining battery capacity at shutdown".
In motor.c it is the only difference with the versions for 860C and LCD3.
After this change, on the third test run before release, the controller is burned out, there are no obvious burns but one phase is shorted.
I found the brazed fuse holder probably due to bad contact with the fuse, the fuse did not blow. The resulting power surges may have caused the controller to burn out.
I'm sure there's no other reason, however I prefer to release an intermediate version and keep trying v20.1C.3-NEW for a little while longer.
If there is someone brave who wants to participate in the test I can send it in PM.

What kind of transistors burned out? If these are extreme transistors on the board, then it seems I guess what could be the reason. When I installed a new controller in the engine, I found that the controller had a serious cooling problem. Only one side of its body has contact with the engine body. Due to the small volume inside the motor housing, the controller cannot cool normally. Therefore, when installing the controller in the case, I used heatsink paste. This should slightly improve heat dissipation from the controller to the motor housing. Ideally, I would also like to fill the space between the free side of the controller and the motor housing with some kind of heat dissipating gel that can work with a gap of 1-2mm. Does anyone have such experience or thoughts on what kind of heat conductive gel can be used? Also, to improve engine cooling and reduce its weight slightly, several holes can be drilled in the rear lower part of the engine housing. This is the part of the body that is located on the side of the wires under the plastic cover. This part of the engine is not airtight and forms a closed volume that worsens cooling and increases weight.

 

[gfmoore]

Yay, way to go mbrusa et al - thank you very much.

I've done my first test ride - dodging the showers - and it was pretty good.

So from having a TSDZ2 motor that wouldn't assist I now have a motor that provides the assist I was looking for. Success! Well, sort of.

Just a recap: 250W 36volt motor 850 display 36volt battery. Flashed the stock firmware to 48volt and 48volt battery. No real assist, but throttle was grrrreeaaaat, (Tony the Tiger!)

Now OSF firmware and 850c display firmware.
I've set the parameters, including the 3 torque settings, no weight, 25kg and full weight 115kg.
Think I've set everything else???? And I keep reading and reading.

1. It would be useful if the excellent guide had a glossary. There are many terms I don't understand, for instance Street Mode. I know what it is now, but I had to look it up and sometimes things aren't easy to find. There are also many abbreviations - FOC, Field Weakening. Again I've looked it/them up, but I don't think I'm any better off knowing what it is or what it does for me. I sense it's kind of important. I'm sure it's all explained somewhere in ES (Endless Sphere), but it might be helpful if there was a glossary for newbies like me

2. It would also be useful if there was a walk through of what to set and how. You know, first do this, then that, then ... Often I find myself asking: "do I need to set this, what is it anyway, what should the default be for my setup? I know you'll say it's all explained, and it is and I'm sure one day I'll get it, but I don't at the moment.

For example: "Torque Sensor ADC step. A conversion factor of the torque applied to the pedal. It is used to calculate the correct ratio between the assistance factor and the human power (only in “Power assist”), the actual value obtained from the calibration can be entered. This parameter is not used for the calculation of the human power shown on the display."

I keep reading and reading and I don't know what I am supposed to do or what it means. Sorry, I must be getting senile in my old age. What value?

Anyway, I've got a couple of questions:

3) On the 48v stock firmware the throttle was brilliant, it got me up the hill amazingly. On OSF it works, but only at a low level. Now I might have explained that because I couldn't mount the actual throttle on my road bike handlebars (and why is everything designed for mountain bikes!!!!) I created a two push button potential divider to give me half the voltage from the throttle and nearly full voltage from the throttle (full voltage being what the throttle sensor puts out, not the 5v). This worked fine on stock 48volt firmware, but now it only seems to give me one low speed and this is nowhere near the power I was getting. Any suggestions as to what settings I should look at? The power must be there somewhere. Here are the readings I get from the display: 0 -> button 1 = 160 -> button 1/2 = 253 There is no apparent difference in speed or rear wheel rotation between the two when on assist level 1 (or any other level that I noted).

