Liquid Tape or Plastic Dip instead of Heat Shrink?

Kingfish

Kingfish

100 MW
Joined
Feb 3, 2010
Messages
4,064
Location
Redmond, WA-USA, Earth, Sol, Orion–Cygnus Arm, Mil
Don’t get me wrong – I like heat shrink! However if I’m joining more than 2 wires together it becomes more of a challenge, especially if the join is in-line. I was thinking of alternatives like a tool dip with good dielectric properties. Then I stumbled upon this stuff:

displayImage.php

Liquid Tape
Seems convenient, less messy than old electrical tape. Comes in Red & Black. For 8-10 AWG wire Battery Cabling, what should I worry about?

Many thanks, KF
 
I have never used those brands but have used two other brands that have been around a long time 'Liquid Electic Tape' and the original from decades ago: 'Liquid Lectric Tape'. These can be had at Home Depot or Marine supply stores. Both are very good sealers, particularly where you have a wire bundle (like going into a controller) and you want to goop around and between all the leads. The stuff can be peeled off without too much difficulty when dry, making it fine to slather over JST connectors.

I have used both in marine applications as a sealer under heatshrink (gooped the wires and applied the heatshring while wet). After cutting the splices open years later, I found the connections to be in excellent condition in a salt water environment.

However, they do not seem to have the toughness and abrasion resistance of heatshrink, so in general I would say they are not a substitute, but they have very good waterproofing value in their own right. Another good tool for the proper situations.
 
I like the pressure sensitive tape that I found the other day. Doesn't stick to anything, but layer it over itself with some pressure and it seems to create a bond somehow.

Here's a 3M version of what I got, but I bought small 2 ft rolls at the 99cent store from a different brand:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/?N=4294599177+5433135&loc=en_US&plmlblid=1273696351712&rt=c3&sorttype=list
 
Yep - self amalgamating tape, or coax tape is useful stuff, fixed a radiator hose with it once!
 
cwah said:
I just use electric tape.
Click to expand...


The other stuff that I recommended makes a waterproof bond if you do it right. I wouldn't be as confident in electric tape as wonderful as it is.
 
I ended up snagging Dorman's Liquid Tape from my local auto supply in both Black and Red.

85297-007.JPG


Dorman liquid electrical tape offers brush-on insulation for strong electrical connections. This liquid tape prevents corrosion and seals and protects against moisture. Dorman liquid electrical tape is great for sealing connections and repairing damaged wire insulation.
Click to expand...

The description came from Summit Racing.

Haven't used it yet, but I'll report back when I do :wink:

~KF
 
I've tried the plastic dip but prefer self amalgamating tape- it's tougher, simple to apply, and can be removed easily without leaving any bits behind. I'd expect the dips going to cure / thicken over time so may end up with a big unusable lump after some time.
 
what if u need to untwist and make changes later? btw it seems best technique would be tape + dip for 100% seal & strength (if u need it) that tape's pretty amazing but pricy ~$10 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdg_izrJK08
 
thedarlington said:
what if u need to untwist and make changes later? btw it seems best technique would be tape + dip for 100% seal & strength (if u need it) that tape's pretty amazing but pricy ~$10 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdg_izrJK08
Click to expand...

I've not found the tape needs help from the dip. It joins up (amalgamates) into one big lump, seals, and is tough too. But if that's what you want.......

Price is no worse than the dip, lots of ebay sellers, big rolls available, doesn't go off. You can even get yellow, blue, red as well as the black that's everywhere.
Some sellers use different names to self amalgamating- fusing and self sealing were a couple of those I've seen. And silweld is one of the brand names- there are others.
 
I will try the self sealing tape Looks great!!. I used a canadian tire liquid electrical tape. Be careful with using it on hall connectors, the vinyl tends to seal them up , and u cant get them open . the ones lyen uses,
 
I don't know, there is something cool about taking a little torch and shrink wrapping your carefully soldered connections. Plus if you decide to start smoking crack you have a way to light it. :D
 
Actually, I got around to trying it earlier today. But I was going to wait for the finished project before taking pictures. One coat so far, but needs another and warm dry air. Today was more humid and threatening to rain. Wait – what am I talking about? It always rains here! I meant to say that today was dryer with spittle rain instead of chucking it down. And that slowed my progress. But tomorrow – if it rains less (or by some miracle not at all) I shall be able to complete the second coat and report properly, and with pictures. :D

Like a duck to water, KF
 
After hearing your experience with it "drying", I'm going back to the 99 cents only store and getting a few more rolls of the amalgamating tape
 
subscribed
I'm thinking of insulating the lower alloy blocks of agniusm's A123 kit with the liquid stuff since the areas between the cells is awkward to tape.
otherDoc
 
Ypedal said:
Got a heat gun ? ( hair blower on roids ) ... dry in a minute. ready for 2nd coat !
Click to expand...
EDIT: Grabbed the wrong ypedal quote.
Too funny, though inspired! :wink:

Got a chance to use the Liquid Tape last weekend. Like an idiot, I forgot one length of heat shrink to cover up the cabling, so I used instead the liquid tape.

P1-1207.RH01.jpg

Lower-right: Hall-Effect wires individually soldered with heat shrink, although I fogot a length to cover the exposed cable-join.

It is really thick gelatinous stuff – but then I guess it has to be clingy/not drippy so it can go its’ job. I dab away. Smelly stuff; do this outdoors! Check back in 10-15 minutes before applying another coat (or use the heat gun :twisted: ). As it dries, it becomes quite thin and tape-like. The directions say to use 2 coats minimum, and I can believe it; really shrinks down in size.

I had recently varnished the surface of a stator and I used the liquid tape to seal up the hole where the phase and HE wires exit the axle at the stator-side. The liquid tape partly melts varnish, probably from the fast-acting volatile Toluene. Wasn't a problem after another coat.

P1-1207.FH02.jpg


It took several coats. When dried, if feels a little waxy like Polyethylene, but is actually quite durable. The Liquid Tape is really best for coating statically affixed connections; do not use it on wire that flexes otherwise it will crack. There is no information on the temperature range - and I hope it doesn't become a point of ignition.

Now I'm waiting on the EC4 connectors from HK before proceeding with the next application: The battery harness.

ADDENDUM: Related thread on Rust & Restoration

Cheers, KF
 
Kingfish said:
The liquid tape partly melts varnish, probably from the fast-acting volatile Toluene.
Click to expand...
That's actually a good thing, becuase it means the two are fully bonded together, and shouldn't allow leakage between the dissimilar layers, right?
 
amberwolf said:
Kingfish said:
The liquid tape partly melts varnish, probably from the fast-acting volatile Toluene.
Click to expand...
That's actually a good thing, becuase it means the two are fully bonded together, and shouldn't allow leakage between the dissimilar layers, right?
Click to expand...
Probably; the varnish was a little thick in that area and although it had been two days curing - it was still tacky in some spots. I wasn't worried after the second coat. :)

When the Liquid Tape is fully cured, like after 2 or 3 days, it is very tough stuff and partly pliable.
Best, KF
 
dude how much did that cost you? should of just used some 3m undercoating cans, i buy mine for $5 each for the swamp cooler, i think u went overboard using those little jars for a whole hub but atleast it should really get especially if its partly eating away some palstics
 
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