Bubba's Build 4

It's a start. The body of the motor and the shaft are roughly an inch longer then the old style motor.

Bubba

Wye are you building a new drive? :wink:

More details please, host bike, controller, batteries, belts, gears, etc....

etard said:

Wye are you building a new drive? :wink:

More details please, host bike, controller, batteries, belts, gears, etc....

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Don't have details yet. All I know is that I want more then a single speed. I love the shingle speed, but when I am ridding with my buddies and not using the motor, I spin out on the flats. Three speed would be about right for keeping up with my buddies and getting back if I have electrical problems. I have a two road bikes, two mountain bikes, a recumbent tandem, and an upright tandem to choose from for this build. My wife is wanting me to do a tandem.

Bubba

I have decided to make my upright tandem the next build. To that end I bought a set of 36 hole 29" mountain bike wheels that have disk brake mounts. It cost $99 for the wheel set. I would have preferred a 40 hole hub, but hope that the 36 hole mountain bike hub will stand up to tandem use. The rims are deep, so they are probably stronger then the rims currently on the bike.

The motor will be rack mounted similar to my Build 3. The brakes are in the way for mounting the front of the rack, so I may have to go for a seat post mount. There will be some refinements to the rack to make it lighter. I may go back to a box design for the motor and jack shaft mount. This is to prevent the mounting system from twisting when you hit the throttle. There is a little bit of twist in my Build 3 design and I think that this will be exasperated if used on a tandem.

Bubba

dontsendbubbamail said:

It's a start. The body of the motor and the shaft are roughly an inch longer then the old style motor.

Bubba

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Looks like ill need me two of these rather than one to add to the old style i have now, the odd lengths of the two would be an issue for me.
I gather you will be disassembling this too Bubba? would be keen to see some detailed pics of the larger bearing. Still to pull mine down but i am keen to see if adding a larger OD bearing is a possibility if the end plate is machined accordingly.

Look forward to your project as always...

Best of luck

KiM

I haven't take the 80-100 apart yet, but I believe that it is just a longer version of my dead 80-85. Let me know if you need some more pictures. The large bearing is a 6809Z.

Bubba

The 80-100 is the one im keen to see that is the upgraded version of the motor i currently have. I would be keen to see (as im sure you are also) if the magnet gluing issue has also been addressed ...I need to order me some of them pliers to get the lil spring thing off without it flying across the room so i can take mine apart.

KiM

I will post some pictures when I take my new style 80-100 apart, but I believe that the new style 80-85 and the 80-100 are constructed the same. The new style 80-85 does have more glue between the magnets then the old style 80-100. I am not convinced that more glue between the magnets means better adhesion to the bell. You get a little more surface area by having the glue touch the side of the magnets, but this doesn't seem significant to me. In both the old style and new style you can see where the glue has slumped to one side when the bell was set down after gluing .

My experience is that it is very easy to over heat the motor if you are not monitoring temp. This is especially true with smaller motors. My style of ridding is electric assist for going up hills, so I seldom see temp above 130 deg F. You will be using the motor continuously, so my thoughts are that 160 deg F to 180 deg F would be the max temp you would want to see. I am in the process of modifying a $5 meat thermometer to replace my eagle tree for the temp monitoring. I will post pictures when I am finished. My other advice is don't ever lug the motor when going up a hill if you are using an RC controller. It only takes seconds for it to overheat and blow. I have killed two RC controller by lugging them. The jury is still out, but I am really liking the 18 fet ebike controller over a RC controller so far.

In the first picture you can see where the glue has slumped down towards the end of the bell. The other picture is front/open end of the bell.

Bubba

dontsendbubbamail said:

My other advice is don't ever lug the motor when going up a hill if you are using an RC controller. It only takes seconds for it to overheat and blow.

Bubba

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Thankfully i have Mr Fechters black box of magic tricks to 'protect' the ESC. :: fingers crossed::
things will stak magic smoke free

KiM

I did a test cut in foam of my disk brake to chain wheel adapter. It needs to go towards the wheel a bit more in order to get enough chain stay clearance. The area where the adapter bolts on is 5/16" thick and I want to move the chain wheel 1/8" or more. This means that I will have to make it from two pieces because I only have 3/8" aluminum in hand.

Bubba

Hey Bubba,

I have a disc brake to 130bcd adaptor I can donate. The normal adaptor I sell has 1/2 inch offset to the right. But, one test adaptor I have here is (I think) 3/8 offset. It is CNC machined aluminum anodized black. I will ship it to you if you would like.

