when my controller has the 40-50 as the max rating which is actually the max?

[moazzz]

hello i a looking to bu a controller for my e scooter not standup like scooter like a moped but scooter yk so anyways it already has a 40 ampere controller at 72v and i found a different controller with 72v but it says 40-50 amp as the max so idk if it will be a upgrade or just same same but different here is the picture of the controller also

 

[E-HP]

hello i a looking to bu a controller for my e scooter not standup like scooter like a moped but scooter yk so anyways it already has a 40 ampere controller at 72v and i found a different controller with 72v but it says 40-50 amp as the max so idk if it will be a upgrade or just same same

if you mean an upgrade in performance, no way to know without knowing the details of your existing controller. Controllers can have the exact same specs on the label, but perform completely different. The seat of the pants performance difference is more related to phase amps not battery amps, and some controllers can output more phase amps with the same battery amps, so need more info.
As far as the ratings of the controller in the pic, it’s basically saying the controller can run higher current at lower voltages and lower current at higher voltages before destroying itself. 36x50 =1,800w. 84x40=3,360w. The higher current limit may be based on component ratings, and the lower current, higher voltage, may be heat related (over 3kW continuous and the controller gets too hot).
If you are going to replace your old controller anyway, you could always try a shunt mod on the old one first to see if that gets you enough performance gain to satisfy you for the time being.

 

[moazzz]

if you mean an upgrade in performance, no way to know without knowing the details of your existing controller. Controllers can have the exact same specs on the label, but perform completely different. The seat of the pants performance difference is more related to phase amps not battery amps, and some controllers can output more phase amps with the same battery amps, so need more info.
As far as the ratings of the controller in the pic, it’s basically saying the controller can run higher current at lower voltages and lower current at higher voltages before destroying itself. 36x50 =1,800w. 84x40=3,360w. The higher current limit may be based on component ratings, and the lower current, higher voltage, may be heat related (over 3kW continuous and the controller gets too hot).
If you are going to replace your old controller anyway, you could always try a shunt mod on the old one first to see if that gets you enough performance gain to satisfy you for the time being.

i do infact have a picture of the old controller but if not for performance related issue i would not be replacing it here is the picture of the specification list of the controller

 

[E-HP]

That’s helpful. Your controller has a 40A continuous rating, but nothing to stop it from outputting significantly more, up to 60A peak. The nice thing it you have a lot of overhead, with the downside being you could potentially fry it if you abuse it (run over 40A continuously). I actually prefer that, since there’s access to that greater current, as long as I pay attention to the risk.
Anyway, it’s really hard to tell if the new controller will be better, since the existing one can output a 4kW+ peak, with an unknown about their phase amp performance.
PS. I really like those cheap controllers with the plug in harnesses. A lot have surprising performance, and have huge heat sinks, and if you get a spare, they are really easy to swap if you fry one while hot rodding/modding it.

 

[moazzz]

That’s helpful. Your controller has a 40A continuous rating, but nothing to stop it from outputting significantly more, up to 60A peak. The nice thing it you have a lot of overhead, with the downside being you could potentially fry it if you abuse it (run over 40A continuously). I actually prefer that, since there’s access to that greater current, as long as I pay attention to the risk.
Anyway, it’s really hard to tell if the new controller will be better, since the existing one can output a 4kW+ peak, with an unknown about their phase amp performance.
PS. I really like those cheap controllers with the plug in harnesses. A lot have surprising performance, and have huge heat sinks, and if you get a spare, they are really easy to swap if you fry one while hot rodding/modding it.

i just need to give a little backstory first here, the orgiinal controller had broke when i tried to shunt it because on e of the capacitors had come off when i was taking off the casing of the controller so then because here in egypt there are hardly any hobby stuff just mostly commercialised scooters if you get me so i had to get the original controller i replaced i have the old one and i cant find any shunts i dont really know what they look like to be honest it has like a 2 layer pcb that is like really weird and it is secured down by none other than triangle screws for some reason so anyways i really want to go 100kmh i now that is kind of a stretch but i feel that the bike is too slow. And the original controller has the same plug in harnesses just customized at different lengths for the frame of the scooter so would it be better to try and repair my old controller and try to shunt it or should i buy the orange one in the first pic(also as a side question do some motorcycle limit the speed through the screen? or theres this weird usb thing that i dont really know what it is that is plugged into the harness maybe its programmable and thats just the program??)

