Your Creation's Before & After Pics

Oops, sorry, I was not yelling, too lazy to type in proper sometimes. Yes, you are all correct, and I am changing back to where it was. I currently eying in on FOX Talas 32, beefier, 140mm travel. Current fork to flimsy for this weight. I can imagine fork crashing into battery and then endo. Or regretfully abandon this frame all together, custom battery pack? Open to advise. I posted my original bike photo for now. Thank you all
 
Make a cardboard box mock up matching your battery dimensions, mount it in the desired location and see if there is interference. You may be able to adjust a better fork so there is no interference at max compression.
 
Back to the rack, I located a longer travel Talas fork, more bucks. I will mount battery back to underside of bottom tube. I just put the correct 1x crank on allowing me to Make a decent crash guard from bottom bracket to protect speeed control. I get it now to make a card board outline of battery and mount. I could flip to where speed control and wire harness higher up tube. Still need a decent crash guard regardless. I am beating my self up not even thinking of shake rattle shock battery would go through. I am a retired military/space microelectronics process engineer. I was taken out by MS, and brain function is not up to speed as I would like. That’s reason why I need assistance now to ride now, legs getting weak. I was involved in manufacturing the motor control for the first Mars Rover, lots of shake rattle and roll testing to qualify that controller. Than you again, I am glad i hooked on this site. I need more brains!
 

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New build frame, 575 large, which will fit me fine. I going with a CYC Stealth kit with electrify 52 mini pack. It will fit. Picked up a bomber fork. The guy I bought the frame from can rebuild them. i will order a box 3 1x9, just to get it rolling and save up for a CYC Stealth Kit.
 

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Dear All

Let me introduce my DIY e-bike
I start developted it from last dec '23
And continue trial,fixing the problem
Currently it already stable and I used it to commute to my work
go and back total 40 km
I choose the cheapest komponent and i made the circuit my self due to budget limitation
It is too far from word "beauty"
but as for the functional it pretty enough

Maybe i can show you the detail circuits and component

I used my full sus MTB
so there is a lot of problem during installation
 

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Dear All

Let me introduce my DIY e-bike
I start developted it from last dec '23
And continue trial,fixing the problem
Currently it already stable and I used it to commute to my work
go and back total 40 km
I choose the cheapest komponent and i made the circuit my self due to budget limitation
It is too far from word "beauty"
but as for the functional it pretty enough

Maybe i can show you the detail circuits and component

I used my full sus MTB
so there is a lot of problem during installation
Allow me to continue the component an it cost.
I will only explain the final condition not the cost during the development ...
1. I choose cheap dc motor .. brused with reduction gear it cost 350k IDR
2. Lifepo4 used battery, 4 cell 12v 10AH with bms attached ... cost 500k IDR
3. I used my arduino and potensiometer as speed controller by pwm signal
4. I used potocoupler circuit ... i use small pwm speedcontrol modul ... i remove the mosfet and connect the wire ...
5. Than i use mosfet power transistor attached to heat sink ( i take it from the broken grafik card) plus cooling fan
6. Thats all and i connect them all by wire (i am newbie in soldering and circuit)
7. Also i give on off switch and resettable fuse to protect the circuit
8. Also heat sensor to monitor temperatur of the mosfet and voltage meter to measure battery voltage (to measure output power from the battery)
 
Allow me to continue the component an it cost.
I will only explain the final condition not the cost during the development ...
1. I choose cheap dc motor .. brused with reduction gear it cost 350k IDR
2. Lifepo4 used battery, 4 cell 12v 10AH with bms attached ... cost 500k IDR
3. I used my arduino and potensiometer as speed controller by pwm signal
4. I used potocoupler circuit ... i use small pwm speedcontrol modul ... i remove the mosfet and connect the wire ...
5. Than i use mosfet power transistor attached to heat sink ( i take it from the broken grafik card) plus cooling fan
6. Thats all and i connect them all by wire (i am newbie in soldering and circuit)
7. Also i give on off switch and resettable fuse to protect the circuit
8. Also heat sensor to monitor temperatur of the mosfet and voltage meter to measure battery voltage (to measure output power from the battery)
For the drive train
I put freewheel on the motor axist .. and connect the motor to the smallest gear on the pedal gear ... by chain

When motor stop i still can freely use the pedal
And when the motor run ... my leg should do pedaling ... it means motor work as pedal assist
 
For the drive train
I put freewheel on the motor axist .. and connect the motor to the smallest gear on the pedal gear ... by chain

When motor stop i still can freely use the pedal
And when the motor run ... my leg should do pedaling ... it means motor work as pedal assist
At the result that 10ah battery can support pedaling energy by only around 40% ... and can be used for one trip .. and i should charge the battery on my company ..

It is better than not use e bike
I Still got tired , sweat ...
But it easier compared with without dc motor
 
At the result that 10ah battery can support pedaling energy by only around 40% ... and can be used for one trip .. and i should charge the battery on my company ..

It is better than not use e bike
I Still got tired , sweat ...
But it easier compared with without dc motor
When i got the budget
Maybe i will improve the battery
Mounting of all electronic, battery and dc motor
Maybe next year
 
I converted an old 2006 Dahon Helios folding bike I bought for £100 from a friend many years ago, which I'd ridden a couple of times and promptly chucked into the loft until the pandemic hit... whenupon I installed a "250W" (720W and UK legal - the law doesn't limit amperage) Bafang BBS01B kit. I didn't snap a pic before conversion, but here it is. The Oxford lollipop on the handlebar is usually more horizontal, or angled higher up to be better noticed and actively avoided by drivers of large vehicles such as buses, lorries, SUVs etc. You can ignore the long thrilling boring bit after the telepathically diverted cat:




Drivers kept doing stuff like this...





