Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Hi everybody
I need .bin archive for em-150/ 180A controller.
Can't connect to software - communication abnormal.
Early I have not problem but when I do some change my software crashed. When I restart program I take error of connection.
Somebody can help me with this issue?
Moto switching on but can't run.
 
-show error box is of no use (dont touch)
-switch box changes between 3 (three) displays:
1.RPM, volts, current
2.RPM, Qvolt, Dvolt
3.RPM, Qcurrent, Dcurrent

-Qvolt should be between 2000-3000 at hall right sync
-Qcurrent should be optimal 200 at high RPM

If Q values dont change while moving weak flux cal and curr cal them use RESET and CALIBRATION button..
*After you have it calibrated use calibration button and SAVE PARAM button

PM for the bin.. salute

And dont forget to put the right value on flux weakening sport mode RIGHT BOX (100-1200) usually 320
Hi.
I looking for em-150 .bin file. Need them for restore my controller from my moto. Could You give me hand, please?
 
Hi all. Sorry if this in the wrong section but i have the qs 120 v3 mid drive motor with the built in gear reduction and I would like to know if I could run the EM 150 on this motor?. I gather some settings would have to be changed. Has anyone tried this?
 
El firmware "actualizado" muestra la misma versión. No tengo idea si en realidad es diferente. Me envió 2 versiones de firmware, can y non can.

Mándame tu correo electrónico si todavía lo quieres.

SW: 2,32 HW: 1,13
Hola. Tengo 2 controladores em-150 -120A y 180A muertos en mi taller. Se encienden pero no se conectan con el software. Al parecer tienen problemas con el firmware. ¿Podrías enviarme tu .bin, por favor?want to give me them. Need restore my controller for my motobike.
 
Hello, I have been using the em100gtr from AliExpress, I used it on 48v at 50 amp while I built the battery to use 72v, it performed well. my son rode the bike around the yard one time at at 72v and it also performed well, he was in low mode which I had set to 40a. He finished riding and parked the bike. Then yesterday I turned the power on and nothing, I plugged in my laptop and saw an over current fault, after reset the fault is gone but as soon as I turn the throttle it returns, also I can reset and then if I roll the rear wheel it immediately over current faults again. Nothing happened while he was riding, he was pretty gentle with it just riding around the yard.

Before I chalk this up to a bad unit, can someone review my settings please.

I have changed the high speed switch to sport mode, and set sport mode box to empty function

I have set 100a max

I have set battery regen to 0 I believe

And I have set the three speeds to 40-60-100.

I don't see how we could have damaged this controller with the very easy riding around the yard in low mode.
 

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Also I have disconnected the phase wires and put them together and turned the wheel by hand for each combo of wires and they all feel the same, I also tried to check for continuity between the hall sensors, I found nothing abnormal with the motor, I will be trying the motor with a smaller esc later to try and use the auto detect function and check for errors of the motor. But I think this is a controller fault.
 
I assume I should not have continuity between the phase wires and the battery terminal, this indicates a blown mosfet(s)?
 

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Hooking up my ground wire on the em-100 sparked and now the controller no longer works. Anyone know if you can fix this? anyone have a used one they want to sell?

For my kids jetski
I think you’ll find a blown section of ground trace on the PCB, which is easily repaired .., however the 5V supply likely fried, which is not repairable. But since it’s a easy job to repair the trace there’s little harm trying that.
 
Hello everyone,

I have got myself a QS motor and Votol controller and have a couple of questions regarding their configuration.

Firstly my specs:

Battery: 48v 45aH (supports continuous delivery of 50a)
Motor: QS-Motor 1200W 48v magnets height - 27H; 28 magnet pairs
Controller: Votol EM-50s - supports up to 55A, 72v, 1200-2000w motors

My current controller settings as follow:
View attachment 295717
View attachment 295718
View attachment 295719

1st speed

2nd speed

3rd speed

My problem are:

1. It seems that the speed I have on my speedometer is far from the reality. I have tried to run on full speed with GPS on, and usually it is +10-15 km/h difference and it is actually feels that my bike goes faster than it is displayed on speedometer. Any way to fix this through controller settings? I have tried to change "Out-put" settings to "Hall speedometter" and back, to no avail.