I'd really really like to get back to what I experienced with the stock 48v as it was quite simply brilliant for me.

4) I've only done the ride on Power mode. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be experiencing with torque and the new hybrid? I gave them a quick try, but decided to do my first ride with just power and liked it. I know that it is explained, but what is it supposed to feel like for the other modes? Maybe that is a question that cannot be answered, you have to experience it?

5) I decided that having 9 levels was way too much for my style of riding (and my motor's power I guess) (not that I've done much cycling). I think I would just like four levels - 0, because I really do want to use my own power when possible, I do after all want to lose my substantial weight. (Can throttle be somehow be enabled when in assist level 0) - level 1 to give low assist, level 2 to give moderate assist and level 3 to give full assist. So I set num levels to 3, yes?

Anyway, I note I can set the number of levels, but then what do I do on the screens. On page 12 of the manual it shows a default of 5 and then the levels 1-9 are proportionally increasing? I would have thought, but I'm not sure, that the level 5 should be at the maximum of 250 (254?) I'm assuming that the software ignores any settings of 6-9?

So for me I would set num levels 3
level 1 25
level 2 120
level 3 254
level 4 don't care
level 5 and onward ... don't care.

I assume I have to do this for the other assist modes as well.

I hope peeps will take these questions, observations in the spirit that was intended, not as a criticism, but as a help to other newbies like me. As a (Zen) saying I once read said: "In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's mind there are few." (Uhmm on reading that I hope no expert is insulted, it just means that you now have reduced the possibilities...perhaps! It is a Zen saying after all :lol: )


Thank you again so much for all this work and effort. Without it I'd be throwing £500 in the bin!

Gordon

 

[gfmoore]

Oh, at the risk of creating a controversy and/or posting in the wrong thread, I noted that the manual says:

"Never connect or disconnect the charger from the battery with mains power applied. Always
connect or disconnect mains power before connecting or disconnecting the battery."

Yet I read on https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/new-builder-questions/30401-why-does-my-battery-spark-when-it-s-first-plugged-into-the-charger the exact opposite:

"Tiny isn't a big deal, it's just the difference in voltage between the battery and what the charger is putting out. If you don't have the charger plugged in it will make a pretty big spark and a loud snap when connected. That you don't want because in time it will wear away the connector contacts, it's like electric welding in one respect."

Am I mis-reading?

And should the battery be disconnected from the motor when charging - I have a 2 pole isolator switch between battery and motor.

I bet you hate me! 8)

 

[gfmoore]

I think I'm misreading:

If I split the sentence in the manual as:

"Always connect mains power [to the charger] before connecting [the charger to?] the battery."

Then they match up, don't they.

However: "Always disconnect mains power before disconnecting the battery." Is a little more problematic?

What about the battery being connected to the motor?

 

[gfmoore]

Is there a word document for the manual? I'd like to add in some notes (I could make this available when finished?).

Edit: Ahh, don't worry, I converted it online at https://www.adobe.com/uk/acrobat/online/pdf-to-word.html

 

[Blacklite]

I'd really really like to get back to what I experienced with the stock 48v as it was quite simply brilliant for me.

What are your max power and current settings?

Might be the way my brain works but I found the best way to understand how the different modes calculate assistance was to look at the source code itself - the beauty of course of open source. Have a look in the GitHub repository and ebike_app.c - the functions apply_power_assist(), apply-torque_assist() etc.. the calculations are well commented.

 

[mbrusa]

What kind of transistors burned out? If these are extreme transistors on the board, then it seems I guess what could be the reason. When I installed a new controller in the engine, I found that the controller had a serious cooling problem. Only one side of its body has contact with the engine body. Due to the small volume inside the motor housing, the controller cannot cool normally.
...

