j bjork
100 kW
There is some kind of dimple or hole under the sticker, it might very well be as you say 
Yamaha YZ250F
- Thread starter j bjork
- Start date
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,406
As much we are paying for these controllers, seem it would have a nicer cover.
Although the function is more important. I’m really hoping this controller has good throttle control. Let us know how it goes once you test it out
I’m excited for you 
TorgueRPM
100 W
Throttle control on vescs is very tunable.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,406
That’s great to hear. Im looking forward to using this controller.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,406
j bjork
100 kW
I ordered in late february, then it was on pre order. The pre order ended early march, like 7:th or something. The controller shipped in the end of april and arrived a week later in early may. So about two month from the end of pre order until I had it. I have posted the exact dates in the thread, these are just from memory.
No, I havent even tested it.. The plan was to test on the bench this weekend and mount it on the bike the next. But I have been too busy lately. I have been riding twice a week lately, and it seems to give result. So I dont want to give up on that to free up time either
It was hot today, and it seems like I got the heat up in the tires. It was leaking grease from the tire locks.
No, I havent even tested it.. The plan was to test on the bench this weekend and mount it on the bike the next. But I have been too busy lately. I have been riding twice a week lately, and it seems to give result. So I dont want to give up on that to free up time either
It was hot today, and it seems like I got the heat up in the tires. It was leaking grease from the tire locks.
Good thing you don't have rim brakes. :lol:
j bjork
100 kW
Anybody here that has broken a light bulb inside a headlamp?
I have done that too now:
The ring to the left was still in the socket, the rest I had to shake out.
The grey isnt dirt, it is damage from the bulb jumping around..
This is before I got it out, you can see pieces of the bulb in the bottom.
I have continued on my third battery. There will be some changes with the new controller, the pre charge will move in and be controlled by the "ignition"
The resistor is the big, gold thing on the side of the battery modules.
I could probably have found a smaller one, but this will probably not overheat at least
Then the controller will turn on the contactors with its built in 12v and aux outputs.
The aux can only handle 500mA, and it seems like one contactor takes 5-600mA and I have 2..
So I will use an extra relay just to handle the contactors
This here. It is sure getting crowded in there.
I have done that too now:
The ring to the left was still in the socket, the rest I had to shake out.
The grey isnt dirt, it is damage from the bulb jumping around..
This is before I got it out, you can see pieces of the bulb in the bottom.
I have continued on my third battery. There will be some changes with the new controller, the pre charge will move in and be controlled by the "ignition"
The resistor is the big, gold thing on the side of the battery modules.
I could probably have found a smaller one, but this will probably not overheat at least
Then the controller will turn on the contactors with its built in 12v and aux outputs.
The aux can only handle 500mA, and it seems like one contactor takes 5-600mA and I have 2..
So I will use an extra relay just to handle the contactors
This here. It is sure getting crowded in there.
j bjork
100 kW
Upgrades on the way:
j bjork
100 kW
It has been a hectic one and a half week, no time for updates. It still is, but I wont get much more done this evening anyway.
A small thing in all of this, but I have worn trough the rear frame again
Last time I welded in 3mm alu. This time I will go for another approach.
Welded it with 2mm alu.
Then made a 1,5mm stainless cover, mounted with glue and rivets. Half the thickness would probably be enough, but this is what I had
I would be surprised if I wear trough that..
I still had a problem that I could get water in the transmission oil. I'm thinking it must have to do with the ventilation.
Now when I haven't washed the bike, it sure looks like it has to be some leakage at this fitting.
I have already changed it once, and these usually doesn't leak.
Now I went with another solution with a strait fitting, no o-rings or anything. Then a rubber hose. I hope this will work.
Anyway, chain and sprockets looked fine
It has been a long time since I checked, I more or less expected that I would have to tighten it.
This is getting long, maybe it is time to end this post..
A small thing in all of this, but I have worn trough the rear frame again
Last time I welded in 3mm alu. This time I will go for another approach.
Welded it with 2mm alu.
Then made a 1,5mm stainless cover, mounted with glue and rivets. Half the thickness would probably be enough, but this is what I had
I would be surprised if I wear trough that..
I still had a problem that I could get water in the transmission oil. I'm thinking it must have to do with the ventilation.
Now when I haven't washed the bike, it sure looks like it has to be some leakage at this fitting.
I have already changed it once, and these usually doesn't leak.
Now I went with another solution with a strait fitting, no o-rings or anything. Then a rubber hose. I hope this will work.
Anyway, chain and sprockets looked fine
It has been a long time since I checked, I more or less expected that I would have to tighten it.
This is getting long, maybe it is time to end this post..
j bjork
100 kW
Finally got my suspension stuff back yesterday evening.
The rear shock with an even stiffer spring. There were no stiff enough springs available for this shock, so this is something else that is adapted to work. I had 63N/mm and this was supposed to be 73N/mm but showed 68N/mm on the scale.