Matt

It looks like you're planning on rewinding your 80-85 motor (It appears you've removed the coils and there's markings that seem to indicate a winding plan). Are you planning on releasing the front of the motor that's epoxied to the stator to make winding it a bit easier? If so, how were you planning on doing that?

recumpence said:

Hey Bubba,

I have a disc brake to 130bcd adaptor I can donate. The normal adaptor I sell has 1/2 inch offset to the right. But, one test adaptor I have here is (I think) 3/8 offset. It is CNC machined aluminum anodized black. I will ship it to you if you would like.

Matt

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Thanks for the generous offer and I will contact you if I need it. I want to first try milling one myself. Making aluminum dust is fun.

Bubba

dontsendbubbamail said:

recumpence said:

Hey Bubba,

I have a disc brake to 130bcd adaptor I can donate. The normal adaptor I sell has 1/2 inch offset to the right. But, one test adaptor I have here is (I think) 3/8 offset. It is CNC machined aluminum anodized black. I will ship it to you if you would like.

Matt

Click to expand...

Making aluminum dust is fun.

Bubba

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You mean "Making an oily mess and ending up with multiple invisible splinters" is fun.

Matt

I finished the sprocket to disk brake adapter. Making it in two pieces allows me to fine tune the chain wheel placement. As it sits, the chain wheel is offset 1/4" to the inside. If I need more offset, I can machine another mounting plate that will give me more offset without having to machine another spider.

Bubba

1/4 inch should be enough. 1/2 inch is perfect.

It looks very nice.

Matt

Buba, If i may ask, what are your plans for that striped outrunner?
I have a proposal for you.

I need some motors to test as "controlls" for the Axial motor to compair against.
you seem to have a dysfunctional motor.
If your motor is for sale I am interested.

Or I could rewind it & send it back to you for your future projects.

I am constructing an eddy brake dynomometer to graph motor performance (totaly by accident mind you) & would love to have a motor that size for comparisons & add to the data base.

Maybe rewind it a few times if I have the nerve to destroy a perfectly working motor once re-wound.
I have been longing to try some LRK configurations also/& see if there are any measuarable differances.

I will return you a fully rebuilt motor once the testing has finished with a hearty Thanks.
I understand if its a project you are looking to do yourself some time so no presure at all.
Thanks Todd

PM me an address. It would be great to get it back some day rewound in a wye configuration. Keep it as long as you need it. If it gets destroyed during testing, no big deal.

Bubba

I did a test on a spare 54 tooth pulley to see if I could mill out one for a freewheel with my home brew cnc machine. Didn't want to ruin the 70 tooth pulley that I will be using for this build. This was the first time I had to find the position of the material being milled. Of course I could not find the wigglers that I had bought just for this purpose. All my other milling was done from plate, so all I had to do was zero the bit in a location that would not run off the material while cutting. I needed three known points on the circumference of the pulley hub so I could calculate where the center of the pulley was. Ended up just eyeballing it and jogging the bit over until I could not see light between the pulley hub and the bit. This seems to have worked out ok. The real test will be when I put it on my build 3 bike. If there is wobble, it might be hard to tell if it is coming from the cheep freewheel or the pulley.

Bubba

Bubba,

Where did you get that freewheel from? I'm looking for a source besides the two I know of for a freewheel without the sprocket on it.

Thanks!

Hey deguinox, you can get those from electricscooterparts.com.

Eugene rules!

The freewheel came from Tncscooters.com and cost a whole $7USD. Quality is about a low as it gets. This is not an item that will handle high power and hard accelerations.

Bubba

mud2005 said:

Hey deguinox, you can get those from electricscooterparts.com. Eugene rules!

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Oh cool! My build uses a lot of stuff (that I actually got off ebay for cheaper) that you can find there but I never saw the freewheels. I'll have to rumage through and see if I can find one that will mate up (or could be modified to) with my freewheel crank. Eugene is pretty fun...and fortunately fairly friendly to ebikes. I can't go past 20 mph and be legal but what the hell...it gets me where I want to go You're from 'round heya too? We should meet up sometime ...I'd love to see that build you're working on up close

dontsendbubbamail said:

The freewheel came from Tncscooters.com and cost a whole $7USD. Quality is about a low as it gets. This is not an item that will handle high power and hard accelerations.

Bubba

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Thanks bubba...the quality on mine isn't very good either but my setup isn't very powerful. A 900w brushed motor that acts more like a 400w motor...I can't get past 22 mph on a flat with it.

Holiday progress. The main body is 1/8" al on the outside and two 1/2" plywood sections in the middle. Bearing blocks are 3/8" al and will use 1/4" bolts to attach them to the body. The freewheel has been machined into the 70 tooth pulley.

Bubba

Looks awesome!

Plywood makes a fantastic filler for such applications. I have carbon fiber/plywood lamination panels in stock for RC helicopter main keels.

Wood is still a fantastic material to work with, expecially if it is skinned with stronger (stiffer and more crush resistant) material.

Matt