@ FMB: Yes , the increase in unsprung mass at the end where you you put the motor is the largest problem with hub motors IMO. But the Rider to bike weight ratio on the other hand , can be both a problem or an advantage. You can to a large degree change the suspension response after the terrain. Like moving back on the saddle when hitting a bump at high speed , to to counteract the weight of the hub accelrating upwards (if your motor is at the rear , that is) . On the other hand , If this happens in a fast turn , where you need all the traction the front wheel kan get ,it's another thing. You can still find the correct balance point wher none of the wheels loses traction , or both skips by the same amount , but the margins are much smaller.
Marzocchi MX air or coil? do you know wich year it's from? generally , if it has a air valve on top of one leg , its a air spring , if it got valves on both , or on none , its a coil spring . the air on those is for spring preload / sag adjustment. This is most likely a ssv damper. it has an internal rebound adjuster , and you can tune the compression with different oil weight. the bottom out is adjusted with how much oil you fill it with. oil on the MIN mark= linear stroke , no bottom out damping. Oil at the MAX mark= progressive , heavy bottom out damping. Find out what year it is and I'll find the manual on pdf.
Wow! what year is that? Is it a Float RP or RP2 ? That must be the oldest float shock I've seen. I.ll need to check my books for that one , but The newer floats have a nitrogen filled core , wich is hard to service yourself. The thing you can and should do yourself is a air sleeve service.You should have a "Fox float air seal kit" in case something needs replacing.
First thing TAKE ALL AIR OUT OF THE SHOCK!!
You basically put the end of the shock , wich now points forward on the bike , in a soft jaw wise , with the frame bushings still in the shock. The bushings in the other end you'll have to remove. Put a rag trough the hole where the bushings were. This is to stop the air can (the black part)from flying off the shock , if there's air trapped in the negative chamber.
now , you can unscrew the aircan from the shock, turning it counter clockvise , when looking at the wise with the shock toward you. It can be pretty tight , but you should be able to unscrew it with your hands. Now , it might come off with a bang when you reach the end of the threads , most of the times it gently slides off. Now remove the rag , and clean the air sleeve and the piston assembly. Inspect the seals you can see. There's a lot of seals , so look carefully.
When everything looks OK , it's time to put it back together again.first lube all seals with fox float fluid (basically a overpriced 75w manual transmission oil).
Slide the air chamber carefully back on the shock , taking kare not to dirupt the seal in the bottom of the air chamber. push it on util the piston allmost goes in to the air chamber. put one or two ml with gear oil under the piston, push the air chamber over the piston , and add 5ml of gear oil on top of the piston. it takes a bit of effort to reach the threads ,but when you do , you are finished. Now: NEVER USE GEAR OIL IN FORKS OR SHOCK DAMPER INTERNALS!! ONLY IN AIR SPRING CHAMBERS! Dampers need proper motorcycle fork oil.
You have rebound damping , thats the small red wheel right in front of the swing-arm bushings. The blue lever is the "pro pedal" a kind of compression adjuster.
I'll add some stuff about adjusting them later tonight.
@ geetarboy. The tora is a strong fork , wit cro-mo upper legs , and magnesium lowers. if your old fork had 60mm susp , I would'nt use all 130mm on the Tora , Your head tube might not take the stress. 100 should be ok but dont take my word for it. The Tora can be had with two different dampers , the 318 has a cartridge called "Motion Control" wish works suprisingly well for a budget fork. The cheaper ones (lower numbers) have a "turnkey" cartridge , wich works OK , but the adjustments don't do much. The 302 could have both. Tip: the tora , recon and reba forks are basically the same design , but different materials and internals. Lots of interchangeable parts.