It seems like all of my bearings in the linkage and swing are bad
I cant do much about it now, but I will have to change them all I suppose.
Maybe I should try not to pressure wash the bike after almost every ride.
But it would take forever with a hose, brushes and sponge
The rear shock with an even stiffer spring. There were no stiff enough springs available for this shock, so this is something else that is adapted to work. I had 63N/mm and this was supposed to be 73N/mm but showed 68N/mm on the scale.
It seems like all of my bearings in the linkage and swing are bad
I cant do much about it now, but I will have to change them all I suppose.
Maybe I should try not to pressure wash the bike after almost every ride.
But it would take forever with a hose, brushes and sponge
j bjork
100 kW
I had a felling lately that it seems like there are very few that reads my thread. I saw a few days ago that there was 54.133 views, and still when I made the latest update it was the same number. Guess what, it is still 54.133 today. And then I have a like on that post without a single viewer
Anyway the biggest update on the bike was changing controller:
I had to make the bracket both a little longer and wider.
I was able to just move forward and down, so that feels pretty good anyway.
Making a new cover is pretty much work, but I was able to just modify it a bit.
The little ridge actually gives a better grip when lifting the bike
I made a cutout for the cooling fins, I didnt like the look at first.
I think it should be possible to leave the white part intact, maybe even a small ridge of the black if I cut off a lot from the inside.
But I dont think I care about it anymore.
An extra bracket for the sidecover
I dont think I can preview anymore, so I might just as well post before it gets to long
Anyway the biggest update on the bike was changing controller:
I had to make the bracket both a little longer and wider.
I was able to just move forward and down, so that feels pretty good anyway.
Making a new cover is pretty much work, but I was able to just modify it a bit.
The little ridge actually gives a better grip when lifting the bike
I made a cutout for the cooling fins, I didnt like the look at first.
I think it should be possible to leave the white part intact, maybe even a small ridge of the black if I cut off a lot from the inside.
But I dont think I care about it anymore.
An extra bracket for the sidecover
I dont think I can preview anymore, so I might just as well post before it gets to long
What kind is the new controller? Looks plenty big enough.
j bjork
100 kW
The change of controller hasent been trouble free.
Here is a the principle of how my ignition is wired:
It is not really accurate, there is actually a extra relay before the contactor (1 in the picture) that is controlled by the 12v and aux from the hesc like in the picture. The contactor is controlled by 12v from that relay, and ground from the bms. Both to not put too much strain on the aux, and so the bms can cut the power.
Anyway, the problem here was that relay 3 that supply vin on the controller got welded shut. I first had just one relay for both 2 and 3, but thought that the pre charge took to much current when that welded.
Hackey then advised me to use an ntc resistor as an inrush limiter, I found this:
Now it works with the same relay for both pre charge and vin
(I didnt have any more 110v v relays..)
Here is a the principle of how my ignition is wired:
It is not really accurate, there is actually a extra relay before the contactor (1 in the picture) that is controlled by the 12v and aux from the hesc like in the picture. The contactor is controlled by 12v from that relay, and ground from the bms. Both to not put too much strain on the aux, and so the bms can cut the power.
Anyway, the problem here was that relay 3 that supply vin on the controller got welded shut. I first had just one relay for both 2 and 3, but thought that the pre charge took to much current when that welded.
Hackey then advised me to use an ntc resistor as an inrush limiter, I found this:
Now it works with the same relay for both pre charge and vin
(I didnt have any more 110v v relays..)
j bjork
100 kW
j bjork
100 kW
I must give Hackey some credit.
After I stopped sending e-mail and instead sent messages to the phone number the support has been better than than what I think you can expect
I have got answers on evening and weekends. Tuning on Saturday (that was partly his own fault as he canceled Thursday, and I wasnt able to make it on Friday) Reading logs and trying to solve problems on Sunday (today) morning before my ride.
After I stopped sending e-mail and instead sent messages to the phone number the support has been better than than what I think you can expect
I have got answers on evening and weekends. Tuning on Saturday (that was partly his own fault as he canceled Thursday, and I wasnt able to make it on Friday) Reading logs and trying to solve problems on Sunday (today) morning before my ride.
Well I do read every post, so at least you got one follower
Does the controller come with this guard for connections?
Seems like it will get destroyed pretty fast from stone/gravel?
Does the controller come with this guard for connections?
Seems like it will get destroyed pretty fast from stone/gravel?
I had a felling lately that it seems like there are very few that reads my thread. I saw a few days ago that there was 54.133 views, and still when I made the latest update it was the same number. Guess what, it is still 54.133 today. And then I have a like on that post without a single viewer
Anyway the biggest update on the bike was changing controller:
I had to make the bracket both a little longer and wider.
I was able to just move forward and down, so that feels pretty good anyway.
Making a new cover is pretty much work, but I was able to just modify it a bit.