In my case it is not a temperature problem, it happened to me starting from a standstill with the engine almost cold. After the first pedal stroke, the display went out.
Back home, I checked the controller, there was low resistance between green and yellow. No apparent burn.
I replaced the controller, the display did not turn on anymore, there was no voltage, the fuse holder had a burnt terminal, probably a bad contact.
The motor has now been running for two weeks with modified v20.1C.3.

 

[James Broadhurst]

I think I'm misreading:

If I split the sentence in the manual as:

"Always connect mains power [to the charger] before connecting [the charger to?] the battery."

Then they match up, don't they.

However: "Always disconnect mains power before disconnecting the battery." Is a little more problematic?

What about the battery being connected to the motor?

When charging, the charger should be connected to the battery first, and then connect the charger to the mains.
Upon completion or on any other occasion, the charger should be disconnected from the mains first, and then disconnect the battery from the charger.
In the first case, with a discharged battery, the charger is trying to get 55v in and that won't be a tiny spark it also might ruin your day if it gets into the battery or controller. This is all Chinese kit and its fine so long as you don't push it too hard.

 

[gfmoore]

What are your max power and current settings?

Thanks Blacklite

My max power is 250 and my max current is 11.

I'm guessing? that though my max power is 250W that is because what the originally firmware allowed and what I bought. Can I up this to 500W?
My reference for this is what jbalat? wrote at https://empoweredpeople.co.uk/2020/05/20/experimenting-with-the-tongsheng-tsdz2-mid-drive-system-part-4/

And what should I enter for Motor Voltage - the 36volt that I bought or the 48v for the battery I am using?

I'll have a look through the code as you suggest

 

[gfmoore]

I've noted an error that occurs on the 850c display when I go to Variables>Speed. I get a screen saying 0x2 0x80060b2
I cannot then do anything with the display except disconnect the power.

All other Variables seem fine including finding the ADC Torque Step which says 29. So I entered this in Torque Settings>Torque Sensor ADC step, though this only has a minimum of 30 allowed. I assume this answers one of the questions/comments I made previously?

Still don't know why I only get an on/off effect for the throttle?

 

[gfmoore]

Sorry, so many questions and queries :sigh

I set the assist levels to 3 and changed the 3 values in each of the assist options as I postulated in a previous post.

I closed and restarted the display. I press up and down and still get 9 levels. Is this by design?

 

[Blacklite]

My max power is 250 and my max current is 11

Try max power at 500W - there’s no hardware difference between the different power versions sold, only the 36v or 48v motors. Saying that if you abuse the motor with over use of the throttle while in the wrong gear going up a hill you might get some overheating issues. Just don’t be stupid with it and you can push the power fairly high. I have some heat mods on mine and happily run 600-700w when required. Without some heat mods and a temperature sensor though I’d limit to 400-500W depending on how hard on the throttle you are.

The motor voltage setting is actually in the code setting the appropriate motor inductance (which depends on number of turns in the motor windings etc etc.) for some of the motor control calculations. It should be set to what the motor physically is, not what voltage is being supplied.

 

[Blacklite]

Still don't know why I only get an on/off effect for the throttle?

I’ve had a quick look in the code and it seems as though the throttle values are mapped from min to max somewhere around 1V to 3.5V (47 to 176 as an 8-bit value % of 5V). I think your button throttle might be very close to the top of this range for both buttons, so you wouldn’t notice much difference.

It’s a pretty easy tweak and recompile if you need to expand that range.

 

[raylo32]

I get that error, too, if I am going through a lot of the menus. For whatever reason when you get to one or another (not always the same) it crashes with that error and the power needs to be disconnected. Upon reboot that problematic menu choice works fine.

I've noted an error that occurs on the 850c display when I go to Variables>Speed. I get a screen saying 0x2 0x80060b2
I cannot then do anything with the display except disconnect the power.

All other Variables seem fine including finding the ADC Torque Step which says 29. So I entered this in Torque Settings>Torque Sensor ADC step, though this only has a minimum of 30 allowed. I assume this answers one of the questions/comments I made previously?

Still don't know why I only get an on/off effect for the throttle?