 

[E-HP]

Well you’ll need about 8kW to go 100kmh, but that assumes your motor windings let it spin that fast at 72v. What speed do you get with no load (wheel off the ground, full throttle)? If it’s less than 115-120 kmh with no load, it’s not going to go 100kmh on flat ground unless you go up in voltage or swap out the motor for a faster wind.

 

[moazzz]

Well you’ll need about 8kW to go 100kmh, but that assumes your motor windings let it spin that fast at 72v. What speed do you get with no load (wheel off the ground, full throttle)? If it’s less than 115-120 kmh with no load, it’s not going to go 100kmh on flat ground unless you go up in voltage or swap out the motor for a faster wind.

it is limited to 60kmh even though it goes faster the screen is limited to 60kmh but when flat ground and full throttle it easily gets to 70kmh thats considering that the bike itself is around 120 or 115kg also i think maybe one fo the limiting factors maybe that is 72v but not li ion it is lead acidso i dont know if thats limiting the it its 72v 38ah lead acid

 

[E-HP]

Ya, more power isn't going to get you more speed. You need less that 2400W, or 35A at 72V to go 60kmh. You already have more than enough power; you need a motor with a faster winding/Kv, or go up in voltage; like to 120volts.

 

[moazzz]

Ya, more power isn't going to get you more speed. You need less that 2400W, or 35A at 72V to go 60kmh. You already have more than enough power; you need a motor with a faster winding/Kv, or go up in voltage; like to 120volts.

but wouldnt that mean i need a new controller that can handle 96 to 120 volts? also the lights and stuff run ff 12v buck converter that i think maxes out at 72v also but its is quite easy to increase voltage ill add more batteries inseries but im just asking about rather everything else really also if even 100kmh isnt possible i feel like 90 or 85 is more than enough is just need to know how because it seems that 100 is out of the question for me

 

[E-HP]

You need 8kW and ~120V, or 8kW and a faster wind motor. So you either need a new controller and higher voltage battery (very expensive to find a controller at that voltage level), or a new controller and new faster motor (but I'm not sure there's a faster wind motor that can do it at 72V). There's no cheap solution for you to get to 100kmh.

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

ebikes.ca

 

[moazzz]

You need 8kW and ~120V, or 8kW and a faster wind motor. So you either need a new controller and higher voltage battery (very expensive to find a controller at that voltage level), or a new controller and new faster motor (but I'm not sure there's a faster wind motor that can do it at 72V). There's no cheap solution for you to get to 100kmh.

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

ebikes.ca

View attachment 366882

i know this is kind of stupid but what if i replaced the original capacitors on my "broken" controller and put higher voltage capacitors instead and tried 120v on it i mean im not gonna lose anything from just putting some extra apacitors if ti blows and if it blows i wouldnt lose anything really

 

[E-HP]

i know this is kind of stupid but what if i replaced the original capacitors on my "broken" controller and put higher voltage capacitors instead and tried 120v on it i mean im not gonna lose anything from just putting some extra apacitors if ti blows and if it blows i wouldnt lose anything really

The FETs also have to be able to handle 120V, but it might be an interesting experiment. I tried 96V while testing, and the throttle control was to touchy for normal riding.

 

[moazzz]

The FETs also have to be able to handle 120V, but it might be an interesting experiment. I tried 96V while testing, and the throttle control was to touchy for normal riding.

ik this is a stupid question but are the fets the larger capacitors or the smaller ones??
here is a pic of the controller opened up for reference

 

[E-HP]

A FET is a transistor with three legs. They will likely be on the other side of the board, and attached to the big heat sink, since all the power flows through the FETs and they need to dissipate heat.
Not your controller, but a pic from another ES thread that may be similar to how the FETs are mounted on your controller, on the other side of the board. The FETs are the 6 transistors in the middle, but in this case, it would be hard to see their part numbers.