2. It seems that I have high final speed, but my torque is somewhat, erm, not too weak, but kinda too soft/gentle (?) for my liking, it just takes a little bit long while motor gets up to speed. Without load, according to speedometer it goes over 100 (3rd video) on 3rd speed, but according to GPS with load (me - 85 kg + bike weight) the quickest I got is 62km/h on flat surface with 60-100% charge. Is there anything I should change optimize in my current settings to get better torque and final speed?
 
Hi I see the post I'm replying to is 3 yrs old. Hopefully you can show me some numbers for a votol em100 to a 48v system.
It is 20AH and 40A max
Are the screenshots you have in the post, all good to try on mine? I mean to say like, they worked with your setup good? I know all setups are different, even if they're the same, but I'd try anything.
Thank, clay
 
Hello
I want to ask, I have a moped with a 10" bldc hub drive, 400 Watt (0,4 kW) 48V, battery uses LTO 24s 55V 10Ah with max continous discharge 100A and peak 200A, controller votol EM-100GTS (72360s).
I set the busbar current to 70-140A (page 1) and the current limiting to 160A (page 2).
no effect at all, output current is stable at 60-70A at 800-870 RPM. RPM cannot be increased any further, it is already at maximum.
Which part is not appropriate for controller settings?
flux weakening value (page 2) if set to exceed 2300 then the bldc will runaway when entering a current of 40A and above.
 

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Right value in 3-speed High seems low (7).
Its explained here page 68.

Your range will be really short with that battery (if your motor don't overheat first).
A 10Ah battery at 1C (1x10Ah) discharge gives 60 minutes.
At 7C (7x10Ah) you can drive 60/7 = 8.5 minutes.
 
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Hello
I want to ask, I have a moped with a 10" bldc hub drive, 400 Watt (0,4 kW) 48V, battery uses LTO 24s 55V 10Ah with max continous discharge 100A and peak 200A, controller votol EM-100GTS (72360s).
I set the busbar current to 70-140A (page 1) and the current limiting to 160A (page 2).
no effect at all, output current is stable at 60-70A at 800-870 RPM. RPM cannot be increased any further, it is already at maximum.
Which part is not appropriate for controller settings?
flux weakening value (page 2) if set to exceed 2300 then the bldc will runaway when entering a current of 40A and above.
Your voltage is displayed as 47.5v? (I don't speak Chinese) but the soft undervoltage setting is 50v!?..... Maybe 45v would be better. But the motor only has 400w power. So you already have about 3200w.....?? With a 400w motor, really?
 
This also happened to me, exactly the same, was running fine then the next time, broken. Did you replace the mosfets?
Hello Bro, what did you changed before it broke?
My em100 GTR is from DUN (max phase is 9000). I have DUN and DKYS em100 and they have HUGE difference even with the same settings.

I am now using em180. It also came with phase current 9000, I wont dare to increase the factory value anymore!

The problem I had with em100 GTR the seller proposed to send me the mosfets and I pay for the shipping and repair by myself OR get another controller and pay the difference, so I got votol em180.

Votol em100 gtr has no identification, I dont know what mosfets works with it. ill keep my faulty votol until the day I get new mosfets
 
if any one interested, thats config from new 100GTR 72400 from MOLISAI store on Ali/
 

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Comparto .ini para votol em-150/180A + hub QS 5000W 17"
.ini para votol em-100 + hub QS 5000W 17"
 

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Hello Bro, what did you changed before it broke?
My em100 GTR is from DUN (max phase is 9000). I have DUN and DKYS em100 and they have HUGE difference even with the same settings.

I am now using em180. It also came with phase current 9000, I wont dare to increase the factory value anymore!

The problem I had with em100 GTR the seller proposed to send me the mosfets and I pay for the shipping and repair by myself OR get another controller and pay the difference, so I got votol em180.

Votol em100 gtr has no identification, I dont know what mosfets works with it. ill keep my faulty votol until the day I get new mosfets
Mine is from dkys. I changed the bus bar amp to 100a, values for the three speed switch to 40,70,100, and did the self learning for my hall sensors, and the throttle ramping to 220. My son and I both rode around the yard a bit, it was fine, he was on the low setting at 40 amps, and was trying to pop wheelies, all was good, then he parked, the next day I went to get it out of the shed and it wouldn't do anything, over current faults when the throttle was touched or the wheel spun manually, then I had continuity between the power and yellow phase so I assumed the mosfets blew. This controller worked well at 48v, but when I upgraded the battery to 72v it died.

I think maybe the "gtr" is not up to the task.
 

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