Yeah a little bit of progress. I finished the aluminium dash and mounted it to the bike. I also spun a PCB to go behind the headlight to replace the birds nest of wiring and plugs underneath. Not 100% happy with that part, I think Ill spin that one again with a few tweaks. The dash itself, I think Im going to do one more revision of the pcb, add uart passthrough and put a Bluetooth modem inside it to directly connect to the fardriver phone app without unplugging/replugging. Also completely forgot to add my overcurrent relay which I need for compliance on the road. Basically just an output which will switch if the controller current gets too high. Otherwise I havent been riding the bike much at all. Flat out with work. Probably going to need to pull the battery apart again. Looks like I have a small drain on cell 3, probably from when they got overloaded at the drags. I did capacity cycle tests on them afterwards and they seemed ok but I think sitting in the hot shed over summer has kickstarted some self draining. Very slow but I do wanna fix it. Will just replace all the cells in cell 3.It has been a while since we heard anything, any progress?
My BMS doesnt have overcurrent protection, just monitors the cells. For road compliance you need to have a contactor to disconnect the main battery and it must open when the key is turned off. Ive done that bit. ADR also want overcurrent protection. You can use a fuse but your also allowed to just measure the current and open the relay if it exceeds the rated current. Given Im reading current from the controller, not a shunt, I doubt it will protect anything as a short externally from the pack will not register a current. Could probably do it based on voltage sag as well I suppose. Probably all irrelevent as I get the impression if I dot most of the i's the engineer wont mind. A lot of the rules are based around cars. I also need to fit a second 12v battery which can run the lights for 30 min. Ill fit it for engineering then remove it.Alright interesting, pictures of the progress is always nice
Do you need an extra overcurrent protection, bms and a fuse is not enough?
No more dyno testing?
It will be interesting to see what the new project are, some kind of vehicle?
. I also may have experienced some MOE errors on one run. They seem to occur at the transition of field weakening. Didnt end up on the tow truck so Ill take it as a win.
I couldn't get more than 650ish at 380dc with the 1800 108v and the 620ish with the 96-850 model.Ive also gone direct drive with the same motor but decided I'm going 29s11p molicel pack for Mx events and quicker charging.The last piece of the puzzle just turned up
the 3shul cl1000 vesc.I bought a mint 2021 kxf250 roller to speed up the build.yeal last time i had a smaller rear sprocket, 46 or something, it'll be further back in the thread. I ran my 60t rear this time. I fried the battey when i did that 13.6 and 140kph run. So yeah, with higher gearing its a better drag bike. With the 60t I wasnt any faster short track because I couldnt use full throttle and keep the front down. Seems about 1.9s is the fastest I can go on a standard dirt bike."Did multiple 1.9s 60 foots and best time was a 13.6 @ 140kph"
That is what I found from another time before you modified the battery and tuned it on the dyno.
So it seems you did a little better back then, hmm
Did you turn down the battery amps to help with the wheelies? (I suppose so as you said power)
Wouldnt it work to just turn down the phase A, if it was wheelies in the start?
no idea, i didnt datalog anything. It was a touch last minute and just wanted to have some fun. Settings were identical to my dyno runs for the most part so looking at those will tell you my pha amps.Do you know what phase amps you are reaching off the start