The little ridge actually gives a better grip when lifting the bike
I made a cutout for the cooling fins, I didnt like the look at first.
I think it should be possible to leave the white part intact, maybe even a small ridge of the black if I cut off a lot from the inside.
But I dont think I care about it anymore.
An extra bracket for the sidecover
I dont think I can preview anymore, so I might just as well post before it gets to long
A-DamW
100 W
Yep, I'm here too, I don't have much to add to your skilled abilities, just enjoying your progress.
If you run into something I might be able to help with, I will chime in for sure.
Also, I think the views counter is broken/being worked on:
Xenforo conversion thread
If you run into something I might be able to help with, I will chime in for sure.
Also, I think the views counter is broken/being worked on:
Xenforo conversion thread
j bjork
100 kW
Thanks, so it might be the whole forum that has lost the counter.
Haggan, do you mean the black cover with a yellow high voltage warning sticker?
In that case no, I made that to fit the fardriver.
So far I have finished 2 batteries, one new and modified one of the old ones:
I was able to squeeze in an extra relay, the grey one. That actually only have to control the contactors.
The small orange one in front of it controls both pre charge and vin input.
Here you can also see the pre charge resistor on the right side of the double cell modules (top left in the picture)
A problem when mounting the top is that it is so tight that you cant really say if something gets stuck.
Here you can see where the wiring has been more or less squeezed:
On the last one you can also see where I have ground off a little to give room for the cell modules, but it is still press fit.
I have added cloth tape on these wires too now, for some extra protection.
This picture is from the new battery though.
Back to controller tuning. We have been struggeling to get it to run properly.
I got an explanation from Hackey this evening.
The problem seems to be that as I run hall sensors, vesc switches over to observer at a certain erpm.
If I had ran encoder it would have been accurate enough to stay on and not switch to observer.
That observer determines the position of the motor by reading the back emf from the motor.
But as it is an IPM motor with some salience, 30uH (to compare with 10uH on a qs 138 according to Hackey) it effect the back emf so that the observer dosent work very good.
But there should be a beta version of a newer vesc tool that should hopefully solve the problem.
Haggan, do you mean the black cover with a yellow high voltage warning sticker?
In that case no, I made that to fit the fardriver.
So far I have finished 2 batteries, one new and modified one of the old ones:
I was able to squeeze in an extra relay, the grey one. That actually only have to control the contactors.
The small orange one in front of it controls both pre charge and vin input.
Here you can also see the pre charge resistor on the right side of the double cell modules (top left in the picture)
A problem when mounting the top is that it is so tight that you cant really say if something gets stuck.
Here you can see where the wiring has been more or less squeezed:
On the last one you can also see where I have ground off a little to give room for the cell modules, but it is still press fit.
I have added cloth tape on these wires too now, for some extra protection.
This picture is from the new battery though.
Back to controller tuning. We have been struggeling to get it to run properly.
I got an explanation from Hackey this evening.
The problem seems to be that as I run hall sensors, vesc switches over to observer at a certain erpm.
If I had ran encoder it would have been accurate enough to stay on and not switch to observer.
That observer determines the position of the motor by reading the back emf from the motor.
But as it is an IPM motor with some salience, 30uH (to compare with 10uH on a qs 138 according to Hackey) it effect the back emf so that the observer dosent work very good.
But there should be a beta version of a newer vesc tool that should hopefully solve the problem.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,406
Well that interesting
would like to hear more about this. Hopefully you get it sorted! I’ll be running hall sensors as well with the 3Shul.j bjork
100 kW
We were supposed to sort that yesterday, but I wasnt able get in touch with Hackey.
From what I understand it is a much smaller problem with the qs 138 as it has much less salience
From what I understand it is a much smaller problem with the qs 138 as it has much less salience
speedy1984
100 W
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2018
- Messages
- 248
I have your exact motor with Halls.Mine is running the Cl1000 and can notice it switching modes but does it smoothly.But as my bike is only running on the stand I can't tell you if it's noticeable or not with running.Have you tested on a bike i.e riding it?Btw motor runs noticeable better on Ortega or what ever it's called lol
j bjork
100 kW
I dont know if it is noticable without load, I have tested wile riding. The higher the load the more noticable it is. Hackey asked me to be gentle on low rpm for now, until it switched over to observer. And I am only running 700pA for now.
j bjork
100 kW
Yes, if it is the same on the newer motors? They changed the front and rear covers, so it might not be the same mounting points etc. Hackey had made encoders for some motors too, so he might have something that fits. The problem is that I want to ride now. And it is 2-3 weeks or something to a big competition that I already signed up for, so I am rather short on time for sending stuff halfway across the world.
I know it wasnt the smartest move to change controller in the middle of high season, but I didnt want to have it just lie here for months when I finally got it.
I know it wasnt the smartest move to change controller in the middle of high season, but I didnt want to have it just lie here for months when I finally got it.