 

[moazzz]

A FET is a transistor with three legs. They will likely be on the other side of the board, and attached to the big heat sink, since all the power flows through the FETs and they need to dissipate heat.
Not your controller, but a pic from another ES thread that may be similar to how the FETs are mounted on your controller, on the other side of the board. The FETs are the 6 transistors in the middle, but in this case, it would be hard to see their part numbers.

ok in this cas it maybe possible idk but if i cant go modifiying a controller what options do i have or should i just forget it ik options suh as new controllers are on the table but they are closed due to my budget being only 100 usd whoh js a lot in egypt like 5k egp i really had my hopes up for the makerbase vesc 75100 but it wont also get speed

 

[E-HP]

I'm using this cheap $70 controller, shunt modded to 90A. I run it limited to 70A. I keep a spare to plug in if I ever kill it. I've gone 53mph (85kmh) before chickening out, but pretty sure it will hit 55mph on a full charge, with field weakening. It will never get to 60mph (100kmh), without higher voltage or a faster wind motor, but I don't care since my normal riding is at 20 mph anyway. If you want more speed, then the same applies to you. Higher voltage, or faster motor are the only real options. You could buy a controller with field weakening, but that's probably not going to get you there either.

My econo-e-bike

Those 4-pot calipers look like they have a lot of good features. Hope they are easy to set up. What magnetic switches did you order?

endless-sphere.com

 

[moazzz]

I'm using this cheap $70 controller, shunt modded to 90A. I run it limited to 70A. I keep a spare to plug in if I ever kill it. I've gone 53mph (85kmh) before chickening out, but pretty sure it will hit 55mph on a full charge, with field weakening. It will never get to 60mph (100kmh), without higher voltage or a faster wind motor, but I don't care since my normal riding is at 20 mph anyway. If you want more speed, then the same applies to you. Higher voltage, or faster motor are the only real options. You could buy a controller with field weakening, but that's probably not going to get you there either.

My econo-e-bike

Those 4-pot calipers look like they have a lot of good features. Hope they are easy to set up. What magnetic switches did you order?

endless-sphere.com

can you send me a link of where you bought it maybe ill try the same thing

 

[moazzz]

I'm using this cheap $70 controller, shunt modded to 90A. I run it limited to 70A. I keep a spare to plug in if I ever kill it. I've gone 53mph (85kmh) before chickening out, but pretty sure it will hit 55mph on a full charge, with field weakening. It will never get to 60mph (100kmh), without higher voltage or a faster wind motor, but I don't care since my normal riding is at 20 mph anyway. If you want more speed, then the same applies to you. Higher voltage, or faster motor are the only real options. You could buy a controller with field weakening, but that's probably not going to get you there either.

My econo-e-bike

Those 4-pot calipers look like they have a lot of good features. Hope they are easy to set up. What magnetic switches did you order?

endless-sphere.com

so should i just buy the first one adn modify it??

 

[moazzz]

alrightt i opened the old controller idk which id the shunt

 

[moazzz]

can i shunt mod a 1.5kw controller into 5kw for more power or will it be futile for a ebike at 72v ?

 

[offGridDownUnder]

can i shunt mod a 1.5kw controller into 5kw

You are suggesting you take an existing circuit board rated for 1.5kw and run 5kw through it?

Is that what you are asking?

 

[moazzz]

You are suggesting you take an existing circuit board rated for 1.5kw and run 5kw through it?

Is that what you are asking?

shunt modding it extremely like adding some good amount of solder will that work for 5kw or 4kw froma 1.5kw controller?

 

[Chalo]

You'll be dumping about 10 times as much heat into the phase wires and PCB traces, and that's not even getting into the individual components on the PCB. If you want 5kW, use a 5kW rated controller.

But if you're just going to throw the thing away if it won't make 4 to 5kW, then why not try it out and see how long it lasts? Even if it's not quite that much power, maybe it will do the job you want it to do.

 

[moazzz]

You'll be dumping about 10 times as much heat into the phase wires and PCB traces, and that's not even getting into the individual components on the PCB. If you want 5kW, use a 5kW rated controller.

But if you're just going to throw the thing away if it won't make 4 to 5kW, then why not try it out and see how long it lasts? Even if it's not quite that much power, maybe it will do the job you want it to do.

but can it work?

 

[moazzz]

but can it work?

even if it wont be 5kw but like 4 or 3kw