First post, thought it might be helpful to someone. I have a new ( 150 km) BBS01, and whilst tidying up the installation , which was pretty easy on an old Trek 6000 MTB by the way, i decide to re-tighten the screw on connector on the speed sensor, just to make sure. Big mistake, it stopped working. In fact when I undid the screw connector and pulled out the cable the other half of the plug came out with it, all the soldered connections to the plug had come off. Not easy to get a new one here so i decide to take it apart.
There is a little hatch at the end with the red led, i took this off with the help, of an exacto knife, underneath a small circuit board.
This is glued in, and the little wires from the pcb are also encased in glue. I heated it up with a hot air gun and it would appear the glue is either hot glue or something else that softens when heated. I prised the pcb uo carefully by inserting a prope in the plug end and easing updwards (down the sides no in the lmiddle as the hall sensor is a small black rectangle that sits in the middle underneath and protrudes into the hollow that faces the magnet. As all the wires were off the plug i was able to pull the pcb up and out through the hatch, and with reheating the glue carefully pick it all off and free the wires, having first noted their position relative to the plug ( i wasn't sure but got it right and will attach a photo showing which of the three wires go where).
I resoldered the three wires to the plug, and having carefully picjed the old glue out of the casing was able to thread the PCB back through the plug end with the wires attached, push the plug back into the housing - not too far or the wires will again butt up against the pcb again and break, this is a design weakness, and break, glue back the pcb and the hatch and job done. I smeared some silicon sealant around the joins to make it waterproof. I did of course test it before gluing anything !
I bet a lot of failures are dues to this, as otherwise there is not a lot to go wrong, and the design is weak as the pcb is a bit too long, or the housing a bit too short, if the plug is pushed in all the way they touch and put the tiny wire connections in jeopardy.
Hope it helps,
Rod[youtube][/youtube]
There is a little hatch at the end with the red led, i took this off with the help, of an exacto knife, underneath a small circuit board.
This is glued in, and the little wires from the pcb are also encased in glue. I heated it up with a hot air gun and it would appear the glue is either hot glue or something else that softens when heated. I prised the pcb uo carefully by inserting a prope in the plug end and easing updwards (down the sides no in the lmiddle as the hall sensor is a small black rectangle that sits in the middle underneath and protrudes into the hollow that faces the magnet. As all the wires were off the plug i was able to pull the pcb up and out through the hatch, and with reheating the glue carefully pick it all off and free the wires, having first noted their position relative to the plug ( i wasn't sure but got it right and will attach a photo showing which of the three wires go where).
I resoldered the three wires to the plug, and having carefully picjed the old glue out of the casing was able to thread the PCB back through the plug end with the wires attached, push the plug back into the housing - not too far or the wires will again butt up against the pcb again and break, this is a design weakness, and break, glue back the pcb and the hatch and job done. I smeared some silicon sealant around the joins to make it waterproof. I did of course test it before gluing anything !
I bet a lot of failures are dues to this, as otherwise there is not a lot to go wrong, and the design is weak as the pcb is a bit too long, or the housing a bit too short, if the plug is pushed in all the way they touch and put the tiny wire connections in jeopardy.
Hope it helps,
Rod[youtube][/youtube]