...so I assembled and installed this, and nothing like that has happened during the years since:


sidertaor1.6.jpg





The downside is of course, it falls upon the rest of you to upload horror movies, because my supply has gone dry and I do enjoy watching horror movies.


MAKE-CYCLING-GREAT-AGAIN.jpg
 
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That sure was a crazy scary moment. There's always a few of those out there driving those machines.
As far as a video, mine live in memory, as I don't video record my rides. Someday that old meat computer won't work so well, unless I get splattered first like you almost were.
Nice beats in your first clip.
 
That sure was a crazy scary moment.
I would have been toast if that nutcase had collided with that lorry head on.

As far as a video, mine live in memory, as I don't video record my rides. Someday that old meat computer won't work so well, unless I get splattered first like you almost were.
The hope is, a video flight recorder will clear up all that he said she said nonsense post-accident, if I survive to sue drivers for damages. That video was shot on a very cheap Crosstour Action 4K I bought for about £30, and affixed to the jawguard of my helmet - it has since been replaced by a GoPro Hero 7 Black, which has a lens wide enough to record the speedo, as well as road horror. With manual settings, it shoots better night video than the Crosstour did: records vehicle number plates clearly when too close, with very little motion blur. Thankfully the handlebar Oxford lollipop's orange forcefield has stopped all fast close passing by vehicles occurring.

Nice beats in your first clip.
Thank you! It's a very old one I made using a whole bunch of connected fake software Korg MS-20s. For good or ill, everyone's gotta have a hobby.


 
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I already posted here with this, albeit, in progress project. Fitting a battery to XTC took a bit of figuring. The electrics from the Novara were installed on the Specialized XTC, so my out of pocket cost was $50 for the XTC bike (I had already bought all the electrics and other stuff, so I'm not counting that.)
PXL_20240615_034905558.jpg
PXL_20240720_043216038.jpg

The good, bad, and the ugly:

PXL_20240720_042720745.jpg

These donor bikes are about 20 years-old. In there time the first bike was selling for a bit under a thousand, the second for over two thousand. My initial assessment is that less expensive spring suspension bike makes a better ebike conversion for an all around ebike than the high-test air suspension bike. I'll need to fine tune the suspension air pressures, but this new iteration seems to be one fast ebike compared to its predecessor. That difference might be due to the NRS rear suspension?
 
Cool.. where are your torque arms though? wouldn't want to destroy a bike like that!
 
Cool.. where are your torque arms though? wouldn't want to destroy a bike like that!
I bought the motor from Grin, and the torque arm is integrated with the motor's axle. You can see it in the last picture blacking out a piece of the lower brake rotor. That piece of aluminium is part of something I fabricated to tie the torque arm to the bike's frame.
 
You did such a good job i didn't see it!
 
It's now been 9 years since I converted a Trek 800 from 1990.

Trek_800.jpg IMG_6017.JPG
I used an ebikeling 500W 36V rear motor and an elifebike 36V Dolphin battery, Original cost was $480 in 2015.

It's one of my heavier conversions. The original steel frame Trek was 29-30 pounds. I added a cheapo RST Capa 1" suspension fork to bring the weight up around 50-52 lbs. The original 810LED 3 speed PAS wasn't very flexible for low speed riding,.

This year, I picked up a 48V Dolphin pack from Battery Hookup for $85. With 48V, the 3 speed PAS was even less flexible. I switched to a 25A KT controller with a small color KT display. The best mod though was switching from the 34 year old hard mountain bike saddle to a wider cruiser style seat. Did that a few weeks ago What a difference. Makes for a really smooth ride. Other changes included going from an exposed controller to one inside a plastic box.

Never had a flat tire, so have never had either wheel off this bike. The original 36V10Ah battery still works fine. I was waiting for the cells to die so I could re-cell it with new Samsung cells. While I have approached 60 mile range in the past, the old pack still can do 40+ miles, so there was no need to re-cell. Nonetheless, I couldn't resist buying those $85 packs from Battery Hookup, so I am using one in my bike.
 
Hcf pacelite 707 chassis 350 watt brushless hub motor 350 watt brushless controller
 

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Thanks.
It will do 35mph on the throttle, on the level fully charged. Peadling, maybe 28 mph. Range up to 50 miles, on low assist.
 
Hcf pacelite 707 chassis 350 watt brushless hub motor 350 watt brushless controller
These are great scooters. I have kept mine stock but just upgraded the batteries. to lithium. well built - durable frames and suspension belt drive. Unfortunately, there aren't many around.
 
Built my first hub motor wheel this last weekend. Actually it's my first wheel build, and I was a bit worried of how it would come together. But thanks to Grin's spoke calculator, and Robert's video I think I have built a good motor wheel.

PXL_20241007_184926322.jpg

The motor is rated as a 36v 500w direct drive, and cost me $79. I'll probably run it at 48v. Spokes and rim were $105. So, it's a $184 wheel, which isn't too bad. Though I didn't add in the $30 in shipping.
I'll post an after picture when I have one. Everything else, outside of a controller and display, are free parts. So, I might be able to assemble pretty good ebike for less than a DTC ebike.
 
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